How To Make A Bladesmiths Forge

How To Make A Bladesmiths Forge
In this Instructable I will be explaining how to convert that old barbecue grill sitting in your yard next to all that junk into a furnace capable of heating up steel to forge long items such as knives,daggers,and small swords. Before we begin I would like to say I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by reading and/or following the instructions in this Instructable and working with hot items will always have associated risks. I would like to give credit to Tim Lively as I watched his movie called Knifemaking Unplugged and have based 1 of my refractory mixtures and the design of the forge off of what he uses. Great movie. I ordered it off of Amazon Unbox.
 
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Step 1Clean that crap up!

Clean that crap up!
First we will want remove all the internal components such as the rack and burners. Strip it down to the bare grill body. Remove all knobs and such so that all you have is the metal grill. Remove and throw out the handle, if it is plastic. Now we will use a blowtorch to heat up the grease that has accumulated from you chowing down. We will heat up a section of the grill with the torch and scrape the the heated section with a metal scraper. Now we will heat it again and this time we will wipe it down with a paper tower. Once your satisfied that it is nice and clean proceed to spray it with oven cleaner, just to make sure. Let this sit for a while and then spray off with a hose. Let the grill dry.
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81 comments
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Jan 3, 2012. 6:25 PMShadow13! says:
I know their would be more to disassemble, but could you do this with a broken gas grill instead of a charcoal one?
Jan 2, 2012. 6:40 AMkpurse says:
your livelyknives.com link doesn't work
May 12, 2011. 12:16 PMgreenfreak says:
hey, what might u be using to blow air into this thing?.... ive had many attempts at building a forge but none have worked because i cant get the right device! :/ and and all help will be thanked!
Dec 18, 2011. 8:19 PMharmsc12 says:
I've been reading up to build my own forge. Maybe you should look up clinkers.
Sep 10, 2011. 1:55 PMGator1070_ says:
i just used an old dirt devil vacume , it sucks from the front and "BLOWS" into the bag just rerig the bag to a hose and you got it......the olny thing is you really need a way to control the amount of air comming into the system, so what i did is got a dimmer switch , and a standerd plugin-outlet, hact up an extintion cord, and. the male end of the cord goes in the wall then, it goes into the outlet box through the dimmer switch and into the plugin.. now i have not built a forge yet still working on that, however i do use it as the air intake on my blast-furnace. works really well..!!!!!!!!!!
Nov 26, 2011. 2:32 PMMrcheese15 says:
do you think this would work with a propane bbq?
May 17, 2011. 5:26 AMskimmo says:
could you use a 44 gallon drum
Apr 25, 2011. 1:33 PMjetboy says:
wouldn't ashes (fine and free of debris) work ive used it before, i mixed it with water and let it set and it hardened up nicely
Jan 20, 2011. 3:34 PMTimmyMiller says:
why is it red???
Apr 16, 2010. 10:22 AMGksarmy says:
so, to get that straight, you could just line the inside with cat litter? instead of paying $100 a bag?
Dec 6, 2010. 11:57 AMDark Solar says:
Be cautious--not all cat litters are created equal. I had a very bad experience with cat litter involving evolution of chlorine gas upon heating. For safety's sake, heat-test a small sample first.
Sep 10, 2011. 2:02 PMGator1070_ says:
i've been pondering for a wile..... could u use dirt turnd into varry thin mud almost like slip so theres no dry spots and then boil it down to a really really thick mud and then use that?
Apr 16, 2010. 9:43 PMGksarmy says:
ahh, well, i really only want to make one thing with the forge: a straight edge knife/razor for hair shaving. do you think i'd be able to make it after just one attempt? or...not? haha
Apr 17, 2010. 8:47 AMGksarmy says:
I've got a bench grinder (don't remember the specs right now :/ ) and a dremel, do you think i'll be able to make it work? because i can get the railroad spike(s) i plan to use for free, and the forge i could make easily i believe. (the strop too i can make) and the sharpening stone(s) i believe my dad might have ATM would probably work...
do you think i could take it to a local sharpening store and have them put an edge on it? because even if they charge $20-$50 to put an edge on it, i still think that it would be at least equal or even better to/than what i could buy with the same amount of money.
Apr 18, 2010. 8:08 AMGksarmy says:
hmmm ok, sounds like i might have to put out a little more money than i was expecting. oh well. so: to clarify, i'll need a piece of: high carbon flat stock, and then forge it? or just use a hacksaw on it? (i'll be making my own strop btw haha)

sorry to repeat but i'll need to buy:
1 piece of high carbon flat stock STEEL? or IRON?
and then: FORGE it, or just CUT it out?

