How to Make Your Leather Boots Last Forever (Or at Least Longer Than the Next Guy's)

1,002,727

190

115

Published

Introduction: How to Make Your Leather Boots Last Forever (Or at Least Longer Than the Next Guy's)

About: It's not about me...

Good boots are not cheap. Cheap boots are not good. As a utility lineman, I spend a lot of time outside under harsh conditions at work. My boots, while tough (they have to be), often pay the price as I slog through mud, water, snow, salt and rocks, not to mention the beating they take while wearing steel climbing hooks and abrading against a telephone pole. There is, however, a way to delay the inevitable and preserve your boots to survive at least as long as this crappy economy. NOTE: This 'ible is for regular tanned leather boots only-'rough outs' or suede type boots like UGGs, etc. will not respond as well to this treatment.

Step 1: The Basics. Start With Oil.

Maintaining your boots is not difficult or expensive, but it needs to be done at regular intervals. I have found a good pair of steel-toed work boots (like those made by Red Wing and other work boot specialty companies like Hall's Line Supply) will generally survive a year and a half to two years with good care under rough line work conditions. Your boots or shoes may not be subject to such harsh conditions, and may go much longer. If you are just looking to make your Doc Martens last longer for more concerts, etc. you could expect to double the life of them by doing regular maintenance. A friend of mine had a pair of Doc's shoes for five or six years, wearing them nearly every day, and through regular oiling (and I think at least one re-soling) was able to keep them until they fell apart at the seams, literally.

Here's what you need:

Neatsfoot Oil-there are plenty of oils and creams out there that all promise to do various things. For my money (and probably yours if you are on here, we are a thrifty lot!), nothing is better than good old Neatsfoot Oil. My company supplies us with Fiebing Brand, and we keep a bottle in the office to work on our boots when we have the time. Additionally, I keep a bottle at home, as I like to oil them right after I dry them overnight. The 32 ounce size shown here will probably last a lifetime unless you have an army.

Store your oil bottle in a zip-loc bag-the design of the bottle creates dribbles and it always ends up on the bottom of your bottle, leaving a nice oily rectangle wherever you put it down. NOTE:it is important to know that Neatsfoot oil will darken the finish of your leather-if your Docs are that perfect shade to match your handbag now, oiling them will change the shade substantially.

Step 2: Brush.

A cheap plastic brush-use this anytime you have dried mud or dirt on your boots or shoes to clean off excess grit. You don't want to be rubbing dirt into the leather as you oil them if you don't have to.

A towel, blanket, or lots of newspaper-this is a messy job, and unless you can work outside where it won't get on carpet or fancy floor coverings, you'll want one of these to protect your floor.

Vinyl or rubber gloves-Neatsfoot oil has a unique smell-not real stinky, but unique enough that once you smell it, you always know what it is...your friends, family or significant other may not be privy to your regimen here, so gloves can be worn and then disposed of to keep the oil off you. It will not hurt your hands, but it may take some time to wash out the smell, and you may feel greasy until you do. NOTE: If you are a utility lineman or ever want to be-DO NOT USE these GLOVES-They are for wussies who worry about the smell on their hands. Be a man, even if you are a woman.



Step 3:

A boot dryer-This is a lifetime investment if you buy right-capable of drying a pair of heavy leather boots overnight, this item is also good for your gloves, hats, etc. that get wet in either rainy or winter weather. If you have a lot of gear, or you have more than one family member that spends time outside in bad weather, you may owe it to yourself to get more than one. My model is made by Peet (shown) and was $39 over ten years ago (yes, it has lasted me that long so far, and is on almost all the time!). A recent Ebay search yielded plenty of these, as well as the obligatory Chinese knock-offs. Govern yourself and your cash accordingly. Remember, good usually ain't cheap, cheap usually ain't good.

Step 4:

A Good Shoe Repair Guy-A decent shoe repairman is not always easy to find-most nowadays are second or third generation, and have vowed to not work as hard as their father did at fixing shoes. As a result most will now want to sell you a new pair of shoes or boots instead. However, some are still out there, and a good shoe guy will be able to tell you when you can fix your shoes (like having them re-soled) and when it's time to replace them. He can also tell you ways to make them last longer, and can make little mods based on the way you walk, etc. to help extend the life of your shoes.

Check your local listings for shoe guys-if you are lucky enough to live in a town near a military base, there is probably more than one to choose from. Otherwise, ask around. Often, it is worth even a half-hour drive to find one in a nearby larger town or city. Often, the older the guy the better, though this is not a hard and fast rule.

Step 5: Get Started.

Pull your laces out of your boots. Put the boot over your hand, just like in the photo (yes that's my arm, not my calf-I have Popeye forearms from work). Put your palm down along the insole of the boot until your fingers are where your toes would be. Using your other hand and your plastic brush, brush away any dirt or residue. Note the second photo-the white residue is road salt along the seam where the upper meets the sole. Brush this off as well as you can-we want to concentrate on this area, as the stitching will fail if the leather is not kept supple here.

