Picture of How To Make Your Own Sugru Substitute
I call it Oogoo, an inexpensive silicone clay that is easily made. It can be used as an excellent substitute for Sugru. It can be hand molded or cast in forms. Or, it can be used as a casting silicone. It can be colored any color from white to black. It can also be made translucent to allow diffused light to shine through. It can even be painted on in thin layers. It has very good adhesive qualities and will stick to itself, glass, fabric, paper, wood, and some plastics and metals.

This instructable will show :

1- How to mix and color Oogoo

2- How to cast it or hand form it into different shapes.

3- How to make silicone paint

4- Several interesting uses for Gorilla tape and Gorilla Glue, see steps 3, 7, 12 and 15.

5- How to make a few projects using Sugru and a comparison of Oogoo and Sugru

Since I am mainly interested in using Oogoo to embed electronic circuits in flexible forms, this instructable will also show you how to:

1- Make a soft circuit LED pumpkin head robot display that can be embedded on to clothing.

2- Make cleanly etched conductive fabric circuits

3- Make conductive glue using Gorilla glue.

4- Embed circuits in Oogoo or Sugru

The intro pic shows a few of the silicone shapes that I made using Oogoo and a funky, smirky, flexible pumpkin head robot LED display.


This is, in a word, awesome. One more cool thing to do with corn starch. I can't wait to try it. I might go poor(er) buying tubes of silicone caulk, but I have simply got to try it. Thanks! :-)

apple-o4 months ago

On hackaday (see below) one person said they used bleach instead of corn starch.

Does anyone know if this is a good or bad idea?

Other than the normal dangers of working with bleach
(fumes, chemical burns, staining your clothes, etc.)
would this create toxic fumes or result in a more toxic plastic,
or have any different properties that might be useful
(such as more or less flexible, bendable or rigid, etc.)?

Much appreciated...


>> Bob C. says: October 12, 2011 at 1:14 am

>> ...

>> I just made some of this stuff and used regular household bleach

>> instead of corn starch and a few drops of acrylic paint.

>> 2 drops of bleach for every full trigger pull of GE Silicone I,

>> it worked GREAT…


> Jerry Carter says:

> August 28, 2013 at 11:04 am

> Thanks for the alternate recipe! Sounds like bleach would

> mix more readily than corn starch as well

I can't comment on the chemistry, but given a choice, I would go with the corn starch, for exactly the reasons you listed. I'd rather work with something I know is safe and non toxic and not going to harm me or the environment.

The only way to know if the bleach makes a difference, for better or worse, would be to try it. I have to disagree with the comment that it would mix more readily though. In such a small amount, it would be difficult to get it mixed evenly, especially when you can't see it. And 2 drops for every trigger pull is not really an exact measurement. How big of a drop? What happens if you get 3 drops instead of 2? Can the ratio be adjusted, as it can with the corn starch?

If you have tried it with the bleach, it would be interesting to know what the results were.

Kirrashi3 months ago

can someone explain why the silicone 2 will not work for this? It seems to be more easily avaliable to me, but I don't quite understand why it's different

I don't understand the chemistry, but Silicone II cures differently. It is a rapid cure caulk, and for some reason doesn't work well by adding other materials to introduce moisture into the caulk (which makes Silicone I caulk cure all the way through).

I was able to find the sil I caulk type after a couple stores, been a lot of fun expitimenting with this stuff!

TiConn2 months ago


I am having trouble with the drying process. First off, I mix the cornstarch and caulk in a container until it is fully mixed. I continue to mix it, then I use my hands to start to shape it. At this point, the oogoo is very sticky and the consistency is not as thick as clay. I finish shaping it and it resembles clay and has a matte finish. It does degenerate when I push on it. I let it go for about 2 hours, and it still degenerates! It is not rubber at all! I used a 1:1 ratio. I was thinking one issue might be that I am working in a humid environment. I mix and shape the oogoo outside, but after about 5 minutes outside I take the oogoo inside for it to "harden". PLEASE HELP!!!!

Make sure you are not using the "Silicone II" caulk. This is a quick-curing caulk that does not work well when you include additives like cornstarch. Instead , get the "Silicone I" caulk. It's cheaper too!

f1dd13r TiConn1 month ago

Are you sure you are using 100% silicone caulk? I tried it with some sealant we had and it wouldn't harden at all but that proved not to be the right caulk. With the 100% silicone there is a really strong acetic acid smell and that has worked every time for me.

I see that you are having some trouble, and I am too. I tried something this morning though. I suggest before putting the Oogoo on the plastic molds, rub them in something that's liquidy and never dries, like vegetable oil. I'm sure that this will work. Just don't wash the oil off until after you take the oogoo out of the mold.
Of course, this only for plastic molds. I'm afraid I can't help with anything else.

if your mix seems to act more like vaseline than putty it may be because the caulk you are using is too old. I learned that there is a shelf life on silicone caulk the hard way. recaulking the bathroom was no fun but at least the internets let me know that it wasn't a skill fail but a materials fail.

apple-o4 months ago

Regarding coloring the plastic, the last time I was at Home Depot, I looked in the paint department and could not find any linseed oil based paint.

Can anyone recommend where to find this, either online or at a national chain, and if so, a specific brand or product?

How would food dye, candy dye (which I think is oil-based), standard (ie non-linseed oil-based) oil paint (for example the kind in tubes they sell at an art store), or acrylic paint work in lieu of linseed oil based paint?

I would want a coloring agent that

1. is non-toxic & safe for regular handling, kids, etc. (which is probably why they specify linseed oil based paint?),

2. will not stain things when wet (which I suspect something water-based like food coloring or acrylic paint might do?)

3. is not too hard to find or expensive (a nice to have, the above two requirements are the most important)

Any info appreciated!

boocat apple-o24 days ago

Fine arts supply stores. I use Dick Blick and Utrecht Art, but there are many.

I've found that Alkyd (fast drying) oil paint, works very well.

Goofpod apple-o2 months ago

Artist's paints for painting on canvas are linseed oil based. Michael's stores carry them as well as most independent art stores. Just a few drops is all you need.

mxx apple-o2 months ago

apple-o, as far as I know, most oil paints are linseed oil based.

Goofpod3 months ago
Goofpod Goofpod3 months ago

Not sure why that post is blank...?

Here ya go:

Has anyone figured out what to add to make oogoo harder, like Sugru? Maybe another additive, or simply the "golden ratio" of cornstarch to silicone etc.? The end product is great, but Sugru seems to be a little tougher, stronger once fully set. Thnx!

Maybe this is of some use?:

'The formulation of sugru contains 30% silicone caulk (polysiloxane) 20-50% talc, and the remaining additives including:methyltris (methylethylketoxime) silane, γ-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, and dioctyltin dilaurate.'

~ https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugru

For sealing caulk tubes, I find sticking a large nail in the end of the tube works really well. Cheap, and reuseable, as long as you haven't cut the opening too large.
For those that would like a pourable version ...use 1-1-1 parts of
100% silicon caulk (white or clear)
Corn starch
Naptha or paint thinner....Naptha will set faster but costs is a little more.

I use this ratio to create molds to pour my fishing lures...like soft rubber worms..etc....it will stand heat up to 500 degrees.

Mix very well....NO LUMPS.....this ratio will start to set in 40 min...and be fully cured in 4-5 hrs....I let mine set for 24 hrs before i put them in full use.

How does the rubber compare to the putty version's?

f1dd13r1 year ago

I made some yesterday and managed to hang some pot lids up with it.

You can seal the caulk tube by removing the nozzle and laying some cling film/saran wrap over the hole, then screw the nozzle back on again to hold it there. Poke out the stuff stuck in the nozzle if there is any , so it can still be used.

I just seal the cartridge tube with a little of the silicone sealant, screw the nozzle back on, then put it back in the fridge.

holymoses1 month ago

Probably the preparing temperature and moisture are important, gelatinizing the starch could make sense!

