Instructables
Picture of How To Make A Custom Fancy Walking Cane
Walking canes have been used since early man started to walk about and needed a tool to help him when injured or over trekking over uneven terrain. The cane is not only needed for the aide of assisting one to keep stable, but also has a history of being a fashion statement. A walking stick or cane has been used to assist the aristocratic elite from their high wheeled carriages, as the wheels where some 5 feet tall and were quite shakey when decending or ascending from them, especially when dressed in finery. Gentlemen and ladies would adorn a cane made from exotic woods, metals and gems to show their wealth and status. The technology of the cane has evolved little in the years of mankind, but the materials are varied and the quality of a cane can be judged by not only the fancy woods or ornamentation, but also the quality of craftsmanship.

My goal here is to show you how to create a sturdy, functional and attractive cane that the user can wear with confidence and pride. If all efforts are successful, the ugly, flimsy common store bought cane will be abolished with a more sturdy, attractive and comfortable cane for those who need one, and just maybe a new interest as a fashion trend will return.

The use of hand and power tools will be shown and in the event you do not have one, you can use the other. The techniques are basic and the better results are in the level of effort you choose to endure. You can make a simple, crudely finished cane in a day or take your time in shaping and sanding and have an elegant art object within a week.

For more of my work please visit: http://lumberjocks.com/mmh/projects
 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: Selecting the Wood. A Note on Safety.

Picture of Selecting the Wood.  A Note on Safety.
Your choice of materials can vary as long as they are strong and durable and easy enough to work with. The harder the wood, the sturdier the cane, but it will also be harder to work with. I suggest a medium-hard wood such as Cherry, Black Walnut or Maple for the beginner. These hardwoods are common and the medium/fine grain is easy to work with. Oak has too coarse of a grain to my liking and may splinter more readily. Do not use soft woods such as Pine, Cedar or Birch as these will not be able to fully support the weight of a person, but for the sake of the project, they would be easy to carve and shape. Just make sure they are never used to support the full weight of a user in need of sturdy support.

When using harder, exotic woods such as Bloodwood, Ebony, Padouk, Purpleheart, etc., these will take more effort in shaping and finishing, but the results are extraordinary.

SAFETY EQUIPMENT (NOT optional):
Eye Protection
Ear Protection
Dust Mask and Vacuum Dust System
Gloves
A Note on Safety: If you don't want to lose it, then wear something to protect it. Your eyes, lungs, fingers, etc., are irreplacable. Flying particles and dust can damage your eyes and lungs. Wear the geeky equipment and be safe.

SUPPLIES & TOOLS NEEDED:
[Note: Electric and Hand tools are listed as optional for use upon availability.]
Wood for SHAFT: 34-36" Long (with grain) x 1.5 x 1.5"
Wood for HANDLE: 6" Long (with grain) x 2" Wide x 1.5" Thick
Wood for Collar (optional): 1.5" x 1.5" x 1" Thick
Dowels: 4 inches each - 5/8" & 1/4" hardwood
Drill Press
Forstner Bit: 5/8"
Wood Drill Bit: 1/4"
Saws: Table Saw & Band Saw or Hand Saws
Assorted Wood Files & Rasps (coarse & fine)
Electric Sanders (optional): Belt & Disc Sander, Orbital Sander
Assorted Sand Paper (36 - 320 grit)
Shaving Mule (optional)
Spoke Shaves (optional)
50" Wood Clamp
Wood Glue or Epoxy
Rubber Cane Tip
Oil/Polyeurethane Finish
Clean Rags & Paper Towels

Step 2: Cutting the Wood

Picture of Cutting the Wood
MVC-149F.JPG
Adjust the Table Saw guide to 1.5" width and cut the 36" length of wood. Mark the wood from one end to taper approximately 7/8" to the top end 1.5". Proceed to the next step to drill the dowel hole before cutting this off.

(Note: The safety cover has been removed for photography purposes.)

Step 3: Mark and Drill Inner Dowel Hole.

