loading

Deleted


<p>hi joe</p><p>just found your instructable and thought awesome cant wait to read this roofing guide but its deleted. Do u think it willl be posted again as im trying to workmout how to build a roof for temporary accommodation. Im in the UK so good news travels far. Big respect for all the effort and time you put into the instructable its greatly appreciated and as to the negative stuff. Any fool can complain. </p>
<p>Thank you for pointing that out. I'll take down this instructable showing the mathematical one measure one mark way and get that book. Then I'll put up an instructable on how to carry a book around and use the appendix or something.</p><p>How would that be?</p>
<p>Did you even read this instructable??? There is no where that says to &quot;step&quot; anything off. Also, I describe how to take 1/2 the ridge off of the rafter measuring 90* off of the plumb cut. As for all the rest, seems like you want to be an instructable author yourself. So instead of salting other peoples instructables why don't you make your own, and show how to use your book or snap lines all over the floor and explain how much more efficient and precise those ways are compared to a one measure and one mark system such as the mathematical way my instructable shows...</p>
<p>I have deleted this instructable, thanks to instructables user - &quot;whathappened&quot;. </p><p>He spoiled it for me, and also for all of you by proxy.</p><p>Everyone give &quot;whathappened&quot; a hand !!</p><p>Thank you so much whathappened; From 520,079 people all over the globe.</p><p>Yay, whathappened.</p>
There didn't seem to be much instruction on how to figure where to mark for the plumb cut meeting the peak of the roof. Everything else made perfect sense!!
<p>I'm deleting this instructable. Thanks to you. I'll wait 1 day then its down. Take a bow...</p><p> I took a lot of time making this, and was proud of it. Your comments made it seem as you didn't even read it, are trashing it with things that are not even in it, and frankly, are inaccurate and poor practice compared to math.</p><p> Did you realize that you are replying to comments that are far beyond stale too??</p><p> If you want to share your &quot;snapping lines all over the floor&quot; way or how to tote a rafters book with you, why don't you make your own instructable instead of ruining one that 1/2 of a million+ people found to be useful or interesting??</p><p>Now that it's down, can you go troll somewhere else??</p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>Thank you for pointing that out, I've edited that step giving it more detail.</p>
<p>Hu??? </p><p>1. Who said anything about not having $20?? </p><p>2. I don't look down on people like you, who like to tote a book around from job to job, why do you look down on folks who like to be self sufficient, and solve mathematical problems for themselves, with knowledge they learned and committed to memory in their own brains?</p><p>And last but not least...</p><p> 3. Why exactly, would the math not work, and put a &quot;hump&quot; in a roof??</p><p>4.You did read the title and see that this instructable is on Common rafters, and not on Hip or Valley rafters I trust..</p><p>5. For me, weather a building is a box, rectangle, a circle, or &quot;L&quot; shaped and weather it has a valley, dormer, or nothing at all..... one would think you would be sure your rafters are the correct length. One would think...</p>
My deck is 66 foot long 16 foot wide how long should the rafters be
<p>It would depend on the pitch you want to put on it .</p>
<p>Thank you for all the useful information you have provided in this forum! My question is in using the formula to figure out the length of the rafter, what would the overhang be for a 5/12 pitch? We are trying to get a take off list for the material required. Thank you for your time!</p>
Also, when attaching the rafters, where on them do you nail? It seems obvious that you'd insert through the narrow part of the 1 1/2&quot; side into the peak board, but surely more than 1 nail would be required. My framing nailer holds nails up to 3&quot; long. Would I need to buy a gun with longer nails or do I toe-nail from the side or neither of those? ;) thank you for your help!!
<p>Joe, great instructible! Is it necessary to make two cuts on the ridge beam side of the rafter to remove 1/2 the width of the beam or could you factor that reduction into The original length? Also, do you have a blog on measuring and installing the ridge beam these rafters will tie into? I'm finishing a play house for the kids with a 5/12 roof to match my house!</p>