Found an old Patent:


Method for preparing silicone-treated starch

US 4495226 A

A method for treating starch with organosiloxane polymers is described in which the organosiloxane polymer is contacted with starch in an aqueous dispersion at a temperature of from 60° C. to 98° C. for a period of at least 60 seconds. Starch treated by this method can be useful as glue, a binder, a filler, or a coating. Starch treated with aminoalkyl- or epoxyalkyl- substituted polydimethylsiloxane is especially useful as a water repellent sizing for substrates such as paper and textiles.

holymoses1 month ago

I found you here:


and besides the high price of Sugru this is the annoying point:

"but one can’t (yet!) just drop in on any local hardware store to buy a quick fix"

So, good idea to test and probably improve!


JoelL32 months ago
mxx2 months ago

Wonderful instructable with must-have knowledge for the diy-selfer!

DCengineer4 months ago

I am aware that it has been done many times, but I am wondering how well oogoo performs as a cord reinforcement. My old laptop cord has finally reached the end of its extended life (I have already rebuilt it once using super glue, heat shrink, and modable epoxy, and I nearly destroyed it in the process). Instead of waiting for my new-soon-to-be-heavily-used cord to wear out, I intend to reinforce it ahead of time. I have several questions:

1) Will the oogoo stick to both the cord and power brick?

2) The brick will be moved around a lot, will the oogoo wear down significantly over time?

3) I tend to be very fidgety. Can cured oogoo be easily shredded (and make a wonderful mess a the community college)?

4) Will the oogoo become hard enough to actually protect the cord?

mikey77 (author)  DCengineer3 months ago

Oogoo sticks to metal and plastic, but not real strongly. The more surface area it is in contact with the better it will stick. If there are rough surfaces or irregular surfaces that it can wrap around, it will stick better.

When rubbed it does not wear down easily.

It does not shred easily, but it can be sliced by sharp objects.

It will be hard enough to protect well if you can attach it well enough to not slide around.

Nelly434 months ago
I have made this for a couple of projects. I thank you very much for the instructable. I have been using two plastic spoons and a shallow Tupperware container to mix it in and I really am happy with the re usability/ ease-of-cleanup those items give me. I simply let them dry and in a day or two peel all the silicon bits off and they are ready for the next project.
germeten4 months ago

Do you believe that the cornstarch contributes to the fast curing? Do you know of any other higher temperature tolerant fillers a person might use for say, casting pewter or eutectic alloys?

_GetAxe_4 months ago
Hello there mikey 77.. Im just wondering, if i put lets say about 2 to 1 cornstarch to silicone by volume, will the silicone absorb all the cornstarch? And i want to know if it is heat safe? Thanks for the great idea dude..
Dancedebs4 months ago

hello can this method be used to make large molds for beeswax candles? I ve a ceramic ganesha I'd like to mold

mikey77 (author)  Dancedebs4 months ago

Yes, it works well for molds for beeswax and other materials.

Test the Oogoo on the the object you are casting with a small patch of Oogoo.

See how well it sticks and how easily it peels off.

If it sticks too well to a porous object, you can spray the object with spray lacquer, as a mold release.

Apply the Oogoo, let it set up and then you can cast the beeswax.

MikeyB35 months ago

Do you think adding epoxy to the mix would help it to be more rigid when it cures? It would be cool to be able to vary that based on how much you mix in.

dsnell17 months ago
Is oogoo safe to use with foods? I.e. If you made a spatula or as the lid to a jar similar to the one you made. Also is it safe if a child got its hands on it and put it in their mouth?
mikey77 (author)  dsnell17 months ago

As I have said several times before, Oogoo is not food safe. So, you can add it to the list of things people, and especially children, should not put in their mouth.

If you want food safe silicone, you could try sorta-clear 40 silicone which is available from Smooth-On.

ahecht mikey775 months ago
If I'm using pure silicone aquarium sealant (which says that it is food/pet safe when fully cured) and food-grade corn starch, is there any reason that the final product wouldn't be food safe?
mikey77 (author)  ahecht5 months ago

Most likely, it would be food safe, but the only way to know for sure would be to run some tests.

One test you could try would be to do a test with the minimum of corn starch. Mix a batch of 3 or 4 to 1 of silicone to corn starch by volume. After it has cured, bury it in moist dirt for a week or two. look at it under a microscope for any signs of discoloration or mold. I have done this test with regular silicone caulk and found no evidence of mold after several weeks.

In my experiments most of the corn starch is internally embedded with very little on the surface of the cured Oogoo. You could try boiling the set up Oogoo in boiling water for ten minutes to dissolve any surface corn starch that could feed mold or bacteria.

That said, I would suspect aquarium sealant, if it smells like vinegar while curing, would be quite safe for storage of dry materials like coffee or powdered milk.

Hot liquid foods and moist foods might require further testing.

wolvmarine made it!6 months ago

Oogoo catalyzed by corn starch vs soapy water bath? The latter being the less messy and easier method is now gingerly haning off my laptop as I type. I have been following the oogoo process for awhile now and happen to come across the soap/water bath rendering and decided to make the water immersion version since it a more "pure" rendering. I've taken a few photos and I'll update with the cured form as well.

Shikamon8 months ago

Hey there! I tried making Oogoo just recently and it worked great but I was wondering about something. Is there a way to make Oogoo bond to surfaces by itself like Sugru could? Also, if I use less corn starch, would that help make the surface more repellent to sweat? I'm planning on making a mouse grip and would love to make this workout! Thanks and great instructable! :D

mikey77 (author)  Shikamon7 months ago

As I mentioned in the instructable, Oogoo does not bond as well to some plastics as Sugru does. You can try putting a thin coating of superglue or a thin coating of pure silicone caulk on the surface. Let it set up overnight and then apply the Oogoo.

If that does not work you can try for a mechanical connection. Use whatever glue will work on your surface to glue fabric or thin plastic mesh onto the surface. Once dry you can add the Oogoo.

I have not had any trouble with sweat on Oogoo. Clean it occasionally with soapy water and it should work fine.

scribbley mikey776 months ago

not sure if this will help but there are mould release agents used in the composites industry which for some reason seem to have the opposite effect on silicon,the only reason I could come up with was that the release agents have some sort of silicon base and those guys spent a lot of money finding ways of getting it to stick to composite moulds.

I think it was called frekote

Shikamon mikey777 months ago

Ok Mikey! I'll try putting some silicone caulk on my mouse then. Should have thought of that before. xD Thanks again and have a happy new year! :D

Ironwave7 months ago
Thanks for this.
It is posibly the second handiest thing I have ever encountered.

And what is the handiest thing that you have ever encountered??

Very cool. :-)
Tyleriz6 months ago
mgandm56 months ago

Hey I just wanted to check for permission to use your ible (not exactly). My friend and I came up with the best idea for a contest entry ever, but we want to use sugru. We can't really buy the stuff because it is pretty steep. So I was gonna use your recipe. HOWEVER, I wasn't thinking about just copying you, I'm just gonna direct my readers to your ible. If it all sounds good to you thank you so very much. If not, I tried.

P.s. Think of it as listing a resource.

mikey77 (author)  mgandm56 months ago

Oogoo is an open source material that is available to use in anyway that people find useful.

If you have a new use for Oogoo that people will find useful and are willing to share the information, I am totally for it.

If you mention a link to the Oogoo ible, that would be nice.

Go for it.

SixFootBlue6 months ago

Would molds made with this be safe for oven baking/boiling polymer clays in? I successfully created some molds with this the other night, and was considering using fimo as a casting material, just it needs to be baked at around 120C. I would like to do so without separating the clay from the mold first and risking warping it. Just I'd have to use our family oven where which we use to cook food in. Would it be safe to oven bake the clay while it's still in the silicone mold?

(Also, fantastic tutorial, and glad you explained some of the chemistry behind it. I'll definitely run out and buy more silicone when I get the chance.)

mikey77 (author)  SixFootBlue6 months ago

Oogoo will handle the temperatures required for baking or boiling polymer clays.

