Introduction: How to Duplicate & Prototype Your Own RC Car Parts Cheaply! UPDATED - APRIL 2017 !

Picture of How to Duplicate & Prototype Your Own RC Car Parts Cheaply! UPDATED - APRIL 2017 !

Hi Folks!

As im STILL waiting for parts to arrive for my very 1st instructable, so here's another project to carry on with!

ive been out once a month ish racing my little 1/10th RC Nitro Buggy!

Slight History:

My Racing Buddy comes with me whenever he can and a few weeks ago his buggy's front suspension arm took a serious knock and broke off a major part where it connects to the rest of the car, ON A HINGE section!!!

Anyhoo, suffice to say that im a Jedi Master in the Art of Bodging, lol, and have a range of plastic glues, one of which cures very strong and becomes one with the part its fixed to & i also add extra of this stuff so that i can later shave it off so it further reinforces the repaired part...

Well, only a week later and Homer's gone and killed my beautiful repair job and not only that, i finally got my buggy working properly after a new clutch install and i'd had a MOJOR accident and totally had written-off a few parts on the front of MY car! The steering servo-saver had totally snapped-off from the servo-saver column (the bit that screws onto the servo linkage...) and the right side suspension arm had snapped in two places (See pic below) that meant i couldn't 'Bodge' a quick repair in the field and had to pack up everything only after a few hours of being out! (It was bloody-FREEEEEEEEZING by this point so wernt that fussed bout going home, lol)!

So I'd got back onto my fav RC Shopping Website, Ebay, lol, and STILL, even tho the parts were cheaper than the specialist shops, it was beginning to get expensive for just a poor mans hobby (Im very poor, lol) so i decided that im never again going to buy another plastic replaceable part for our buggies ever again, if i could help it...

So i went about dismantling my buggy and removed the irreparably damaged parts and started to make a mold for the front suspension arm.... Here's what i used and the costs, also NOTE that anything ive bought in BULK, will obviously last me ages and further aid me in the creation of different molds of a range of RC Car Parts!


Plasti Dip Clear (750ml) (Bulk Order)
Polymorph (Bulk Order)
Single Core Wire 1/0.6mm (Bulk Order) {For Reinforcing Parts!}
Petroleum Jelly (Tiny Tin !)

Needle Nose Pliers (Short)
Heavy Duty Pliers (If and/or needed at-all !)
Plastic Glue Spreader (for even-coating of the parts)
Universal Vice (You dont have to use this but just buy it damn-it, its so cheap & it'll pay for itself each time you use it!)
Sharpie Marker Pen
Wire Strippers
Wire Cutters
Mini Precision Screwdriver
FlameLESS Gas Torch (Optional)
Dremel - with METAL drill bits
Small Disposable Plastic Tray (I used the plastic packaging that came with a new 13-port USB Powered Hub!)
Small Cut out piece of cardboard...

EYE Safety Goggles
HEAT-Resistant Gloves (Optional - SO TAKE CARE WITH HOT THINGS)
Cutting Mat
Safety Knife
HEAT-RESISTANT GLASS DISH (Pyrex Brand if you can help-it !)
Slash-Resistant-GLOVES (I used-to work in the Security-Industry so already had these) {Optional - SO TAKE CARE}



Step 1: 1st - Make the Mould for Your RC Component (or Whatever You Need Duplicated!)

Picture of 1st - Make the Mould for Your RC Component (or Whatever You Need Duplicated!)

What you need to do here is 1st of all is to cut the plastic tray so that its a good size that can be easily handled as i had just used the plastic packaging from a new 13-Port USB Powered-Hub, and when you have found a suitable plastic container that you dont mind ruining: 

- Get the petroleum jelly and coat the inside of the Plastic Tray that we are going to use to temporarily hold our mould... Not so much that its easy to see that you've coated it, just enough to make our job later on of removing the rubber mould a heck of a lot easier!

- Next, Scoop out the Plasti-Dip, i used a top from a deodorant can and a pair of needle nose pliers to scoop it out of the tin... (See pic!) And just slightly fill the base of the plastic tray so you have, say, a 5mm layer of liquid rubber in the base of the tray...

- I waited about 2 hours until this 1st layer was only-partially cured, DO NOT let this 1st layer completely dry of the next layers WONT stick...
NOTE: Also when you leave the tray to part-cure (DRY), make DOUBLY-sure that the surface is totally LEVEL or as close to level as you can get - You might want to use a spirit level and measure horizontally & vertically that the surface is totally flat because when and as the layers are drying, you do not want the liquid rubber to cure at an angle so that it all collects in one corner!

- Repeat the above step so that you add another 5mm layer of Plasti-Dip liquid rubber so that you will now have a good generous 10mm/ish of liquid rubber in the base of the tray....Wait another 1-2 hours till its Partially-Cured...

Step 2: Grease the Suspension Arm More Than Liberally (OTT STYLE !)

Picture of Grease the Suspension Arm More Than Liberally (OTT STYLE !)

Yaa, slight cheat here, i used coco butter, yes, my own supply because im a tart, lol, and also because i have run out of petroleum jelly!

