How To Make High Grade Natural Beeswax Leather Polish and Conditioner

Picture of How To Make High Grade Natural Beeswax Leather Polish and Conditioner
Years ago, when I started working with leather I would often use the commercially available polishes on the store shelves, or the proprietary blends found at the leather craft stores. They ended up being pretty costly, but more so, they didn't last very long and contained chemicals that seemed counter intuitive to traditional craft. So I set out to create my own.

My first attempt was simply a mix of paraffin wax, harvested from candles and heavy grade mineral oil. It worked, but again, I was still using chems on my work. So the formula evolved from there. As usual, I had to research. A trip to the library proved very informative. I started by looking at recipes that were nearly 1000 years old, and although they didn't really mention ratios, they did talk about ingredients in detail. (interestingly, human urine featured heavily in most). So, I eventually made a trip to a local bee keeper and picked up some natural beeswax and started experimenting with that.

I wanted my polish to do five things:
1 - It had to soften the leather; Dying can end up removing the natural oils in the leather so I needed a way to put them back.
2 - It had to Condition; Leather should have a supple feel when you handle it and though it may not be stiff, it shouldn't end up feeling course either.
3 - It had to protect; I mean long term protection that kept the oils inside, preventing the leather from drying and cracking, and also keep outside elements like salt and dirt from saturating.
4 - It had to shine and bring out the natural luster of the leather.
5 - It has to degrease; old leather can be pretty dirty.

Now, I have my own proprietary formula that I sell, and I'm not about to give that one up, however I wanted to offer some insight into mixing your own, personalized blend of ingredients for a polish that will enhance your work.

Here's a caveat; This polish works on A LOT of different materials, and not just leather. I use it on wood, pleather, canvas (for oiled canvas) even metals, but does not play well with suede. If you're not sure if it will work, I recommend trying a tiny bit on a hidden area before using it on the whole piece.

In the first image, you can see a before and after using the polish. I generally use pieces of old cotton hoodies for buffing rags, and tho they may leave a bit of lint behind, they polish extremely well. Another interesting factoid; in a different form, this polish can be used as lip balm. It's all about switching up the ratios which I'll talk about later.
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I have bought small glass mason jars that are just the right size for balms and creams. They are wide mouth and you can replace the metal ring with those plastic screw on lids they sell. All available at Wal-Mart.

tried my first batch today. hope it turns out great. used a presto pot. i'm a pomade brewer btw so i have different waxes at my disposal. thanks for this instructable

A much simpler way to set up the pans is to use a medium sized saucepan and a glass mixing bowl. You want the bottom of the bowl to touch the water in the saucepan, but not the bottom of the saucepan. Easy peasy.
ElChick1 month ago

Hi! Question for you on your polish, and perhaps I'm not understanding the purpose of the conditioner/polish/sealant, but you mention that it doesn't work on suede. Does that include the "suede" side of regular veg-tan leather as well? For example, with your hat 'Ible, did you use the conditioner on the inside of the hat as well as the outer side? Meaning, did you use it on the inner suede side of the leather as well, or just on the outer smoother side? I would think you'd want to coat all sides of the leather to protect and condition it. Sorry, but as I said, perhaps I'm not understanding correctly the purpose for its application.

antagonizer (author)  ElChick1 month ago

I was referring to brushed suede as in jackets and boots, but the rough suede side of veg. tan leather should be fine. Just remember a polish will darken whatever you're using it on.

Thanks for the response! So did you use it on the inside of the hat as
well? Does that protect against sweat stains, or do weird things to
your skin since it is right next to it?

antagonizer (author)  ElChick1 month ago

No, there's nothing reactive, so unless you have an allergy you shouldn't have an issue. The oils absorb into the leather and the wax seals, preventing the salt from your sweat absorbing.

dpulley3 months ago

Could soy be used in place of the coconut? I use a skin product called Waxlene that is great for all sorts of things, though I've not tried it on leather.

antagonizer (author)  dpulley3 months ago

I've never used soy, personally, but I don't see why not. When substituting all you're looking for is oils with similar density as replacements. Mess with the recipe. Make it your own and experiment.

timoftheshire5 months ago

How would I change the ratios for a wax for waxing canvas garments and/or leather?

antagonizer (author)  timoftheshire5 months ago

I saw an instructable, recently that produces great waxed canvas here if you're interested;

If you want to maintain the conditioning of my formula, just increase the beeswax 2-1 solid/semi-solid to liquid and you can use the technique in asergeeva's instructable. That should give you some impeccable waxed canvas.

sorry, confused about what exact order the ratios are in (I found that section a little unclear, maybe edit it to make the order of all the ratio mentions the same?)