I would not recommend using your family oven to do this. Many silicones contain anti-fungal additives that could leave harmful residues in your oven.

An inexpensive toaster oven would be the way to go.

Hmm, alright. Though if the tube doesn't have any indication that it contains anti-fungal additives, would you deem it safe or no?

I was looking over the different silicone varieties available when buying them, and found that certain tubes (Mainly the kitchen and bath) ones indicated that anti-fungal additives were in the silicone, while the all-purpose one I purchased had no such indication. The tube also states on the back that it is not for surfaces that exceed 205C, which is almost 100 degrees higher than the polymer clay baking temperature I require. (I'm using the GE All Purpose Silicone I) Could I trust the tube, or would it be best to contact the manufacturer. Or just avoid using it in the family oven altogether?

mikey77 (author)  SixFootBlue6 months ago

No one on earth knows whether it is safe or not.

So why take the chance?

A toaster oven can be found at a yard sale for $10 to $20.

A new one is $30 to $40.

That is what I would try.

hilarie757 months ago

I inspired to try making your Oogoo thanks for sharing your efforts!

Have you tried mixing powder pigments (like Jacquard or Rit dye for fibers) with the cornstarch?

mikey77 (author)  hilarie756 months ago

Most powdered pigments will work with Oogoo.

Theo217 months ago

Hello - Any ideas on how to make a batch that is reusable but still cures to mold? Would like to be able to reuse if possible. Thanks.

mikey77 (author)  Theo217 months ago

Silicone and Oogoo are almost impossible to dissolve without industrial strength chemicals. You can, however chop up old Oogoo and mix it with fresh Oogoo to recycle the stuff.

Novelchip has done an excellent instructable on how to do this:

mikey77 (author)  mikey777 months ago

Here is the link: http://www.instructables.com/id/Recycle-oogoo/

cusco197 months ago

how long does it take to completely dry up and harden? which brand of 100% silicon gaulk have you guys had very good success with? i wasn't able to find those in home depot or lowes. :(

any suggestions would be great! i'm trying to make some replacement grips. thanks.

WarrenF29 months ago

Hi, i see this is a old post so hope someone is still out there. Mixed oil paint with cheap white silicon but it seem to not be drying/curing? Any ideas what is going wrong here?

more corn starch?

Try using a paint that is not oil based, I think the oil is the problem.

Davlof7 months ago
Awesome, thank you!
Mr AbAk7 months ago
Nice Idea
Thanks for sharing!!
LydiaP9 months ago

Thank you for the instructuble. When you say "metals that melt at low temperatures can be cast", what is the highest temperature you think it could handle?

mikey77 (author)  LydiaP9 months ago

I have only tried it with bismuth which melts at about 520 degrees F.

Metal alloys that melt at that temperature or less should work with Oogoo.

If your are an adventurous experimenter, you could try adding fine sand or red iron oxide to increase the temperature of metal castable Oogoo.

tkjtkj mikey777 months ago

Just a cautionary note: bismuth, one of the 'heavy metals' that include mercury, arsenic, lead, can be quite toxic ... Vapors from heating could be especially dangerous so please take precautions.. SERIOUS precautions .. Here is a rather comprehensive ref article:


Snellingkorey7 months ago

Great idea with lots of possibilities

wolvmarine7 months ago

I was wondering if you ever experimented with using a ziplock bag to mix it up and once mixed thoroughly cutting a corner out of the bag and dispensing it like homemade frosting onto the project at hand? Also leaving it in the ziplock bag and molding around obtuse/shallow shapes?

andy.knote8 months ago

Excellent Instructable. Many many possibilities- Nice Work!

Pamela SpiroW8 months ago

Batik dye is water soluble and makes really incredible colors in corn starch paint (dye and water and cornstarch). I haven't yet tried this incredible instructable although I plan to tomorrow when I can purchase some silicone caulk-- but I wanted to offer this alternative to oil paints for coloring oogoo, in case it would work better. Thanks so much for these very clear instructions. Very exciting and a terrific idea!

SparkySolar9 months ago
Wicked cool
davidbarcomb9 months ago

Cool project. Thanks for sharing

SparkySolar9 months ago

I am so going to try this

SparkySolar9 months ago

I am so going to try this

IamTheMomo10 months ago
I am on a tablet &7 want to dowload the PDF, but it isn't showing. How can I do that? I love the 'ible! Thanks!
cammers11 months ago

Thanks for a great Instructable. I used Oogoo to anchor a car mount for my tablet. Here's my I'ble for the project...


howtopals made it!11 months ago

Nose piece on my glasses broke. Fixed them with oogoo. Thanks!

Ratman Props11 months ago

Can anyone tell me what the library life is for this stuff if I make a mold for some parts I want to cast?

traceyp11 year ago


Rasmis traceyp112 months ago

Comments suggest adding naphtha for a more fluid version. Which brings me to another question: What do you mean, when you write naphtha? It's quite a loose term. Is it white spirit? Petroleum? Turpentine?

Thanks, I used this to make my radio earpiece fleshy. It isn't durable, maybe since it takes a lot of abuse in my bag and while being worn, or maybe because I mixed eyeshadow with the cornstarch to get the color.

mircea_p11 year ago

I want to tell you that oogoo is great, but i find it difficult to add the right amount of corn stack, in order to have a non-sticky mix. An easy alternative is to mix the silicon directly in soppy-water, after 30 sec if you have water on your hands the silicon is not sticky. Check out this alternative, I try it an is amazing:


Has anyone been playing with the "self-healing" properties of silicone and what one might use as a catalyst?

CT41 year ago

Great Idea. There is however one major flaw that you keep pointing out with out knowing it.....the Acetic Acid. This is a killer for any electronic circuit and should not be used on any thing important. I can speak with authority on this as I encapsulate electronic circuits for a living. A client who started using our services had makes animal tracking tags that they had sealed with the silicone you are using, within 2 weeks every one of the 800 tags had failed! On opening them the circuits where green and corroded, a very expensive mistake on their behalf. We use silicone but it must be the natural cure type, this may be the GE silicone you referred to in your article I am not sure as we do not have that brand in Australia, and therefor may not work with the corn starch.

maddavo CT41 year ago

The silicone to use for electronic circuits is Dow Corning 744. It is a neutral cure RTV. It is available from Element 14 in Australia (part#1922181). It cures in the presence of moisture (humidity). I'm not sure the cornstarch trick will make it cure faster. Maybe water? But then you don't really want to get electronic ccts wet.

mikey77 (author)  CT41 year ago
You are somewhat correct.

If you use full strength silicone caulk, if it is thick enough, it will take days to set up and the acetic acid can corrode copper circuit boards in that time.

That is not what I have suggested.

Oogoo sets up much faster and in twenty four hours most of the acetic acid has dissipated. In a thin application, (.12 inches or less) the amount of corrosion on copper or solder or tin is minute and will not effect the circuit in a significant way.

Also, you can also spray paint the circuit board with spray paint lacquer before encapsulation and the protection against corrosion will be close to 100 per cent.

Hey Mikey.... you are a genius! Thanks for posting this well written instructable. Have you or anyone else found any resource for larger than tube quantities of 100% silicone caulk? I have some bigger projects that could use a gallon at a time... or or a five gallon bucket that can be resealed could work if it can maintain a shelf life after opening.

mikemorana2 years ago
How well does oogoo handle hardware like nails and screws once it has cured? Has anyone tried drilling holes through it?
I've got a project where I need to fit a tube through a stopper (not necessarily air tight). I'm thinking of using Oogoo to make the stopper since the glass is an odd shape and drilling a 3/4" hole through its center.
mikey77 (author)  mikemorana2 years ago
You can drill holes through it. But they will be smaller and somewhat ragged.

A better way is to cast the hole in the Oogoo as you cast the stopper and use a 3/4 inch metal or plastic tube to create the hole. You can then remove it and replace it with a more permanent tube.

