Okay so the Title is indeed a bit of a mouthful lol !

Ive been needing to mess around with a desire for MORE Input/Output pins than the Arduino UNO and nowadays the UNO uses an Atmega328 microcontroller, & its limited to only about 20 Input/Output pins :-(

Well if you've been messing around with Breadboard Arduino-UNO setups using the Atmega328 microcontrollers but you need MORE GPIO's (General Purpose Input/Output) Pins without spending alotta cash on an Arduino MEGA, well, then this is also just for you !

Also everytime i find any "Official Instructions for Anything Arduino" there are either NO pictures or theres only one picture of each step but if theres anyone who's only just learning then its not so obvious what things are connected to on a breadboard setup photo so i have made this Guide to show extremely clear and detailed photo's of how this setup is connected up on a breadboard !

This is a comparison guide of a microcontroller in-between the Arduino UNO and MEGA, most of you folks may have heard of the Sanguino  right?!? Well this Arduino-Compatible Variant uses the Atmega1284P-PU microcontroller (The Sanguino predecessor of this was the Atmega644 !) and this MIGHTY microcontroller packs a GREAT feature list when compared to the humble Arduino UNO's Atmega328 microcontroller:

Okay so this is a real-quick setup of a Mighty1284 Arduino-Compatible Kit, aimed at Intermediate to Advanced Arduino Users who need a bit more from Breadboard'ing/Protoboard'ing with regards to MORE I/O Pins !

My 1st Arduino Breadboard Guide deals with How to make the Basic Arduino UNO & has all the training and background steps including alternative component choices so this Guide is only going to concentrate on getting the Arduino IDE Software modified Quickly, Easily and to get this Kit Setup on a Prototype Board (aka Breadboard, lol !) and in only a few short but sweet steps !

This is also assuming that you've sourced all the parts needed, and this is more for my reference and so when i do forget how to get this all done and setup, it will always be here for all (including myself, lol x 2 !) to see and explore !

All these components are commonly available through ebay, my favorite electronics superstore, lol, but sometimes it is cheaper to actually go to an actual electronics supplier either online or local town (if your town is lucky to have an electronics store that sells microcontrollers !)

Okay so for this Breadboard Kit, you get the following in a bare-bones package essential to get it up and running but with reverse polarity protection & status LED's: (The Numbers in brackets indicates Quantity)

(1) ATMEGA Chip: ATMEGA1284P-PU - Supplied with the "Mighty1284 Bootloader" Pre-Loaded
(2) 0.1uF Ceramic Capacitors
(2) 47uF Electrolytic Capacitors
(2) 22pF Ceramic Capacitors
(1) 16 Mhz Quartz Crystal (or 20 Mhz !)
(2) 1k Resistors, 1% Tolerance or 5% Tolerance
(2) 10k Resistors, 1% Tolerance or 5% Tolerance
(1) 1N4004 Voltage Protection Diode
(1) 3mm LED 1                                        BLUE (For Loading Blink Sketch)
(1) 3mm LED 2                                        GREEN (Power-On LED)
(1) Tactile Push Switch (6mm x 3mm) 
(1) 5v Voltage Regulator (for the sake of this Guide i am using a 300mA {0.3A} Regulator !)
            Which is GREAT For Low-Power Battery Operated Projects!

DO NOT USE The Voltage Regulator if You Are Powering this Breadboard Setup Via The USB Adapter
- Instead join the 5v and GND wires from the USB Adapter to the POWER RAILS of the breadboard - Sorted !

Essentials (Do Not Proceed without this Stuff !):

***   Anti-Static Wrist Strap & Grounding Cord   ***   IF you DONT have an Anti-Static Wrist Strap, you Risk your Microcontroller Being Damaged Beyond any Kind of Repair Through Static Discharge from you - Best be safe than sorry here... !

