Step 3: Section 3 - Uploading Sketches With 3 Different USB Modules!

Section 3 - Uploading Sketches with 3 Different USB Modules!

Now we will upload the 'Blink' sketch to the Breduino using Three different USB modules (These are the only ones i have !) and show how to connect these upto  the Breduino and the pins needed to Upload Sketches:

The test Sketch we will be using is called 'Blink' and is found in the Arduino IDE under; FILE>EXAMPLES>BASICS>BLINK - this is the sketch we will use to upload to the Breduino !

The 'Blink' Sketch is a batch of instructions (Arduino Code) that will enable any Arduino-Based Hardware to Flash (or 'Blink') an LED that is Connected to PIN 13 of an Arduino/Arduino Compatible (Breduino!) and will flash the LED every 1000ms (ms=milliseconds) so basically every 1 second but this can be changed in the sketch to suit you!

Here are are a few of locations to find the correct Drivers for the USB Modules that i have used to Upload sketches:

FTDI Driver (Choose from: Windows, Mac, Linux)
PL2303 Driver (Choose from: Windows, Mac, Linux)
CP2102 Driver (Choose from: Windows, Mac, Linux)

Arduino IDE - Integrated Development Environment (Software) {Im using version 1.0.1 at the time of this instructable !}

NB: When on the Prolific Website to Download the Driver for the PL2303 USB Module , if ever asked to sign-in, just use their default Log-in Details:
Username: GUEST
Password: GUEST

When you want to see a Full-Size picture in this instructable, just click on the little pencil icon that appears on the TOP-LEFT hand corner of any Picture in the pictures list Just After the Step number, eg, Step 1, Step 2, Step 3 and find the picture in the list you want to enlarge from my references in my notes and then on the next page that opens up click the link just under the picture next to the words "original file:" and it will open up FULL SCREEN and show you all the glory of a nice beautiful high resolution image!! (BUT!!! if ANY of my pictures are NOT-CLEAR please please please tell me which picture & under which step and i will correct the fuzzy picture if any, many thanks!)


This has "Software RESET" capability {SEE NOTE1 after the instructable!} - so no more manually pressing the reset button when uploading sketches & no more 'Precisely Timing' the annoyingly-difficult time it takes to Press the Arduino's RESET Button (The Manual Reset- Way)...

Although this has the Auto-Reset feature it is a tad expensive.

The PL2303

The picture above is from a PL2303 module i modified to take advantage of the "Automatic Reset" of Uploading Sketches (Software Reset) so all you'd need to do is hit the Upload Button on the Arduino IDE Software and sit-back until your sketch uploads! See end of this Guide to find out how to get one thats already modified or if you'd like to modify it yourself then the link to those instructions are there too!!!)

This PL2303 USB Module isnt the easiest to modify as it involves soldering a capacitor leg to a very fine pitch SMD IC but if you can get your hands on some casting resin, this is what you can do with it, heres what ive done to protect the fine-pitch soldering on the PL2303 modules:

Also changed the Red power LED to a Blue one too !

The CP2102

The one pictured has already been modified for Auto Sketch Uploading but this module is the easiest out of all these USB TTL to Serial Modules to modify for Automatic Sketch Uploading, my modules now come heatshrink protected (Only the Auto-Reset Modules !) and as always with most of my gear, instructions are provided where needed !

These DONT come configured for Auto-Reset as standard (i Configure and solder the SMD parts myself) and if you havent bought a specific "AUTO-RESET-ENABLED" CP2102 Module then you will need to make the modifications on this board yourself, and you must use a 0.1uF Capacitor on the Reset Pin of the microcontroller - all parts needed are always supplied as well as the instructions being emailed to you ;-)Look for the CP2102 Modification you need to do to the Standard CP2102 Module at the end of this guide before the "Troubleshooting" Section !

If your CP2102 Module DOES NOT have heatshrink on it (Recently Coming with Heatshrink as Standard now) then its not configured for Auto-Reset unless you bought an Auto-Reset-Enabled CP2102 Module !!!

First we'll start Uploading the Usual 'Blink' Sketch Found in the Arduino IDE and using the Cheaper PL2303 USB Adapter:
Okay check out the picture Below - i have written onto the side of my breadboard the Exact-Pin-Connections You will need to enable you to Upload Sketches and Connect up the USB Adapter (PL2302)!

The picture below shows the RESET PIN on the Breduino along with the -, +, RX & TX on the left on the breadboard !