<p>Thanks for your comment Jlgulley3.</p><p>No you could subtract the full with of the ridge from your buildings overall width, and then continue with the formula, but for ease of explanation in this forum I just chose to show &quot;the cutting it off after&quot; method.</p><p>Unfortunately I have no blog yet, but the thought has crossed my mind, and I just may start one someday... Thanks.</p><p>The measurement of your ridge will be the same as your building length from gable end to gable end. Installation depends on the size, but this generally works for things like sheds and play-houses.... </p><p>Install 3-4 sets of your rafters and let them lean against each-other at the top with an angle brace or two on each side so they wont just flop over. Lay out all of the rafter marks on the ridge (2' O.C. is 23&amp;1/4&quot; to the first one and then every 24&quot; from that first one. 16&quot; O.C. is 15&amp;1/4 and then every 16&quot; from the first.) then push it up from below between the rafters, when you let off on the ridge, the rafters SHOULD bind on it and stop it from falling back down through. Best to have 3 people just to make it a very east task, fewer than that, and it can try your patience.</p><p>Hope that has helped, any other questions.. don't be a stranger! Stop in and ask! </p><p>Post some pics of the play house when your done?</p>
Why do all this math when all you really need is a simple contractor calculator?
<p>Thanks for your question,</p><p>For people who don't want to shell out $50.00 - $100.00 on the calculator, the brain works for free. Scroll down and view the comment from &quot;wills1&quot; and my reply to him for a more comprehensive answer.</p><p>P.S. Why memorize a booklet full of directions for a calculator when all you have to do is some basic math??</p>
<p>could you do it without being a even number like your run is 10 feet 3 and 7/16</p><p>showing how to convert it</p>
<p>I have added this scenario to Step One of the Instructable. Thank you for your feedback and this excellent suggestion. </p><p>Happy framing!</p>
<p>this just saved me a ton of money. i was worried about buying construction calculators and all the bells and whistles just to make a darn common rafter template...thanks, man!!</p>
<p>Oh wow! I couldn't have prompted you to leave a better comment! I liked to use the Construction Master Calculator back in the day, but then I thought... What would I do if I was on a job with a full crew of guys out in the boonies and the thing wasn't working on roof day? Shut the site down and drive 50 miles to Lowes? That's when I learned the old school way, it isn't much slower than the fancy calculator, and it always works... Thanks for the comment, and happy framing!</p>
<p>Awesome... very, very concise and helpful. Building a clerestory shed and the rafter template supplied with MIGHT have worked if the final dimensions where exactly as the plan suggests, but of course, the real thing varies by enough to make the template as useful as ashtrays on a motorcycle. Your explanation of the maths behind the calculations was perfect. Thanks a bunch.</p>
<p>Thank you so much for the feedback Steve. It's great to hear this is useful to folks out there in the web. Hope the shed turns out good for ya.</p><p>Joe.</p>
<p>Hi, thanks for this article. You made the process so simple. Do you have instructions on how to make valley rafters? </p>
<p>I signed in with Google+, and it gave me a different user name... JoeS3. I didn't realize it until I hit the &quot;Make Comment&quot; button. Needless to say, the reply back to you from JoeS3 was me.</p><p>Thanks again.</p><p>Joe.</p>
<p>Thanks for your kind words fjm. I have wanted to do a piece on valleys and hips but spare time eludes me. I'm thinking I'll do future instructables in video, even repeat this one including an easy way for buildings with odd widths like 22' 7 &amp; 3/4&quot;. In hind sight, I only give the mathematical process for foot increments. </p><p>It is on my list, and your interest may just be the motivator I needed.</p><p>Thanks again, J.</p>
nice
Thanks for the feedback BIG - X
wow! very cool!
Why thank you zaz! :)

About This Instructable

546,403 views

66 favorites

License:

More by Joe Smania:
Add instructable to: