Hi Folks!
As im STILL waiting for parts to arrive for my very 1st instructable, so here's another project to carry on with!
ive been out once a month ish racing my little 1/10th RC Nitro Buggy!
Slight History:
My Racing Buddy comes with me whenever he can and a few weeks ago his buggy's front suspension arm took a serious knock and broke off a major part where it connects to the rest of the car, ON A HINGE section!!!
Anyhoo, suffice to say that im a Jedi Master in the Art of Bodging, lol, and have a range of plastic glues, one of which cures very strong and becomes one with the part its fixed to & i also add extra of this stuff so that i can later shave it off so it further reinforces the repaired part...
Well, only a week later and Homer's gone and killed my beautiful repair job and not only that, i finally got my buggy working properly after a new clutch install and i'd had a MOJOR accident and totally had written-off a few parts on the front of MY car! The steering servo-saver had totally snapped-off from the servo-saver column (the bit that screws onto the servo linkage...) and the right side suspension arm had snapped in two places (See pic below) that meant i couldn't 'Bodge' a quick repair in the field and had to pack up everything only after a few hours of being out! (It was bloody-FREEEEEEEEZING by this point so wernt that fussed bout going home, lol)!
So I'd got back onto my fav RC Shopping Website, Ebay, lol, and STILL, even tho the parts were cheaper than the specialist shops, it was beginning to get expensive for just a poor mans hobby (Im very poor, lol) so i decided that im never again going to buy another plastic replaceable part for our buggies ever again, if i could help it...
So i went about dismantling my buggy and removed the irreparably damaged parts and started to make a mold for the front suspension arm.... Here's what i used and the costs, also NOTE that anything ive bought in BULK, will obviously last me ages and further aid me in the creation of different molds of a range of RC Car Parts!
--- ALWAYS REMEMBER.... WHATEVER YOU DO... SAFETY FIRST !!! ---
Ingredients:
Plasti Dip Clear (750ml) (Bulk Order)
Polymorph (Bulk Order)
Single Core Wire 1/0.6mm (Bulk Order) {For Reinforcing Parts!}
Petroleum Jelly (Tiny Tin !)
Tools:
Needle Nose Pliers (Short)
Heavy Duty Pliers (If and/or needed at-all !)
Plastic Glue Spreader (for even-coating of the parts)
Universal Vice (You dont have to use this but just buy it damn-it, its so cheap & it'll pay for itself each time you use it!)
Sharpie Marker Pen
METAL Ruler
Wire Strippers
Wire Cutters
Mini Precision Screwdriver
FlameLESS Gas Torch (Optional)
Dremel - with METAL drill bits
Small Disposable Plastic Tray (I used the plastic packaging that came with a new 13-port USB Powered Hub!)
Small Cut out piece of cardboard...
- SAFETY EQUIPMENT i USED-
EYE Safety Goggles
HEAT-Resistant Gloves (Optional - SO TAKE CARE WITH HOT THINGS)
Cutting Mat
Safety Knife
HEAT-RESISTANT GLASS DISH (Pyrex Brand if you can help-it !)
Slash-Resistant-GLOVES (I used-to work in the Security-Industry so already had these) {Optional - SO TAKE CARE}
As im STILL waiting for parts to arrive for my very 1st instructable, so here's another project to carry on with!
ive been out once a month ish racing my little 1/10th RC Nitro Buggy!
Slight History:
My Racing Buddy comes with me whenever he can and a few weeks ago his buggy's front suspension arm took a serious knock and broke off a major part where it connects to the rest of the car, ON A HINGE section!!!
Anyhoo, suffice to say that im a Jedi Master in the Art of Bodging, lol, and have a range of plastic glues, one of which cures very strong and becomes one with the part its fixed to & i also add extra of this stuff so that i can later shave it off so it further reinforces the repaired part...
Well, only a week later and Homer's gone and killed my beautiful repair job and not only that, i finally got my buggy working properly after a new clutch install and i'd had a MOJOR accident and totally had written-off a few parts on the front of MY car! The steering servo-saver had totally snapped-off from the servo-saver column (the bit that screws onto the servo linkage...) and the right side suspension arm had snapped in two places (See pic below) that meant i couldn't 'Bodge' a quick repair in the field and had to pack up everything only after a few hours of being out! (It was bloody-FREEEEEEEEZING by this point so wernt that fussed bout going home, lol)!