***   Something To "Ground Yourself-To" Using the Grounding-Cord !   ***

ESD Knowledge

Single Core Wire, 0.6/0.8mm
USB TTL to Serial Converter Adapter ( I will use a cheap but modified PL2303 Module, Modified to Upload Sketches Automatically ! )
Power Source ( Either from 9 to 12v if using Mains/Battery-Pack with use of the Voltage Regulator OR Supplying Power through the USB Module ! )


Small Needle-Nose Pliers
Wire Strippers OR Stanley/Xacto Knife
Voltmeter or DMM (Digital MultiMeter)

These tools are not all essential but are extremely handy for fault-finding where possible problems are, should anyone encounter any, & at all times, Double-Check, Tripple-Check --- Then CHECK AGAIN BEFORE APPLYING POWER to anything setup on a breadboard and at this point.....


I am NOT Responsible for any Negligence or failure to follow simple health & safety procedures of any tools or Safeguarding Against Any ESD Electronics Sensitive Components that would cause you to unknowingly or accidentally damaging either yourselves or your components & to make sure you know EXACTLY what you are doing when prototyping with electricity, sharp objects & any tools you possess, Please do so with a good measure of common sense - If under-age, make sure an Adult is Supervising you at all times.

Now with all that out the way, lets begin constructing this on the breadboard !

I am using an 830 Tie Point Breadboard but will only use up half of the space so that the rest can be used for your prototyping area to have fun with this exciting microcontroller!

Step 1: Step 1 - The Power Supply

Okay so we will start off with the Power Supply Section, remembering that the way im doing this is to Ultimately save space on your Breadboard but if your well-seasoned with building breadboard circuits, please do as you require !

1st of all, Try to Keep the BLACK & RED Power wires as the same colours as in this Guide because this just makes it easier to see very clearly & quickly if a wrong connection has been made so that it will further aid you in troubleshooting later, in case something was inserted incorrectly, but this breadboard setup has been thoroughly tested and has been tripple to quadruple-checked and then checked once more because overkill is so under-rated & for peace of my mind lol !

Look at the pics below, left and right, start by inserting the RED & BLACK power lines exactly as shown:

Also See that ive marked the breadboard holes with my sharpie pens - Where the INPUT VOLTAGE wires will need to get inserted into - so whether you are using a battery pack or mains DC Voltage, this is where it would need to enter, use only the RECOMMENDED 9v to 12v of input voltage as this will NEVER put a strain on the voltage regulator !

Now follow the next pics below, add the 5v Voltage Regulator, this one is a Low Power Version, Perfect for battery operated projects!

Looking at the regulator as its sitting in the breadboard in the below pics, from left to right the pins are:

                                     INPUT         --- GND ---          OUTPUT


Now to add the Green Power LED, its 1K Resistor and the BLACK Wire going to the GND rail on the breadboard:


The Lower left pic is showing that there is the flat notch on the LED, that is the NEGATIVE side of the LED so this will need to be placed as shown and the pic on the Lower right is showing the addition of two wires, RED & BLACK connecting the upper and lower power rails of the breadboard together:


Next Add the 1st Electrolytic Capacitor making DOUBLE SURE that the NEGATIVE Side is actually going into the NEGATIVE power rail of the breadboard or capacitors could EXPLODE so do make sure this is checked over a few times lol ! I'll start by placing the Cap (Capacitor!) at the back of the Voltage regulator so these two pics below are from a different angle:


All Cap's have a dotted line (Dashes Actually, if you wanna nit-pick lol) going down the side of the NEGATIVE Lead section on their bodies so just look out for that as & when your inserting them! Also at this time i'll point out that i like to cut all components leads as short as possible, just so that they will sit flush with the breadboard so they dont ever get accidentally yanked-out by a stray wire being hooked up to any of the connection pins later when prototyping !

& Now for the Front Cap:


Now your breadboard should look like this, below:

Now you should just give everything a quick check to make sure it is all correct as now we will test this power section, i will do this by adding a battery-pack to the INPUT holes on the breadboard that i had marked with a RED & BLACK sharpie earlier:

I have also added a SPST Switch to my battery pack, the same battery pack used in my 1st instructable of the Arduino UNO on Breadboard (the Breduino, lol !) so that i can hook everything up, re-check everything is good and when im happy with it all, flip the switch and the Green Status LED Should light up but at this point use your DMM (Digital Multimeter) to make sure that the OUTPUT pin of the voltage regulator is definitely giving out 5v or very close to 5v !


