How To Make Your Leather Boots Last Forever (Or at least longer than the next guy's) by ehmbee
Featured
linemen.JPG
Good boots are not cheap. Cheap boots are not good. As a utility lineman, I spend a lot of time outside under harsh conditions at work. My boots, while tough (they have to be), often pay the price as I slog through mud, water, snow, salt and rocks, not to mention the beating they take while wearing steel climbing hooks and abrading against a telephone pole. There is, however, a way to delay the inevitable and preserve your boots to survive at least as long as this crappy economy. NOTE: This 'ible is for regular tanned leather boots only-'rough outs' or suede type boots like UGGs, etc. will not respond as well to this treatment.
 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: The Basics. Start With Oil.

quart.jpg
dryer.jpg
Plastic_floor_brush.jpg
Maintaining your boots is not difficult or expensive, but it needs to be done at regular intervals. I have found a good pair of steel-toed work boots (like those made by Red Wing and other work boot specialty companies like Hall's Line Supply) will generally survive a year and a half to two years with good care under rough line work conditions. Your boots or shoes may not be subject to such harsh conditions, and may go much longer. If you are just looking to make your Doc Martens last longer for more concerts, etc. you could expect to double the life of them by doing regular maintenance. A friend of mine had a pair of Doc's shoes for five or six years, wearing them nearly every day, and through regular oiling (and I think at least one re-soling) was able to keep them until they fell apart at the seams, literally.

Here's what you need:

Neatsfoot Oil-there are plenty of oils and creams out there that all promise to do various things. For my money (and probably yours if you are on here, we are a thrifty lot!), nothing is better than good old Neatsfoot Oil. My company supplies us with Fiebing Brand, and we keep a bottle in the office to work on our boots when we have the time. Additionally, I keep a bottle at home, as I like to oil them right after I dry them overnight. The 32 ounce size shown here will probably last a lifetime unless you have an army.

Store your oil bottle in a zip-loc bag-the design of the bottle creates dribbles and it always ends up on the bottom of your bottle, leaving a nice oily rectangle wherever you put it down. NOTE:it is important to know that Neatsfoot oil will darken the finish of your leather-if your Docs are that perfect shade to match your handbag now, oiling them will change the shade substantially.

1-40 of 93Next »
Takelababy says: Feb 23, 2012. 5:38 PM
Try oiling your boots while the leather is damp and the pores are open. I like to use Dubbin and slather it on with my hands. The leather is allowed to rest overnight then more Dubbin is added to the dry spots. Again overnight. This is followed with lots of rubbing with the bare hands to generate heat. Allow to dry then buff with a soft cloth. I promise you the rain and snow will bead right off.
JIMMCCRANK says: Aug 14, 2011. 9:23 AM
Nice instructable. As a lineman for the past 40 years you can imagine I have gone through my fair share of boots. In Ontario there was a boot maker in Huntsville and his boots were favored by many linemen. Most of us used dubbin to treat their boots as they were so expensive you had to make them last. I have known guys who had theirs for more than 15 years. Not sure if he is still in business but the boots were the best anywhere. Be safe also. Tramp lineman forever. :)
ehmbee (author) says: Aug 16, 2011. 8:19 AM
Thanks-currently caught up in the CWA/IBEW strike-hoping for a resolution soon!
inchman says: Feb 23, 2010. 4:35 AM
 Great 'ible.  Thanks for sharing.  But there is one tip to make boots last that is really important.  Next time you buy a pair of boots, buy TWO pairs (you might get a discount even.)  This allows you to let a pair "relax" for a day as you rotate them every day.  If the boots are wet, it doesn't matter, you are wearing the other set the next day.
This is how the military "trains" it's new recruits (or at least did 20 years ago when I joined.)  Note, combat boots (the old leather ones) cost about $8 to make.  They were CHEAP boots.  But they lasted well because soldiers always had to polish them and keep them clean and rotate wearing them.
ehmbee (author) says: Feb 23, 2010. 6:58 PM
That is a great idea. Sadly, for some guys, two pairs of boots may be tough, especially at $150 and up per pair for good ones. What I've started to do is keep my climbers on the truck. Anytime my 'everyday' boots get muddy or wet, I can switch over.  Since I only need the climbers to, well, climb, I can slowly break 'em in, using them as needed. My everyday boots are Wolverines with DuraShok soles, and side zips for easy on and off.  They don't have steel shanks or quite enough a heel for climbing, but the DuraShok sole makes them feel like wearing a sneaker all day.  If you have the chance to get a boot with a DuraShok, get one-the soles are glued, but can still be replaced by qualified repair persons.
inchman says: Feb 23, 2010. 7:34 PM
 You're right.  It might be hard to pony up for two pairs at the same time.  One thought, if you can convince one or two of your co-workers to do the same, if 3 guys walked into a store that caters to working men (and women), and all were ready to buy two new sets of boots, the discount might be pretty deep (and you can share it among everyone.)