Anyway, for the canvas, you mean 2:2:1 (solid:semi-solid:liquid)?

SparkySolar5 months ago

Thank you for your Instructable

Nice job.


SparkySolar5 months ago

I may be home bound soon, ( me daughters car had an electrical fire, now we sharing car.$

So I am looking for everything to make myself

Thank you


isdsb6 months ago

thanks! does this darken the leather?

antagonizer (author)  isdsb6 months ago

It does a bit, especially if the leather is really dry. Best to try it on a hidden patch first.

sl035608 months ago

can I use anything besides almond oil? I have several people allergic to almonds

antagonizer (author)  sl035608 months ago

Nut oils like walnut are generally the preferred choice, but if nut allergies are an issue, then any of the seed oils, like grape seed or sunflour would work, tho keep an eye on their shelf life. If you want to get away from organic oils, altogether, you can use a light mineral oil since it's hypoallergenic and has no shelf life. Olive oil isn't bad, but vegetable is a definite no.

jnichols61 year ago

Any ideas on a substitute for the coconut? I have a mate who's a leatherworker who is highly allergic to coconut...

I would recommend Shea and/or Cocoa Butter; they are both very similar in their attributes.

antagonizer (author)  Eluinn1 year ago

What Eluinn said. Tho, I would use the Shea butter over the cocoa butter. I've had some issues with cocoa butter, in the past, and simply discontinued using it.

rhallen1 year ago

Great instructable -- this is something I've been wanting to do for a long time. Just one question: What about colored polishes? Do you have any suggestions for what to add and in what quantities (particularly for black and brown)?

Erm, sorry, missed your reply to tummygrowl before posting.... Still, is dye the way to go, or are there other coloring agents I should consider?

antagonizer (author)  rhallen1 year ago

I've only tried it with Feibings leather dye, and only in very small quantities. If you do try something else, I'd suggest only using coloring agents that saturate naturally into leather or else you could end up wearing it on your pant cuff. If you do experiment, let me know. I'm interested in what other people come up with.

I've had good success using children's crayons as a coloring agent in all kinds of oil based cosmetics, like greasepaint and lipstick. You might give it a try for this polish and see if it works.

antagonizer (author)  linuxnewbie1 year ago

Crayons are made with paraffin wax. I've never tried them, tho I wouldn't recommend using them unless beeswax is hard to find in your area.

Antagonizer, you may have missed the point. I proposed using crayons as a coloring agent, not as substitute for beeswax. In preparing cosmetics that use beeswax, I've melted small quantities of crayons into the mix in order to provide color.

Also, when I was in the Army, we would deliberately set a small amount of polish on fire (Dangerous, please use extreme caution!) so that the soot would intensify the black color in our boot polish.

Hope that clarifies things.

p.s. checking around, I found an instructable that may illustrate the process-

antagonizer (author)  linuxnewbie1 year ago

linuxnewbie, I've heard that they use it in the army, and I agree it would be good in a pinch for sure. My meaning was that paraffin based waxes are very bad for leather. Many of my early experiments, when I first started doing leather, involved paraffin/petroleum based products. Rather than sealing in the natural oils, they actually wick them out, and over time, damage the leather. I have an arrow quiver that was severely hardened and almost unrecoverable because of it. I ended up having to strip, and re-dye it. Again, it's a fantastic short term solution tho.

Be careful using vegetable oils, they will go rancid. Also, I don't want to be critical, but many of your statements on oils are inaccurate. Mineral oil is actually great in that it won't go rancid.

antagonizer (author)  outworldarts1 year ago


1 - Almonds and castor beans are both legumes not vegetables while coconut is all three catagories.