So I'd got back onto my fav RC Shopping Website, Ebay, lol, and STILL, even tho the parts were cheaper than the specialist shops, it was beginning to get expensive for just a poor mans hobby (Im very poor, lol) so i decided that im never again going to buy another plastic replaceable part for our buggies ever again, if i could help it...
So i went about dismantling my buggy and removed the irreparably damaged parts and started to make a mold for the front suspension arm.... Here's what i used and the costs, also NOTE that anything ive bought in BULK, will obviously last me ages and further aid me in the creation of different molds of a range of RC Car Parts!
--- ALWAYS REMEMBER.... WHATEVER YOU DO... SAFETY FIRST !!! ---
Ingredients:
Plasti Dip Clear (750ml) (Bulk Order)
Polymorph (Bulk Order)
Single Core Wire 1/0.6mm (Bulk Order) {For Reinforcing Parts!}
Petroleum Jelly (Tiny Tin !)
Tools:
Needle Nose Pliers (Short)
Heavy Duty Pliers (If and/or needed at-all !)
Plastic Glue Spreader (for even-coating of the parts)
Universal Vice (You dont have to use this but just buy it damn-it, its so cheap & it'll pay for itself each time you use it!)
Sharpie Marker Pen
METAL Ruler
Wire Strippers
Wire Cutters
Mini Precision Screwdriver
FlameLESS Gas Torch (Optional)
Dremel - with METAL drill bits
Small Disposable Plastic Tray (I used the plastic packaging that came with a new 13-port USB Powered Hub!)
Small Cut out piece of cardboard...
- SAFETY EQUIPMENT i USED-
EYE Safety Goggles
HEAT-Resistant Gloves (Optional - SO TAKE CARE WITH HOT THINGS)
Cutting Mat
Safety Knife
HEAT-RESISTANT GLASS DISH (Pyrex Brand if you can help-it !)
Slash-Resistant-GLOVES (I used-to work in the Security-Industry so already had these) {Optional - SO TAKE CARE}
-WARNINGS-
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY CAUSED BY YOU FOR NOT SAFELY CARRYING OUT THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT CAME WITH YOUR POLYMORPH OR AS A RESULT OF POOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS NOT TAKEN BY YOU WITH THE USE OF BOILING WATER OR ANYTHING TO DO WITH THIS INSTRUCTABLE - PLEASE HAVE AN ADULT SUPERVISING YOU IF UNDERAGE AND PLEASE USE EXTRA COMMON-SENSE, AS AND WHEN NEEDED....
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY CAUSED BY YOU FOR NOT SAFELY CARRYING OUT THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT CAME WITH YOUR POLYMORPH OR AS A RESULT OF POOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS NOT TAKEN BY YOU WITH THE USE OF BOILING WATER OR ANYTHING TO DO WITH THIS INSTRUCTABLE - PLEASE HAVE AN ADULT SUPERVISING YOU IF UNDERAGE AND PLEASE USE EXTRA COMMON-SENSE, AS AND WHEN NEEDED....
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Signing UpStep 1: 1st - Make the Mould for your RC Component (or whatever you need Duplicated!)
What you need to do here is 1st of all is to cut the plastic tray so that its a good size that can be easily handled as i had just used the plastic packaging from a new 13-Port USB Powered-Hub, and when you have found a suitable plastic container that you dont mind ruining:
- Get the petroleum jelly and coat the inside of the Plastic Tray that we are going to use to temporarily hold our mould... Not so much that its easy to see that you've coated it, just enough to make our job later on of removing the rubber mould a heck of a lot easier!
- Next, Scoop out the Plasti-Dip, i used a top from a deodorant can and a pair of needle nose pliers to scoop it out of the tin... (See pic!) And just slightly fill the base of the plastic tray so you have, say, a 5mm layer of liquid rubber in the base of the tray...
- I waited about 2 hours until this 1st layer was only-partially cured, DO NOT let this 1st layer completely dry of the next layers WONT stick...
NOTE: Also when you leave the tray to part-cure (DRY), make DOUBLY-sure that the surface is totally LEVEL or as close to level as you can get - You might want to use a spirit level and measure horizontally & vertically that the surface is totally flat because when and as the layers are drying, you do not want the liquid rubber to cure at an angle so that it all collects in one corner!
