Step 2: The Microcontroller ! Introducing the Atmega1284P-PU MONSTER-KILLER ! lol
So with WRIST-STRAP on, place the MCU like so:
i have also created some pin description labels for these MCU's so immediately stuck one to the MCU so that prototyping with its pins is going to be ultimately quicker and easier and at this point you want to add the TWO 0.1uF Ceramic Caps to the MCU's pins as shown below:
With that done, now its time to add the 16 Mhz Crystal, TWO 22pF Caps and a GND wire, check out these next 4 pics below in sequence and follow exactly:
& Now to add the wires to connect the 16 Mhz Crystal & Caps to the XTL1 & XTL2 pins on the MCU: (Below)
Now add a Blue LED & a 1K Resistor to the other side of the MCU:
Also carefully Observe the Flat-Notch on the side of the LED, this is the Cathode or NEGATIVE side so this wants to be connected to GND which i will come to in a minute!
Now i like to use these same colours whenever im making the circuit lines for the Reset Switch, i cut a piece of single core wire and bent it as shown in the pic Below-Left and then inserted it so that the way its been bent wont be hindered by the already present wires:
Also add a 10K Resistor to the RESET pin of the MCU and connect it to the Lower Breadboard POSITIVE RAIL:
Now add a 6mm x 3mm Tactile Momentary Switch, i chose this type of switch specifically because its thinner, takes up less space on a breadboard and less complicated than its usual 6mm x 6mm square brother which has 4 pins, this thinner version only has 2 so its kinda fool-proof to use too, lol !
So add the switch to the Green wire that was just placed into the breadboard, then the other side of the switch to the GND Pin of the Voltage Regulator (MIDDLE Pin!) as that was a nice tidy & out-of-the-way connection to make about here: (Below)
Also Add two POSITIVE & two NEGATIVE wires for powering the MCU from the breadboard Power Rails, shown below-right:
And finally the last two connections that need to be made, is the GND wire for the Blue LED which is shown below-left, and also i always like to add some kind of voltage protection in with these types of circuits so i will be adding a 1N4004 Reverse Polarity Protection Diode and this will DIRECTLY Replace the INPUT POSITIVE wire that goes to the INPUT Leg of the Voltage Regulator which is shown in the below-right pic:
CAREFULLY OBSERVE which direction the "Stripe" on the Protection Diode is pointing towards when connecting it, please make DOUBLE SURE it is the right way - what this does is protect the voltage regulator from accidentally connecting up the wrong polarity INPUT voltage so just in case you or i had placed the POSITIVE INPUT Lead on the NEGATIVE and vice versa, then there wouldn't be any damage caused!
And thats it !
Quite nice and easy with these pin description labels, so now your breadboard should look like this:
You should have taken about half of the breadboard, Now you can use the other half for your prototyping needs, but theres just one more thing to do and thats to upload a test sketch to this breadboard setup so that we know for 100% sure that it is all connected okay and you will be able to continue with your own Arduino Projects!
Here's a look at the full breadboard:
Onto the next & final Section - Uploading a test sketch to the MIGHTY1284P-PU ('P' indicates "Pico-Power" and the 'PU' refers to the Plastic DIP Package of this MCU !) Arduino Compatible Breadboard Setup, The Mighty1284 for short lol !