Mowing, chainsawing, jack-hammering, running compressors, etc. Wouldn't it be nice if you could listen to music or podcasts while you're doing these loud tasks? Want to actually hear your iPod?
This DIY article will show you step-by-step how to construct completely soundproof, high fidelity headphones using firing-range rated ear protection and high quality headphones. You can literally ride your lawnmower while blowing leaves and chainsawing shrubbery, and all you will hear is Hotel California in your ears.
Wrapping each ear in its own individual sound studio, and completely blocking out exterior sound is pretty shocking the first time you put them on. These headphones sound incredible.
They are so good, in fact, that they can be dangerous. If you build with care as instructed here, you will have built headphones that put you in a bubble, absolutely null to the outside world. You will only be able to hear what's playing through the headphones, and only a visual cue will be able to get your attention. Please remember that it can be dangerous to block out all outside noises.
This will take about two hours from start to finish.
This DIY article will show you step-by-step how to construct completely soundproof, high fidelity headphones using firing-range rated ear protection and high quality headphones. You can literally ride your lawnmower while blowing leaves and chainsawing shrubbery, and all you will hear is Hotel California in your ears.
Wrapping each ear in its own individual sound studio, and completely blocking out exterior sound is pretty shocking the first time you put them on. These headphones sound incredible.
They are so good, in fact, that they can be dangerous. If you build with care as instructed here, you will have built headphones that put you in a bubble, absolutely null to the outside world. You will only be able to hear what's playing through the headphones, and only a visual cue will be able to get your attention. Please remember that it can be dangerous to block out all outside noises.
This will take about two hours from start to finish.
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Signing UpStep 1: Materials
#1 - Firing-range hearing protection
[Peltor President - $15.00] - Great brand, very comfy, most sport a -26 DB rating.
#2 - Headphones
[KOSS KSC-75 - $10.00] - Hands down, the best headphones you can buy under $50
#3 - 6 ft long Red / White stereo cable with 3.5mm mini-plug.
[Any brand - $2.00 or less]
Side note - Don't waste your money on an expensive cable. Things that matter are thickness, how it feels (rubbery, not plastic'y), and a tight 3.5mm connection.
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[The quality of your headphones and hearing protection does matter however. I built mine with the above components for $25, and they sound incredible, but you can certainly spend more if you're a real audiophile.]
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Well executed and a fantastic Instructable. A touch of humor makes everything better.Thank You
For anyone building it, my hardest part was getting the ear muffs back in with the headphones inside. If you make sure that the headphones fit flush in there from the start, it is a lot easier. Also, put the headphones in BEFORE you put the muffs back in. When you put the muffs in, crinkle the foam around the headphones first (think wrapping an apple in a napkin that isn't big enough). Then lower one side in at a 45 degree angle, making sure to keep the entire headphones crinkled like when you began. Then put in the other side of the same headphone. Repeat for the other ear.
This helped a lot.
Thanks again for the great build, Dsjackson. Great sound. Great Instructable.
You can use any kind of ear muff protectors you like, but I much prefer running the wire through the headband. I once made a pair and tried zip-tying it all in place, which works, but didn't look nearly as nice.
Thanks, I have everything ready to go and all I need to do is solder, but I'm afraid of botching it!
Just cut that additional wire that goes through the headband off - it was just carrying the signal to the driver on the opposite side. If there are any additional wires, like the green one you mentioned, cut them off. If you've already identified a positive and a negative to solder, don't worry about it what the green wire was supposed to do. You don't need it.
If you're unsure, test each driver by touching the wires to the solder points I showed in the Instructable before you solder. Plug in your Ipod, and once you get sound, solder it down. Remember, SOLDER FAST. Clean the points, get your iron really hot, and make a quick dot. If you hold the heat to the driver for more than a few seconds, you will burn the voice coil up. Let me know if you have any more questions.
If you're worried about DB protection, take care to not mangle the foam when you're carving the divot. Measure properly and use a sharp razor blade, and try to make one long cut instead of "chopping" at the foam with the razor.
Those foam inserts are THE sound blocking barrier. Be calculated and think "surgeon". If you tear, stretch and mangle the foam, you'll damage that sound blocking barrier.
If you run into any problems just post it and I'll try to help. Good luck-
One question: In the image showing the positive and negative wires, your description is "3. Same here. The colored, solid, darker wire is the positive. The smaller, lighter wire is the negative."
but the image shows the solid thick wire as negative and the thin copper wire as positive.
Which is it? Am I not reading it properly?
Thanks so much!
Here's the image I'm referring to: http://www.instructables.com/files/orig/FPT/1HPQ/GJHVL5RV/FPT1HPQGJHVL5RV.jpg
The easiest way to figure out which wire goes where is just to test. Plug the 3.5mm jack into your iPod, and play some music. Try the wires one way, and if it sounds like garbled mess, you know it's supposed to be the other way. You won't hurt anything.
Email me directly if you need any more help, I'm happy to walk you through it. - dsjackson1 at live dot com.
Now, all you're doing is touching those cables to the solder points on the back of the driver until you hear music. Then solder it down, and bam, you got it.
Send me pictures of what you have if you need any more help.
While you're there, pick up some 3.5mm to 3.5mm f/f adapters and use them with this retractable cord for a wire extension. Pull apart the retractable cord (throw away the spring components and you'll have a pretty slender extension for your new awesome headphones!
Audio Cable:
http://bit.ly/HgXvX
3.5mm to 3.5mm f/f adapter:
http://bit.ly/qZdsJp
Retractable cord:
http://bit.ly/gNRkrX