As for the DuraShok soles, do they make a military boot?  I still got a few years before the Army tells me to go away, and I know I have LOTS of ruck marches left in me.  I'd like to try a set if I could find a pair that were authorized.  Thanks for the 'ible again!
ehmbee (author) says: Apr 6, 2011. 7:46 PM
There are a ton of combat books with Durashok or similar soles now-just about every major manufacturer from Corcoran to Danner and the rest have something with either Durashoks proper or their brand's version. www.resoleamerica.com has also told me they can fit almost any boot with a similar style sole. Check them out if you don't have a skilled or willing shoe guy in your area-you may be able to resole a pair you already have.
patmatchue says: Jan 11, 2011. 4:53 PM
Neatsfoot Oil is a great product...but I prefer to use Lexol Leather Conditioner...its not quite as oily and does a great job....conditioning, waterproofing and reheeling or resoling your workboots can make them last for many many years without having to break in a new pair. Visit your local shoe repair shop to purchase Lexol or contact Bill's Shoe Repair in Midland Park NJ
ehmbee (author) says: Apr 6, 2011. 7:43 PM
I have been using Lexol as a weekly application as of late-spraying on and rubbingin after brushing dirt off. The spray does make it easy...I still use my neatsfoot for penetrating and impregnating the leather though....I do my complete wash and oiling now with Dr. Bronner's soap, then Lexol cleaner or saddle soap, dry, then brush on the neatsfoot. my Carolinas have been in use over a year now and look great.
patmatchue says: Jan 11, 2011. 5:01 PM
Although they are hard to find ... there are many fabulous shoe repair men still around. If you do not have one in your local area you can mail your shoes to Bills Shoe Repair shop in Midland Park, NJ. I am talking 26 years experience and a great reputation.
ehmbee (author) says: Apr 6, 2011. 7:40 PM
Awesome-good to remember....
a.l. says: Mar 1, 2011. 8:07 AM
A lot of good advise. Had I read through this five years ago it would have saved me misery. Two pair of boots, daily cleaning, beeswax, and carefull drying are essential if you work in rough environments. I still go through a pair of boots every six months or less though. Currently I am trying out Matterhorns Nytek Mining boot, but I do not know what to put on it other than silicone. I wanted to try something other than leather since the concrete slurry, steel shavings, salt water, hydro oil, and other hazards that come with doing concrete cutting and demolition in dams, ports, tunnels, peirs, etc seem to destroy leather. Any suggestions?
ehmbee (author) says: Apr 6, 2011. 7:40 PM
The Timberlands APPEAR tough-and some of my coworkers now have a pretty tough looking ballistic nylon/leather combo boot....I'd look for something with a sizable toe cap on the outside for one-sometimes you can even have them capped. I've seen guys use silicone-honestly I can't see anything wrong with it...I'll take a look at those Matterhorns, they're new to me but the brand itself is a damn fine boot.
huntjulien says: Mar 27, 2011. 11:12 PM