Step 6: Be Liberal (just Once, Though)

Don't be afraid to use a fair amount of oil here-pour some into the seam area-if it is enough to run, let it run while turning the boot around, all the time keeping it in the narrow channel where upper meets sole. Once you have oil in the entire area, you can carefully rub it into the seam. This helps to keep the leather supple in one of the most failure prone spots. If you work in winter, realize it is getting assaulted (or perhaps more descriptive would be "a' salted") from the inside from perspiration and from the outside with road salt or God Knows what other chemical your state uses on the roads.

Utilizing the excess oil left over, you want to work your fingers up on to the upper. As you run out of oil, pour on some more and keep on rubbin'. If your boots have leather tongues, make sure to get them as well, and into the stitching for the same reason you hit the stitching in the soles. Under rough condtions, your stitching stands up to abuse as it is (see photo-the stitching wear is from climbing with hooks on) so you want to maintain that as long as you can.

Step 7: Dry. Wipe. Maintain.

Take your boots and place them in a quiet corner overnight-most of the oil will soak in, leaving just a little residue by morning. If you like, you can wipe off the excess with an old cloth towel or paper towel, either one will work.

Oil your boots regularly. I try to get to mine at least once a month, but sometimes I am working enough that it gets hard to do, so I slack off to every other month. This has generally netted me a year and a half to two years out of my boots, under some of the worst work conditions for boots. Your mileage may vary. I've done this for ten years now and it's inexpensive and seems to work. Decent boots run me about $175-$200 for work so you can see the desire to keep them in top shape as long as one can.

When your soles are worn, take your boots to your shoe guy-he should be able to replace them for way less than $50 in most cases and places. If you need resoling, and have no local place, Resole America (www.resole.com) can do them for you, though you will have to send them out and be without them until they are done.

You also want to dry your boots out as often as you can-a convection dryer like a Peet will do this and not over-dry, leaving you to have to do this process all over again. As I have mentioned, even a day's worth of perspiration can do damage. Drying near a fireplace or other heat source is too much heat too soon, and will eventually lead to premature cracking of your leather. The Peet works slowly with convection heat and prevents premature failure of leather and stitching.

Hope this was helpful. Walk tall, work safe.

Share

    Recommendations

    • Stick It! Contest

      Stick It! Contest
    • Pets Challenge

      Pets Challenge
    • Colors of the Rainbow Contest

      Colors of the Rainbow Contest
    user

    We have a be nice policy.
    Please be positive and constructive.

    Tips

    Questions

    115 Comments

    OR you can just buy boots from Dr. Martens and never worry about them falling apart or anything, without any of this fancy stuff from the article. I have a pair of them boots for 6 years now, still look almost like new (slight discoloration, but that happened in the first 3 weeks). Never used oil, brushes, dryers...anything... just a wet cloth when they were really dirty, thats all. I walked in them, danced, played sports even...i mean...the quality is out of this world. What amazes me the most is the sole...the damn thing is just little worn out...how the hell... ;)
    I suggest you buy good quality boots, thats all you need.

    1 reply

    I don't think you realize what a linesman's pair of boots go through day after day,Doc Martens might last a month if your lucky doing a linesman job.

    Hi guys and gals :)
    Got myself these new 17" boots today! Love my Bear Hollow Boots, made in the Allegheny Mountains of Pennsylvania.
    My old pair of Bear Hollow jumper boots are 8 years old, worn every month in New England. Work & Play!
    One time my daughter cleaned out my Jeep and stuck my boots in a bucket outside. She forgot they were there for a month, in which time the bucket filled up with rain water and my poor boots started to mold. I thought they were done, but I cleaned them up good and dried them out, soaked in oils overnight, well, several nights. They were never the same again, but...It was almost like it had never happened.
    I for sure took care of them with Mink Oil & Huberd's Shoe Oil every other month or so. They both soften, waterproof and protect. Looking forward to many years of use out of my new, sexy boots!!
    Thanks for the tips!

    14661578740652105430889.jpg

    We speciailise in leather repair and after doing tests created this product to care for and restore the colour and shine to leather shoes (withour being flaky and leaving a residue) - www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Shoe_Shine_Colour_Restorer.php

    1 reply

    really?! sweet! so can you do an instructable for us on how to make it?

    Regarding neatsfoot oil, it's good for conditioning leather but terribly acidic on thread stitching, so don't use it on things that don't have leather stitching (a baseball glove is its ideal use). Never never never use neatsfoot on fittings for a saddle or any type of equipment with an impact on safety. Mink oil is a better bet.

    I have some polo boots that I bought & a couple of dayd back I decide to jump inside a tire for a ride now they have what appears to be smudges ? from the tire , what should I do & with what too restore them ?

    My tan dingo boots have a few dark spots on one of my boots. They are new. I have worn them once. How do I get the dark spots off and what caused the spots to begin with??

