How To Clean The Controls On Your Amplifier

Step 3 Remove old solder

Remove old solder and inspect the pads for any burnt or broken traces. 

Comments

[fun2fix]

On this step: If you can afford a solder sucker (ie; Solder Pullit) It saves a lot of time. If done correctly, it will keep you from lifting pads and etches. It does a great job of evacuating the solder from a thru-hole. Using solder wick works great for surface mount components and some through-hole but you will end up leaving heat on the pads longer than needed. I use both and each do their job in the right places.

I wouldn't use the side-load ones, just the top-load ones like this one:

[Teslaphonics]

Yes, I agree they work well also. My basic point is not to trust the old solder, and to inspect around the pads because you can't always see a crack in the trace at the edge of a pad.

[fun2fix]

Absolutely! If you don't have the luxury of an inspection light (with lens) or an eye loupe you have to use the best technique you have.

Another idea is to use q-tips (or paper towel) with 93% Isopropyl Alcohol
(off the shelf) to clean away the flux residue left over from desoldering. That
will help immensely in your visual inspection.

I used to fix Fender amps back in the 90's. The small solid-state practice amps
were notorious for "intermittent" connections at the board. They were used by
kids who's cords were proverbially short....

[fun2fix]

Since I can't re-edit what I said, You already mentioned the alcohol... :-)

[fdmundo]

I totally agree with fun2fix -- I never got the hang of solder wick and ruined many a PCB with it. Solder-suckers work consistently well for me. Just put a little container under the bench to catch the expelled solder when you "reload."

Also, a case can be made that it's a "greener" method since you're not using up and discarding copper wick. OK, it's a trivial amount, but still...