Picture of Mark and Drill Inner Dowel Hole.
MVC-124F.JPG
On the top end of the shaft, mark a line from each corner cross-wise to create an "X". The point where the two lines cross is the center of the shaft. Clamp the shaft so the surface is 45 degrees square from the drill shaft. While machine is OFF - Use a 5/8" Forstner Bit and mark the center of the "X" by indenting the bit into the wood. (This will help the bit find the mark and not jump when starting to drill.) Turn on machine and drill 1.5" deep. [Hint: The shavings should be vacuumed while drilling and you may need to bring the bit up to the surface to remove dust/shavings otherwise they may compact and jam. This can also heat up the bit and start to burn.]

Step 4: Remove Excess Wood on Shaft with Hand Tools.

Picture of Remove Excess Wood on Shaft with Hand Tools.
MVC-141F.JPG
MVC-151F.JPG
MVC-128F.JPG
MVC-134F.JPG
MVC-143F.JPG
Remove shaft from drill press clamp and return to the Band Saw.

On the Band Saw, follow the line you marked from the top to bottom, tapering to 7/8" wide and trim off the excess wood that will be the bottom of the cane shaft. This step helps eliminate excess wood that would otherwise take longer to remove.

[Note: It is always best to remove LESS wood and go back and remove more. You can not easily add wood if you've taken away too much.]

You can now begin to remove more wood to shape the shaft. You can use hand tools and/or power tools. Which ever are available. I am showing you how to use both.

This is a Shaving Mule. It is an old fashioned system to clamp and work on a piece while sitting. You can make your own or buy one. Your right foot kicks the foot stand to create pressure on the jaw to wedge the piece you are working on in place. This is used mainly to make spindles for chairs.

Using several different styles of spoke shaves and rasps, I taper the shaft down to the desired shape and thickness.

Do not do the final shaping at the joinery end, as you want to assemble the handle and optional collar before your final shaping. Otherwise you may remove too much material and have an unsightly void.

Step 5: Remove Excess Wood on Shaft with Power Tools.

Picture of Remove Excess Wood on Shaft with Power Tools.
MVC-143F.JPG
MVC-144F.JPG
You want to remove and shape the shaft enough to give it form yet leave enough wood to do the final shaping after assembly.

You can also use power tools to remove wood. I like to use both, as the power tools are fast but also very noisy and usually create a lot more dust than hand tools. Hand tools are slower but the serenity one can create is something you just have to experience first hand. It's a Zen thing. Either you want to go there or not. You can get there fast or enjoy the journey and get there in a more peaceful state of mind.

I use a Belt & Disk Sander and although you can take off a lot of material quickly by using a coarse grit (24-36), it does make a heck of a lot of noise and dust. The dust is very fine and hazardous especially when using finer grit (80-220). You should have a vaccuum hooked up to this and a dust mask is recommended, especially if working on toxic species of wood. Eye and ear protection are also a must.

Step 6: Cutting & Shaping the Handle.

Picture of Cutting & Shaping the Handle.
MVC-114F.JPG
MVC-117F.JPG
MVC-118F.JPG
MVC-119F.JPG
MVC-121F.JPG
The wood for the handle should be strong enough to hold up under the weight of the average person (150-200 lbs.). The denser the wood you can support a heavier weight. The shaft can be of a fancier wood, such as figured maple, cherry or black walnut. The grain of the wood should extend the length of the handle for strength. If you use a short grain along the length, then you must have a very dense variety of wood otherwise it could snap off under the weight of the user.

The size of wood needed for the handle is 6" L x 2" W x 1.5" Thick. First make sure the top and bottom sides are square so that when you drill the hole to connect to the shaft, the dowel will fit squarely, otherwise it will angle and your joinery connections will be off. Draw your design on the large surface of the wood. Mark where the handle joins the shaft. Mark the area where the hole is to be drilled with the "X" as shown for the shaft. Drill the hole 1.5" deep with the 5/8" Forstner bit, same as done with the shaft.

You can use the Belt & Disk sander to remove the excess wood to start shaping the handle, then use hand tools to get more subtle shaping. Error on the side of removing less than more as you will do your final shaping once the cane is assembled.

Step 7: Adding a Collar to the Handle & Shaft (optional)

Picture of Adding a Collar to the Handle & Shaft (optional)
For a fancier looking cane, you can add a collar between the handle and shaft. This can be of almost any type of wood. I like to use a contrasting color of wood to accent the rest of the cane.