    2 replies

    oops, forgot the site info haha ....... http://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Grease-Stains-on-Leather

    This is what I found about how to remove salt stains... maybe it would work on your dark stains?


    1. Combine the water and vinegar, and mix well.
    2. Dip the towel into the mixture, and wipe gently over the surface of your shoe. Continue this until the stains have fully disappeared.
    3. Let the shoes dry naturally. Using artificial heat could cause the leather to fade.

    I also found info on this site. Maybe just try a bunch of these and it will work :). Good luck!

    I've worn H&H Boots my entire life and they have never failed me until I get lazy and don't oil for literally 5 or 6 years and even then the leather cracks. I have used them for 15 years with one or 2 heel change and they still fit like a glove and look good.

    Mink oil once a year and soles and or heels every 5 years and they ladt forever.

    LOVE Them. Cheap too. I paid 138 bucks last time about 6 years ago.

    Found this thread because I haven't oiled them since I bought them and in the snow they are now soaking through so I oiled them and am looking for the best method to buff them out.
    They will look just like new when I am done.

    You will never buy another company again I guarantee it!

    http://www.doublehboots.com

    I have used this same method (sans the upside overnight drying, which I will now employ) for 20 + years on boots, shoes, dog leashes, belts and anything and everything leather. I live by Neatsfoot. I have a dog leash from German (Frabo) that is 20 years old, still going strong, and has been left out (by the kids!) in the rain and snow on more than a few occasions. A quick brush off, and then on to the Neatsfoot, at least once per month. When doing it this frequently, it is often less than 5 minutes of my time. I rotate my shoes and with this care, they last a lifetime. It helps to buy "real" leather shoes rather than the disposables from the shoe outlets. The boots and shoes are not cheap, but I have not worn out a single pair yet.

    I just wrote an article on how to clean your work boots here:

    http://workbootsreview.com/how-to-clean-work-boots/

    user

    A lot of good advise. Had I read through this five years ago it would have saved me misery. Two pair of boots, daily cleaning, beeswax, and carefull drying are essential if you work in rough environments. I still go through a pair of boots every six months or less though. Currently I am trying out Matterhorns Nytek Mining boot, but I do not know what to put on it other than silicone. I wanted to try something other than leather since the concrete slurry, steel shavings, salt water, hydro oil, and other hazards that come with doing concrete cutting and demolition in dams, ports, tunnels, peirs, etc seem to destroy leather. Any suggestions?

    2 replies

    I know this is an old thread but i'm commenting anyways...... In them working conditions, your boots have to good. Never scrimp on your boots, or your bed. There the two thing you be in for up to 16 hours a day.. lol Have you tried a good pair of Rigger boots, like Timberland or DeWalt Tungsten.? Treat your leather with Obenauf's Heavy Duty Leather Preservative, and Obenauf's Leather Oil. This product is fantastic, made in your country the US of A...

    Timberland Pro Cruisemax Awesome "Ible" really good information, bookmarked.. Cheers everyone from the UK..
    cruisemax.jpgae235.jpg

    The Timberlands APPEAR tough-and some of my coworkers now have a pretty tough looking ballistic nylon/leather combo boot....I'd look for something with a sizable toe cap on the outside for one-sometimes you can even have them capped. I've seen guys use silicone-honestly I can't see anything wrong with it...I'll take a look at those Matterhorns, they're new to me but the brand itself is a damn fine boot.

    Hi Ehmbee,

    I came across this article after googling "Waterproofing boots". Great article, thanks for putting it together, it's very well done.

    After reading the article, I called Fiebing's to get their take on the best method for treating boots. The gent I talked to said that the Neatsfoot oil is really not what they'd recommend for waterproofing boots. He said they recommend a product called Snow Proof, that since it's a wax, it's got properties designed to actually wax leather and create a moisture seal, versus softening it, (which, by his admittance, does somewhat waterproof leather as well as soften it). So I guess I just wanted your thought on that, have you ever used anything for "waterproofing specifically", or has the Neatsfoot oil always served you just fine?

    How often would you say is too often to oil one's boots? I'd like mine to last until the leather wears out, like the reviewer below, and I figure with regular resoling and repairs when necessary they probably can. They're L.L. Bean's so they're really good quality. I could probably oil them once a week if I wanted to, but would that be excessive? How much is too much?

    Thanks for the advice. Until recently I thought that kiwi shoe polish was all that is necessary to maintain leather boots. Even though I would polish at least weekly, road salt would still penetrate them, so I started reading and learned about using conditioner or oil before polishing. What I'm wondering is, will the polish I have already applied block the oil or conditioner from absorbing? I'm guessing no of it can't even block the salt from absorbing?

    1 reply

    I would thoroughly clean the shoes to remove as much polish as possible-leather is a porous material, and has 'living' characteristics despite no longer being on the cow. I recommend a good washing and brushing with something like Dr. Bronner's soap, then the oiling process. Polish lacks the oils necessary for waterproofing. Once done, keep them oiled regularly as I have previously mentioned. Good Luck!