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Honda Odysseys are notorious for having problems with the rear window motors. Fortunately they are fairly easy to repair. The problem is not the motor itself, but the connector to the motor. In this instructable I will show step by step how to remove and repair the passenger side rear window motor of a 2002 Odyssey.

Note: Thanks to member "itworks" at http://www.odyclub.com forums for information about the connector problem.

Step 1:

The window motor is behind this panel. To remove it you must remove the weather stripping that seals against the window. You also must loosen the lower panel. There is a hook that is attached with a screw. Use a thin blade as shown to pop the cover so you can unscrew the screw. The panel and the lower panel are snapped into place with panel clips.

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<p>Thanks!!! My 2001 Odyssey's a/c recently quit and this 'ible helped me finally get my rear vents working. hpage66's comment allowed me to get the duct out of the way just enough to get to the mounting bolts (see pic of sleeve on duct). The 2nd tab fell apart since I didn't keep it pressed together till it cooled. To fix, I placed some of the black substance I'd cut off between the 2 parts and reheated, squeezed, and cooled. In the end, the resistance measured 1.2 ohms. Do one side at a time so you can note and compare the orientation of the large gear in regards to how it is connected to the window latch as I had to completely disassemble to pull out the motor with worm gear.</p>
<p>Good post, good pictures. fixed in short order. thanks you.</p>
Thanks to the guy that posted this! I fixed my 03 Odyssey Honda today.
<p>ilu1947</p><p>I'm happy to say I fix my rear window vent on my 2003 Odyssey with zero cost to me. I'm not a mechanic, 69 year old retired but I love to fix my own cars. I followed</p><p>the step by step instructions on this website, several times I went back and forth between the internet and my driveway where I'm doing the repair. I squeezed with a</p><p>vise grip the tab where the black stuff is sandwhich between the two metals. Then, I heated it with a blow torch probably 1 second or watch the black stuff oozes</p><p>out about half of it , then let it cool then slice it off with a sharp knife. I used the ohm\meter the; resistance its 3 ohms.</p><p>I 'd like to share this with everyone with the same problem. Don't rush buying the</p><p>motor unit (almost $100) try this first. All you need is a little patient and a little</p><p>bit of analyzing things. </p><p> Thank you very much to whoever posted this step by step</p><p>instructions (steps 1-8).</p>
<p>Saw this after repairing/modifying my drink tray and decided to give it a try. It worked perfectly. Saved over $100 in &quot;new&quot; motors for my windows. Now onto another project.</p>
<p>mark the motor and the little case so they line up the right way when you put them back together. You don't have to take off the arm but you have to loosen it and slide it down a little so that you have the slack to take the motor with the worm screw out. when you are heating the connection don't heat it too much and hold the two metal parts together while you heat it. if you don't one part might fall off but don't worry you can put them back together, hold them in place and heat it up again. I fixed both of my motors but gave up putting the interior panels back and took my car to my local auto body shop to put back together. (My wife has given them lots of business.) I saved at least $150.</p>
<p>Where can I find a part number for the bolt that goes through the wing window to attach it to the moving mounting plate. Mine is LOST. (2000 Odyssey)</p>
Entering 2016 with two working side windows-thanks for the instructions!!
Awesome instructable! Worked perfectly on my 03 Odyssey!
<p>hi</p><p>just bought an used odyssey with this problem... fixed thanks to you! </p><p>thank you so much, should put a donnate button. </p><p>ps : i had an air pipe on passenger side on my EX model - access a bit more difficult</p>
<p>sadly, when I put them back in the van, they did not work.</p>
<p>Check your fuses.</p>
For whatever reason, I tried it again this morning and now it worked. I did the mod to the driver side, in about 20 minutes start to finish and it worked! Thanks again!
<p>Awesome! Just saved 100 bucks on new motors. Works as described, just push the contact out through the other side of the connector. I used a small butane benzomatic torch to heat the sandwiched area, and after a couple of seconds the black material sqished out from light pressure from the needle-nose pliers, I repeated on both ends of the sandwich to get a uniform thickness and that was it. Scraped up the excess and retested the ohms. I have to note that the native resistance of the metal was 0.5ohms and across the whole contact it was 18.1. Once finished it was 1.3ohms, so I left a bit more material but what a sweet sound when that motor fired right up. Thanks a bunch for putting this mod up. i loves the internets.</p>
<p>It worked like a charm. Thanks a ton for put the time and brain power into figuring this out and then for posting the instructions.</p>
<p>worked great thanks!</p>
<p>Totally worked. Thanks!</p>
<p>Hey nice guide. Followed it exactly and everything works now. Thank you for taking the time to help everyone else with this issue.</p>
<p>actually paid $40 for a pair of vent motors removed from a salvage yard. Replaced drivers side with no success. Upon further research I googled problem and found this post and true to the word the problem was all in the connector? I pulled the connector apart as advertised and did just as the instruction said and true to the instruction, i now have two perfectly running vent windows. Thanks for this instruction!</p>
I found a trick to moving the duct work rearward. Look carefully at the place where the duct attached to the blower housing, Note that the duct includes a sleeve where it attaches; the sleeve is inside the duct.. You can carefully push this sleeve up into the duct allowing the duct to clear the attaching lip, allowing one to move the duct rearward, allowing one to remove the motor.
I dunno what the goo is, but you can fix this by wiring in a light bulb across the two terminals. This apparently acts as a thermistor, which is what the original goo is supposed to do; as you surmise it is an overload protection. ...Or so says the author of another document i found on a different site for people who like to fix things.
I tried this and the two halves of the tab separated completely. The inside is a silver covering with nothing to stick them back together with. Rats; maybe I heated it too much. Ah, well, thanks for the clear directions! I guess I'll have to buy a new motor after all.
If I were you I would try to use some of the mysterious black material to stick to two pieces of the tab back together. Put the the stuff in between the tabs, hold them with some pliers, and heat.<br><br>If that does not work I would just solder the two tab pieces back together. Just be careful not to stall the motor when you use it. Some of the contributors to the odyclub forum spoke of wiring or soldering the pieces together.
Unfortunately, the mysterious black material was mysteriously missing from my tabs; all that was there was a silver lining, similar to aluminum foil, on each piece. I went ahead and bought a new motor, and lo and behold, the geniuses at the overseas factory had put the arm (that attaches to the window mount) on backwards. I don't want to try to reverse it, since it looks fragile. When I am picking up Rear Window Motor Version 2 tomorrow, I'll try to get the shop to divulge the name of the mysterious substance and will try that before opening the new package.
One rear vent motor was dead for a year then the other vent motor died. Because neither rear vent window was working, I was about to order new motors online and saw the link to your video. I just fixed both vent windows. Thanks for posting.

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