Select a piece of wood at least 1.5" x 1.5" x .5"-1.0" Thick. Any smaller and you will have difficulty holding it in place while drilling. You may still want to use a hand clamp to hold the wood, as when the drill is in the wood it can spin and you will lose control of your grip. If you drill the hole in a larger piece of wood and then cut with the band saw, this will eliminate this problem.

Step 8: Assembling the Cane.

Picture of Assembling the Cane.
MVC-129F.JPG
MVC-130F.JPG
MVC-137F.JPG
MVC-151F.JPG
MVC-132F.JPG
After your initial shaping of the handle, shaft and adding the optional collar, you can now assemble them. Measure the holes of all of the pieces with a thinner dowel, add them together and cut the length needed to fit the entire length of the cavity. (1.5" handle + 1.5" shaft + 1." collar = 4" of 5/8" dowel). Trim as needed to make sure all of the pieces fit snug and tight. If there are any gaps, you need to sand or cut until it fits.

Using wood glue or epoxy, glue pieces together and secure with a bar clamp. Use a soft rag to protect the handle from being dented by the clamp. Set aside 24 hrs.

You can now do some additional shaping using hand and/or power tools. Remember to not do the final shaping until the side dowels are in place, as you may have some tear out from the drill bit and will need to sand down the wood to remove this.

Step 9: Adding Side Dowels

Picture of Adding Side Dowels
MVC-139F.JPG
MVC-140F.JPG
Remove assembled cane from clamp. Lay the cane flat on it's side and with a pencil, along the length of the cane, mark the center of the cane 1" above and below the joints. Then across the width of the cane, mark 3/4" above and below each joint. This is where you will drill to insert the 1/4" side dowels. These dowels will cut into the inner dowel and hold all of the parts together should the glue fail to keep the different woods in place. This insures no movement will occur should the wood shrink or expand. You will not find this technique in cheaply made canes.

Using a 1/4" drill bit, indent the wood with the bit with machine turned OFF. Turn on machine and slowly drill through the cane. You may have some tear out on the exiting side of the cane, so you will want to have left extra thickness of wood to compensate for the repair of this.

Once the two holes are drilled, measure the 1/4" dowel, adding 1/8" on each side. Glue in place and allow to set 24 hrs.

Sand down the dowels and do your final shaping to remove tool marks and tear out. Start with 80, 100, 180, 220 grit and finish with 320 grit. Your cane should be looking quite nice by now and the next step of applying the finish will confirm all of your hard work.

Step 10: Finishing your Custom Fancy Walking Cane

Picture of Finishing your Custom Fancy Walking Cane
MVC-147F.JPG
MVC-145F.JPG
MVC-145F.JPG
MVC-146F.JPG
Now you're almost done! You've shaped, assembled and sanded your cane until you can't stand it any more! The beauty of the grain will emerge and show your hard work (or lack of if you haven't gotten all of those tool marks out.).

You will need to place your painted cane somewhere that is dust free and can dry for 24 hrs. You may want to clamp the bottom end so it's supported so the sides of the shaft or the handle will not touch anything. You may need to sand and touch up some areas if you have rough spots.

Using either a polyeurethane or oil/polyeurethane product, wipe on a moderately thin coat of the desired finish. Cover thoroughly, but do not leave uncovered areas and do so quickly as air bubbles will appear if you re-coat too many times. Wipe off any excess, as if using an oil/poly mixture, it will not dry thoroughly and will become gummy. Multiple thin coats dry faster. Sand in between coats until the final top coat. Allow to dry completely between coats.

CAUTION: Many of these oil finishes are HIGHLY FLAMABLE! Read the instructions and follow carefully. Dispose of used rags properly. NEVER toss a wet oil soaked rag in the trash. It will combust and ignite. Air dry or put in water and air dry before disposing in trash. Also use proper ventellation. READ the label!

Ouela! You are now the proud owner and creator of a fabulous, custom made fancy walking cane! Post your results for all to see!

See more of my work at http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/mmh/projects.
1-40 of 51Next »
BigRed3521 year ago
Honestly, this is the best tutorial I've come across on instructables thus far. I am amazed at how precisely you described each step. I think when I make my cane in the near future, I'm going to try to do it all by hand. I want to see if I can do it how my great great great grandfather did it. His cane has lasted over a hundred years and is still in perfect condition. Thanks for the wonderful instructable.
Regel118 hours ago

This was a fantastic instructable! I just finished one for my dad who recently had two knee surgeries. He'll love it.