my dad has a pair of roots leather boots sadly this was there last year. he bought them 18 years ago!!!!! they werent used everyday but many. they were worn everyday during are harsh saskatchewan winters up in canada. great boots. only reason there done now is he wore right through the leather itself. best product ever bought. i almost teared up wen i saw the hole.
ehmbee (author) says: Apr 6, 2011. 7:37 PM
Where was the hole? Sometimes a skilled shoe guy can patch for you-I just missed out on an old Singer "Patcher" leather treadle machine myself on Ebay....would have been a ton of stuff I could have fixed....
abadfart says: Dec 9, 2010. 8:56 PM
im going on 5 years with my black leather jumper boots
ehmbee (author) says: Dec 10, 2010. 3:32 AM
NICE!
abadfart says: Dec 10, 2010. 6:08 PM
ya i polish them 2 times a week and have had the soles replaced 1 time
ehmbee (author) says: Aug 4, 2010. 1:46 PM
Nice 'ible-I find, though, that such an amount of air is probably too much for leather-if it's on hot or warm...if that were just cool moving air, it would be ok, although a bit power hungry...crap, maybe I'll just READ it so I know what's being used, lol. BTW, my Peet has been plugged in nearly 12 years now and still works flawlessly.
stormthirst says: Aug 4, 2010. 12:45 AM
mountainsport says: Feb 28, 2010. 12:32 AM
A good leather preservative is worth its weight in gold. It's always best not to use artificial heat on your leather boots and such, but always let them come to room temperature while applying LP and conditioner.  One product that has gained in popularity at the 2010 Vancouver Winter Olympics was TOBR Leather Preservative and Conditioner.  A non-contaminate, will not attract dust and dirt, is a natural ingredient formula that employs wild beeswax with no chemicals, petroleum products, animal fats or oils, but relys on its antiseptic properties to nourish and feed the leather. Once TOBR has completely dried, leather will buff to a resilient shine with a soft cloth or brush. Use an old toothbrush to apply TOBR in between the soles and uppers, ensuring that stitching is well saturated. Inhibits mold and mildew and protects your leather against red rot. Dries scent free and is environmentally safe for rivers, lakes and streams.   A 6 ounce round will last for any harsh winter and muddy spring to follow.  
uncle_al_0 says: Jan 13, 2009. 7:20 PM
I'm 19 years old and I've been wearing boots everyday for the past 7 years. I started with the cheap JCPennies $50 steel toes and was going through a pair of boots every 5-6 months. Now I've moved on to using Caterpillar boots, I work in an auto shop and in construction (pretty hard environments for boots) the last pair of Cats lasted me a year and 3 months with no oiling at all. If I can make them last that long without oiling, I can't imagine how long they'll last if i start oiling them. Thanks for the 'ible. Added to favorites
ehmbee (author) says: Feb 16, 2010. 6:50 PM
I'm guessing you spend a fair amount of time kneeling doing body work-consider getting a soft plastic cap or guard glued on to your toes-you can get them at some shoe stores or have a shoe guy install them.  It keeps the leather over your steel toe from wearing out prematurely if you spend a lot of time kneeling to work.
abadfart says: Apr 24, 2009. 9:14 AM
try surplussed combat boots they work well and are affordable
CybergothiChe says: Jan 3, 2010. 9:48 PM
 Hi...I have these boots
 
