Honda Odyssey Rear Window Motor Repair





Introduction: Honda Odyssey Rear Window Motor Repair

Honda Odysseys are notorious for having problems with the rear window motors. Fortunately they are fairly easy to repair. The problem is not the motor itself, but the connector to the motor. In this instructable I will show step by step how to remove and repair the passenger side rear window motor of a 2002 Odyssey.

Note: Thanks to member "itworks" at forums for information about the connector problem.

Step 1:

The window motor is behind this panel. To remove it you must remove the weather stripping that seals against the window. You also must loosen the lower panel. There is a hook that is attached with a screw. Use a thin blade as shown to pop the cover so you can unscrew the screw. The panel and the lower panel are snapped into place with panel clips.

Step 2:

The motor is behind the black duct work. The duct work is held in place by a couple of expanding clips. These may be removed by first removing the plastic screw in the center. The clips may then be pulled out. It isn't necessary to completely remove the duct, but it can be fairly difficult just to get it clear of the motor.

Step 3:

Unplug the connector for the wiring harness. There is a small tab that must be depressed to release the plug (see the picture with my thumbnail pressing the tab).

Step 4:

Removing the motor at this point is straight forward. Be careful not to drop the bolts. It won't be fun to retreive them from behind the lower panel. The lever on the motor shaft will pop out of the fixture on the window if you twist it a bit.

Step 5:

Remove the motor from the bracket. From here on we will be working with just the motor assembly.

Step 6:

Remove the cover from the motor assembly to expose the motor. Take note of the position of the motor. In this photo you can see the seam of the foam covering on the motor. This is important when it comes to re-assembly. If you get this backwards the motor switch will work in reverse. (Guess how I know.)

Step 7:

Remove the connector from the motor. Inside the connector there are two metal tabs. Remove the tab that runs across the center of the connector. I found that grasping the tab on the opposite side of the connector with a pair of long nose pliers and pushing worked well.

Step 8:

The tab is made in two pieces with a mysterous black substance in between the two pieces. This is the culprit. Connecting an ohm meter on each leg of the tab results in an initial reading of 0 ohms which quickly rises to 20 ohms. My guess is that the increasing resistance is intended as a mechanism to protect the circuit when the motor stalls. In practice it reduces the current to the point where the motors cannot function.

My initial fix for this was to simply wrap some bare copper wire around the connector to reduce the resistance. But, not wanting to completely over-ride the safety function, I decided to see if I could make the black layer thinner to reduce the resistance. I found that by heating the tab while squeezing it in the center, the black substance would soften and sqeeze out of the gap. This resulted in a maximum resistance of about 0.5 ohm. It is necessary to trim the excess material before re-assembling the connector.

Re-assembling the motor etc, is the reverse of disassembly.

Put it all back together and enjoy the whir-whir of you newly functional rear windows.



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Good post, good pictures. fixed in short order. thanks you.

Thanks to the guy that posted this! I fixed my 03 Odyssey Honda today.


I'm happy to say I fix my rear window vent on my 2003 Odyssey with zero cost to me. I'm not a mechanic, 69 year old retired but I love to fix my own cars. I followed

the step by step instructions on this website, several times I went back and forth between the internet and my driveway where I'm doing the repair. I squeezed with a

vise grip the tab where the black stuff is sandwhich between the two metals. Then, I heated it with a blow torch probably 1 second or watch the black stuff oozes

out about half of it , then let it cool then slice it off with a sharp knife. I used the ohm\meter the; resistance its 3 ohms.

I 'd like to share this with everyone with the same problem. Don't rush buying the

motor unit (almost $100) try this first. All you need is a little patient and a little

bit of analyzing things.

Thank you very much to whoever posted this step by step

instructions (steps 1-8).

Saw this after repairing/modifying my drink tray and decided to give it a try. It worked perfectly. Saved over $100 in "new" motors for my windows. Now onto another project.

mark the motor and the little case so they line up the right way when you put them back together. You don't have to take off the arm but you have to loosen it and slide it down a little so that you have the slack to take the motor with the worm screw out. when you are heating the connection don't heat it too much and hold the two metal parts together while you heat it. if you don't one part might fall off but don't worry you can put them back together, hold them in place and heat it up again. I fixed both of my motors but gave up putting the interior panels back and took my car to my local auto body shop to put back together. (My wife has given them lots of business.) I saved at least $150.

Where can I find a part number for the bolt that goes through the wing window to attach it to the moving mounting plate. Mine is LOST. (2000 Odyssey)

Entering 2016 with two working side windows-thanks for the instructions!!

Awesome instructable! Worked perfectly on my 03 Odyssey!


just bought an used odyssey with this problem... fixed thanks to you!

thank you so much, should put a donnate button.

ps : i had an air pipe on passenger side on my EX model - access a bit more difficult


sadly, when I put them back in the van, they did not work.

2 replies

Check your fuses.


For whatever reason, I tried it again this morning and now it worked. I did the mod to the driver side, in about 20 minutes start to finish and it worked! Thanks again!


Awesome! Just saved 100 bucks on new motors. Works as described, just push the contact out through the other side of the connector. I used a small butane benzomatic torch to heat the sandwiched area, and after a couple of seconds the black material sqished out from light pressure from the needle-nose pliers, I repeated on both ends of the sandwich to get a uniform thickness and that was it. Scraped up the excess and retested the ohms. I have to note that the native resistance of the metal was 0.5ohms and across the whole contact it was 18.1. Once finished it was 1.3ohms, so I left a bit more material but what a sweet sound when that motor fired right up. Thanks a bunch for putting this mod up. i loves the internets.

It worked like a charm. Thanks a ton for put the time and brain power into figuring this out and then for posting the instructions.

worked great thanks!

Totally worked. Thanks!

Hey nice guide. Followed it exactly and everything works now. Thank you for taking the time to help everyone else with this issue.

actually paid $40 for a pair of vent motors removed from a salvage yard. Replaced drivers side with no success. Upon further research I googled problem and found this post and true to the word the problem was all in the connector? I pulled the connector apart as advertised and did just as the instruction said and true to the instruction, i now have two perfectly running vent windows. Thanks for this instruction!

I found a trick to moving the duct work rearward. Look carefully at the place where the duct attached to the blower housing, Note that the duct includes a sleeve where it attaches; the sleeve is inside the duct.. You can carefully push this sleeve up into the duct allowing the duct to clear the attaching lip, allowing one to move the duct rearward, allowing one to remove the motor.

I dunno what the goo is, but you can fix this by wiring in a light bulb across the two terminals. This apparently acts as a thermistor, which is what the original goo is supposed to do; as you surmise it is an overload protection. ...Or so says the author of another document i found on a different site for people who like to fix things.