Now you have a Working Power Section !

Onto the Next Setcion - The Microcontroller !
<p>Another thing (besides below comment) I&rsquo;ve discovered worth mentioning: When you use the SERVO library, the PWM on PWM PINS: D12 and D13 do not work. The SERVO Library probably uses a timer that&rsquo;s conflicting with the PWM on those pins.</p><p>So, if you use the SERVO Library, don&rsquo;t use &ldquo;analogWrite&rdquo; on PIN D12 and D13</p>
<p>There&rsquo;s an mistake in the assignments of the interrupt pins. In the above image the interrupts are on PIN 0, PIN 1 and PIN 2. THAT&rsquo;S WRONG. The interrupt pins are PIN 2, PIN 10 and PIN 11.<br>But, if you want to use &ldquo;attachInterrupt()&rdquo;you address them with their interrupt numbers, NOT their PIN numbers. INTERRUPT 0 = PIN 10, INTERRUPT 1 = PIN 11, INTERRUPT 2 = PIN 2.<br>Example: If you want to attach an interrupt on PIN 10, the code is: &ldquo;attachInterrupt(0 , FunctionToBeExecuted, RISING);&rdquo;<br><br>Anyhow, thanks for the tutorial! Helped me a lot. Love the 1284P especially if you want to use graphical LCD&rsquo;s with memory hungry icons.</p>
Sorrry, I upload twice the picture ;)
lol no worries! ;-) <br> <br>I only charge what Royal Mail Charge me for postage and the padded envelopes are always over 25mm thick so its &pound;3 for postage and &pound;0.50 for envelope, fragile stickers, address labels etc ! <br> <br>so far, no one does better ;-)
The kit with 3 ATmega is most interesant for my, but :
You sell a kit with 5 ATMega, I use only 1.
lol ! Yaa i stopped selling singles a long time ago, sorry ! <br> <br>At least with a 3-Pack of atmega's you get one for your project and another 2 for another 2 projects ! <br> <br>;-)
I found this 2 kit with the oscillator, the ATmega 328 and the to small 22 pF caps. <br> <br>http://www.ebay.fr/itm/K034-Atmel-ATMEGA-328-328P-PU-Arduino-Duemilanove-bootloader-XTAL-22pf-cap-/321148016763?pt=UK_Computing_Other_Computing_Networking&amp;hash=item4ac5e9d87b#ht_2247wt_1183 <br> <br>http://www.ebay.fr/itm/K035-Atmel-ATMEGA-328-328P-PU-with-Arduino-UNO-Opti-bootloader-XTAL-22pf-cap-/221244023419?pt=UK_Computing_Other_Computing_Networking&amp;hash=item33832be27b#ht_2247wt_1451
Try the links now ! <br> <br>Yaa i unfortunately dont sell single Atmega chips unless its the Atmega1284P-PU ! <br> <br>All the microcontroller packs i sell also come with capacitors and crystals ;-) <br> <br>Also choice of either Duemilanove, UNO, or the special 3.3v Arduino Pro Low Power Bootloader ! <br> <br>Normally only for the UK but i have clients in France, Miers ! takes about 5-7 days ! <br> <br>Due to the location of posting (Because France is so much larger than UK, some places cost more to post to for me because i am a New Seller on ebay, Almost 1 Year Old Seller !)
Ok, thanks. When I open your links I have this from Ebay : Unfortunately, access to this particular item has been blocked due to legal restrictions in some countries. We are blocking your viewing in an effort to prevent restricted items from being displayed. Regrettably, in some cases, we may prevent users from accessing items that are not within the scope of said restrictions because of limitations of existing technology. Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience this may cause, and we hope you may find other items of interest on eBay. But i try to found the equivalent in a French website ;). <br> <br>
Finaly, I think I went to use the ATMega 1284, It has 32 inpout/outpout, the 328 has only 23 inpout/outpout.
Also i am cheaper than Farnell ***And*** my Atmega1284P-PU chips come with the instructions and Bootloader already loaded lol ;-)<br> <br> Same with the Atmega328P-PU's !<br> <br> Here's my selection of breadboard kits but of course if you just want the Chips then it is cheaper !<br> <br> <a href="http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Fully-Loaded-Systems/Breadboard-Kits-/_i.html?_fsub=3707893017&_sid=969719817&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322" rel="nofollow">Breadboard Kits</a><br> <br> <a href="http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Fully-Loaded-Systems/Microcontroller-Packs-/_i.html?