- Make sure whatever you use, its grease-like but please, no moisturizer as i dont know what effect that'll have on the rubber as moisturizers are usually made of many hundreds of chemicals - so use something thats in its raw but pure form!

Step 3:

Picture of

- Place the OTT (Over-The-Top) coated part into the middle of the tray (Still making sure that the 2nd layer of liquid rubber is only partly cured...) and also making sure that the last part of the piece you touched has also got a VERY generous coating of petroleum jelly on...

- Next, add enough liquid rubber all around the part NOT ON TOP OF IT, and in all the holes and gaps just enough to "just-about" reach the top of the part....

- To get most of the air bubbles out to the top, pick up the tray and only from a distance of roughly 15cm ish, GENTLY drop the tray onto your flat surface about 5-6 times, DO NOT do this too much or the petroleum jelly will become mixed in in-accurate places and your mold will not be an almost or exact copy and when its time to start using the polymorph the mold will be a very odd shape...

Step 4: Reinforcement Wire...

Picture of Reinforcement Wire...

Now, because im totally fed-up with solid plastic parts always breaking, to be fair though, we go race our 1/10th buggies in the winter as well as the summer but during the extreme cold environments that theu are constantly in, the cold plastic parts dont really have much resistance when it comes to getting sharp-knocks and crashes into solid objects, the buggies me and me pal, Homer, have only have 0.15ci (2.5cc) Nitro powered engines, the smallest engines that are available for these RC Cars, but still, the amount of force they can crash into things with can be quite severe, and especially as our buggies manufacturer boasts that these things can go upto 65mph (105km/h) ish, so they extreme cold and sheer force of impact makes the cheap plastic parts brittle (the cold make em brittle, lol) so they instantly snap or break....

Right, back to the instructable, sorry, i get side-tracked, like now, lol...!

- Now, i fixed into my desktop vice a small precision screwdriver, as you can see in the pic below, ready for the wire to be twisted to add extra strength to it but 1st...

- You will need to strip the SINGLE-CORE wire, when i bought the wire, i bought them in 1 meter lengths and i just picked a colour that i dont and probably wont use in my electronics meddling... Purple it was, lol...

- I used a whole meter of wire to make each of the reinforcement wire-framework struts for my suspension arms, cut into two 500mm (or 50cm, whatever, lol) lengths, stripped and then i started twisting the wire together from the mid-point of each strip, one strip at a time... Check out the pics below...

Step 5: After the Mold Has Dried and Set - CAREFULLY Cut Only the TOP LAYER Off !

Picture of After the Mold Has Dried and Set - CAREFULLY Cut Only the TOP LAYER Off !

Yaa only cut the top layer of the rubber off of the mold, and because the suspension arm was greased OTT style, all you gotta do is VERY CAREFULLY  cut the top layer of rubber from the mold being very careful NOT to cut into your part, YOUR FINGERS, ffs, and take your EXTREME TIME WITH THIS - EVEN IF IT TAKES YOU A WEEK, fine....

At least it will save horribly cutting yourself as the rubber is VERY TOUGH and STRONG (if the REAL Plasti-Dip was bought...) so Again, TAKE-YOUR-SWEET-TIME with this step and also use a brand-new knife... I used a stanley knife that you can break away a small sliver of the knife (disposable) in order to keep using the sharpest parts of the knife...

Step 6: Melting the Polymorph... (AFTER THE MOLD Has Dried Again!)

Picture of Melting the Polymorph... (AFTER THE MOLD Has Dried Again!)

Okay, now just follow the instructions that came with your polymorph thermoplastic, but if you didnt get any decent instructions, the link below is a cool 9-page .pdf with the full & unabridged instructions for how to use it PROPERLY and here we go with yet another pesky Disclaimer...

Polymorph Instructions (.pdf) (As its so cheap from this company that made these instructions, it would be cool if you had bought the polymorph from these people!)




I also have an IR Thermometer to check the temp of the water, the instructions clearly states that NO-MORE than 60-65 DEGREES CELSIUS should be used to get polymorph started to become mold-able...

I always get a headache writing them disclaimers....ffs...

Right, back to the Fun part!

Now that you have your polymorph melted and have a small enough quantity mixed, 1st wrap little bits of it all over the wire framework that we created earlier on, gradually adding to it and keep an eye on how the part looks like that your trying to duplicate and add polymorph to as much of the wire framework as to copy the part being duplicated...

Step 7: LAST PART - DRILLING !!!!!

Picture of LAST PART - DRILLING !!!!!

Well, congratulations if you've made it this far in another of my insufferably LONG instructables !!! Pat on the back is an order!!!

Last bit is to drill the holes identically to "Mirror" the original part...

USE  METAL DRILLING BITS because we used wire in the part, so this makes sense! lol


INSPECT the parts and add more polymorph as needed to any sections that need it...

I have a flameless gas torch so its easier to do these things, originally i bought it for using with heatshrink on my cables and electronics messing about but it serves this purpose nicely AND i dont have to mess around with HOT water...

--- If you do invest in one of these, it'll come in handy !!!!



And Go crack open a few beers ! (or a cream-soda if your under-age !!!)

Now you can DUPLICATE ANY part you want with the method/s i have shown you here and  ONLY keep buying the polymorph to use to create more parts !!!

THIS will save you so much money as your plasti-dip will last for AT-LEAST 20+ DIFFERENT molds of varying sizes so once you have the bulk stuff, you will only need to top-up the POLYMORPH !!!!


also if you've got this far, please please be kind to rate my instructable as each one takes days if-not weeks to put together for free use for everyone - many thanks in advance !!

Polymorph here in the UK only costs £3.60 per 100 grams (£1.93 per 100g + £1.65 p&p) on ebay HERE

  ***   UPDATED   ***

MY SUSPENSION ARM costs 6.81 USD  = 4.29856 GBP from the LINK HERE but with the 100 grams of POLYMORPH bought from ebay, i can make 26-30 Suspension ARMS compared to BUYING JUST A PAIR from a specialist RC Website... I'll NEVER BUY ANOTHER PART AGAIN !!!

Step 9: Bonus: Shock-Absorbing BUMPER !!!

Picture of Bonus: Shock-Absorbing BUMPER !!!

Well, whilst i'm still playing around with liquid rubber and all my gear hasn't been put away yet, here's aVERY QUICK MODthat will help PROTECT the Front-End of your RC Cars from High-Speed Impacts and more-or-less ACT like a REAL Car-Bumper !!!

You'll Need:
Polystyrene (The MOST-FIRM you can find {DENSE, lol})
Roofing-Grade Liquid Rubber ! (Click on the 2nd Picture on the website, something went wrong on the 1st!)
2 Short Pieces of Single-Core Wire (From Before!)
Plastic Glue Spreader

Any Alcohol-Based Hand Gel
Cotton Face Pads (NOT that you should be getting ANY Liquid Rubber ANYWHERE Near your FACE ! lol !)

                                  And ALWAYS REMEMBER --- WHATEVER YOU DO --- SAFETY FIRST --- !!!

Ive also only realized that on certain web-browsers, IE, ffs.... Don't show ALL MY MAY INSTRUCTIONS that ive slapped on the HUNDREDS on photo's that are informing you of what to do, with what & How, i'll try to put the instructions here in the main text and only make short labels on the pictures themselves, but as ""I"" like to explain things VIA pictures and its also how ""I"" like to learn new things because i find it easier to "LOOK" at picture-instructions as in MY own humble opinion, its a better way of actually showing you whats going on with my methods!

So... If my pictures are virtually plain with no text, change your web browser! Firefox kept AUTO-CLOSING itself down on me ALL last year, IE i just dont trust as being safe, Chrome is FAR too SIMPLE for me and i have also been usingOpera from which ive NEVER had any problems in the last TEN YEARS of using it !!! So, as per usual, you are your own boss when it comes to what browser you like to use!

Anyhoo, here we go! (lol)

Cut 3 pieces of Polystyrene, 4mm (W) x 6.5mm (L) and mine that i found in packaging was 15mm Thick !
Check out the Pics !!!

PASTE a generous layet in-between all the polystyrene blocks and SANDWICH them together....

STAB the LONG piece of single-core-wire through the TOP of the block and the SHORT piece at the BOTTOM (SEE PICS !)

CLAMP the sandwiched polystyrene blocks onto a pair of helping hands, but clamp the LONG piece of wire to the helping-hands and USE the SHORT bits of wire that are only sticking out a TINY amount from each side of the sandwiched block to keep the entire thing steady whilst you paste on the THICK roofing liquid rubber!!!

IF you get some of this stuff on your fingers, IMMEDIATELY clean it off with some alcohol hand gel dabbed onto a face-pad then simply wipe it off your fingers, TRUST ME, its better to do this BEFORE it turns into a NIGHTMARE of stick fingers then by the time you know-it, there will be rubberized finger prints EVERYWHERE and its a right-sod to get clean afterwards !!!

Let Dry for ONLY 12 HOURS, the RE-COAT..... YOU IDEALLY WANT 3 to 4 THICK coats but you have to wait 12 hours between coats so you will need to take a few days to make these bumpers BUT its SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO-WORTH-IT !!

Then AFTER the final coat, you need to allow it to fully dry and it took a good 48 hours for mine to dry completely, but a FURTHER 48 hours was needed BEFORE ROUGH handling !!!

The instructions on MY Roofing Liquid Rubber Said that if i wanted to double-coat anything then the standard time to wait between coats WAS 12 HOURS, whatever roofing-grade liquid-rubber YOU obtain, check the instructions to see what it say for it and follow as directed !

As soon as its all dry, i "Strapped" it to my Front Plastic Bumper and gave the WHOLE-ASSEMBLY a further 3 COATS, but a little thinner than before because at this point a week had gone past and i was VERY EAGER to start crashing, er, i meant driving my car again,lol !!!

Have Fun !!!

                                          And ALWAYS REMEMBER --- WHATEVER YOU DO --- SAFETY FIRST --- !!!