To drill a hole in rubber, get a piece of metal tubing the right size. Brass will do for Oogoo. Chuck a maneageable length in your drill, and if you can, slip a piece of something that just fits in the part that is chucked to prevent crushing. run a file or use a sandpaper or a sander to put a chamfer on the end to form a cutting edge( run the drill, hold tubing against file/sandpaper as it rotates), then cut a plug out of the rubber. the hole should be roughly the inner diameter of the tubing.

Bingo. I put holes in rubber stoppers using that exact method.

apburner1 year ago

This stuff is really easy to make. I got the material from Big Box Home improvement store and it's sister store Wally world and tried it. apparently not real critical on the amount of goo to starch I made up two batches and just put in a bunch of each and it just worked. Once you start stirring the acetic acid will become intense almost instantly. However after about 2 minutes it becomes almost no smell at all. You really have to try and smell it to tell it stinks. After a couple of hours there is no smell at all.

Well done Mikey77. Very useful ible. my picture was required but all I did was press it into a small plastic mixing cut to test the hardnest and see what is was like once cured. Sorry for the bad pic.

danallen821 year ago

Excellent guide! I was about to buy some Sugru, then I saw your guide. You say oogoo is a more rubbery (less firm) output then Sugru? I'm looking into using it for a motor vibration damper, so it seems that oogoo is the best choice for absorbing it.

However, does it have the bonding ability like Sugru?

If I roll the oogoo out like cookie dough, does it get to a point where it can be cut like cookie dough before it sets up more firmly?

Also, does it get solid enough while still curing so a sheet that's perhaps 1/8th inch thick be rolled out, then picked up and attached upright to an oogoo base made at the same time if I use cardboard or something to help support the upright part? And will the edges join together to make a strong solid piece?

xenor2 years ago
Some useful info for Australian experimenters having trouble finding cornstarch. I've just discovered that "Johnson's Baby Powder" is claiming to be "pure cornstarch". Should be able to pick some up at Woolworth's. I'll give it a whirl and report back.

just noting that for anyone who doesn't know, what the Americans call "cornstarch" the British and Aussies call "cornflour" - same stuff.

jmintuck1 year ago

WOW! Home made Oogoo, or home made "sugru. That is cool. If I were in my grungy old apartment with my old furniture, I am sure I would've done it for real. I am in a fancy house with the house furniture, so I can't justify doing this.But, yes, if you are adventurous, guys, go for it. I love this kind of stuff, it makes me feel less dependent on stores and shops if I were to try it and not have to $hell out $ for the regular sugru.

jleblanc10 made it!1 year ago

The chain mail casting was done with black Lepage's Polyurethane caulk. The inside of the mold was dusted with fine metallic powder, then rubbed off the high spots to give the black background.

The golf balls were slush cast Smooth-on 2 part polyurethane resin. The mother mold (stiff exterior) was made with cotton wipers impegnated with the resin.

oogoo molds.png
Tracy3663 years ago
Does anyone know how to make a mixture so that the rolled sheet of silicone oogoo is tacky once it sets up.... And stays tacky? Like to use as squares of tape to hang childrens art one the walls? Not quite as sticky as tape but tacky

I've seriously tried sex lube. Not the water based, but the silicone oil which is primarilly siloxane oil. It can make the silicone sticky like an airsoft gel target, but iirc, that was 1:1:1 ratio. Maybe if you use more. the only problem I see is that the cure time increases with more lube. The brand I found is Mood, but there are others.

gtoal Tracy3663 years ago
Could you do an experiment for us - try adding a small amount of anything that contains sulphur and see if that helps? (this is just a theory, haven't tried it myself)
Evpraxia1 year ago


Has anyone repaired Clark shoes with this sugru substitute? If so, what is the best way to do the repair? What ratio of silicone and corn starch should I use? Even if I am not able to repair the shoes I am Really glad to find this instructable!

welsh58boy1 year ago

Really good thank you.

waynekamp1 year ago

I really like this and plan on giving it a try. Can you tell me if the cured product is paint-able or can be colored with a marker? I know as regular silicone it is not, but I was wondering if the addition of the cornstarch would help.

GeorgeTheJournalist made it!1 year ago

I had my eye on this I'ble for a while now, but couldn't get the silicone. It was sold out in all of the local shops, probably because of oogoo :D

It sets really quickly, even when using 1 part starch to 2 parts silicone. I used some leftover blue food coloring but I probably added it too late - it was rather difficult to mix properly.

If it's not clear from the picture, I used my first small batch to fix a cord on a laptop charger.

Thanks for this I'ble!

Triclaw made it!1 year ago

I used it to make some throwing ribs for pottery and I have many more projects in mind for it

achand81 year ago

This thing is very sticky, I tried soap on my hands still it didnt wash away. But using a cloth instead helped

I wonder if arrowroot wouldn't be better than cornstarch. At least in the realm of cooking, arrowroot is better than cornstarch when working with acidic ingredients (and vinegar is acid, of course) . Also, tapioca, Instant ClearJel, etc. could be used.

Have you tried deliberately moistening the starch (perhaps even creating a thick slurry with it), instead of just counting on moisture adsorbed (not a misspelling!) from the air?

P.S. The reason I ask about moistening the starch is that it would be more controllable and less subject to the exigencies of climate and weather if you could deliberately moisten or even saturate the starch with water first. I assume that if this works, you'd also use less of the starch.

mikey77 (author)  Battlespeed1 year ago

The acid does not seem to react with the cornstarch and it mostly dissipates in 24 hours.

The cornstarch produces very consistent results even in areas of low humidity. Adding more water tends to make it set up lumpy and make it harder to control an even setup.

jleblanc101 year ago
I have experimented with this stuff for a while, and wanted to thank you for posting it. Really handy! I also wanted to contribute a discovery. I mixed in a silicone sex lube, which is basically siloxane, and found that it lowered the durometer and extended the working and cure time. This can just soften the rubber, or if you add more, make it sticky like an airsoft target or one of those pads that sticks your phone to the car dashboard. Also, the pigments that Michael's sells for casting resin works really well.
jdgabbard1 year ago
Very impressed with this writing. I've been looking for an affordable substitute for use with Legos cases for electronics. And I think this should do well. Thanks!
kenyer made it!1 year ago

I had to try the new [I made it] button :)

jferva1 year ago

did you ever try acrylic paint or even food colours for clouring, instead of oil-based? do you (or anyone) know if it works? I need to finish a quick project and have no time to go out for a different colorant. Thaaaaanks!!!

Andixx jferva1 year ago


Yes, it's possible to use acrylic paint in any case! And I guess, food-colours too.

To dye oogoo, it's mostly advised to use oil-base paint, because it doesn't contains water. Unlike acrylic paint, which is water-based.

Silicone dries based on water - the more water there is in the oogoo, the faster it dries, bzw. the processing time for handling the material ends (reputed!) in less time, than with water-free (for example oil-based paint) substances.

But I'm serious - I dyed my oogoo with acrylic paint and didn't notice a too-short-drying time.

I've learned that from an oogoo-maker on youtube. In his video, he explains that too and is using also acrylic paint.

At 2:10 - 2:35, the video is in german.

Greetings from Germany....Andi :)

jferva Andixx1 year ago
Awesome! Thank you so much for the abundance of information! I finally used powdered food colour and it did the job flawlessly. I will watch the video you sent here for more details. Thanks again! This method is amaaaaaaaaazing!!!
THX 11381 year ago

Why cornflour and not regular flour?

nicko02 years ago
does the cornstarch inside the cured oogoo absorb moisture?

and could there be an issue with corn starch being food for microorganisms.

ideas on 0 food value/ not gonna grow anything moisture carrying substitute?

and or one that becomes non absorbent once its in the oogoo

I read that the person who patented Sugru started with a mixture of silicone and sawdust.

what about trying talcum powder? I dont think you'll have much luck with the non absorbant ingredient idea....kinda defeats the purpose. May as well just use Caulk and get ready for a long wait. You could try adding a bit of methylated spirts to it.....it would kill any potential organisms that you may be worried about. Read the "Howit works section" it explains it all. Good luck with your oogoo adventures!
Wingloader1 year ago

This is the most useful ible i've seen in a long time. Thank you for taking the time to do this very in depth write up.

jcbeaver73 years ago
how do I figure out how many watts an LED is? I looked at the packages and none of them said how many watts they were....

