How To Make A Motion Activated On/Off Light or Electronic Appliance

Picture of How To Make A Motion Activated On/Off Light or Electronic Appliance
In this instructable i'm gonna show you how to make an analog motion activated on/off light or appliance.This can be used to switch any appliance.I made this circuit analog because i've only been a hobbyist for 2 years and i did'nt have my fair knowledge of microcontrollers and programming(not that i hate them i think microcontrollers like arduino rock).This instructable can be  easy if you have at least a little experience in circuit building and can see the working of the circuit and how it works in the video below.

i'm entering this for the epilog  challenge V and the kit contest .So don't forget to vote for me in the contests.I would like to win one of those laser cutters to make  enclosures,  parts and engraved materials for my projects and i could defenitely use the laptop tablet and the parrot drone.Thank you for viewing and once again don't forget to vote.

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Step 1: Components :

Picture of Components :
555 timer x1
LM741 opamp x2
4017 counter. x3
1M x3
47k x1
100k x1
100 ohms x1
1k x1
1.5k x1

2.2uf (microfarads) electrolytic capacitor x1
0.1uf ceramic disc capacitor x1

1N4148 x5

2n3904 x1
2n2907 x1

5v spst relay

9v battery(if you're gonna use an adapter you don't need the 9v battery and snap) 
9v battery snap

 PCB board x1(the following is only if you're gonna solder it)
solid core wire .
DIL sockets(if you're soldering)

a breadboard(if you want to prototype it)

*the picture is for representation purposes onlyand does not represent the components used in this project  and i do not own the copyright of the image
jpietrzak6 days ago

I think(?) I see a fan in your bill of parts. What is this for? Also, can you upload bigger picture of the actual parts?

michel moltrum12 months ago

hey everyone: i assume this is a fake instructable, since there are so many inconsistencies between schematics and instructions, and i made this circuit and it doesn't work either way (following schems and instructions) (i'm an amateur at electronics).

but there's a nice comeback: i've learned a lot of theory of electronics, and i had to read a few books trying to solve this nonsense was not an entirely negative experience for me (i mean making this non-working fake circuit).

greetings from argentina, south america.

Strontium (author)  michel moltrum12 months ago

Well Michel, maybe circuits don't really work in Argentina? Before you trash someone else's work be sure that you have got everything right . What with you being a genius amateur electronics hobbyist i'm sure there's no reason for you to be wrong . I'm 14 and this is one of the circuits i've ever made on a perfboard , so even if i made a mistake i can still correct it so cut me some slack man .Also if i was wrong I would be glad to accept it because that would only enrich my knowledge and it won't diminish my honour just because some person claims my work is trash

Greetings from tamilnadu, India , one of the few places where circuits work

hi Strontium, thank you for the reply. Please notice that i pointed an inconsistency between the schematics and the instructions a month ago. since you didn´t answer my polite question at that time i had to assume that this is an abandoned thread. can you help me to make this circuit working? please read my first comment below here. thank you very much and have a beatiful day there :)

hi there, shouldn't it be:

-connect a 1M resistor between V- and pin3

instead of:

-connect a 1M resistor between V- and pin2



Philiprocks2 years ago
I don't know why I can't reply posts. Vsuresh1 thanks for the explanation and I will build it immediately. Great Instructable
Strontium (author)  Philiprocks2 years ago
-you're welcome and if you think my instructable is good enough please vote for me in the epilog challenge and if you have any doubts with the circuit ,you can ask me and once again thank you.
WWC2 years ago
The 4017 makes a great " flip flop " circuit. I have used this before and have been able to go from the photo transistor direct to pin 14 of the 4017 with out any circuit in between. Altho using an op amp or transistor i think would give more stability in the long run.
Strontium (author)  WWC2 years ago
-you 're right ,The LM741 provides not only stability but also makes sure the relay does'nt switch itself on/off in case of a bright light source a little distance away from the sensor .i would also like to see your version of this circuit
Philiprocks2 years ago
I have a doubt, ¿why you use de 4017?
Strontium (author)  Philiprocks2 years ago
the 4017 in this case acts as an on/off switch for the relay.the 555 timers provides clock pulses for the 4017 counter(it's actually a led chaser circuit i have modified),but the LM741 opamp does not allow the clk pulse to go into the pin14(clk in) of the 4017 counter until an object passes over the Proximity sensor and allows the transistor to allow the clk pulse into the counter.if you held your hand in front of the sensor for too long you will see that the bulb or whatever you're switching on/off would keep clicking on/off rapidly.i've tied alternate outputs of the 4017 counter so that instead of acting as an led chaser ,it acts as an simple on/off switch.
NealH2 years ago
handy useful circuit. thanks
Strontium (author)  NealH2 years ago
-you're welcome
NealH2 years ago
handy useful circuit. thanks