Now look at the pictures Below on all 3 of the USB Modules, their pin connections are always used in the same way to connect to your Breduino, just be sure that you connect up the correct pins to the breadboard!

For the modified PL2303 module(middle photo) Observe the Pin Connections and look at the very top Pin (The Soldered Extra Pin in GOLD , above the 3V3 Pin) - That is the Reset Pin that will need to be connected to the RESET Pin on the Breduino!

Basically you connect the pins like-for-like as shown Below:


USB BUBII                           Breduino:
DTR                            To      RESET PIN
3v3 (This is 3.3v)      To      NC * (See Note1)
VCC (This is 5v)       To       RED + Sign PIN on Breduino * (See Note1)
TXD                             To      TX
RXD                            To      RX
GND                           To       BLACK - Sign on Breduino

PL2303:                                    Breduino:
3v3 (This is 3.3v)         To        NC * (See Note1)
VCC (This is 5v)          To        RED + Sign PIN on Breduino * (See Note1)
TXD                                To        TX
RXD                               To        RX
GND                              To         BLACK - Sign on Breduino

CP2102:                                  Breduino:
RST                            To         RESET PIN
3v3 (This is 3.3v)      To        NC * (See Note1)
VCC (This is 5v)       To         RED + Sign PIN on Breduino * (See Note1)
TXD                             To        TX
RXD                            To        RX
GND                            To        BLACK - Sign on Breduino

CP2102:                                  Breduino:

DTR PIN***                To         RESET PIN ***VIA A 0.1uF Capacitor !!!
3v3 (This is 3.3v)      To        NC * (See Note1)
VCC (This is 5v)       To         RED + Sign PIN on Breduino * (See Note1)
TXD                             To        TX
RXD                            To        RX
GND                            To        BLACK - Sign on Breduino

The Reason im choosing to power up the Breduino with the USB Module's 5v Output is just out of happenstance and you could just as easily substitute the 5v connection for the 3.3v Pin on any of the Modules Instead as it will work either way because the ATMEGA328P-PU Microcontroller is able to work from a range of 1.8 Volts to 5.5 Volts... (info found in the ATMEGA Chip's Datasheet!) ***BUT*** for 3.3v operation you will need to use the 3.3v Bootloader on the Atmega328 and also an 8Mhz Crystal !

Okay so now check a Third & Final time, after Checking of all the connections (CHECK, DOUBLE-CHECK and TRIPPLE-CHECK Every wire link & connection!) Open up the Arduino IDE software BEFORE plugging in any USB module and just Check a few settings to make this will work first-time !

Firstly we must select the correct 'Board' in the Arduino IDE, Look at the picture Below (Picture 8) and make sure that Under:
Tools>Board>Arduino Uno is selected... (My Kits all have the Arduino UNO Bootloader & others bootloaded upon request!)

Now you must select the correct "COM" PORT so the Arduino IDE will know exactly where the PL2303 USB Module is and where to send the sketch so after opening up the Arduino IDE just look at the picture Below, my computer didnt have any 'COM' PORTS in-use until i inserted the USB Module so i did that just to show you that a COM PORT will show-up in the Arduino IDE and you must select it and make sure there is a 'TICK' next to the COM PORT number as shown, mine is COM9...

But if you do have a few COM PORTS in use, just simply disconnect all wires from the USB Module and insert it in a free USB Port on your computer and see what COM PORTS open up in the Arduino IDE, then disconnect the USB Module from your computer and when the COM PORT Disappears from the
Arduino IDE then you will have found the correct COM-PORT-Number that is assigned to your USB Module !

Next look at the picture Below and make sure that the 'Programmer' is set to AVRISP mkII - from what ive seen in the few short weeks of learning about the Arduino IDE Software is that this setting is already set to AVRISP mkII but just in case it isnt, no harm in checking !

After you've re-connected up all the wires from the USB Module to the Breduino again and BEFORE PLUGGING IN THE USB ADAPTER INTO A USB PORT --
- PHYSICALLY GO OVER THIS ENTIRE GUIDE AGAIN TO MAKE TRIPPLE-SURE ALL CONNECTIONS ARE CORRECT and that you have the Correct Polarity of components inserted the right way round into your breadboard like diode, LED's, voltage regulator, capacitors etc to avoid any problems/damage/errors to the Breduino or your USB Module !

