I have built this carbon composite MTB frame four years ago using simple building method which is described in this Instructable. Of course, this method is not suitable for mass production, but if you plan to build just one or two frames for yourself, it is sufficient and you can build your own frame of a high quality. The feeling of riding a self-made frame is great!
After years of riding, the frame is still okay and I am still alive too, although I prefer riding my bike equipped by the bamboo/carbon frame, which I have built using the same method described here. Until now, several frames have been built by this method in the world.
After years of riding, the frame is still okay and I am still alive too, although I prefer riding my bike equipped by the bamboo/carbon frame, which I have built using the same method described here. Until now, several frames have been built by this method in the world.
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Few important things you need for building the carbon frame
1. Frame jig - it is used to hold all parts in their exact position. I have built the frame jig from scrap wooden rods and some lathed parts and connected with screws. You can also build e.g. adjustable aluminum jig, where you can make the frame geometry according your needs. As a template of a frame dimensions for construction of a jig, I have used my bike frame that I rode before. The completed jig was stiff enough and guaranteed the position and the alignment of the metal parts during the construction of the foam core.
2. Metal parts - they include an aluminum bottom bracket shell, head tube, short seat tube, cable stops, rear dropouts and a rear brake bosses. The used thin walled tubes and cable stops were made on a lathe, for the carbon frame I have purchased rear dropouts and brake bosses from the bike parts supplier. I have made them by water-jet cutting for the bamboo frame. I prefer to use 7075 Alloy for the metal parts. It is good to have all aluminum parts anodized, as then you do not need to wrap a light layer of fiberglass around the aluminum tubes and part of the rear dropouts as an insulation between the aluminum and the carbon against galvanic corrosion.
3. Foam core - I have used polystyrene foam to make the core of the carbon frame. But it is better to use extruded polystyrene, or polyurethane foam, which is more rigid. Later I have used the polyurethane foam which is normally used for insulation of the outer walls of buildings.
4. Materials for laminating - I have chosen a bi-directional woven carbon cloth (180 grams per square meter). I have used MGS's L285 epoxy resin with hardener 285 for laminating. For the carbon frame I used about 3.8 sq.m of the fabric, for the bamboo frame about 2.0 sq.m. You can also use uni-directional carbon for the base layers and use the bi-directional carbon just for the outer layer.
5. Supplies - I used plastic kitchen foil for covering the workbench during the wetting out the carbon, latex gloves, a small digital scale for weighing of the exact volume of resin and hardener, cups for mixing, paint brushes for wetting out, lots of electrical tape, sand paper and a good respirator during sanding.
6. Patience - the more the better
2. Metal parts - they include an aluminum bottom bracket shell, head tube, short seat tube, cable stops, rear dropouts and a rear brake bosses. The used thin walled tubes and cable stops were made on a lathe, for the carbon frame I have purchased rear dropouts and brake bosses from the bike parts supplier. I have made them by water-jet cutting for the bamboo frame. I prefer to use 7075 Alloy for the metal parts. It is good to have all aluminum parts anodized, as then you do not need to wrap a light layer of fiberglass around the aluminum tubes and part of the rear dropouts as an insulation between the aluminum and the carbon against galvanic corrosion.
3. Foam core - I have used polystyrene foam to make the core of the carbon frame. But it is better to use extruded polystyrene, or polyurethane foam, which is more rigid. Later I have used the polyurethane foam which is normally used for insulation of the outer walls of buildings.
4. Materials for laminating - I have chosen a bi-directional woven carbon cloth (180 grams per square meter). I have used MGS's L285 epoxy resin with hardener 285 for laminating. For the carbon frame I used about 3.8 sq.m of the fabric, for the bamboo frame about 2.0 sq.m. You can also use uni-directional carbon for the base layers and use the bi-directional carbon just for the outer layer.
5. Supplies - I used plastic kitchen foil for covering the workbench during the wetting out the carbon, latex gloves, a small digital scale for weighing of the exact volume of resin and hardener, cups for mixing, paint brushes for wetting out, lots of electrical tape, sand paper and a good respirator during sanding.
6. Patience - the more the better
Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »
Questions
1. Is there any standard global sizing for bike
2. Currently I am using Catia V5 what kind of factors and calculations do I need to consider?
3. what is the weight of your frame?
Harley Fenders
Carbon Fiber Bicycles , Carbon Wheel Sets
Definitely on my list of things to do when I get some time/space/money etc etc...
forum
just google polystyrene solvent (or whatever type of foam you used) then double-check to make sure that it won't eat your epoxy, too
please respond
thanks and great build i hope to build one someday
and how much was the total build cost
thanks again
Then there are several processes to laminate it, the one what Brano described is a very effective and cheap solution. If you plan to apply carbon fiber (or glass fiber, or texalium) texture on a surface, you may do the same punch-made-holes method on 0.2-0.5 mm thick film, and then somehow pull it on the treated surface.