_fsub=3707897017&_sid=969719817&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322" rel="nofollow">Microcontroller Packs</a><br> <br> You will still need to get a bootloader loaded onto any Atmega chip if you buy from anywhere else and my postage to France is only &pound;3 GBP ;-)<br> <br> Unless you want to try to get the bootloader onto the chip yourself, then you will need this tutorial:<br> <br> <a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP" rel="nofollow">Arduino As ISP</a>&nbsp;<br> <br> As for the 16Mhz crystal, just do a google search for what devices would contain a 16 Mhz crystal !<br> <br> Or post the question in the Arduino Forums ;-)<br> <br> If you get as far as making this circuit out of balsa wood and graphite i would be very amazed, i will be looking forward to that ;-) Good Luck ;-)<br>
Before making the PCB, i would test my idea on a simple circuit (and, why not, post an article about this method). For the cristal, you now were I can found a 16 or 20 MHz cristal (that must be in old device) ? I saw the datasheet and they said to put a cristal between 0.04 and 20 MHz for the ATMega. ATMega328 is chiper than the 1284, I think I went to use the 328, thanks for information.
Can I use a some varnish to cover the circuit board (that must be a common devise). I will try to found a 20 MHz, or a 16 MHz quartz cristal. for the Atmega, I want buy this one : http://fr.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1715481&amp;CMP=KNC-GFR-FFR-GEN-SKU-MARGIN&amp;mckv=ssyHhE96J|pcrid|15868866182|kword|atmega1284p-pu|match|p|plid| <br>It's a Atmega 1284P-PU <br>Herre you have the datasheet : http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1695247.pdf
Yaa that sounds like a good way of sealing the components in place but you will need to be very very careful not to move the components whilst the varnish is drying, personally i dont think this approach will work but you would be welcome to try and i would definitely sit corrected if you manage to get it to work ! <br> <br>You will need to make sure there is a 100% connection between the graphite and the components legs before you apply any varnish, maybe super-gluing the body of the component into place would help ? <br> <br>Alternatively you could even try making your own conductive glue by shaving a pencil's graphite and mixing it with a drop of varnish ??? try this out on a small simple circuit to see if this works, you might need alot of graphite dust !!! <br> <br>As with the crystal, best to find/use a 16 Mhz, not 20Mhz unless you know how to put a bootloader on this Atmega1284 ? <br> <br>Is there any specific purpose you need an Atmega1284 compared with an Atmega328 ?!?
I think about a very simple PCB. I want to make a simple project, in the D.I.Y method for PCB, you must buy the Ferric Chloride solution. I want to make the PCB with a piece of wood (1 or 2 mm, balsa or other wood), and draw the circuit with a graphite pencil, I drill some holes for the componants, and that's make ! Can I use a 27 MHz quartz cristal, I can't found a 16 or 20 MHz ?
Yaa the problem with a graphic pencil circuit (paper circuit method) is that the connections for the components could be easily knocked off or become loose and this would make the whole circuit not work if even one leg of one resistor was loose - unless you used conductive glue ! Then it would work !<br><br>I use ferric chloride all the time, every week and never had any problems with it, always wear disposable gloves and eye protection and never had it stain, spill or destroy anything lol ! each to their own i guess lol !<br><br>As for the Atmega Crystal, no, a 27Mhz will not work...<br><br>The MAX would be a 20Mhz BUT the Atmega must have the bootloader to tell it to use a 20Mhz crystal...<br><br>16Mhz crystal is always the standard so this would work without messing around with the bootloader...<br><br>What Atmega chip are you using ?<br><br>Are you using the Atmega328 or Atmega1284 ??
Ok, thanks, I hope to find the datasheet of my old computer (Asus, maybee 10 years old).