I have followed this exact Guide and made another Breduino so now have TWO Breduino's that have the blink sketch uploaded to them and the PIN13 LED blinking away on both of them successfully so i know that this all works!(and constructive criticism is always welcome if you'd like to leave a comment below or Rate this a generous 5-stars or however many you think this guide deserves, i would be deeply honoured & grateful by this gesture!)

Now look at the picture Below, this is the location you will find the 'Blink' Sketch - select this Sketch and another Arduino IDE Window will open-up as shown in the pictures below...

NOW CONNECT the USB Adapter to a free USB Port on your computer and just double check that all the settings you've just gone through are still all selected and everything's ok ! ! !

Then click on the 'Verify' button which is the 1st Circle Shaped-Button (Under 'File') and it has a 'TICK' on it, After its been Verified, Click the 'Upload' Button right next to the Verify button as shown in the pictures Below:

if you've connected it all correctly the Arduino IDE Software will go through the process of 'Compiling' the Sketch and as soon as thats done it will start Uploading to the ATMEGA328P-PU Microcontroller that is sitting on the Breadboard and all you need to do is Sit-Back and watch the magic happen WITHOUT Timing however many seconds it takes to "Manually press the RESET Button" to Upload Sketches because Any of my Modified PL2303 or CP2102 USB Adapters will "AUTOMATICALLY" reset the Breduino (& EVERY other Arduino/Arduino Compatible!) so that the Sketch will Upload Successfully EVERY-TIME you UPLOAD a Sketch !!!AND WITHOUT adding a 0.1uF {100nF} Capacitor to the Reset PIN of the ATMEGA328P-PU Microcontroller !)

As soon as it finishes uploading your Arduino IDE Should look Like the picture Below with the Pin 13 LED Blinking away !!!!

*** If The Sketch didnt Upload Correctly Look Back Over ALL your Breduino Connections, Re-Check Everything and MAKE SURE you have installed the relevant DRIVER for your USB Adapter & like i said at the beginning of this Guide that Even the Experts Can Sometimes get the most simplest of things wrong in circuits (The honest ones who own-up-to-their-mistakes, lol !) NOT saying that im an expert in anyway as i also clearly stated that i am only still learning within The Wonderful World of Arduino but i know that this Breduino Works as i have tested this entire instructable on the very Breduino i have taken the pictures from and it works like a charm everytime! ***

Also something that i couldnt find so easily online through my good research assistant, Google, is a way to Take the Sketch off of the Arduino or Arduino Compatible
(Breduino!) or 'Cancel' the Sketch, so what i found buried in an Arduino.cc Forum was how to save my own sketch that 'Cancels' an Uploaded Sketch

All you need to do is go to create a new sketch in the Arduino IDE (File>New) and type this in:
void setup(){}
void loop(){}

Then SAVE this Sketch (File>Save or File>Save As) and you will also have what it took me HOURS and HOURS of Trawling through the Arduino Forums & Google to find a way for a beginner like me to kill an uploaded sketch from an Adruino/Arduino Compatible !!!

I hope you have as much fun making a Breduino for yourself with all the different options of how to create on of these for yourself and if its not too much trouble please
please please dont forget to 'Rate' this instructable between 1 to 5 stars at the very top-right of these pages as i would be most - grateful and deeply appreciative of that
and also please please please feel free to leave comments for constructive criticism or suggestions on this instructable at the end & many many thanks in advance !!!

I Personally solder & Modify the PL2303 & CP2102 USB Modules in the Ebay Link at the Top of this page then finally encase the whole module in clear plastic, sand it with 3 different grades of sand paper ranging from Rough to Smooth then sand it again with smooth finishing with an expensive GLASSPAPER
(not sand paper) and finally polish it to a gleaming shine and i sell these on ebay fully made to take special advantage of the "Automatic Reset (Software Reset)" of the breadboard Arduino OR any other Arduino so all you need to do is simply press 'Upload' on the Arduino IDE Software and wait a few seconds until your sketch has uploaded without tediously and annoyingly failing to upload sketches "The Manual Way" by timing however many seconds it takes in order to press the Arduino Reset Switch and successfully uploading sketches!

I charge a reasonable price for all the work it takes to modify these modules and its alot of hard work as i dont have power tools and each module is crafted by hand so if your interested in one just visit my ebay page that has them being sold and not as expensive as any other Arduino USB TTL to Serial Converter & including postage & packing costs ! but so sorry, only selling to mainland UK at the moment folks so do apologize on that one!

