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How To Make A Neo-Victorian Ball Gown (Advanced Sewing)

How To Make A Neo-Victorian Ball Gown (Advanced Sewing)
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A detailed description of a Neo-Victorian costume I completed recently. It is a one-piece gown with a faux bustle and mini train.

It involves some pretty advanced sewing and requires that you be familiar with the basics of pattern instructions and garment design.

his costume was commissioned by a client who lives in Washington State. She requested a gown similar to another Neo-Victorian gown I had made, without the excessive amounts of lace and trim that are typical for Victorian gowns. Removing the trim saved a great deal of time although it required some creativity on my part when it came to hemming and other finishing tasks.

I used Simplicity 4244 (now out of print) as a base for this costume.

The whole project took me well over forty hours to complete.

All photographs copyright timetravelcostumes.com 2009
 
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Step 1Purchasing the Fabric & Pattern

With some careful coupon clipping and lots of calling around to the different Joann's near my house, I kept the costs down on this gown. (This costume could easily have run into the $200's for materials alone, especially if the client had wanted the lace and trim which often shows up on Victorian gowns). The total materials cost was $72.

Pattern $9
Fabric $56 (I used a 50% off coupon on this - a huge cost savings!)
Buttons $5
Thread $2

I will lined the gown with the same fabric as I used for the body.
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8 comments
Apr 22, 2011. 6:07 PMJessica92103 says:
I love your instructable, it shows a great deal of care and has such a lovely outcome.

I'd drop this little hint if you do make another like this. Instead of a flat felled seam (and the resulting stitches on the outside of the garment, a (Victorian) technique is the french seam (at least, that's what I've heard it called, I might be mixing terms, I only do this for fun). This seam can't be done on quite everything, but it's made by sewing the wrong(right)sides together, so that the edges are facing OUTSIDE the garment, trimming the edges, and then flipping the garment inside out and sewing the seam again, basically encasing the raw edges within the second seam. It takes a little work but can be a quite nice finish when you don't want to have seams on the outside of a garment.
Aug 1, 2010. 9:05 AMNola Yergen says:
Love it! Very nicely done!
Jun 16, 2010. 4:54 PMManicmom55 says:
What kind of fabric DID you buy? It looks like a satin.
Jun 16, 2010. 4:56 PMManicmom55 says:
Also how did you aquire this commision? Was it from etsy's alchemy? Just curious. You did a fabulous job, BTW!!
Jun 15, 2010. 10:31 AMJanxAngel says:
I use French seams or mock French seams for finishing when I don't want it to show on the outside. It does add a little bulk to the inside, but for a no show finish and more fluid fabric it's the best.  French is for straight lines and mock French is for curves.  It can be more work with the iron than a flat fell too, but stick with it.

You're right about finishing making the difference. Since I learned how to do seam finishes, the only things I won't let off the table without it are craft projects that are too small and fleece items since they don't ravel at all.  Though I still like to put a zig-zag in for the look.  

Commercial patterns many times assume that the home sewer wants to use as many shortcuts as possible, especially when it comes to "costumes".

Thanks for the tip on the tulle for poufy sleeves.  I never make them for myself since I am large busted, but if I get a request it's good to know.

This was great for me as well, since I have this pattern in my stash, but haven't found a reason to undertake it yet.  Now I have a basic overview of some of the work involved in it.  I know that the workload will increase quite a bit if I add all the trims in as well, but seeing someone actually make it is pretty cool.  

Thanks!
Aug 3, 2009. 4:22 PMfungus amungus says:
Nice!

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Author:tyalangan
I love to sew and read. My husband and I also do a lot of DIY home improvements.