- Repeat the above step so that you add another 5mm layer of Plasti-Dip liquid rubber so that you will now have a good generous 10mm/ish of liquid rubber in the base of the tray....Wait another 1-2 hours till its Partially-Cured...
- Get the petroleum jelly and coat the inside of the Plastic Tray that we are going to use to temporarily hold our mould... Not so much that its easy to see that you've coated it, just enough to make our job later on of removing the rubber mould a heck of a lot easier!
- Next, Scoop out the Plasti-Dip, i used a top from a deodorant can and a pair of needle nose pliers to scoop it out of the tin... (See pic!) And just slightly fill the base of the plastic tray so you have, say, a 5mm layer of liquid rubber in the base of the tray...
- I waited about 2 hours until this 1st layer was only-partially cured, DO NOT let this 1st layer completely dry of the next layers WONT stick...
NOTE: Also when you leave the tray to part-cure (DRY), make DOUBLY-sure that the surface is totally LEVEL or as close to level as you can get - You might want to use a spirit level and measure horizontally & vertically that the surface is totally flat because when and as the layers are drying, you do not want the liquid rubber to cure at an angle so that it all collects in one corner!
- Repeat the above step so that you add another 5mm layer of Plasti-Dip liquid rubber so that you will now have a good generous 10mm/ish of liquid rubber in the base of the tray....Wait another 1-2 hours till its Partially-Cured...
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Your more-than-welcome !!
Im really happy that this Guide has helped you out, from the most humble of people, i highly appreciate your great words and i hope to make many more in the near future !
Why pay Extortionate prices for parts when we have the power to make them ourselves at a fraction of the cost ! lol !
Happy Motoring !!!
;-)
i am so happy others have this chance to make replacement parts on the cheap too without forking out the stupidly high prices the 'RC' world has set for, lets face it, bits of plastic lol !
when it starts costing £10 (in the UK here lol !) for a pair of A-Arms then this doesnt stay a poor-mans hobby anymore lol x 2 !!
thanks again for the awesome comment !!!
;-)
You can get as much or as little twist in your wire as you want, and (most importantly) the twist will be uniform the full length of your wire (averages out naturally). I've done this with Aluminum Welding wire and it works great. VERY stiff, and you COULD even weld it together.
1- put 2 spools of the required wire on a dowel and fix that dowel to some kind of rigid support (a vice will do.)
2- In front of it add another dowel to act as a seperator. then
3- route the wires around the standalone dowel, and twist it a few times.
4- fix this twisted wire in the chuck of your Manual-drill (slow but more controlled), or power drill (way fast and uncontrollable), best way to use a drill with speed control.
5- Start the Motor, and as the wire twists around eachother, walk away slowly, pulling the drill along with you, to make room for more twisted wire.
6- Make the twisted wire as long as you want
7- cut the twisted wire leaving some twists still in front of the standalone dowel, so you can make some more twisted wires, of any length you please / need.
Adding a small sketch of the contraption.
You See... This is why i love this website ! People can all learn new things & FOR FREE !!!
That sketch is AWESOME !!! I know its only a basic thing but i have NO talent what-so-ever even in microsoft paint or ANY other PC drawing software!!!! lol x2 !!!!
As they always say, "Simple, Yet Effective" !!!
Once again i am truly in your debt for learning something new chaitanya.vedak !!! A Great many humble thanks !!!
I can see myself employing this very tactic with MKII of the suspension arms !!!
Because i really really REALLY want a welding tool of some kind, i haven't the money at all to buy one but what would be a really cheap starter welding kit i could buy, if you do weld & also if you happen to know of a welding kit ala-shoe-string, lol
Also its just food for thought for the future, but im always confused-to-hell & back when it comes to deciding whether or not to get a MIG, TIG or ARC welder !!!
Anyhoo, A Major thanks again for your comments !!!
:-)
Really, it's just getting used to whatever tool you decide on. They allllllllll make a little pool of melted material, and add just enough to make a bead. Even Plastic welding is pretty simple, once you get a good method worked out. MOST important is being smooth and controlled in your movements which is pretty much an exclusive product of PRACTICE!!