Lastly, lol, heres the original schematic that the very early Arduino Boards used when they were using the olden-day serial ports on old computers, you will only need a bunch or standard discrete components, the only IC would be the voltage regulator, if one calls that an IC lol:<br> <br> http://webzone.k3.mah.se/k3dacu/arduino/releases/serial_v1/arduino_serial_v1.png<br> <br> So as long as you test out the reclaimed 5v voltage regulator from whatever old parts your taking components from, this looks like how they used to do this in the very very early Arduino designs !<br> <br> Also, question:<br> Do you make your own homebrew circuitboards ?!? (PCB's ?)<br> <br> Would be a perfect starter project for you to make on single sided copperclad board for your very own Olden-Day Serial to Arduino Adapter !!
PS: <br>you will need to register on the Arduino forums to see the pictures and schematic or they will be hidden, free to register lol
Check out the forum topic now, full schematic to achieve what you want to do without complicated IC's !! lol <br> <br>i know i will be aquiring an old computer for this now lol ! (not got an old computer with a serial port LOL !) <br> <br>Enjoy !
well i started an Arduino Forum topic relating to your Quest to use the serial port connection of an old computer, you can check it out here:<br> <br> Someone has already uploaded a schematic of using just transistors and resistors but i wouldnt know if this would work or cause damage to your microcontroller but then i am just learning electronics myself so couldnt say if it worked or not but i will try to find out !<br> <br> Here is the arduino forum post i have started:<br> <br> <a href="http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=173317.0" rel="nofollow">http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=173317.0</a>
Ok, thanks.
All the parts were found in old stuf exept the Atmega and the breadboard.
Ahhh i see what your trying to do, this is an awesome approach to recycling out old technology and i will try to help as much as i can as its as i said, an awesome way your trying to do this ! <br> <br>Okay, so if your going to be using the serial port, you will still need an IC that will convert the serial communications of the computer's serial port to the language of the Atmega chip on the breadboard..... <br> <br>The language of the Atmega chip is called TTL - Transistor Transistor Logic. <br> <br>So, if the aim is to use old devices to take parts from, you need to find out what old devices you have that are computer serial devices and have IC's soldered inside them, you will need to read out the model numbers on them and google search their datasheets and look for an IC similar to the MAX232 which is the Serial-To-TTL converter chip. <br> <br>Without this kind of chip i would think that im correct in saying that no one would be able to upload anything to any microcontroller in the world without a Serial to TTL converter chip, ive just posted this question in the official Arduino Forums and will do the same here on instructables too when i get the time, unless you have already ?
Yes, but I want to make this project with only stuf found in old devises. can i limit the voltage of the serial cable with a regulator, a resistor or something like this ?
Yes, I want connect the serial port of an old computeur directly on the breadbord with a cable like this : http://pmcdn.priceminister.com/photo/830605757_L.jpg (I cut one end and connect the wires in the cable direcly to the breadboard.) Sorry for my english, I'm French and I don't use any translators).
Oops, Sorry i forgot to mention, ive just found out that a computer's Serial Port uses 12 VOLTS - DO NOT USE THIS DIRECTLY !!!!!!! <br> <br>YOU CAN BLOW THE ATMEGA CHIP AND DESTROY IT PERMANENTLY !!! <br> <br>These Atmega Chips can use a MAX of only 5.5v ! <br> <br>Get yourself a USB TTL to Serial Converter, much safer and easier ! <br> <br>I also sell this kit from here: <br> <br>http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=321105030774&amp;ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
Can I connect a normal serial directly on the breadboard ?
Im not too sure what you mean by normal serial ?<br><br>Do you mean a direct connection between a computer's actual serial port that looks like this:<br><br>http://ergocanada.com/ergo/tips/serial_port.jpg<br><br>to your breadboard arduino hardware or do you mean to use a 'USB' TTL to Serial Adapter that looks like this:<br><br>https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQxEo7xwI4PZu3lFo9RdzzTsIxcyjSoKvuhw-vDwll78Ks3_dqV
how much do all the parts for this project cost?

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