Introduction: Hooded Overcoat
Runner Up in the
Sew Warm Contest 2018
A one size fits many, oversized coat. This is a great project for those just beginning to make clothing. The pattern consists of 4 different sized rectangles so it's very easy to draw and cut your own pattern. You will need to have a basic understanding of operating a sewing machine in order to complete.
Step 1: Gather Materials
You will need to following:
- Paper (Enough to draw pattern. See step 2 for dimensions. You can use newspaper as long as ink doesn't rub off on the fabric)
- Ruler and/or Measuring Tape
- 3 yards of fabric of 45" width minimum. (No knits, or anything to stiff or bulky. I used linen, any nicely draping cotton or lightweight denim would be nice)
- 30" separating zipper
- thread to match your fabric
- iron and ironing board
Optional: pinking shears. If you don't have these you can use regular scissors to accomplish a similar effect, it's just a bit more tedious.
Step 2: Drawing the Pattern
To begin you will need to draw and cut out your paper pattern. See the images for exact dimensions and markings. Make sure to transfer all the markings onto your pattern in order to refer back as you go. The lines in red are NOT a part of the pattern, they are only there for dimension reference. Do not include these in your pattern.
Tip: You can tape several pieces of newsprint or junk mail ads together for your pattern pieces as long as they aren't going to rub ink off onto a light colored fabric.
CF= center front, CB= center back, Grain= direction of fabric fibers (usually parallel to selvage edge)
Step 3: Cutting Out the Fabric
Iron out any creases or wrinkles before you cut! Fold your fabric lengthwise, matching selvage edges together. Pin pattern pieces into place so that grain direction runs lengthwise, making sure the fold edge of pieces #1 and #2 are placed along the folded edge. Image 1
Cut out the 4 pieces and make small notches where indicated.
For piece #1 Cut through pattern and fabric to end of dotted line marked "neck". Then cut along the fold line from neck to end of fabric as indicated by dotted line. Image 2
You should now have a body, two sleeve cuffs, one collar piece, and two facing pieces.
Step 4: Sew Side Seams
Fold body fabric in half at the shoulder/neck line, with right sides together. Some fabric can be difficult to know which side is the right side, whichever side you choose to be the outside (or right side) of the garment, just be consistent throughout the project. Matching side seam notches. Pin and sew from the notch down on each side using a 1/2 seam allowance. Image 1 & 2
If you have pinking shears, use them to cut along the edge of the seam you just sewed. This will help to keep your fabric from fraying. You don't need to do this step if your fabric doesn't fray at all. If you don't have pinking shears you can make small notches along the edge of the seam allowance. This works the same way but can be tedious. These are the only seams that you will need to do this with.
Cut through the side seam notch just to edge of the seam. Image 3
Press seam allowances toward the open/front side of the garment. This makes the seams less visible from the front. Image 4
Step 5: Sewing on Hood/Collar
With right sides together pin one edge of collar piece where notches are located to the neckline of the body piece. Placing notches at the inside corner of neckline and sew with 1/4" seam allowance.
Sewing the sharp inside corner of the neckline can be tricky. See first image for tip on sewing an inside corner.
Press seam allowance toward the hood. Image 2
Fold opposite raw edge of hood toward the wrong side of fabric 1/4" and press. With wrong sides together fold this edge to meet the seam you just sewed on the hood, hiding the seam allowance. Line up notches and pin into place. Image 3
You can hand stitch this edge or stitch in the ditch to secure.
To stitch in the ditch, make sure the folded edge sits just beyond the seam line when pinning, so it will catch when you sew on the other side. Then flip the garment over and pin the same line on the right side. Now you can remove the pins from the inside and stitch along the seam line, catching the edge on the inside.
You should now have something that looks like image 4
Step 6: Gathering the Hood Sides
Sew two seams right next to each other at 1/4" and 3/8" from edges of hood sides. The stitch lengths for these should be about double what you normally stitch at. Machines may vary but mine all say about 4 or 5 setting for stitch length when gathering. When sewing make sure that you only backtack (sew back and forth a few stitches to secure seam ends) at the beginning and leave the ends unsecured. You will then hold onto the bobbin threads (threads on underside) and pull both at the same time while gently feeding fabric toward secured ends into a gather.
Gather until both hood sides measure 6" in length and knot bobbin threads together to secure ends and hold gather in place.
Step 7: Sewing Sleeve Cuff
Fold cuffs in half at the shoulder point notches (long edges and right sides together), and sew edges with 1/2 seam allowance.
Press seams open. Image 1
Turn cuff right side out and body of garment wrong side out.
Line up one edge of cuff with armhole by pulling the cuff from inside armhole, right side are touching, matching seams and notches. Image 2 and 3
Sew 1/2" seam allowance around arm hole.
Pull entire garment inside out. Press seams toward cuff side. Fold ends of cuff to wrong side 1/2" and press. With wrong sides together fold end of cuff over itself to meet to seam line you just sewed. You will now either hand stitch to hide the seam or use the stitch in ditch method described in Step 5 Attaching the Hood.
If using the stitch in ditch method and your machine does not have an arm hole attachment you can turn the garment inside out and gather aside the top of fabric to reach the inside. Image 4
Turn right side out and fold cuff once more over itself just to the seam line and press. Image 5
Step 8: Preparing the Facing Pieces
Turn one long edge of facing toward wrong side 1/4" twice to finish edge, press and stitch. Repeat this for top edge. Do the same thing to the other facing piece making sure you are sewing the opposite long edge. Image 1
Step 9: Zipper Attachment
Separate the two sides of the zipper. Noting right and left sides.
Turn garment right side out and match the top of the right hand side of zipper to the top of right hand side of garment. Zipper will be pinned down with teeth pointing toward side of garment and right sides touching. Begin pinning down zipper. Image 1
When you get to the hood seam you will begin pinning down the facing with zipper sandwiched between facing and garment. Lining up the finished top edge of facing to the hood seam and matching the raw edges and zipper edge together. Sew right hand zipper into place.
Turn facing to inside of garment and press all seams flat away from zipper.
Before doing the same thing for the left side. You will want to reattach the left side of zipper and zip up. Make a small notch at the directly across from the hood seam. This will ensure that your seams line up evenly when coat is zipped up. Image 2
Once you have the left side sewn and pressed, you will want to secure the top edge of facing with either a hand stitch or stitch in ditch technique. Image 3
Step 10: Hemline
Open bottom edge of facing away from garment and fold up 1/2" and then over again 1". Image 1
Press into place and fold facing back to inside of garment. Press and pin. Continue to fold 1/2" and then 1", pressing and pinning as you go until you finish hemline. Image 2
Press entire garment and You're Done!!!!
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