This is also why i like to learn the olden-ways 1st !!!
After getting my workshop together (Flat-Packed-Shed {LARGE!} in the garden, lol ) i do intend my next step to be to get hold of a welding setup but 1st things 1st, its goingt o take a few months to put it up!!!
Once again, thank you for the advice, it make the whole point & process of welding look so much less daunting for a simpleton like me !!!
Now thats going to to happen in MarkII of me suspension arms !!!
TOP-DUDE !!
Many many thanks for the praise too, its extremely appreciated !!!
:-)
Not much bothers me and when something does go terribly wrong, well, there two things that can happen...
1. Get totally stressed - This will Spoil my day !
2. Deal With the problem with a cool-head !
As i very rarely have spoiled days because i always opt for the 2nd choice above, a like a life with plenty of laughter in it !
(Although when i do lose me temper, i scare the damn hell out-of even myself, so, thats probably the main reason for all the LOL's !)
lol... !
Gosh, there must be hundreds of "lol"'s all-over the place in my 5 first instructables!!!
Quite happy with your comments, they "Made-My-Day" !!!!
lol x 2 !
;-)
Thanks a tonne offtherails2010... ;D
I am extremely humbled by the amount of people that offer a simple thank-you, i honestly didn't think that my work would have caught the attention of so many!
I'm really grateful for your thanks & Hugely-Appreciate it !
Just to make things a little easier for your search for Polymorph in India, check out my post (should be in the comments of this instructable, 1st page, i think, !) dated with the time-stamp:
Mar 19, 2012. 3:45 AM
Because i have included ALL my research pages for Polymorph - Including its REAL-NAME !!!
hope that helps further & again, many, Many Thanks again for the praise!
& OMFG !!! YOU HAVE A METALWORKING FURNACE !!!!! ? !!!!!
I WANT ONE TOO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Please please pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease would it be possible you could email me some good reading pages from the internet so i too can get started in this as easily as you have ??? ALTHOUGH, it WILL take me YEARS to acquire what i need in regards to tools and special equipment because IM SO DAMN POOR !!!!!
So you'll never have to ever worry about competition from me, lol !!!!
Anyhoo, if your going to be making solid Ali parts for RC cars (WHICH I THINK IS THE BEST IDEA SINCE-SLICED-BREAD !!!!!) it would be a really good idea to investigate what ZorroAMG said in one of the below comments, here's just a quick Quote:
"ZorroAMG says:
This is a fantastic instructable for making replacement parts but I offer an educated caution as an avid ex rc racer and builder:
Those parts that break "easily" on impact are designed to take certain force and remain in one piece but are ALSO designed to break at higher forces. The reason is to protect other key parts and chassis components/mounting points."
So you see, if you will indeed be making these parts in solid Ali, which ALSO if your going to SEVERELY UNDERCUT the market ALREADY selling those type of parts (AGAIN - This is a TACTIC I MYSELF WOULD EMPLOY - DO NOT GET GREEDY & YOU WILL SELL MORE, ISN'T IT !!!)
But... You would need to do some Research & Development INTO ALL the parts that BREAK easily and KEEP following the Breaks ALL THE WAY up the chain and replace all those parts that break with solid Ali parts, but in some KEY areas, parts simply cannot be made out of ANY metal....
One Such Example of this is the SERVO-SAVER column (assembly bits that are plastic) because this VITAL part does exactly what its name suggests.... When HIGH-SPEED IMPACTS Occur, this part stops the FORCE-OF-IMPACT from reaching the very important SERVO, and in some professional RC Cars, those Servos are very expensive..
MY entire RC Setup was picked up STUPIDLY cheap (EVERYTHING NEEDED under £200 Incl. FUEL + Starter Kit & Spare Parts, Clutch, Glo-Plugs etc!) !!!
Sorry about the extended speech from me, but if your serious about supplying the RC Community with Solid Ali Parts, i think you should seriously & carefully consider & research all the points above!
I really hope you do make these parts because I WILL DEFINITELY BUY FROM YOU at your prices and as long as they are alway as low as your business direction allows, you WILL ALWAYS OUT-SELL the HUGE corporations BECAUSE OF ONE SIMPLE FACT.....