How to Configure and Correctly Use the CP2102 Module

that was NOT Bought as an "AUTO-RESET-ENABLED"


As these modules are ALL made in China, the designs for these modules are used for a great many other purposes (So i have seen online via google !) so to get them to work to send the all important Auto-Reset-Signal to Arduino Hardware is to use the DTR Pin NOT THE "RST" PIN as that will RESET THE USB MODULE !!! (BTW: For whatever reason the USB module needs to be reset like this is beyond me and i have no idea WHY the Chinese have designed this module like this in the 1st place !)

Okay So...... the Pin that sends the Auto-Reset-Signal to Arduino Hardware is called the 'DTR' pin, which stands for: DATA TERMINAL READY.

This USB Module is one of a very Very VERY Select Few, if not the ONLY ONE capable of modifying for our Arduino Uses with the least amount of soldering or SMD soldering !

This is where the All Important DTR pin is located on the USB Module and you can see from underneath the module that it says the 3 letters 'DTR' which can be better seen in the picture on the right, below (Above the pin named 'DSR')

And on the top side of the CP2102 module, the DTR Pin is the one with a box drawn around it near the tag "J3" as shown below:

The photo above-right shows where you will need to solder the supplied 1-Pin Male Header Pin to the DTR Pin of this USB Module to take advantage of the Autoreset Function of this module !

Once soldered, DO NOT USE THE RST PIN (ONLY THE BOUGHT AUTO-REST-ENABLED CP2102 Can make use of the RST PIN !)

Now here's how to connect:

1st Insert the Also Supplied 0.1uF Ceramic Disc Capacitor into two breadboard holes leading absolutely no-where lol:

Now link your newly soldered pin on the CP2102 module to the 1st Leg of this 0.1uF Capacitor, pictured below i am using a Blue wire to enter the hole of the 1st Leg of the 0.1uF capacitor:

And now Link the 2nd Leg of the 0.1uF capacitor to the RESET pin of the microcontroller as shown in the photo below (Another Blue wire, Lol !! ):

Now connect up your USB Module to the Breadboard Connections you made earlier and as mentioned earlier above for the STANDARD VERSION of the CP2102, here it is again:

CP2102:                                  Breduino:
DTR PIN***                To         RESET PIN *** VIA A 0.1uF Capacitor !!!
3v3 (This is 3.3v)      To        NC * (See Note1)
VCC (This is 5v)       To         RED + Sign PIN on Breduino * (See Note1)
TXD                             To        TX
RXD                            To        RX
GND                            To        BLACK - Sign on Breduino

However... if you happen to have bought a PL2303 Module, There is an instructable on how to solder the 0.1uF (100nF) Capacitor on this great & awesome website and if you fancy trying to do it yourself and save a few pennies, a chap named LOG (Lazy Old Geek!) has helped us all out and made an extremely great instructable right HERE with all the procedure that i also used - so if you'd like to do it yourself then by all means feel free to do so, also as i only have a limited batch of these that i make and also i am severely mobility impaired so it takes a two weeks to produce only 7 of these as i dont have power-tools and my condition prevents me from making as much as i'd like but for those interested in acquiring one check out my ebay page where these are being sold HERE !


Now and again some folks get the Dreaded error message (& just in case you're wondering, yes this happens to me too lol):

:avrdude.exe: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00

When trying to upload.....

This error message is extremely cryptic...

: Having a meaning that is mysterious or obscure.
(or of a crossword-nature):  Having difficult clues that indicate the solutions indirectly

Right, so all this error message tells us is that something is preventing the Arduino IDE from successfully uploading a sketch, but what it DOESNT tell us is where the Problem is !!!! - LOL !!!!

Okay so onto the Troubleshooting !

Check these things and make sure all is in order:

Breadboard Checks:

1. The usual suspect and a 'CURE-ALL' solution to breadboard setups NOT working as they should is always the AGE-OLD problem that many people Dont Know (95% of people, lol {And Yup, i was ALSO in that 95%, lol}) is the problem of ENLARGED BREADBOARD HOLES !!!!!
Due to using big TO-220 Type parts ( Voltage Regulators, MOSFETs, Power Transistors etc ), mainly because of these large pin components, breadboard holes are PERMANENTLY Enlarged and the best way to test if a breadboard hole has been damaged by a large pin component is to take the thinnest resistor lead (Leg) you can find, insert it into your 'Suspected' enlarged breadboard hole and then remove it ever so gently and if you feel any resistance of the resistor staying in the breadboard, then thats a good sign of the hole not being permanently enlarged... On the other hand, if the resistor Leg comes out of the hole without the breadboard putting up any sort of a fight to keep it in the hole, then thats a breadboard hole thats been permanently enlarged. Here's a how-to to fix that problem,but follow my tip in the Power Supply Section (Section 1) for what  to do with the Big TO-220 Type components, Prevention is always better than a Cure ! ! !