LeeE19 (author)2016-04-23

Just a quick question from this most . What was the make and model of your buggy. Ive been trying 6 months to find s front suspensiom part you made . Any help would be helpful

offtherails2010 (author)LeeE192017-03-09

Howdy there :)

major apologies for the really bad delay in replying, extremely bad health probs :(

Yaa this Buggy was a NIGHTMARE to find the REAL name of, as i had bought it from ebay and the seller didnt even know what it was really called even though he made it appear that he knew lol

The Make is: Victory Hawk

Model Number; VH-X5

This website seems to still source the parts but at stupidly high cost:


More Spares:

More Pics:

But as you can see by the prices - its really NOT advisable to spend such silly amounts of cash on parts the WE KNOW 100% are going to FAIL at the slightest small accident, these parts are too brittle and fragile lol

There is a better way i found out using "Casting Resin" - if you google that on youtube and google, itll show you how to:

1. make a mold

2. make high quality durable parts - BETTER than my instructable as i was just loearning how to do this with whatever i had on hand LOL

again sorry for the really badly late reply :)

Billie_lei (author)2015-09-23

Nice one .. Let me try. I spent a lots at RC cars and drones... Finally decided to make my own .. I am hoping to get as many help as i can

its a great material to use, Polymorph, as when its made, it has some shock absorbing qualities, perfect for RC vehicles that are always banging into stuff lol

Good luck and enjoy your new found freedom of making your own RC parts :))

mleung6 (author)2015-06-08

u could use hdpe plastic from bottle caps and stuff, melt them at 175°c and u get plastic pretty much for free. There are a few Instructables and YouTube video that teach u how to melt them and put them into a mold.Great Instructable by the way, keep up the good work, I love homemade rc car parts and being cheap is an extra bonus!

modelerc (author)2014-12-24

Good job men!

tcoyle1 (author)2014-04-02

Digging up an old instructable here... I am new to the RC hobby world and stumbled upon this last night after breaking ANOTHER a-arm on my Revo. This is something I am totally going to look into. Awesome instructable!

AmazingRCstore (author)2012-07-24

This is great, thank you for sharing!

Major Thanks for the praise, really means alot for my humble contribution to the Homemade-RC parts section lol !!


lol home made parts are the best... home made anything takes the prize! :)

Once again many thanks for the great feedback !

i am so happy others have this chance to make replacement parts on the cheap too without forking out the stupidly high prices the 'RC' world has set for, lets face it, bits of plastic lol !

when it starts costing £10 (in the UK here lol !) for a pair of A-Arms then this doesnt stay a poor-mans hobby anymore lol x 2 !!

thanks again for the awesome comment !!!


karnold70 (author)2012-03-19

Love your IBLE. Just an idea for ya about getting nice tight wrapped wire. Use a 'decorative Hook' from the hardware store and your vice. Take a nice LONG piece of wire (several feet) and clamp the loose ends in the vice. Take the Decorative hook and chuck the threaded end into a Battery Powered Drill. Pull GENTLY on the midpoint of the wire and pull the trigger.
You can get as much or as little twist in your wire as you want, and (most importantly) the twist will be uniform the full length of your wire (averages out naturally). I've done this with Aluminum Welding wire and it works great. VERY stiff, and you COULD even weld it together.

Perfect ! Another Great Method for everyones wire-wrangling days ! many many thanks ! so sorry for the Loooooooooooooooong Delay in responding ;-)

Oh also, further analyzing your message, do you weld ??!!??

Because i really really REALLY want a welding tool of some kind, i haven't the money at all to buy one but what would be a really cheap starter welding kit i could buy, if you do weld & also if you happen to know of a welding kit ala-shoe-string, lol

Also its just food for thought for the future, but im always confused-to-hell & back when it comes to deciding whether or not to get a MIG, TIG or ARC welder !!!

Anyhoo, A Major thanks again for your comments !!!


Me, I'm 'old school'. I prefered to learn from the most basic (Oxy/Acetelyne) and work my way up (to Arc Welding, then on to MIG and TIG). Not really NECESSARY, but you'd be stunned at how many of the BASIC techniques recur in every kind of welding.
Really, it's just getting used to whatever tool you decide on. They allllllllll make a little pool of melted material, and add just enough to make a bead. Even Plastic welding is pretty simple, once you get a good method worked out. MOST important is being smooth and controlled in your movements which is pretty much an exclusive product of PRACTICE!!

Yaa me dad is also 'old-school' & he's from where ive learnt the most from and the methods once used way-back-then are in pretty-much EVERYTHING we do nowadays & the new methods have either not changed at-all, of are only very slightly different to how they were once done!

This is also why i like to learn the olden-ways 1st !!!

After getting my workshop together (Flat-Packed-Shed {LARGE!} in the garden, lol ) i do intend my next step to be to get hold of a welding setup but 1st things 1st, its goingt o take a few months to put it up!!!

Once again, thank you for the advice, it make the whole point & process of welding look so much less daunting for a simpleton like me !!!

Another method i would suggest is that:
1- put 2 spools of the required wire on a dowel and fix that dowel to some kind of rigid support (a vice will do.)
2- In front of it add another dowel to act as a seperator. then
3- route the wires around the standalone dowel, and twist it a few times.
4- fix this twisted wire in the chuck of your Manual-drill (slow but more controlled), or power drill (way fast and uncontrollable), best way to use a drill with speed control.
5- Start the Motor, and as the wire twists around eachother, walk away slowly, pulling the drill along with you, to make room for more twisted wire.
6- Make the twisted wire as long as you want
7- cut the twisted wire leaving some twists still in front of the standalone dowel, so you can make some more twisted wires, of any length you please / need.
Adding a small sketch of the contraption.

That certianly would work, but, as you stated, pretty slow. I just generally have a policy of "Make more than you need", so I'm not trying to twist the 'perfect' amount of wire. And, with a Battery powered, adjustable speed drill, you can be pretty sure it won't 'get away' from you.

OMG ! WOW !!

You See... This is why i love this website ! People can all learn new things & FOR FREE !!!

That sketch is AWESOME !!! I know its only a basic thing but i have NO talent what-so-ever even in microsoft paint or ANY other PC drawing software!!!! lol x2 !!!!

As they always say, "Simple, Yet Effective" !!!

Once again i am truly in your debt for learning something new chaitanya.vedak !!! A Great many humble thanks !!!

I can see myself employing this very tactic with MKII of the suspension arms !!!

You help me, Me help You... It's a Sweet Vicious Circle.. Enjoy it. :D

OoooOooooo NICE TRICK !!!

Now thats going to to happen in MarkII of me suspension arms !!!


Many many thanks for the praise too, its extremely appreciated !!!


pyrogreasemonkey (author)2012-03-18

cool stuff! i have been thinking of making parts to sell on ebay using a very similar process, but using my metalworking furnace to cast aluminum in sand molds. thinking of selling them for about 10 dollars, most of the aluminum rc parts are 20 so guess who's gonna be on back order!. all i need is a belt sander for finishing and a drill press to accurately drill the holes, i have been into metal casting for a while so already got the equipment. it is surprizingly easy to get started in. many instructables on it. anyway, what parts for what model truck do ya think is the most popular? i haven't been into the rc stuff for a while, it got boring (bought a dirt bike). the wire reinforcement is a great idea, might want to try many layers of thin rod, like 1/16 so that it is much more rigid, one wire only helps after the plastic is cracked.

love the username @ pyrogreasemonkey !!!!!!! lol x 2 !!


     I WANT ONE TOO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Please please pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease would it be possible you could email me some good reading pages from the internet so i too can get started in this as easily as you have ??? ALTHOUGH, it WILL take me YEARS to acquire what i need in regards to tools and special equipment because IM SO DAMN POOR !!!!!

So you'll never have to ever worry about competition from me, lol !!!!

Anyhoo, if your going to be making solid Ali parts for RC cars (WHICH I THINK IS THE BEST IDEA SINCE-SLICED-BREAD !!!!!) it would be a really good idea to investigate what ZorroAMG said in one of the below comments, here's just a quick Quote:

"ZorroAMG says:
This is a fantastic instructable for making replacement parts but I offer an educated caution as an avid ex rc racer and builder:

Those parts that break "easily" on impact are designed to take certain force and remain in one piece but are ALSO designed to break at higher forces. The reason is to protect other key parts and chassis components/mounting points."

So you see, if you will indeed be making these parts in solid Ali, which ALSO if your going to SEVERELY UNDERCUT the market ALREADY selling those type of parts (AGAIN - This is a TACTIC I MYSELF WOULD EMPLOY - DO NOT GET GREEDY & YOU WILL SELL MORE, ISN'T IT !!!)
But... You would need to do some Research & Development INTO ALL the parts that BREAK easily and KEEP following the Breaks ALL THE WAY up the chain and replace all those parts that break with solid Ali parts, but in some KEY areas, parts simply cannot be made out of ANY metal....

One Such Example of this is the SERVO-SAVER column (assembly bits that are plastic) because this VITAL part does exactly what its name suggests.... When HIGH-SPEED IMPACTS Occur, this part stops the FORCE-OF-IMPACT from reaching the very important SERVO, and in some professional RC Cars, those Servos are very expensive..

MY entire RC Setup was picked up STUPIDLY cheap (EVERYTHING NEEDED under £200 Incl. FUEL + Starter Kit & Spare Parts, Clutch, Glo-Plugs etc!) !!!

Sorry about the extended speech from me, but if your serious about supplying the RC Community with Solid Ali Parts, i think you should seriously & carefully consider & research all the points above!

I really hope you do make these parts because I WILL DEFINITELY BUY FROM YOU at your prices and as long as they are alway as low as your business direction allows, you WILL ALWAYS OUT-SELL the HUGE corporations BECAUSE OF ONE SIMPLE FACT.....

"As me mama always says, if your gonna sell lots of cakes at a very low low price, you will not only sell more, but you will HAVE EVERYONE referring you & so MORE people will buy From YOU"

!! Also please keep me informed on your parts adventures, i could even help you sell your parts here in the UK !!!! (When your business can ship oversea's !!!!)