"As me mama always says, if your gonna sell lots of cakes at a very low low price, you will not only sell more, but you will HAVE EVERYONE referring you & so MORE people will buy From YOU"
!! Also please keep me informed on your parts adventures, i could even help you sell your parts here in the UK !!!! (When your business can ship oversea's !!!!)
Have fun & remember, lol, Safety 1st !!!! (Duh, as if you didnt already know that, lol x 2 !!!)
Nice one for the point in the right direction pyrogreasemonkey !!! Very Most-Appreciated !!!
And yaa, no worries about silly noob questions as ive got a terrible energy-drink problem so my research skills are far better than just plain exemplary, lol, its like Turbo-Charged-Researching, lol x2 !
(SERIOUS CAFFIENE PROBLEM, lol, it was meant to be used as an alcohol substitute, but NOW i'm hooked on Energy Drinks INSTEAD _FFS !!! lol x2 !)
If there isnt a forum topic about a hair-brained idea or question ive got - thats the only time i ask a question !
Just seen a quick flick through david gingery's metalcasting lathe !!! just what my workshop also needs !!!
Thats extremely awesome stuff, i know that ive been wanting to get into that for a great many years, probably next year will see a furnace in my back garden and i'll be using this year to do all the research i can on it !!!
Once again, i humbly thank you for the massively great point in the right direction!
Also keep me informed if you ever fancy selling to the uk, could be very interested in ali-parts for RC Cars !!!
Thats UNBELIEVABLY AWESOME !!!
Thanks a million (or a million Thanks, lol !) for the right places to find stuff from too, i am sooooooo grateful !!!
At the time-being, im severely mobility-impaired and cannot walk without a pair of crutches and still cant even get more than a few paces without needing to stil down, so i'm really going to be missing out on the landfill or garbage picking! Hopefully next year should see me back on my feet! (fingers crossed!) Already been like this for a whole 2 years so not going to hold me breath!
Anyhoo, i will be getting myself a furnace to smelt ali as ive always had a need to make parts out of METAL and it costs so DAMN MUCH here in the UK (This place aint called "Rip-Off-Britain" for nothing!) to buy solid reliable metal parts for whatever i tinker-with....
Also, in time, i WILL be making Iron-Man's suit - Fully Mechanized ! But as im so poor, it will be much much larger than the conservative looking suit that he refined because i wont have access to micro miniature powerful electronics/motors (with all his billions of $ !) so my 1st one will look more like his 1st-crude attempt and it will be primarily be used to lift and help build bigger things, an industrial scale version! Well thats enough of my day-dreaming for the moment, lets get back to the matter at hand, lol !
Cheers also for what material the furnace needs to be properly made out of, will help greatly in collecting everything needed! Also the mexican resturant & automotive places are a MASSIVE thanks too, i think if i do get into ali-smelting, that it will be from oil as charcoal would be too much of a hassle for my legs, one or three trips to get the oil, but i fear it would be a great many trips for the charcoal !!!
My Nitro Car.... Hmmmmm... It is a real piece of CHEAP CR*P !
Its SO obscure & UN-HEARD-OF, that its really difficult to get the parts for it, so this is why i have started to make my own !!!
Here is the make & model of my SH*T Nitro Buggy !!!
Its got the smallest Nitro Engine in the industry and i got the Car, Radio Gear, Fuel, Few Spares & Starter Kit all for under £120 ($190.37 ish) from a company that just wanted to get-rid of their stock, so as it was so cheap - me and a friend decided to get one each !
Otherwise the wonderful world of RC Cars would still have been a dream !
Your Traxxas Rustler LOOKS LIKE A MONSTER !!!! OMG !!! Also with being made from Traxxas, its a well-organised company and they do supply the "best of the best" when it comes to owning QUALITY RC Vehicles !!
I really want the Traxxas Slayer 2 !!!!
BUT again, HERE in the UK its going for OVER £450 ($715 ish) and these are the prices that just turn my temper upto the "Volcano-Heat" setting ! lol
You folks really have a great life in the USA, i wish i was born there !!!
But us humble Brit's gotta make-do with the stuff we got over here, lol !!
Also the hair-dryer tactic is truly AWESOME !!!
Nicely Done !!!
Typically, "One" ALWAYS finds the easier way to do something ALWAYS when he/she has done whatever they've done THE HARD-WAY !!!!