2. Check the RESET Pin on the microcontroller has a 10K pullup Resistor going to +5v Rail on the breadboard.

3. Check that there is also a 10K Pullup Resistor going from the RX Pin of the microcontroller to an empty pin hole not connected to anything on the breadboard (This empty pin hole is where the RX from the USB Module plugs into !!!).

4. Check your cables for continuity, meaning check that they are not broken, you can do this using a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter), there is usually the sign of a Diode and the DMM beeps continuously when there is a connection all the way through a wire indicating that there is full continuity in that cable/wire !

5. DISCONNECT ANY WIRES GOING TO THE RX PIN OF THE MICROCONTROLLER While you are Doing the Upload (Meaning ONLY have the RX wire from the USB Module going to RX on the microcontroller !!!), here is a great Link after HOURS, DAYS, WEEKS & MONTHS of trawling through forum posts, all to NO AVAIL - AND some posts even go to mention THROWING AWAY your setup !!! huh, WHY throw away a perfectly good setup JUST BECAUSE "they" didnt know how to get it running or gave up troubleshooting lol ! Anyhoo, here's the link (MAJOR THANKS to Keith Parkansky for actually finding this out AND documenting it!)


USB Module Checks:

1. Do you have the correct Driver Installed for the USB Module you are Using from the Driver links at the beginning of Section 3 ?

2. have you tried uploading with:
TX from USB Module connected to TX on Microcontroller, RX from USB Module connected to RX on the Microcontroller
TX from USB Module connected to RX on Microcontroller, RX from USB Module connected to TX on the Microcontroller

3. Have you soldered the 1-Pin Male pin header to the DTR Pin if using the STANDARD CP2102 module ?!?

4. Is your 0.1uF capacitor in place as it should be from these instructions ( Again, Only needed if using the STANDARD CP2102 Module ) ?!?

5.If you have a STANDARD CP2102 Module, you Need To Use The "DTR" pin instead of the RST Pin !!!

6a. Have you tried using a different USB Port ?

NOTE:About USB Ports:
The only sure-fire way i know of linking any USB to a pc is by linking a USB Extension cable (2 meters should be fine) from 'Only' one of the back USB ports on the computer leading to a USB Hub and make sure you buy a USB Hub thats powered (Has its own power plug!) and then use this for your USB useage that will sit comfortably on your desktop, give you plenty of USB ports and never ever have USB errors that windows usually gives when you try to connect digital camera's to USB ports as they try to always take about 1-2Amps yet pc USB ports are severely limited to 500mA (0.5A !!) !

I repaired computers for 13 years so this is all from experience lol

6b. Are you using a USB Port direct from your computer or a USB Hub ? Have you tried direct from your computer and, or, a USB Hub - if your computer's USB ports are not accessible - ?

Arduino IDE Checks:

1. Did you know that you can open up Multiple instances of the Arduino IDE ? Well this means you can open up the Arduino IDE 10 times and have them all up on your desktop !

Im not too sure if they will all work as needed like this and havent tested multiple uses like this but from my own humble experience, after the Arduino IDE has been open for a good 15-20 minutes of repeated FAILED tires to upload, it doesnt quite like this behaviour and so needs a restart, so Shut down all instances ( all open windows of the Arduino IDE ) of the Arduino IDE and then open it up again from fresh, this usually cures alot of the uploading problems too.

Windows Computer Users Checks: ( ! )

If your like me and have your Windows Computer running 24 hours a day, inevitably computers start experiencing Glitches or abnormal behaviour where something "should" work but "all of a sudden doesnt" - Guess What !!! Its because we're using a WINDOWS computer !!!!!!! !!!!!! !!!!!!

Mac & Linux users are probably laughing at this point lol....

1. Restart PC....... lol
2. Try Uploading Again

You'll be amazed at how many problems this solves LOL x 2 !!!

And if youve reached this point and your STILL not getting your Arduino Hardware to Upload the Blink Sketch:

Yelp for Help !

