Some may ask why is this tut when there is the easier one wit the iron from digikey. Well the answer is, digikey doesn't ship to europe and all I managed to find here is this type of desoldering irons. One more thing is that this conversion is totaly reversible, you can use your desoldering iron to desolder in just one minute - no modifications to the stock irons are made.
What you will need for this tutorial
1. Desoldering iron 40W with a built-in vaccume pump - $ 6
2. One bottle cap
3. One screw 5x20mm
4. One fishtank air pump - $ 6
5. 1m (3ft) flexible hose-pipe - $ 0,3
6. 1cm of hard hose-pipe
7. 1m (3ft) thin copper wire
You will need a drill machine and 2,7 or 3mm drill bit
so let's start...
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Signing UpStep 1: The iron
It is 40W and you can find the same at ebay.
First we must disassemble our desoldering iron. It has a body, a yellow cylinder, a spring and a piston.
The spring and the piston we don't need, so we pack them together, in case we deceide to use the iron as it is meant to be used.








































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http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Vacuum-Pen-From-Aquarium-Air-Pump/?ALLSTEPS
I would like to know if the pump would be effective for this purpose. is it possible?
:)
I have one in my tool box.. maybe I'll look for a small vacuum and have a go..
Will you make a movie from work Hot air soldering gun ?
The copper wire from a transformer ... well these wires have a protective lacquer for insulation, may be you should remove it first, it will bake when you put it in the shaft, also I was using a quite thin wire ~ 0,3mm , but you should try with what you have, it could be even better than mine.
As for the video ... sorry, I don't have a camcoder.
1 how long it takes the solder melt at a temperature of 240 C ?
2 I do not understand step 5 Tunning: I wrap the copper wire to the screwdriver and put the desoldering iron?
as I have pointed out in step 5, the 240'C is not hot enough to solder/reflow smd parts, because it is the AIR temperature, and as it gets out of the soldering gun it cools down quickly, also a PCB is a heatsink by itself so the solder won't melt. So step 5 is all about boosing up the hot air temperature.
Without this copper wire wound into a spring, the air flows through the desoldering iron freely, and what heats the air up is the inner area of the shaft, that the air is going through. Even more the velocity of the air in the tube is quite low, so I guess the flow may be laminar, so only the outter layer of the air is heated, and so not all of the air is heated equally. To solve this situation we create a obstacle in the way of the air flow, that do two things for us. First it make the flow turbulent and second it increase the hot area that the air is in contact with. So now we have more equally heated air and more heat conducted to the air. That's it.
I hope this clears out the theory behind step 5, but what you have to do is just put the coil into the hallow shaft of your desoldering iron, and that's it.