I thought of something to add but can't edit my previous reply to include it. You could determine the power of your LEDs by measuring the current flowing through them when applying a voltage (the correct voltage might be between 2.4 - 3.2 V based on my very limited experience; red LEDs use lower voltages). Use your multimeter in series with the LED to measure the current and then use it in parallel to measure the voltage. Multiply the voltage and current to calculate the power (P = VI) in SI units.

1W+ LEDs require a heatsink and you'd know their wattage when buying because it would be an important specification. I imagine that the LEDs you have are garden variety low-current (20-30 mA?) which would be about 40-90 mW, depending.

To work out the wattage of a LED, you need to know P = I*V
(P=Wattage, I=Current, V=Voltage)
Most LEDs are around 3V and 0.02A

So P = 0.02 * 3
So P = 0.06 watts

So a 3V 0.02A (20mA) LED is 0.06 watts
ok, thanks!
cepterbi1 year ago

one of the better instructables :D. Tnx for sharing so we have more options to develop

Thank you for a great Instructable and an amazing discovery. I've had a need for something like this for a long time. Went to the home store today, picked up a tube of DAP 100% black silicone, guesstimated my ingredient amount and made my first batch. Of course with the cornstarch it came out more of a charcoal gray, but that's OK. Worked like a champ first time!

Kudos to you!
I've been wanting sugru but this is cheaper.YOU ARE A GENIUS!
kenyer1 year ago
Great Ible! This Oogoo works great. See here how I used it to make robot wheels: http://www.instructables.com/id/Grippy-robot-wheels/
Thank you for the research you have put in to this.
kraziladi1 year ago
why does the ge stuff not work and is it still bad if it says 100% silicome?
mikedhr1 year ago
I found the patent application for Sugru and it is an interesting read for anyone interested in the patent process. http://worldwide.espacenet.com/publicationDetails/claims?CC=EP&NR=2089465B1&KC=B1&FT=D&ND=4&date=20120627&DB=EPODOC&locale=en_EP

Jane's story http://sugru.com/story is inspirational to anyone who has an idea and thinks it might be useful to others
shakescar1 year ago
Ok, so back to the drawing board... Must have mixed wrong... Came out like pizza dough. Did manage to fix a key fob.. But 18 hours and it hasn't set up. May try a hair dryer on it later if it hasn't hardened yet... Overdid the cornstarch, hoping it would dry quickly.
JestGold1 year ago
Wow. Amazing discovery, and just the thing I've been looking for to cast some cement tiles a la Frank Lloyd Wright.

Question: I saw deep in the comments that someone substituted corn syrup for corn starch. Aside from bringing moisture into the mass of silicone, will using corn syrup obviate the need for a thinner like naphtha, or do I still need to add it to lower the viscosity?

Idea: there is a YouTube video of someone who molds masks from 50/50 mix of silicone and naphtha brushed on in several layers. He then uses a thicker mix with cheesecloth imbedded in each to add support/tear resistance (see link below).

Many thanks!

mikey77 (author)  JestGold1 year ago
If you add corn syrup or acrylic or anything that has large amounts of water in it, it will tend to set up quite fast and often be lumpy in the way it sets up. Using corn starch will usually give you more uniform results and a longer working time.

For what you are doing you can probably use a regular mix of Oogoo--1 silicone caulk to 1 corn starch. If you want a longer working time, use a 3 to 1 mix.

If you put on a thin mix of Oogoo and carefully smooth it over the object to be molded, you can usually get a mostly bubble free mold. After covering in a thin layer you can then go back and glob on larger amounts of Oogoo to make the mold solid enough. You can embed mesh if you want to save on Oogoo.

If you want a totally bubble free mold (probably not necessary when casting cement), you can thin Oogoo with naphtha and paint it on the object and then let it set up overnight. You can then add more regular Oogoo to reinforce the mold.

Hope that helps.
I suppose the only thing left to do is actually - what's the word? - experiment!
I will post the results.

Many thanks and kudos for a great idea.
shakescar1 year ago
Wonder what happens when you bake it? Like polymer clay? Another thought... Could you use this like resin, like fiberglass... Saturate fabric with it... Place it on a form... Let it cure... Oh well, I'll give it a shot tomorrow!
bd51 year ago
Can you tell me exactly what kind of Silicone glue you bought at Walmart? I bought (and returned) some which was that GE II stuff. We've got walmart over here. What are a few brands which work? I need to make a bunch of this stuff. Great instructable by the way!
JestGold bd51 year ago
Anything that is 100% silicone. I just bought a tube of GE Supreme Silicone at Home Depot. Ace also carries it as well as their own house brand, and I've seen other commenters buying a house brand at WalMart. Just make sure that whatever the brand, wherever you buy it, somewhere on the label it's "100% silicone." Nothing else is going to work.
bd5 JestGold1 year ago
Thanks a bunch!
padbravo1 year ago
I tried talc and SiO2 (cab-o-sil)... both works great... less hardeness than starch...

padbravo1 year ago
A couple of notes about things to mix for more variations:

Oogoo mixed with starch is somehow hard... to overcome this I found two aditives that could improve the softness or elastic properties...

a) Instead of starch, use an additive common for the modelmakers: Cabosil (SiO2)... its used with acrylic resins... its almost weightless...

b) Add white glue (the one used for wood), a 10% (more or less)... it will improve curing time and add flexibility...
krawczuk1 year ago
i dont know what type of slicone sealant you have in the states , but a smoothing tyme of seconds ??? in australia the silicone sealant we use has a smoothing time of at least 10 to 15 min , i just wet me finger with saliva and smooth it. or i think you can buy a special spray tooooooo smooth it as well.
and you can get acetic free cure silicone here too.
londobali1 year ago
Great 'ible Mikey77,
Very extensive research and well put together.
I'll add this to my collection, will use it for sure in my future projects.. :)

Thanks for sharing!
agarcia602 years ago
I don't know if anyone is still checking out this instructable, but I had to sign up to share my results just in case. I learned of using silicone caulk for casting molds a long time ago, but the curing process was just too tedious. In my impatience, I destroyed many castings and when I was patient, the mold sat untouched for long periods of time. I did eventually get a clean mold, but the curing time was prohibitive. It was by chance that I found this instructable and I cannot express enough appreciation for this tip. That's my story and now here are my own results with this method:


*GE waterproof silicone from Wal-Mart (white)
*Corn starch from Wal-Mart
*Paint thinner again from Wal-Mart

As suggested by previous posters, I followed a 1-1-1 ratio, mixing 1/4 cup of each part (silicone, corn starch, & paint thinner) in an Anchor glass mixing cup (also available at Wal-Mart). The silicone was not exactly pourable, but it was very smooth and easy to spoon, unlike the 1-1 ratio of silicone to corn starch, which was like peanut butter. For me, the mixing was very easy using the paint thinner and the cleanup was equally as easy. With a paper towel, the silicone wiped right off my stirrer, a plastic spatula (not the burger flipping kind), and using mineral oil, the silicone came right out of my glass mixing container; soap and water finished the job. I used a popsicle stick to apply the silicone to the part to create a one-piece mold. Within 2 hours (playing it safe), the silicone was completely cured. Based on observation, however, I am convinced that the silicone was completely cured within 45 minutes. While removing the mold, the silicone ripped in a place where I had applied it too thinly so I reinserted the item into the mold and applied more silicone, which bonded nicely. I ended up with a few air bubbles in my original "pour" but that was a result of not pressing the silicone into some of the deeper features. The bubbles were minor though and not noticeable. After removing the mold a second time without additional tearing, I used PermaStone break-resistant casting material (Hobby Lobby) to cast my mold. To prevent against bubbles and sticking, I used Airid bubble preventer (Hobby Lobby). The results were outstanding, awesome, and fantastic! Using the PermaStone, the cast part actually came out heavier than the original resin part. Pictures are below. They are large so you can see the detail that was captured in the casting.