Many thanks for the point in the great direction but alas as soon as i had published this instructable, someone kindly pointed me there!
But never-the-less i am still very grateful you took the time to give me a heads-up !
Many thanks once again !!!
:-)
Many many thanks for the Ultimately AWESOME Comment !!!!
Made My Day !!!
& yes, i'm really ASHAMED to call myself a HARDCORE GAMER for the simple FACT i have NOT played ANY FPS games THIS YEAR so far... !!!!!
Once again, I am truly grateful for the comment !!!! Many thanks !!!
Latest on Battlefield 3 a ?!? !!! Nice Graphics on that one! Cant wait to get meself a copy !!! Unfortunately for me (& tons more peeps!!!) whenever a new game comes out (PC Platform for me!) ive ALWAYS gotta wait ANOTHER 6 to 9 MONTHS AFTER its out because, well, im NOT paying A STUPID COST for a brand new game,
for example, here in the UK, Borderlands (MY ALL TIME FAV ATM!!!!!!!) WAS £45 ($87.33 NZD) when it first came out --- AND that was ON ITS OWN - NO EXPANSION PACKS, After ONLY 7 Months it went down to £15 ($29.11 NZD) and came with ALL FOUR Expansion Packs !!!!!!!
Its ALL DAYLIGHT-ROBBERY with everything we buy nowadays (Also, BTW, Borderlands 2 is out in April but again, I wont be able to afford it until at the END of this YEAR !!! ffs !)
Thats Why i'm always fighting for the MOST-CHEAPEST way to get what we need for our hobbies & also cut our dependancies on the HUGE Corporations that are making the poor poorer & the Rich Richer !
As ALWAYS, Ive totally Veered-off subject, i also made a "SHOCK-ABSORBER" for HIGH-IMPACT crashes/smashes to the Front-End of my buggy, i'll upload pictures of it any time in the next 3 or 4 hours, basically, all it is, is a Tough-ish block of Polystyrene that ive dipped into Liquid Rubber, but not my favorite Plasti-Dip, its the type of Liquid Rubber thats meant to STOP Leaks in Roofing (I cant believe im about to say this, BUT, lol, ITS STRONGER THAN PLASTI-DIP !!!)
I Coated it in this Roofing-Grade Liquid Rubber and applied about 4 THICK coats, & when finally dry, i just cable-tied it to the front plastic bumber & its SAVED MY BACON MANY TIMES already !!!
will include a how-to at the end of this instructable!
Again, MAJOR thanks for the comments, i truly appreciate them !!!
Actually..... Funny You Should Say That....
Because when i get myself a 3D Printer, Sometime this year, probably the end, lol....
I will be putting EVERY SINGLE PLASTIC PART that is needed to make AN RC CAR/BUGGY and include a list of other hardware needed to FULLY PRINT ALL PLASTIC PARTS needed to make an RC CAR/BUGGY (With slight modifications/augmentaions/improvements/changes to EACH & EVERY part so as to NOT infringe any copyright laws, lol) !!!! onto thingiverse.com!
BUT.....
I will continue to do things the "Hard-Way" for the benefit of everyone that CANT AFFORD a 3D Printer - MAINLY because i cannot afford one yet and 3D Printers for the Home-Desktop are not as "Common" as a color-printer yet, and until they ARE, These mold-making methods will have to serve us very very poor folk !!!!
& Great comment because if we all started PRINTING OUR OWN RC CARS, the price for RTR (Ready-To-Race) THE COST of RC Cars will HAVE-TO go considerably down from THE ABSURDLY, ANNOYINGLY, OFFENSIVELY & THEFT-DRIVEN PRICES OF UPTO £550 ($875 ish) - right down to "Affordable Prices" FOR EVERYONE !!!
He would mix up the resin and hardener, and occasionally use spray paint to color it. Then while it was still liquid, he would pour it into the mold and usually an hour later it would be set enough to take out. Then he could re-use the mold to make another part.
EVERY bit of extra info helps me BIG-TIME for the creation of NEW parts & also molds !!!
Check out the post from wolfkeeper on the main page of this instructables' comments page, very very similar to what the guy you knew used to do !!
Once again, - i greatly appreciate your thoughts !!!
i'm really grateful for the comments !!!
;)