If all else fails, email me a couple of "Clear" photo's of:

1: Your Breadboard Setup,

2: Your USB Module,

so that myself & the mad scientist can troubleshoot the setup and see whats going on, so there will be less hair-yanking done by all lol ;-)

BTW, the mad scientist is my Alter-Ego, lol ;-)

& Remember, i will always try my very best to help troubleshoot problems & setups, im also still learning the very nature of Arduino myself, most who buy my kits have oodles more experience than i have, but i will always try to troubleshoot your breadboard setups and have the tenacity not to give up when other sellers will start palming you off with excuses rather than solutions, so please bear in mind that im trying to help, so please, be nice, there's always a logical solution to why setups dont work and 9 times out of 10 its something so simple that one could kick themselves for not noticing it in the 1st place ;-)

And on that bombshell, just show me the setup photo's, always happy to help solve these problems and together we'll have alot less hair-yanking going on lol ;-)

Go Back To Step 2                                   Go Back To Step 1                                       Go Back To Intro
<p>hello!!</p><p>thanks for sharing such a nice instructable.I uses this instructable to built an arduino uno and burned a basic led blink code on it with 1 sec delay in on and off of led. but problem is that it takes around 14 sec to on led and another 14 sec to off the led..</p><p>can you suggest where i am making a mistake.?</p>
<p>I follow this guide and got it to work using the PL2303 USB interface and a manual reset button. I have one quirk that it only gets a COM port assigned and can accept upload if one particular USB socket on my PC is used. And straight after the Arduino program finishes compiling I quickly press the reset button once, dont keep it pressed down. I am a noob at electronics and what I do is to help not frying my PC USB (I had 2 blue screen's of death in Windows 7 probably due to bad wiring) is to use two diodes on the +5V and +3.3 V voltage outputs on the PL2303.</p>
Dear Author, A really fantastic and superb INSTRUCTABLE. I searched the web for so many ways to upload the sketch but you MAN...Enlightened me with your knowledge....thank you ssssssoooooooo muchhhhhhhhhhhhh.........!!!!!!!!!!!!And by the same time can you send me schematic of the Instuctable my mail ID is mohamedabrez@gmail.com
waiting for ur replyyyyyyyyyy pls do reply sir......!!!!!!
Hello, my friend &quot;AshleyLad&quot; bought me this kit and had it sent to me in Swansea, I have a couple of questions if that's cool, I'm want to run the program from the &quot;DIY FlySky RF module&quot; from rc gourps but not sure if I need to change any code to run (all components ) on 3v3 so I don't fry the XL7105 module etc, can you help?
sorry for solution 3. - what i mean by no voltage regulators needed is that no extra external voltage regulators are needed as there is a 3.3v 250mA voltage regulator included in this kit ;-)
Good morning to you DJ,<br> <br> hey thanks, not so bad now, some days are inherently worse than others but still in alot of pain sadly :-(<br> <br> Do you only have the XL7105 Module that needs the 3.3v to power it or do you also have other 3.3v modules that need to be powered ??<br> <br> Well i have a few solutions, going from the low to high price-wise;<br> <br> 1. You can use a 3.3v voltage regulator to take the native 5v that your kit provides to drop the voltage to the 3.3v that any modules need, would be a good idea to use a decoupling/filter capacitor on the output of the 3.3v voltage regulator ;-)<br> <br> 2. ive made a 3.3v voltage regulator board specially for these purposes, <a href="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321099116737&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT" rel="nofollow"><strong>you can see the details here</strong></a> and this will take the 5v and you will get a very regulated 3.3v output that can supply upto 1A output !&nbsp;;-)<br> <br> 3.&nbsp;Theres also a special 3.3v Kit that runs fully on 3.3v so no such voltage regulators are needed, just hookup any 3.3v devices to the kit as it supplies and runs with 3.3v as its native voltage, <strong><a href="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321071618487&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT" rel="nofollow">right here</a></strong>, but if you have a few devices, option 2 will be the better choice as it supplies upto 1A current !<br> <br> 4. If you want a full Arduino Based 3.3v board (DIY Soldering Kit), <strong><a href="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321161928017&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT" rel="nofollow">check this one out here</a></strong>, again this will only supply upto 250mA of current from the voltage regulator so if you need more devices to run at 3.3v, options 2 along with another option in conjunction would be the better choice !