They are leather, but the cover over the steel cap is synthetic. They also have a zipper up the other side, unseen in the picture.

what would you recommend for this?


www.gothicshoes.com.au/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/RIOT_20_48c385af5ba94.jpg



ehmbee (author) says: Jan 4, 2010. 4:05 AM
It would most likely depend on how worn your boots are. If they are new, you'll have noticed the finish is still a bit shiny.  if you want them to take oil, you may need to "Rough" them a bit to get them to absorb the oil. Personally I'd use a light scouring pad (plastic, not steel wool or Chore-Boy) and see how much of the finish gets abraded. If it doesn't work, go up a level in coarseness or 'grit'. Body shop suppliers have Scotchbrite pads in varying levels of abrasiveness if you want to truly know how much a jump you are making. Then go through the process as I have outlined and others have added or amended. The oil or preservative you choose should absorb just fine. It will make the boots dull, though.

If you want to keep the shine, you'd have to do polish, preferably a "spit shine"-look here on the Instructables site for a good 'ible on polishing if that is what you want. I burn my polish into boots I want a shine on, with a butane lighter, then polish them by spraying water as I go. It's a process, but the results are amazing.  Polishing those babies looks like it will take some time, getting around all the straps and hardware :-). Hope this helps, and good luck.
CybergothiChe says: Jan 4, 2010. 11:49 PM
 woo! thankyou so much, and thankyou for your prompt response :)
ehmbee (author) says: Jan 5, 2010. 5:38 PM
No problem, glad to help...
CybergothiChe says: Jan 3, 2010. 9:49 PM
 and by 'these boots' I mean the ones in the link...I hope that didn't cause too much confusion... :P
joeyjojoe says: Apr 11, 2009. 2:37 AM
wow !!! never mind your calf, i thought it was your waist!!!! lol
ehmbee (author) says: Apr 11, 2009. 8:19 AM
Sadly, my waist is MUCH larger than this-I can count my gut as a point of contact when I climb a pole. :-)
handidad says: Feb 7, 2009. 11:12 AM
Water-proofiing mainaintanceis very important. I had a pair of elictrical safety boots for possibly about 15 years that i used for hiking and winter boots. THey were very comfortable and water proof. I used to protect them with artic dubin. I got a bit careless though and noticed that they leaked. When stepping into a puddle of salt water, they woud gert instantly wet. I tried everything, including bees wax and oven heat to get them water proof again, but once the salt got into the leather I just could seal them. Oh well, better go and put more artic dubbin on my new boots again.
ItsTheHobbs says: Jan 16, 2009. 9:41 AM
My dad's a power lineman!
ehmbee (author) says: Jan 16, 2009. 11:17 AM
I'm a fourth-generation lineman personally, very rare I've been told. My Great Grandfather built the network in our area that Bell eventually took over....wish I coulda met him.
dalucero says: Feb 5, 2009. 9:21 AM
My dad's a lineman too. He's currently the business manager for IBEW LU 66 in Houston.
ehmbee (author) says: Feb 5, 2009. 11:32 AM
Nice, I am in the CWA but our company is partly IBEW too. I'm local 13000.
ItsTheHobbs says: Jan 17, 2009. 6:01 PM
Wow.... thats really neat!
theglobecruiser says: Jan 30, 2009. 2:42 PM
Hi there ehmbee, Thanks for starting this discussion .Taking care of your feet is important . It starts with shoes. I pick-up allot of info on how to from the comments. My boots will benefit . I wont care to much if I get caught in the rain on my next hike.
ehmbee (author) says: Jan 30, 2009. 3:32 PM
Thanks for the props-I have actually learned a lot myself from this 'ible. Both about leather care, my job, and human nature!
kikiorg says: Jan 22, 2009. 6:07 AM
Thanx for the 'ible! Another tip: I use Spemco (sp?) shoe inserts. If there's enough height in the shoe, it will make any shoe very comfortable for a long time. They are made of neoprene and can't totally collapse, and they last forever -- they even have a 1 year warranty. The green cloth comes off within a few weeks, but the rest still works great! They're not cheap -- $8 for the thinnest. I like the ones with heel supports, but they can run $25/pr. Since they last longer than the shoes, they're worth it -- I have one pair in my daily steel toes that I got in 2001, and others that are over 15 years old. You find these at shoe repair stores, not Target. Kiki
1-40 of 93Next »
Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

PDF Downloads
As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format. You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.

Upgrade to Pro today!