2 - shelf life of almond oil is 9-12 months

3 - shelf life of castor oil is 12+ months

4 - shelf life of coconut butter/oil is 12+ months

5 - shelf life of beeswax...indefinite

6 - mineral oil is a petroleum distillate and is suspected of being carcinogenic. Either way, it's not very natural.

7 - it's not being eaten. It's polish, however if you wanted to eat it, it'll last over a year unrefrigerated.

Hope that clears it up for you.

Going rancid doesn't just effect if its being eaten. Its one of the first signs of a natural product rotting and can smell bad. I'm sure you been playing with leather a lot longer than me but I'm not gonna rub anything that stinks and is rotting on my leather. Then again before I learned any better the ranch hands taught me to use olive oil to bring leather back from being dried out and they used it on everything. On heavily used items where it wears out fast I still use it.

antagonizer (author)  neo716651 year ago

Olive oil works great to condition leather, tho I wouldn't use it in heavy amounts. However without the beeswax sealant, you'll find you're re-applying more often than you should. Honestly, I'd stay away from oils that are extracted from fruit and vegetables and only work with legume oils.

Oxidation is what makes the oils go rancid. In a liquid state, oxygen can easily diffuse through the oil and cause a whole bottle to go rancid. However, beeswax is almost as good at stopping the penetration of oxygen as the plastic containers that cheese and cold-cuts come in at the supermarket. The other ingredients mixed into the beeswax will probably compromise this somewhat, but still, I'm pretty sure you'll find that this prevents oxidation (i.e., rancidification) of the oils mixed into the beeswax, provided they are well mixed.

If you don't use your polish for very long time perhaps you'll eventually get a thin rancid layer on the top (which is exposed to oxygen), but I suspect you could wipe that away and carry on. And if you're using the polish so infrequently then it probably isn't worth your time to make it yourself in the first place....

Mind you, I am speculating a bit here -- I have not performed a real-life verification test or anything. But in my day job I do a lot of chemistry and physics and I think I'm on pretty solid footing here.

tummygrowl1 year ago
This is great. Thanks for the post. Have you tried anything with the addition on dye?
antagonizer (author)  tummygrowl1 year ago

If you mean dye in the polish, yes, but I'd only use it on shoes. Feibings works well, you just need to add more solids to compensate for the liquid.

hugoforte1 year ago

Do you sell your special blend, and if so where?

antagonizer (author)  hugoforte1 year ago

I do through my facebook page, but being from Canada, shipping to the US can be costly, unless it's in quantity. That's partially why I decided to share the recipe on instructables. If you want to look anyway, you can check out my work at;

aspiehler1 year ago

I enjoyed this Instructable and will probably try making my own polish to give out as gifts.

A suggestion: your ratios paragraph is a little confusing. First you list your ingredient categories in the order solids, semi-solids, liquids, but then switch the ratios to liquids, solids, semi-solids, but then go back to the original order when the ingredients are used. Also It would also be clearer to list dimensionless ratios in whole numbers, so instead of 2:1/2:1/2 you have 4:1:1.

antagonizer (author)  aspiehler1 year ago

I agree that the order can be confusing to some and may change it, however the ratios are purposely done that way because, in the past, people I've taught have treated the recipe as literally 4:1, lumping the solids and semi-solids in the same catagory. I've just found it's less confusing for people who aren't good at ratios.

Rasmis1 year ago

Nice recipe. I will try it out. A bit of advice: You can use an oven, if you are too lazy to do the pie-tin-lid-bain-marie-hack.

Background: I recently bought beeswax and shea butter to make a paw protection creme for my dog. (Because I live too remote to have some readymade mix delivered, but not too remote to order beeswax and shea butter :-S)

I cleaned out an old mustard glass, popped in the ingredients (wax, butter, oil), and gave it 5-10 minutes, while warming the oven to 170°C to cook dinner. Worked perfectly.

Question: I don't have coconut butter, but I do have the shea stuff. Could it be used instead?

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