I have been wanting to cast my own lion statues, foo dogs, wall mounts, etc and this technique now empowers me to do these larger objects at a fraction of the cost. I now need to practice at making mother molds. Thank you, thank you, and thank you. By the way, my first mold was very flexible, which made removing it from the piece quite easy. While the mold was stubborn at points, I did not find the silicone to be brittle on the fine details or deep cuts. Had I used a mold release, I am sure the mold would have separated from the part with much greater ease.

*NOTE: I did use protective equipment in an open area while working with the silicone and I suggest to anyone working with these materials to do the same, just to be safe (gloves, goggles, and dual cartridge respirator inexpensively available at Harbor Freight Tools).

Thanks for reading and good luck to everyone.

pple still come here
tktaylor3 years ago
People have been commenting that it can be irritating to skin, but that is only during the curing process, correct? If I can stand minor potential irritation during the curing process, then it should have no ill effects once it's cured? I'm assuming that's correct since there's plenty of personal use silicone products like wristbands and stuff. Is this a safe assumption?
that stuff is most likely food grade that womt hurt the human body... hmm i wonder has any tried using the food grade stuff at all?
Well, I recently tried making a practicle joke from this. I left it for two whole weeks in the open air and ended getting a relatively large allergic reaction.
I dont have that sensitive skin but this rash like thing is rather bad.
I hope this helps you.
Also if you are making jewelary try testing a small bit of it before doing anyting to adventurous.
It was probably a chemical burn that you noticed. The vinegar smell is due to the acetic acid that's released in the curing process. I made some custom fit earbuds with oogoo and the acid left my ears raw and red. I even had coated the insides of my ears with petroleum jelly.
Literally anything can provoke an allergic reaction. That is because the problem is not in the substance itself, but in the individual's immune system. Once the system misidentifies a substance as a threat, it attacks it an all the body parts touching the substance.

People prone to allergic reactions just have a "programming error" in their immune systems at a low level. Once that happens, you can get reactions from a wide array of substances that perfectly innocuous.

The major source of chemical irritation in this case is going to be vinegar in the silicone. It is an acid and it is pure i.e. undiluted by water. Back in the day, when vinegar was widely used for many processes, people were killed by breathing vinegar fumes because the acetic acid destroyed their lungs.
adisharr2 years ago
I'm kind of surprised to see this from the author of this instructable. Believe it or not, some people don't have a lot of time to try out ideas.

I might be getting crazy here but is it frowned upon to ask questions here?
ask away its how we all learn!
I have been looking for a replacement for sugru, I will try those soon.
boom man562 years ago
can you make it with out 100% corn starch?
no corn starch is a powder
mbelew1 year ago
To help with the vinegar smell you can water whip the silicone, this process can also be used to adjust the viscosity of silicone caulk. Squirt the caulk into an empty tub, pour some water in, stir it around vigorously (I use a metal kitchen whisk), pour the water back out. The caulk will thicken up quickly. If you need to, add a bit of toluene (common paint thinner/solvent) back in to thin it out a bit and extend the working time. It will still cure quickly, 10 minutes to harden, 24 hours to cure.

This process of water whipping the caulk is somewhat common in mold making for jewelry design. If I remember correctly my mentor added Talc based baby power as his "corn starch" equivalent when he needed to hand work the silicone. I think he used a powder that had Talc, Corn Starch and Sodium Bicarbonate as its ingredients. I know some of the molds he has made lasted 10 - 15 uses, and could last years.

I hope this helps someone.
makerobot2 years ago
1. Would it help if you gave the Oogoo more time before you put them into your ear?
2. Would your ears burn with Sugru, too? Or is this just an Oogoo problem?
I've made custom fit ear plugs with Sugru & it does not burn.You only have to keep the Sugru in your ear for a few seconds until you shape it to your ear, you don't leave it in till it cures.That's the point of Sugru it holds it's shape immediately.
drcrash2 years ago
Seems to me that you may have inadvertently made biodegradable plastic. (Adding cornstarch to plastic is a standard way of making plastic biodegradable.)

The cornstarch is edible by microorganisms, and if there's more than a very small percentage cornstarch, it will tend to make a connected network of edible particles all through the plastic, which will eventually rot into a web of weakness and the plastic will tend to crumble into a grainy mess under stress.

I would think that damp talcum powder or something like that would make a better carrier of moisture into the silicone to get it to set, without being edible by little bugs.

drcrash drcrash2 years ago
Another very spiff trick I've seen with (expensive) two-part silicone is to increase its volume by mixing it with a controlled amount of naphtha before casting it, then let the naphtha evaporate out, and it shrinks very evenly, to scale things down pretty precisely.

Mixing caulk with talc, then a controlled amount of naphta and little acrylic paint might let you scale things down and get a sugru-like result.
drcrash drcrash2 years ago
I just remembered I've read about people adding a little bit of (water-based) acrylic paint to silicone caulk, too. It adds moisture to help it cure through, with the side benefit that the pigment in the paint helps you tell when you've thoroughly mixed the stuff---when it's all the same tone with no little streaks, it's good. Combining a little talc and a little acrylic paint might be good, especially if you mix the talc and paint first, then mix that with the caulk. That would tell you whether the paint AND the talc were well-mixed with the silicone.
sosalosaros2 years ago
You, Sir, are a genius! I actually went to town today to by some of the moldable silicone putty, as I am casting some jewellry molds art the moment. Turns out that I forgot my wallet and drove home in a crappy mood, coz I REALLY wanted to buy it and get started, and it was too late to go back to the shops before they closed. I dunno why people hadnt thought of this earlier....um,,,silicone + solvent = runny and soon to set again silicone. Absolutely brilliant write up. I am in your debt my friend.... Cheers!
Man, that happens to me all the time. I want to buy something so I can get started, and am either pressed for time because of another appointment, or the store is soon to close.
ecrouch2 years ago
I made some custom fit earbuds with Oogoo for when I mow. Here's what I learned....stuffing silicone down your ear hole burns. The acid that is released during the curing process is significant. Basically, I gave my ears a chemical peel.
custom fit earbuds = great idea. i want to try.

how about snipping the fingertips off of some latex gloves and using them as a sheath between your ears and the oogoo? think that would work?
ecrouch2 years ago
Does the vinegar smell ever go away? It's been a week since my last project and the smell is still present. I tried soaking my project in a baking soda bath. That didn't work well. I was hoping the baking soda would react with the acetic acid. Any suggestions?
Found these at walmart but wasn't sure if they would work. Can anyone confirm if these will work. First is an all-purpose silicone "sealant". It was the only thing I could find that came close to silicone caulk, since it was literally right next to the caulk and the forbidden GE Silicone II caulk. Second is an oil based paint (at least I'm pretty sure it is). I couldn't find if it was linseed oil based (or if that even matters?) so I wasn't sure if I should get it. Any help would be great. BTW awesome write up!
I bought that same sealant from walmart and it works fine. I don't know about the paint.
mikey77 (author)  Spaceman Spiff2 years ago
Yes, that looks like the right silicone. It should say 100% silicone on the side.