<br> <br> Few Notes:<br> <br> 3.3v Through-hole voltage regulators usually come in no bigger than 150mA, my ones supply upto 250mA of current and are the TO-92 shaped regulators (small) but if you want a 1A through-hole voltage regulator then they come in the TO-220 shape (large) but be careful in inserting this large version into breadboards as they can seriously and permanently enlarge breadboard holes and this causes connection problems when smaller leg components such as resistors enter the holes that a TO-220 voltage regulator once sat in !<br> <br> I would have suggested the cheapest method of all which is using a voltage divider, using a few resistors to drop the 5v down to 3.3v but as your circuit/s draws more current the voltage divider wont account for this so for example, with no load, the voltage divider can be showing 3.3v on the multimeter but as soon as you connect up your load (XL7105 module) then the voltage can drop anywhere from 1.5v to 2.5v !!! So this method would need some experimentation by yourself to sus out which resistor values are needed for supplying 3.3v output with the load attached but <strong>Exercise Caution</strong> when doing this method !<br> <br> hope this helps !
sorry for solution 3. - what i mean by no voltage regulators needed is that no extra external voltage regulators are needed as there is a 3.3v 250mA voltage regulator included in this kit ;-)
PS hope your feeling better.
i am using my arduino uno to upload the blink sketch
Aha !<br><br>Okay so try this test, disconnect all power to the UNO with your Atmega328P-PU in it (the one that doesnt have sketches upload to it) and look at the pin 13 LED on the UNO, it is simply named as &quot;L&quot; on the UNO...<br><br>Now, connect power and at the same time observe the pin13 LED - Does it Blink a few times when you 1st apply Power to it ???
Though I'm not sure if that's your mistake or I'm missing something important here but you can see it on the last two pictures on the second page. Pin 2 on Atmel328p-pu (RX) is connected through a resistor with the pin-headers rightmost pin. On the side of the board you have marked it as TX. Same thing with the third pin (TX). The USB serial thing is connected correctly according to the markings on the side, but the mistake is made on the board. <br> <br>Interestingly enough you say it worked so maybe it doesn't matter :D Though &quot;doesn't matter&quot; is a rude word when it comes to any kind of engineering. :) <br> <br>I hope you manage to sort it out!
Sorry for the delay in responding, i had to check this all out, double check it and then tripple check just to make sure i know what im talking about - lol x 2 !!! <br> <br>Okay it does seem to be correct the way the pictures show but this maybe because i am using a PL2303 USB TTL to Serial converter, i dont know for sure but the way things are, this is the way things are setup: <br> <br>PL2303 Module Breduino (Breadboard Arduino, lol !) <br> <br> TX to 10K Resistor to Pin 2 of Atmega328P-PU ( RX ) <br> RX to Pin 3 of Atmega328P-PU ( TX ) <br> <br>&amp; i have uploaded the Blink-Sketch to the breadboard setup exactly as shown in the picture you refer-to and it uploads perfectly each time with no errors at all !!! <br> <br>Even with myself saying that these 'Transmit' ( TX ) &amp; 'Receive' ( RX ) pins should be connected like-for-like, apparently my overlooked mistake turns out to be correct ! <br> <br>I do also have a USB BUBII but cant find it to test this out with a different USB TTL to Serial Converter but will definitely test that out again as soon as i find it lol !!! <br> <br>Are you interested in making this breadboard setup yourself, or have you done so already ??!?? <br> <br>Anyways, thanks for pointing this out as i will make amendments to say that these pins are not connected like-for-like - it kinda makes sense to be connecting it via TX to RX and RX to TX because one is a 'Transmit Line' and the other is a 'Receive Line' but i am only a beginner/intermediary in the great world of Anything Arduino so im learning as i go along and also this set of instructions is from my actual breadboard setup which i have not taken off of the breadboard since i built it many many months ago (at the time of posting this instructable, lol !) so i can say for sure that this all works as described in the photo's ! <br> <br>If at all curious, breadboard it up yourself for some testing using the same gear in this instructable, would be great to see someone elses results, perhaps even with a different USB TTL to Serial Converter, the links to the ones im using for this instructable are in the end page ! <br> <br>Anyhoo, thanks once again for getting this into the limelight, i will endeavour to put it right asap ! <br> <br>Also lol @ &quot;doesn't matter&quot; !
A nice tutorial overall, but I found it to be strange that you connect the *ino RX pin with TX on PL2303HX and TX pin with RX. Is this right? I'm a beginner myself and this little thing has got me all confused. <br> <br>I would have also appreciated seeing the corresponding schematic. :)
Oops ! <br> <br>Thats definitely a slight mistake, i should have been saying that those pins should be connected like-for-like, TX to TX, RX to RX etc, please could you tel me at which point (or where abouts!) you saw me explaining that the TX should be connected to RX ?!? <br> <br>Although its like for like connections with this microcontroller, my next up and coming instructable is the Mighty Atmega1284P-PU (Total of 32 I/O Pins !) and that is TX to RX etc but for this humble Atmega328P-PU (or Atmega328-PU !) its like for like ! <br> <br>Many thanks in advance !