Have fun & remember, lol, Safety 1st !!!! (Duh, as if you didnt already know that, lol x 2 !!!)

got to it's the best metalcasting forum, just use the search tool a lot because we get annoyed by noobs that ask questions they could answer by just using the search tool. also, get david gingery's metalcasting books. the first one is about building the furnace, the rest are projects to do with it. its on piratebay. and on is anon's foundry tutorial. read it like 20x, its full of good info.

OoooooOOoooooo - Shiny !!!

Nice one for the point in the right direction pyrogreasemonkey !!! Very Most-Appreciated !!!

And yaa, no worries about silly noob questions as ive got a terrible energy-drink problem so my research skills are far better than just plain exemplary, lol, its like Turbo-Charged-Researching, lol x2 !
(SERIOUS CAFFIENE PROBLEM, lol, it was meant to be used as an alcohol substitute, but NOW i'm hooked on Energy Drinks INSTEAD _FFS !!! lol x2 !)
If there isnt a forum topic about a hair-brained idea or question ive got - thats the only time i ask a question !

Just seen a quick flick through david gingery's metalcasting lathe !!! just what my workshop also needs !!!

Thats extremely awesome stuff, i know that ive been wanting to get into that for a great many years, probably next year will see a furnace in my back garden and i'll be using this year to do all the research i can on it !!!

Once again, i humbly thank you for the massively great point in the right direction!

Also keep me informed if you ever fancy selling to the uk, could be very interested in ali-parts for RC Cars !!!

its more about experience than just reading up. ive only been doing this for 9 months, but i could have gotten a nice big furnace a long time ago if i had the time. my curent furnace is falling apart because i didnt use a real refractory, i just used portland cement which is what normal cement is made of. it isnt good for a furance, but i had to finish it quick to make xmas presents. now it is falling apart. you need to make something using maybe furance cement from a hardware store just to get some experience melting aluminum. look for an instructable about backyard foundry to get you started. i have only spent maybe $150 total on all my foundry setup. could have gotten many of those things for free if i looked hard. what make/model is your rc car? i have a traxxas nitro rustler, so that will be the first set of ali parts i make. the one skill ya need to be good at metal casting is garbage picking. that is how you get free metal. window frames, pipes, patio furniture, lawn chairs, rain gutter tubes, you name it. soda cans arent very good because of all the paint, but they do work. also if u plan to use an oil burner in the future, get oil from mexican restraunts and automotive places that do oil changes

OMG - About $150 !!!

Thanks a million (or a million Thanks, lol !) for the right places to find stuff from too, i am sooooooo grateful !!!

At the time-being, im severely mobility-impaired and cannot walk without a pair of crutches and still cant even get more than a few paces without needing to stil down, so i'm really going to be missing out on the landfill or garbage picking! Hopefully next year should see me back on my feet! (fingers crossed!) Already been like this for a whole 2 years so not going to hold me breath!

Anyhoo, i will be getting myself a furnace to smelt ali as ive always had a need to make parts out of METAL and it costs so DAMN MUCH here in the UK (This place aint called "Rip-Off-Britain" for nothing!) to buy solid reliable metal parts for whatever i tinker-with....

Also, in time, i WILL be making Iron-Man's suit - Fully Mechanized ! But as im so poor, it will be much much larger than the conservative looking suit that he refined because i wont have access to micro miniature powerful electronics/motors (with all his billions of $ !) so my 1st one will look more like his 1st-crude attempt and it will be primarily be used to lift and help build bigger things, an industrial scale version! Well thats enough of my day-dreaming for the moment, lets get back to the matter at hand, lol !

Cheers also for what material the furnace needs to be properly made out of, will help greatly in collecting everything needed! Also the mexican resturant & automotive places are a MASSIVE thanks too, i think if i do get into ali-smelting, that it will be from oil as charcoal would be too much of a hassle for my legs, one or three trips to get the oil, but i fear it would be a great many trips for the charcoal !!!

My Nitro Car.... Hmmmmm... It is a real piece of CHEAP CR*P !
Its SO obscure & UN-HEARD-OF, that its really difficult to get the parts for it, so this is why i have started to make my own !!!

Here is the make & model of my SH*T Nitro Buggy !!!

Its got the smallest Nitro Engine in the industry and i got the Car, Radio Gear, Fuel, Few Spares & Starter Kit all for under £120 ($190.37 ish) from a company that just wanted to get-rid of their stock, so as it was so cheap - me and a friend decided to get one each !

Otherwise the wonderful world of RC Cars would still have been a dream !

Your Traxxas Rustler LOOKS LIKE A MONSTER !!!! OMG !!! Also with being made from Traxxas, its a well-organised company and they do supply the "best of the best" when it comes to owning QUALITY RC Vehicles !!

I really want the Traxxas Slayer 2 !!!!
BUT again, HERE in the UKits going for OVER £450 ($715 ish) and these are the prices that just turn my temper upto the "Volcano-Heat" setting ! lol

You folks really have a great life in the USA, i wish i was born there !!!
But us humble Brit's gotta make-do with the stuff we got over here, lol !!

Also the hair-dryer tactic is truly AWESOME !!!