I used cherry for the shaft, mesquite for the handle, and a wenge collar. I used teak oil to protect it all and applied couple of coats of wood wax to give it a slight sheen and to smooth the irregularities out of the wood.

Request: If you make another one in the future, can you please demonstrate the tools you used to make the handle and how you shaped it in more detail? Thanks!

alcurb1 month ago

I like the cane project. The results were nice.

Would you please post an instructables on how to make a shaving mule?

alcurb1 month ago

I like the cane project. The results were nice.

Would you please post an instructables on how to make a shaving mule?

alcurb1 month ago

I like this Cane tutorial. The result was nice.

Would you please post an instructables on making a shaving mule?

SparkySolar1 month ago

SparkySolar12 minutes agoReply

Thank you so much for the nice instructable. I love it.

Rima

SparkySolar1 month ago

SparkySolar12 minutes agoReply

Thank you so much for the nice instructable. I love it.

Rima

Do you suppose that a hickory shaft and handle would be able to support a full grown man? I would like to make this for my grandfather, who was a shop teacher, and i think he would really like this. Thanks

shadow129525 years ago
nice tools, ever tried making a bokken?
mmh (author)  shadow129525 years ago
No, I haven't made a bokken (yet), as I don't know anyone who would use it. They don't look difficult to make and the shape is simple. I can imagine it would be a good exercise to create one with hand tools. I may have to try making one with some of the figured cherry wood that I have.
thepelton mmh5 years ago
I do woodworking, and a friend of mine who is in the SCA made a wooden bokken. His first one was Purpleheart, which is very hard, but once it reached a certain point of stress, it cracked. I suggested to him that he use a springy wood, such as Ash, Yew, or Osage Orange, since such woods can bend and snap back to their original shape. Cherry I don't beleive would be a good wood to use for a bokken. It hasn't got the elasticity of Ash or Osage Orange. It would look good until you actually tried to use it in a practice combat.
mmh (author)  thepelton5 years ago
Interesting tip. That makes sense that the bokken needs a flexible type of wood to withstand the impact. I didn't realize Osage Orange was flexible as Ash or Yew. I like Purpleheart for cane shafts but it's quite heavy. Some dense woods are still quite brittle as you mention, especially snakewood. Apparently there is good reason why baseball bats are made of Ash.
thepelton mmh5 years ago
Osage Orange aka Boisd'arc, or Maclura Pomifera was originally used by the Osage native american tribe for bows. Long straight pieces can be obtained for those who want to make such a bow, just like long straight pieces of Ash are available for those who want to make their own baseball bat (I would probably rip an Ash bat blank in half lengthwise). Incidentally, Yew was used for bows by native american tribes in Washington and Oregon state.
mmh (author)  thepelton2 years ago
Interesting info. I thought that Bois d' arc was a generic term for red colored woods. I have found that Osage Orange is excellent for high stress needs. I have found some that has tints of reds in it from contact with certain soils. Very beautiful wood.

FYI: The bright yellow/orange color oxidizes to a two toned yellow/caramel color, still very beautiful, but more subtle.
graydog111 mmh2 years ago
Fence posts made from Bois D'Arc will get so hard in 50 years, you cannot drive a fence staple into it. It does not rot.

There is an abundance of this wood listed on eBay Do an eBay search for each name:
"Osage Orange",
"Bois D'Arc",
and
"Hedge Apple".

It is very reasonably priced on eBay.
thepelton:
I make canes from Bois D'Arc also, but from one piece of wood.

You can see one here: <Blogspot>
and here: <eBayGuide>
This reminded me of the same thing! LOL
thatlabguy3 years ago
I really appreciate this tutorial. Now, all I have to do is try to draw and then shape the handle...I am not an artist at all so this is going to be my greatest challenge but, I look forward to it!
demongod3 years ago
Does this work for a colonial costume?
I never thought of hooking a shop vac up to a palm sander before. Good idea. And a note on the safety, i can tell you from experience that little bits and pieces will fly towards your eyes, i took a metal sliver to the eye because i didn't bother to put on my safety glasses. I was ok but it cost me a visit to the emergency room and a lot of pain so wear all safety equipment even if you think it isn't necessary.
ferggie934 years ago

