We have fun with woodworking no matter what the project is, but the most rewarding thing for us is making our own furniture. Let's say you wanted a solid oak bookcase but didn't have the four to six hundred bucks a retail store would want for one. You can achieve the same effect for less than half the cost, using a bit of solid oak trim and some veneered ply.
Note: As this is a Craftsman-sponsored project, you'll notice a number of Craftsman tools in the photos. But here's a secret: we already owned 'em all. You can, of course, attack this project with tools of your choice.
After a bit of figuring, we decided to make our bookcase 34"x12"x92" with eight shelves in it. Though we strongly urge you to design for what suits your needs best, in our case we wanted a tall bookcase with a maximum of storage space. We calculated that this setup will hold about twice as many books as most units on the market, so that was a big bonus.
Vibra-Free Sander (Craftsman)
Drill, Multi-Saw, and Worklight Combo (Craftsman)
Note: As this is a Craftsman-sponsored project, you'll notice a number of Craftsman tools in the photos. But here's a secret: we already owned 'em all. You can, of course, attack this project with tools of your choice.
After a bit of figuring, we decided to make our bookcase 34"x12"x92" with eight shelves in it. Though we strongly urge you to design for what suits your needs best, in our case we wanted a tall bookcase with a maximum of storage space. We calculated that this setup will hold about twice as many books as most units on the market, so that was a big bonus.
Vibra-Free Sander (Craftsman)
Drill, Multi-Saw, and Worklight Combo (Craftsman)
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Signing UpStep 1: Layout and Cutting
Based on a quick layout, we made a breakdown of the lumber we'd need: two sheets of 3/4 4'x8' oak-veneered ply, four 82 sticks of 33x3/4 solid oak trim, four 8' sticks of 3/4 decorative trim, and one sheet of 1/4 oak-veneered ply. Even paying retail this totals to somewhere in the neighborhood of $190 plus the rail system which will run about $8. Figure around $200 for the entire stock list.
Smaller bookcases will of course be cheaper, but this is about as large as you'd want to go, so we're giving a worst-case scenario here. Note, however, that this is still $200 cheaper than the next best solid oak candidate.
A bookcase is basically a five-sided box with the front part open, so to begin constructing one, first cut the pieces for the first four sides. With the first piece of 3/4" ply laid out, mark out the first 11"x92" piece which'll serve as the sides and cut it out. Then do the same for its mate. Measuring and cutting them out separately may seem like a pain, but unless you're really good at figuring kerf, this way is much safer.
Smaller bookcases will of course be cheaper, but this is about as large as you'd want to go, so we're giving a worst-case scenario here. Note, however, that this is still $200 cheaper than the next best solid oak candidate.
A bookcase is basically a five-sided box with the front part open, so to begin constructing one, first cut the pieces for the first four sides. With the first piece of 3/4" ply laid out, mark out the first 11"x92" piece which'll serve as the sides and cut it out. Then do the same for its mate. Measuring and cutting them out separately may seem like a pain, but unless you're really good at figuring kerf, this way is much safer.
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My friend always looked for the curve in the wood by laying it on a reliably flat surface to discern the direction of the curve. He positioned his shelves so that the curve was toward the top. In this way, the weight of the books, tchotchkies or other items resting on the shelf would bear down on the upward curve and give the items a straight surface to rest on.
Just something to keep in mind.
If your wood is "straight" as far as you can tell, be prepared to reverse (turn the shelf over) when it begins to sag. It's not the fault of the builder or the quality of the wood that will do this. It is the weight of the items we place on them. Especially books. I tend to want my shelves to rest on a support that will let me turn them as I notice sag developing. I got LOTS of BIG HEAVY books.
@Toolmonger: Great instructable! Very easy to read and good pictures.
80 grit is a carpenter's bread and butter, which is why I quit shopping at Home Depot. For a long time they quit stocking 80 grit. I asked why and they told me that they sold more 100 grit and not enough 60 grit. I shook my head and said, "Okay, buy why did you quit selling 80 grit?" He just stared at me. Needless to say, it was Lowes for me after that. Man, do I miss a decent lumber yard.
I used to do things like this all the time when I lived in an apartment and didn't have the luxury of using a table saw and other equipment like that, which one can use if you have a garage or shop. I made a lot of neat things, which just goes to show you that if you have a little motivation and DIY skills there is a lot open to you regardless of your situation. Thanks for sharing this.
I also find myself wishing there was a lumber yard instead of going to Lowes or HD. I feel like I would have more of a selection of wood. I also feel like the selection of connective hardware is less than what it used to be (kinda like how radio shack used to sell everything an electronics tinkerer could ever want and now all they sell is cell phones and pre-made crap).
I'm about to make a set of book shelves for a corner in my bedroom, a TV stand, coffee table, custom record player cabinet and recently put in a simple workstation in my recording booth (walk-in closet turned into a recording booth).
Thanks a lot, pressed the favorite button before I even started reading! Now all is left is to fill that 3.5m x 2.5m empty wall...
A suggestion if you make your shelves longer than 30 inches.
Instead of using the 3/4" decorative trim on the front of the shelves, use ~1"x1-1/2" trim boards glued to the front of the shelves. Use the trim router (step #19) to put a decorative edge on the front to keep it nice looking like the rest of the shelving unit.
This will stiffen the shelf so that you won't get swayback shelves over time while storing those Encyclopaedia Britannicas that you got from Grandma for your 10th birthday.
A 3/4"x3/4" under the back edge of the shelves would help when showing off your decorative engine blocks and glass scupltures, or if you just have to beef things up to feel better when making things.
Advanced skill suggestion.
At steps #15 and #16, use more side trim to cover the front of the fixed middle shelf. It'll be harder to make it look nice, but may be worth it. If you make this change, consider making the height of this shelf the same as the window ledges in the room or at kitchen counter height.
Most important of all, start cutting wood using this wonderful Instructable!