Nicely Done !!!

the first furnace i made was a coffee can foundry, u can use paint cans too. it burns charcoal and a hair dryer to push air under the coals and make it hotter

chaitanya.vedak (author)2012-03-21

You LOL a Lot, and i Like that a Lot... That Liquid Rubber seems to be a good shock absorbing material in itself..

Yaa, I'm always a happy - go - lucky kinda Guy ! So always laughing out loud !!!

Not much bothers me and when something does go terribly wrong, well, there two things that can happen...

1. Get totally stressed - This will Spoil my day !
2. Deal With the problem with a cool-head !

As i very rarely have spoiled days because i always opt for the 2nd choice above, a like a life with plenty of laughter in it !

(Although when i do lose me temper, i scare the damn hell out-of even myself, so, thats probably the main reason for all the LOL's !)

lol... !

offtherails2010 (author)2012-03-21

hahahahaaa ! You know what, i hadn't even noticed !!!

Gosh, there must be hundreds of "lol"'s all-over the place in my 5 first instructables!!!

Quite happy with your comments, they "Made-My-Day" !!!!

lol x 2 !


chaitanya.vedak (author)2012-03-21

This is an Awesome bit of work.. very good to make small parts inexpensively.. now all i need to do is find out where i can get this magical "Polymorph" in India, and especially at a location neaar my house. but i will be bookmarking this instructable for further reference.
Thanks a tonne offtherails2010... ;D

You are Most-Welcome chaitanya.vedak !!!

I am extremely humbled by the amount of people that offer a simple thank-you, i honestly didn't think that my work would have caught the attention of so many!

I'm really grateful for your thanks & Hugely-Appreciate it !

Just to make things a little easier for your search for Polymorph in India, check out my post (should be in the comments of this instructable, 1st page, i think, !) dated with the time-stamp:

Mar 19, 2012. 3:45 AM

Because i have included ALL my research pages for Polymorph - Including its REAL-NAME !!!

hope that helps further & again, many, Many Thanks again for the praise!

mallan (author)2012-03-20

Do a search for oogoo here on instructables. basically it's corn starch and silicone that hardens into a rubber that can be used for all sorts of things but one application is making molds. Might be cheaper than the rubber stuff you used.

offtherails2010 (author)mallan2012-03-21

Many many Thanks mallen !!!!!

Typically, "One" ALWAYS finds the easier way to do something ALWAYS when he/she has done whatever they've done THE HARD-WAY !!!!

Many thanks for the point in the great direction but alas as soon as i had published this instructable, someone kindly pointed me there!

But never-the-less i am still very grateful you took the time to give me a heads-up !

Many thanks once again !!!


jad51 (author)2012-03-18

Awesome work you are legendary, now get back to FPS stat

offtherails2010 (author)jad512012-03-19

!!! DUDE !!!

Many many thanks for the Ultimately AWESOME Comment !!!!

Made My Day !!!

& yes, i'm really ASHAMED to call myself a HARDCORE GAMER for the simple FACT i have NOT played ANY FPS games THIS YEAR so far... !!!!!

Once again, I am truly grateful for the comment !!!! Many thanks !!!

jad51 (author)offtherails20102012-03-20

I am currently playing BF3 here in New Zealand, as luck would have it I just brought myself a second hand FTX Vantage (got it today), and had not even flattened my first battery before I broke the front suspension arm on a piece of concrete on my drive way :( It is alot faster than my old RC Tamiya mini I had several years ago!!! I have since found out the only place I seem to be able to get parts is Ebay UK Doh. Looks like I will be using this faster than I thought! Should not have temped fate yesterday.

offtherails2010 (author)jad512012-03-20

OoooooOooooo - Shiny !!!

Latest on Battlefield 3 a ?!? !!! Nice Graphics on that one! Cant wait to get meself a copy !!! Unfortunately for me (& tons more peeps!!!) whenever a new game comes out (PC Platform for me!) ive ALWAYS gotta wait ANOTHER 6 to 9 MONTHS AFTER its out because, well, im NOT paying A STUPID COST for a brand new game,

for example, here in the UK, Borderlands (MY ALL TIME FAV ATM!!!!!!!) WAS £45 ($87.33 NZD) when it first came out --- AND that was ON ITS OWN - NO EXPANSION PACKS, After ONLY 7 Months it went down to £15 ($29.11 NZD) and came with ALL FOUR Expansion Packs !!!!!!!

Its ALL DAYLIGHT-ROBBERY with everything we buy nowadays (Also, BTW, Borderlands 2 is out in April but again, I wont be able to afford it until at the END of this YEAR !!! ffs !)

Thats Why i'm always fighting for the MOST-CHEAPEST way to get what we need for our hobbies & also cut our dependancies on the HUGE Corporations that are making the poor poorer & the Rich Richer !

As ALWAYS, Ive totally Veered-off subject, i also made a "SHOCK-ABSORBER" for HIGH-IMPACT crashes/smashes to the Front-End of my buggy, i'll upload pictures of it any time in the next 3 or 4 hours, basically, all it is, is a Tough-ish block of Polystyrene that ive dipped into Liquid Rubber, but not my favorite Plasti-Dip, its the type of Liquid Rubber thats meant to STOP Leaks in Roofing (I cant believe im about to say this, BUT, lol, ITS STRONGER THAN PLASTI-DIP !!!)