Hiya there, <br> I absolutely LOVED your instructable about the arduino breadboard. I am just like you in the way you talk and the humor you put into everything! I have always wanted to make an UBER awesome instructable like the one you just made, but i could never find time or energy to do it. :(. <br> <br> <br> Anyways, I also had a question. Actually I am following your instructable through, and you keep mentioning the auto-reset button thingy, so I was wondering, how do I do the manual reset/upload sketches manually? I am asking this because, my cable to connect my PC to my arduino board is a serial ttl to usb female cable(Yes, I do have a separate male to male usb cable). I got this cable from an old computer I took apart. It was actually from one of the usb ports :D. So, it has 4 pin slots, and there are the 4 wires going from the slots. I am almost positive that the 4 wires represent Ground, Rx, Tx, and 3.3v, and I believe I have correctly identified them. But, unfortunately it does not have a pin for reset, so I can't use an auto reset button(right?). Also, I had another question in mind. Since my cable is from the inside of a computer, it is supposed to get power from the serial end, not from the usb end, because you are supposed to plug in usb devices into it, lol. So, I was wondering, how would I be able to use this cable in this situation? Could I possibly just attach the 3.3v pin to the 5v male header on my arduino, and have the arduino supply power? I am not sure how do deal with this situation, but I really want to be able to use this cable, even if I have to supply power from my power source while the arduino is connected to a PC. Well, I think that's it, and any help would be sooooooo appreciated, as I trust you and respect you as a knowledgeable person of arduinoism, lol. Thank you so much and please reply as soon as possible. And once again thanks in advance, and many congratulations on the wonderful instructable. <br> <br> <br>By the way here are the pics of the cable: <br> <br>http://imgur.com/a/4FR7n <br> <br>
Very nice stuctable! I don't think I've ever seen this much detail and explanation. I've built a few pseudo-arduinos very similar to this. I prefer them to the &quot;real&quot; Arduinos for most projects. One thing I didn't see in your pictures (although I admit I didn't search ALL of the pictures) was a connection from the top 5v rail to the bottom 5v rail. When the regulator circuit is used, the top rail is powered, and when the programmer is attached, the bottom rail is powered. If either rail is not powered, the only way I can see for 5v to get there is possibly the 2 common Vcc pins of the 328. Since each Vcc pin is on a different rail, this means current must flow THROUGH THE MICROCONTROLLER. This probably works OK in a minimal circuit, but the chip is not designed for this, so as you add more to each rail it will stress the controller. At some point, you might have an expensive fuse. A simple fix would be to just connect the power at row 24/25 to the bottom rail. <br>
You know what, your soooooo-completely right !!! <br> <br>i usually always connect both the top and bottom rails for the VCC and GND together so that they share an equal supply of power but in all my explanations i had left that behind ! <br> <br>Oh thank you so very very much ! <br> <br>Also thanks loads for the praise, i really do appreciate it and am very grateful for it too, i just wanted a place where i could have almost every possible component that a Protoboard/breadboard Arduino would use to function as the official ones do and also have all the info in one place and some decent close-up pictures !! <br> <br>The official Arduino.cc instructions of putting Arduino loose components onto a breadboard are definitely NOT 'beginner-friendly' and the pictures dont show everything connected clear enough (in my own humble opinion, lol !) and only give a Birds-Eye/Top View of the components being added onto a protoboard/breadboard and as i was just beginning to learn about Arduino's and how to go about prototyping the bare bones of it, i wanted a clearer set of instructions for everyone to follow as i had great difficulty following the 'Official' instructions and just didnt want anyone else to go through the amount of head-scratching i went through !! Plus im now selling these Arduino Kits on ebay along with custom modified USB TTL to Serial converters that take advantage of the Auto-Reset function of uploading sketches, i just dont have the patience for all that timing of the press of the reset button to upload sketches !!! <br> <br>Just plug and play lol ! <br> <br>Once again abqlewis, many many thanks for the update - i will place the needed corrections asap !!!

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Bio: Always modifying something ! Some Simple Rules.. * if you havent taken it apart - you DONT truly own it ! * Tinkering is a way of Life :) * Do what ... More »
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