also, there's a barber that uses a straight razor on campus. he's been there for 50+ years. im betting he'd be able to hone a fairly dull razor.

btw, how much do you think a piece of stock will run me? (in USD)
Apr 18, 2010. 3:15 PMGksarmy says:
i think i'll just get a sheet of thin flat stock. I'll let you know how this all works out in a couple of weeks when i get back home to my tools! 

oh, and i saw on youtube a video of a guy making wedges from wood for a straight razor...do you know what those are? just curious haha
Apr 18, 2010. 6:54 PMGksarmy says:
Oh, i'll DEFINITELY be posting a picture :)

but, i might be using a differant forge :S sorry! i don't have this readily available...probably going to bury a piece of pipe in the ground and then drill holes in it, dig out the dirt around it, then line the sides around it with red brick.

;D
Apr 19, 2010. 10:15 AMGksarmy says:
haha, im just not wanting to pay the $100+ for the razor :P
i still LOVE the idea of smithing, but i just don't have the time/space to get into it as much as i want to right now :/
Jun 12, 2010. 5:59 PMbig trav says:
Honestly I am a bladesmith and there is no way you will get it at the first attempt it is not just about the grinding or forging to shape there is hardening and tempering and honestly with a bench grinder and a dremel you will be pushing pooh up hill right from the start. You would be better off buying a good quality straight razor. Usually these are ICE hardened and are made in such a fashion that they work!!!
Jun 14, 2010. 4:21 AMGksarmy says:
good thing this site's not about trying to do stuff yourself or anything....
Apr 19, 2010. 7:46 PMGksarmy says:
A good dovo razor introductory price is $99.99 :S
and i think im going to find a good picture of a razor online and cut it out, then spray paint that onto my piece of steel. then bench grind it down.
Aug 7, 2010. 3:20 PMajn142 says:
Scrap steel from saw blades or files is best. It's high carbon and made for cutting and what not. You would probably be best off using a file, grinding off the teeth as otherwise they will hold dirt and rust and other things that will keep you from properly forging it, then heating it up and drawing it out (making it thinner). If it is going to be heated up between marking and grinding it, then you will have to use soapstone and not spraypaint. This should be availiable at any welding supply store, and you can probably find one where you buy your metal or at the local hardware store.
Mar 23, 2009. 6:23 AMjtobako says:
A few practical hints : ) Have a way to cut down on the amount of air going in or you are going to go threw WAY to much charcoal and get way to hot. Don't restrict the outlet of the vacuum or you can burn out the motor (the air going threw the vacuum cools the motor-no air, no cooling and the motor overheats). A hairdryer has plenty (to much) of airflow for charcoal : ) Have a way to cut down on how much of the tuyere is open. Tim Lively uses mud to make the fire smaller-one of the few times you will need a fire that long is when you are hardening or tempering a blade. The rest of the time, you are wasting charcoal : ) I would recommend using the center area rather than the end so you can heat longer pieces in stages. Tim Lively may be able to work a knife up from one end, but that takes lots of practice : ) I've found a fire pit that deep can be difficult to use-I keep burning my hand trying to get iron in and out and readjusted in the tongs... How about a shot down inside the forge so we can see how much of the tuyere you left out of the refractory? Looks good. Try and post pics of first fire : )
Aug 7, 2010. 3:37 PMajn142 says:
If you have an air compressor you could use that as well, you would just use the 1.5 inch pipe for the whole length of rather than using it for part of the length with a piece of 2 inch at the end. You then put an air pressure regulator (usually are a thumbscrew like cap on top of a glass bulb) on, followed by a ball valve (emergency shut-off), and then a male quick connect to attatch your hose to. I'm hopefully building one in a week or 2, i'll post an ible with the details and how it works. Obviously yours is great if you don't have the fancier stuff, but if you do then you may as well use it. I'm fortunate enough to, so I will. Great ible by the way, it will make putting one of these together alot easier.
Apr 2, 2009. 9:15 PMwinman2000 says:
One quick thing; I have looked at a lot of tutorials, and have seen little in the way of what to blow air into the fire with. I am just getting into knifemaking, so anybody with good tips please pm me!
Apr 4, 2009. 10:20 AMwinman2000 says:
Here's one other question. Do I have to use charcoal or gas? Could I get by with plain old wood and newspaper?
Apr 12, 2009. 11:01 AMFirebang says:
Charcoal is essentially wood, but I'm sure it would take longer to get the heat that you'd need for proper forging. Charcoal bricks are not expensive, so you could just stop by any store like Home Hardware, Home Depot, Costco, and I'm sure grocery stores would have them as well. They may not, but it wouldn't make sense for them not to have it.
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