Was just wondering how much CF cloth you needed to make the full frame? and what you used as a template for the bottom bracket shell and head tube?
Cheers,
Mike
Here http://compositeenvisions.com/
it has left me with so many questions about the process but I suppose that will be half the fun finding out if I ever get my bike building going.
But I would like to ask you how much carbon fiber did you use in the carbon fiber bike and how much did you use in the Bamboo/Carbon bike?
I spoke to calfee the other day and told me that the thermodynamic expansion of carbon and bamboo would cause the joints to eventually separate. Have you had any experience with this? What are your thoughts?
Dan
Questions:
I would like to see the shapes of the carbon fiber you cut, before you used the resin. Did it overlap itself, and how did you decide where to have it overlap? Do you have any recommendations for best ways of cutting the shapes?
How exactly did you go about filling the bamboo with foam?
If you don't mind me asking, how much did this project of yours cost?
Maybe do a couple rolls, only half way. Then space further apart for the second half..
Can i Get online and have it shipped to Oklahoma City?
1) i know people use kevlar (Aramid) in boats, but i have never seen it in bikes. is there a reason not to use it, because i can find it cheaper than carbon?
2) what shape pieces of cloth did you laminate over the joints? strips? would it be easier to use one or two inch wide carbon tape, or cut out shapes from a 50" wide piece of cloth? also, how many layers, and of what weight, of cloth did you use for the joints?
thanks,
Adie
To all: Brano makes beautiful bikes, and you ought to check out his web site to see the others!
Thanks,
Daniel
If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Thanks for all the help,
Daniel
As for fabric, there's a tradeoff between using a heavier fabric or a lighter one. On one hand the heavier fabric will take fewer layers to do, but thicker fabrics are more difficult to wet out with epoxy and to maneuver into tight curves, while lighter fabrics wet out much easier and fit curves better, but take more layers.
For weaves, I think the main types carbon fabric comes in is like plain weave, twill, and harness-satin. The fabric i used was the harness-satin, which tends to fit curves better; which is especially nice for heavy fabrics, but frays really badly and makes a horrible mess of tiny carbon bits everywhere. Plain fits curves the worst but doesn't fray as badly, and twill is someplace in between (and looks deadly). There is also the option of using unidirectional fabrics for the inner layers, but unless you really know what you're doing, a bidirectional fabric is going to give you the least chance of the entire thing failing because you laid out the fabric badly. I think if i were going to do it again, I might go with a 3K fabric, just because it's easier to work with, but the 6K still worked pretty well and should be cheaper for the same amount of carbon.
The epoxy I used was E.A.S.T System 1032 Resin with the 834 Slow Hardener from www.noahsboatbuilding.com/ . They're in Canada (like me), but if you live in the US, the West systems epoxy in the instructable is probably a lot easier to find. I think in the end, I used about 1.5 L of resin and however much hardener that takes. You should also look into West systems 860 aluminum etch kit for preparing the metal parts for bonding.
This is a very ambitious project, and it will take a lot of work, but it's a lot of fun too. If you need any more help, just ask.
Daniel
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1368&itemType=PRODUCT
Check http://www.instructables.com/id/Hot-wire-foam-cutter/ , http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-CNC-Hot-Wire-Foam-Cutter-from-parts-availab/ , http://www.instructables.com/id/Hot-Wire-Foamcutter-Battery-Powered/
Here is my question. I was wondering if it was possible to make a bike frame out of PVC pipe? Would it be too brittle, and crack under pressure?
Thanks Brano, and good luck with the challenge.
tapplastics.com sells CF fabric. Make sure you get the 2x2 twill (style 284), it drapes better. Secondly, if you do ANYTHING with a kevlar/CF hybrid, make sure that you use a vinyl ester resin, and NOT polyester, or epoxy.
Current prices there are $65/yd. A linear yard, is 50" wide in this fabric from Tap.
Other suppliers have carbon as low as ~$45/yd.
Something else to look into something called Baltek Mat. Its a foam-like sheet, about an 1/8" thick, thats filled with glass spheres. Its extremely lightweight, and it stiffens laminates a large amount. I've only used it with fibreglass or kevlar, and not with CF, but you might be able to get away with a couple fewer layers of CF, lowering costs a bit.
i really want to try this.. might try making something i'm less likely to try and jump out of carbon first though.. like a nice chair =]