I Coated it in this Roofing-Grade Liquid Rubber and applied about 4 THICK coats, & when finally dry, i just cable-tied it to the front plastic bumber & its SAVED MY BACON MANY TIMES already !!!

will include a how-to at the end of this instructable!

Again, MAJOR thanks for the comments, i truly appreciate them !!!

kirkb150 (author)2012-03-18

This kind of part would be pretty easy to replicate with silicone mold and one of their urethane plastic casting material, like the "Task" series. The products from Smooth-On are very user friendly.

offtherails2010 (author)kirkb1502012-03-18

Nice one for the direction towards smooth-on, but at 1st glance POLYMORPH is still the winner with the HIGHEST TENSILE STRENGTH !!!!!!

Plus to chuck in some carbon fibre would make it EVEN stronger !!!

Task 9 has the strongest tensile strength on that website and....

Task 9
7800 psi = 548.394 kg per cm2

580 kg per cm2 (ON ITS OWN !!!)

Primarily our RC suspension arms (A-Arms, lol) are the 1st things to break due to high speed impact damage so the better the tensile strength of the material, the better the part !!!

(sorry, i nit-pick when it comes to statistics of materials !)

*** Plus Reinforcement With Carbon Fiber *** would bump that figure up considerably !!!

again, Many thanks for the website !!!

kirkb150 (author)offtherails20102012-03-18

I cant speak for the other products, but I can say definitively that Smooth-On is cost effective (trial kits containing ~2lbs of material in the $25to $30 range). I will concede that I am not educated about the strengths, but I can't Google POLYMORPH and find any data sheet in English. Smooth-On is based in Pennsylvania made by people I have met. They have documented the products use and safety (something I can't personally speak to on the other product). Please post a link to the products spec and MSDS so I can read about it.

offtherails2010 (author)kirkb1502012-03-19

Hi & thanks for the pricing heads-up kirkb150 !!!

Your right, is was flaming-MURDER to get hold of NIT-PICKING details for POLYMORPH but i LOVE DETAILS so i sometimes go OTT on my research and sometimes it does take me months to acquire it !!!

Here's what ive found so far on Polymorph:

- Real Name: Polycaprolactone (PCL)

- Google Search Results Showing 580kg per cm2 Tensile Strength (In text of 1st search item)

TOMPS Technical Data Sheet
- TOMPS Safety Data Sheet

So far thats all the info i have researched over the last 6 months but i haven't given up with it yet because i'm a kind of person that isn't going to be truly HAPPY until i have ALL of that info but from one-source-page or ONE data-sheet !!!!

Hope that helps !

kirkb150 (author)offtherails20102012-03-19

Interesting stuff that. Thanks for the info.

offtherails2010 (author)kirkb1502012-03-19

You are more than welcome, ask & you shall receive lol !


offtherails2010 (author)kirkb1502012-03-19

sorry, forgot to mention that the TOMPS data sheets were taken from HERE !!!

offtherails2010 (author)kirkb1502012-03-18

Plus i couldn't find ANY prices for anything on the smooth-on website, which screams EXPENSIVE for us very very VERY poor, poor, POOR folks !!!!

Spokehedz (author)2012-03-19

Now just imagine that if someone would model the part on Thingiverse that people could print these parts out on their FDM printers and they could save even more money.


Actually..... Funny You Should Say That....

Because when i get myself a 3D Printer, Sometime this year, probably the end, lol....

I will be putting EVERY SINGLE PLASTIC PART that is needed to make AN RC CAR/BUGGY and include a list of other hardware needed to FULLY PRINT ALL PLASTIC PARTS needed to make an RC CAR/BUGGY (With slight modifications/augmentaions/improvements/changes to EACH & EVERY part so as to NOT infringe any copyright laws, lol) !!!! onto!


I will continue to do things the "Hard-Way" for the benefit of everyone that CANT AFFORD a 3D Printer - MAINLY because i cannot afford one yet and 3D Printers for the Home-Desktop are not as "Common" as a color-printer yet, and until they ARE, These mold-making methods will have to serve us very very poor folk !!!!

& Great comment because if we all started PRINTING OUR OWN RC CARS, the price for RTR (Ready-To-Race) THE COST of RC Cars will HAVE-TO go considerably down from THE ABSURDLY, ANNOYINGLY, OFFENSIVELY & THEFT-DRIVEN PRICES OF UPTO £550 ($875 ish) - right down to "Affordable Prices" FOR EVERYONE !!!

sturmey (author)2012-03-18

I knew a guy that did something similar, but he used fibreglass resin from the body shop section of your local autoparts store. (I saw it at walmart the other day too)

He would mix up the resin and hardener, and occasionally use spray paint to color it. Then while it was still liquid, he would pour it into the mold and usually an hour later it would be set enough to take out. Then he could re-use the mold to make another part.

About This Instructable




Bio: Always modifying something ! Some Simple Rules.. * if you havent taken it apart - you DONT truly own it ! * Tinkering is a way of Life :) * Do what ... More »
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