The paints should also work to color the Oogoo.
nyagain2 years ago
i would like to make a form for bio-plastic projects. will this release well?
richi5272 years ago
i started playing with this stuff a few days ago and made a glove mould of a rose puzzle. The only problem i'm having is filling the mould with Oogoo, it's to thick. is there any way of thinning it to a near runny consistency?
I have heard of using acrylic paint to thin just silicone for simple molds, I would see no reason why it would not work here. From what I have heard, it doesn't take much so a drop or two at a time.
Hmmm... Thanks for the tip. I think I've tried everything except dog slobber. LOL. Do you remember where you've heard of this acrylic trick?
that ring was made out of bismuth: melting point 520ish
pewter casting silicone can only take up to 300
I find a wood screw works best for cleaning out the tip of the caulk tube, if you dont use the caulk for a long period of time the caulk will eventually cure around the screw, but then all you have to do is grab it with some pliers and pull it out and it will pull the cured silicon plug out with it.
I am currently half way through renovating my house and had a great idea the other day. Quite often I will use a number of caulking type tubes (caulk, grip fix etc.) of the same type in one day. I used to always use the new supplied tip with each new tube. Now though if I am using another tube of the same substance I use the old tip and save the new one. I have quite a small collection now. So if I now leave half a tube unused for a period of time and it's too difficult to clean out I have the option of using one of my spare tips.
bazketmakr4 years ago
I tried to make custom orthotics for a pair of sandals today. I just globbed the sticky stuff in where the arch is, dusted my foot with cornstarch, and put the shoe on. I smashed it a little with my hand, to make sure it stayed under the arch, and then just left it there until hardened. I did one foot at a time. It seems to have stuck to the leather just fine, and i am going to try wearing them tomorrow. i am very happy for this alternative, as the expensive orthotic i currently have does not fit every shoe...thanks for a great idea! I had been buying alot of sugru, and am really tickled to find a less expensive alternative!
What a fantastic use for this great 'ible. I have many shoes that would benefit from a custom orthotic.
I would love to know how they are holding up? Do they last as long as the rather expensive consumer ones?

jackowens2 years ago
So this is basically like soft rubbery glue?
mikey77 (author)  jackowens2 years ago
No, it is more like inner tube rubber except it is stretchier and not as tear resistant.

It can be glued with silicone to PLA and acrylic,
pnsgal2 years ago
Has anyone tried Durham Rock Hard putty (powder) mixed with the silicone?
I am not familiar with that product, but I have used plaster of paris in place of cornstarch -- almost 50/50 mix, if I recall correctly. Worked well; end result was like plaster, but hard and squishy instead of hard and chalky. Might be similar... I suspect concrete products would also work. Some day I'm going to try casting a silicone/concrete washbasin...
dmorell12 years ago
Question, can I use epoxy instead of Gorilla Glue?
Where I live they don't sell it and none of the other brands that are similar to Gorilla Glue.
Does anybody know if potato starch will work for this?
Yes, it works. Not having corn starch at hand I used potato starch twice. Got perfect results both times.
Thanks for noting.
superpants4 years ago
I have been experimenting with something similar myself- mainly as I wanted to custom colour silicone. I have found that talcuum powder works well as a substitute for the cornstarch- I tend to mix a small amount of water with it and the colouring to form a paste, and then mix with the paste with the silicone. The key advantage of the talc is that it is in-organic so there will be no issue in the future with it supporting fungal or bacterial growth. Hope this helps some people!
I've tried talcum powder too, for the reason I didn't want organic stuff in it. I don't know if it rots eventually, or gets eaten by bugs...

I thought it was ok, but then I tried gypsum powder (to make molds with). That worked much better. (no water, 1 part G 1 part S)

But I would like to know if there will be a (chemical) reaction between the silicone and the gypsum in the long term... Maybe someone can tell me, so that I don't have to wait for a year to see what happens :-)
Quick question though, where did you get gypsum powder?
Drywall patching in powder form is Gypsum.
Maybe it is also called plaster of paris? I got mine in a ceramics supply store. I live in Holland. I suppose you can get it in diy stores too, but I think there will be some kind of glue mixed into it.
Are you using actual talc powder or baby powder (which I believe is is actually cornstarch based)? What once was used as baby powder no longer contains actual mineral talc because talc turned out not to be that great to be exposed to in large quantities.
Natural talc is a mineral that also sometimes contains thin fiber structures that are classified as asbestos. When the great asbestos panic/lawyer-gold-rush started three decades ago, people got convinced that asbestos would kill you if you just looked at it so anything with asbestos.

Like all minerals, the carcinogenic properties of talc, asbestos, silica (sand) etc all come from mechanical abrasion causing irritation, inflammation, cell production etc which can eventually cause a cancer. However, to get any significant chance of actually getting cancer, you have to exposed to literally 10,000 times or more than you would in normal use.

Prior to the 1970s, asbetos was the ONLY flexible fire proof material and they put it in everything from gas hoses to all types of tiles, insulation etc. Basically, everything that might at some time face heat or fire had asbestos put in it.

Yet, the number of cancers caused by asbestos remain microscopic for the generation exposed.

In the case of talc, you could use natural talc once a day, everyday for decades and it would have the same statistical effect on life expectancy as crossing the street once or eating five bananas (from radiation from the potassium.)
Have not verified but, I heard that it may cause vaginal and or cervical and or uterine cancer. I wouldn't let it touch my skin.
Interesting comment- In short, I don't know, I had made the assumption that talcuum powder still was talc. I'll have to investigate.
It is genuine talc- not cornstarch, so no issue!
Hi All! I've been reading most comments with great interest. Did anyone ever try to use calcium oxide or even calcium hydroxide instead of cornstarch? Thanks a lot and keep with the good work!!
AHHH!! I see someone else had the Talc idea! Good to see!
t1d2 years ago
I tried Kool-Aid as the colorant... The powder does not dissolve in the silicone. So, it adds a grainy texture to the mix and does not impart the color very well. Further, the color leaches out of the dried oogoo. The ascorbic acid did not seem to effect the final product.
veeguy t1d2 years ago
This might make a great practical joke material! Use a grape Kool-Aid to mold a squeeze type hand exerciser or similar item and hand it to your "chump" to try out. They will exercise their hands by squeezing it, and end up with purple palms! Priceless, and the color will wear off in a few days -or so...
veeguy2 years ago
I just want to throw this out there... There is an auto racing supply shop in our city that is housed in a Geodesic dome building. I've been buying stuff from him for years for my race car. One time I was in there, and I noticed he had silicone caulk for sale by the checkout counter. He always had small tubes of automotive silicone gasket sealer, but these were large caulking gun size tubes. As I thought this was a strange item for his store I asked him about it.

He told me that he had actually built the large dome structure his store is in. There are a hundred or more large triangular panels joined to make the structure, each one with 30 or 40 feet of joints. When he had built it, he used a silicone caulk to seal the joints ( the construction method is: panel-silicone rubber gasket-panel with a bead of silicone caulk on the outside, covered by aluminum flashing) the original Home center type silicone started failing after about 2 years, causing leaks. He wrote to some other dome owners he knew and was told to buy either 100% silicone aquarium sealant (expensive!) or "contractors grade" 100% silicone caulk, and to remove the old caulk and reseal with this stuff. He took their advice and it had been over 9 years without a single leak. He was so impressed that he started stocking the "contractor grade" stuff (both to sell and have on hand "just in case") It really didn't cost much more than Home center caulk, so I picked up a tube.

A few weeks later, I ran my aluminum duck skiff on to some rocks and ripped about a 16" gash in the bottom. I took it home, flipped it upside down, hammered the ragged edges flat and used some sheet aluminum to make a patch. I put a bead of silicone around the hole and pushed the patch in place. I opened my toolbox to get a drill and my Pop rivet gun -found the drill and the rivet gun , but no damn rivets! My brother-in-law must think rivets are magically replaced by the Pop rivet fairy, because he was the last one to borrow the rivet gun and had used *every* *single* * rivet*!. (I always suspected him of being feeble minded, as he married my sister but this proves it beyond a doubt.)