A couple of my friends and I are making a cane like this as a inside joke to our history teacher. If we wanted to put a signature on the cane before we put the finish on the cane do you have any ideas or recommendations on how we should do that? thanks

mmh (author)  ferggie934 years ago

First sand the surface very smooth.  You could use either a Sharpie, permanent ink pen or a wood burning tool.  Practice on a scrap piece of wood first, as this is permanent.  Also, test the scrap wood with the finish to make sure the Sharpie does not bleed.

chabias4 years ago
Very nice. I started hand carving a walking stick a few years ago, and it's been sitting, unfinished, in a corner of my shop ever since. It's coming out tomorrow. Thanks for giving me new momentum to finish it!
plum02144 years ago
I've tried in the past to make a cane all in one piece and failed, your handle joining technique is great. I can't believe how simple you make it look. Thanks for the tutorial.
theRIAA5 years ago
what is that wood thing with the red seat in step 8?!
mmh (author)  theRIAA5 years ago
The Shaving Mule (shaving horse) is an old fashion method of holding the piece of wood while you shave it with a spoke shave. These tools were used to make chair parts, etc. before power tools were invented. It's a very relaxing way of working with wood. The only noise is that of your hand tools against the wood, and maybe your humming while you work. It's Very Zen.
mmh (author)  theRIAA5 years ago
Padouk. It is very hard and has a bit of an open grain, and is very strong.
theRIAA mmh5 years ago
sorry... not what type of wood... what is the big machine in step 8, 5th picture, made out of bolted together 2x4s with the big red vinyl seat.
shaving horse ,lets you sit close to your work good for control ......nice work mmh
woodace5 years ago
This a wonderful detailed how too . I'm a very experienced woodworker but I have never made a cane. A total thumbs up for the tutorial and the many beautiful canes you share on Lumberjocks .com
I really liked the tutorial. It was very informative! I like to make knives and just started reading about making canes and or walking sticks. I have been collecting them for a while and thought I would prefer to make my own. The materials I use for making knives are exotic and sometimes unusual so what better to show them off then on a cane for all to see. I have made an attempt at some walking sticks in the past here are a few examples of them (I call them "yardsticks"). Thanks, grizzledcamudgen
Yardsticks Neil Goddard whittled.JPGWalking staff.JPGVine filework on knife spine and sheath.JPGVulcanized spacers were used to highlight filework.JPG
Iron wood would be perfect for this.
awoodcarver5 years ago
Very nice work , I have been on a cane for 7 years or so at first I turned 2 23 inch walnut or other hard wood ( I need a 45inch cane )put together with a dowel and a brass or copper pipe and carve a handle or just use a branch that shape I want ...now with arthritis ruining my hands I try to carve cane/handles but find it hard as well as holding the turning tools so have gone to branches ....maybe the belt sanders...spoke shaves and other hand tools with some mods will work ...I also find 11/4 inch poplar works for the shaft but the same color cane is kind of boring but if you do a bamboo shape for the shaft it works again very nice work
mmh (author)  awoodcarver5 years ago
Thank you for the comments. I would love to see some of your work.
awoodcarver mmh5 years ago
here are a few I have done not canes but fun carvings....
Nextraker5 years ago
Awesome Stuff
Wheatridge5 years ago
I just finished the project. The plans and procedures were excellent. I think if I were making another one I would have shapped the handle on a lathe.
Cane finished 600px.jpgCane finished 600px.jpg
mmh (author)  Wheatridge5 years ago
Nice cane! The reason I did not use a lathe for my Instructables is that most people may not own one and I do not like the uniform spindle look. The lathe makes the shaft look like a colonial style piece of furniture and I don't care for that style. My canes are made to show the hand crafted workmanship more than the industrial machine work.

Thanks for the feedback and happy cane making.
Wheatridge mmh5 years ago
You are absolutely correct on afterthought. The spoke shave produces many marks, groves, etc. that are non- exhistent in spindle turning that adds character to the tapered handle. I did the initial sanding on my lathe; and finishing with working down to 320 grit in sanding with the grain off of the lathe. The shaft has a much more distinctive look than if it were merely turned to to a smooth finish. We have had many fine coments on your cane. People want me to make one for them
amakerguy5 years ago
Favorited! I have a walking stick biz. And my first cane attemp the handle can come off.
1-40 of 51Next »