I didn't want to run to the hardware store, so I put a sandbag on top of the patch, and went in the house for a cold one or two or.... A few days later, my son needed to work on his car in the garage, so he moved the boat behind the garage. It sat there from October until the opening day of fishing season in May. I was out on the water with my son drowning worms, when I noticed the patch on the bottom of the boat. I also remembered I had never gone back and riveted the patch to the boat. It was simply "glued" by the silicone sealant. That was about 2004..

I now have a new Bass Tracker boat (sweet!) and my son has the old duck skiff, with the original 8 year old glued on patch. No leaks, no runs, no errors!

OK, this has been a long rambling pretense to this point, but there seems to be a lot of variability to "100% silicone sealers." Some seem to have durability measured in months, others in years or even decades. I'm about to pull my Formula Ford out of it's winter storage for the season, so I'll be needing parts. I will buy some of the contractor grade silicone and a tube of the home center stuff. I wonder if anyone has tried certain brands or types and found a clear winner? If not, I'll try your excellent idea with both, and report back ASAP. I can think of about a dozen places where I want to try oogoo, thanks for the idea!
alsinel2 years ago
Yes. Not having corn starch at hand I used potato starch twice. Got perfect results both times.
So, does it have to be 100% silicone caulk? Also, does it have to be clear, or is that just your preference so you can dye it?
mikey77 (author)  willrandship2 years ago
100% silicone works the best. Colored silicone can be used but the coloring additives make it less flexible and and less adhesive.
luckily i found this , without having to read through the 400 plus comments. i thought i bought clear,but bought white, i now have bought clear, however i realize tat the white is at its expiration date. It seems the silicone caulk has about a 1 year expiration date from time bought. Something to keep an eye out for. i bought it the first time about a year ago, but got sidetracked.
I also noticed that the brand of silicone caulk i bought has two types that are clear and give off the vinegar smell, they stick to different surfaces better, one for bathrooms, one for windows household, i will use them all and see what happens. My original question was concerning the colored caulk, and i caught the answer, It should still work for some uses, i noticed the artist paints in tubes are linseed oil based, and i have linseed oil to thin. hopefully we can get a cliff notes of what all the different mixtures , such as talc and chalk and bicarbonate soda have worked for something or not. I know the original baby powder from talc also had additives, when i was a scuba diver, we didn't use the baby powder on our dry-suit seals, only talc from the pharmacy, the perfumes and additives could cause the seals( latex) to breakdown.
Great information and thanks to all for sharing their trials and errors. I agree with the early response od do it and see what happens, as long as it is not a possible dangerous reaction. The added bonus of thinning the silicone for mold making and quick drying, i will also try. Thanks for the info.
Stoffel212 years ago
I made this yesterday and it came out excellently well…except I *really* need to find a way for there to not be the vinegar/acetic acid smell. I’d like to make products with this, but I can’t have it smelling of vinegar. Has anyone found a way to neutralize the vinegar smell?
benip902 years ago
Dribbling over the possibilities, so I tried this with some cheap silicon sealant from wilkos (uk), and it took a little while to cure for a 3mm thick item (nearly an hour probably not enough corn starch but made a very flexible part), using an acrylic sheet for backing. Really good smooth results.
Cant wait to make a soft robot you are amazing
dwrocketman2 years ago
awesome brother! thank you very VERY much!
edo42 years ago
Has anyone tried using powdered tempera paints for coloring? Curious to know if that works or not.
sshirena2 years ago
Oo. Don't have to buy shares. Can just make some myself!
Curvehunter2 years ago
Has anyone tried using rice flour instead of corn starch? I am curious if the properties of your silicone mixture improves. improve. Some similar characteristics to corn starch.
t1d2 years ago
I realized that the ascorbic acid in the Kool-Aid might react with the caulk. Does any one know what might happen?
t1d2 years ago
Thank you for the wonderful instructible... I read/scanned all the comments. I did not see my suggestion: using KoolAid Drink Mix Concentrate (Without Sugar) for a colorant. I think I will give that a try.
Comes in small quantities.
Will give your Oogoo a nice scent.
Comes in a powder form.
bobbubbles4 years ago
er... how do i get these things??
i live in australia! :(
err... do you have google in australia if so type the materials into the search bar 1 at a time possibly accompanied by the word buy or purchase click on the links and magic where to buy the materials
u dont hav to ask, google is EVERYWHERE!! o.O
thanks for the suggestion, ill look into it...
except for china but yea and probly some other countries ruled by communism but nyways noprob also check your local hardware store and any craft store, the corn starch will probly b at your supermarket tho
actually, google is in china...
i saw a pic of a google centre with chinese people there and the caption said something about celebrating how china had google...
I'm currently in China, and unless you use a VPN (proxy server outside China) the Google results are heavily censored, and many Google features (blogs, profiles etc.) just don't work.
They've censored google in China?!
where have you been? Of course It's censoredas well as YouTube and the rest of the internet and other media.
I didn't know about it when I posted the comment at that time, now I do after it gaining so much news coverage and various things with Google trying to negotiate with the chinese government to get some services uncensored
what bout you? its been a year
Scary, if you think about it.:-)
You can get these things in Oz....

Silastic is the silicone - also available as a variety of other brands
Cornstarch is called 'cornflour' in Australia.... but laundry starch powder is essentially the same stuff, and cheaper.
Gorilla instant glue is SuperGlue (cyanoacrylate glue)
Gorilla white glue is the same as Aquadhere in Australia (any white PVA glue)
Ferric Chloride etchant - go to Alltronics or Dick Smith or Tandy - they sell it as a solid you dissolve, or a liquid.

Hope this helps!!
bsilva2 years ago
The corn starch I get comes in a plastic jug. Should it be left open for a few days to absorb moisture before use?

tinker2344 years ago
hi inthebathroom recomend me here i just want to know the consictcy for s human like skin
mikey77 (author)  tinker2344 years ago
A mix of 2 corn starch to 1 silicone caulk gives a smooth texture to the Oogoo that feels very close to human skin.

I have been trying to come up with an Oogoo foam that will also give it the resiliency of skin, but so far no luck.
roliop mikey773 years ago
I had a quick go at making some foam which came out slightly better than just adding bicarbonate.

My hunch was that adding gelatine might help. And more vinegar, since the amount in the caulk isn't enough for many bubbles.

So my next batch is a Gummibear disolved in strong white vinegar and mixed with cornstarch. Hopefully I can mix the bicarbonate into the caulk and then get the starch gloop in fast enough for a half-way homogeneous mixture before it all takes off. :-)

Maybe you've done some more experimenting in the meantime.

roliop roliop3 years ago
Foam update.
I think I got the best foam by dissolving the bicarbonate first.

I suspect that mixing it into the caulk in powder form is the cause of it becoming brittle later.


This may be a bit late but what did you disolve the bicarbonate into? and what ratios did you use for the bicarbonate, gelatine, white vinegar, and oogoo?
sdunn2 mikey774 years ago
I've tried the following combinations tonight:

* I mixed Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler with GE Type 1 silicone (the same type here), 1:1 ratio, and I have cellulite/flesh-like flexible and foamy consistency. It's still very flexible after a couple hours, so I assume it will stay this way. It set up slightly slower than the corn starch, but still quickly.

* 1:1 ratio of corn starch and silicone, and it worked as advertised (woohoo!), setting up quickly.

* 1:1 ratio of baking soda and silicone. I expected some kind of 3rd grade science project reaction, but I got nothing. It's crumbly and useless.

* 1:1 ratio of Johnson&Johnson baby talc powder and silcone, and there was no setup at all. It's basically drying like normal caulk. Fail.
eamc317 sdunn24 years ago
Thanks for sharing your results! Will defidently help in the future.
thanks look at scifi materials on here there is rubber that felt like skin it is creepy but cool
Can you save it if you have some left over?
Toga_Dan2 years ago
Do you live in a humid spot? Moisture in the starch might be affected.

Any word on the starch-caulk mix spoiling or being attractive to rodents?
mikey77 (author)  Toga_Dan2 years ago
Silicone caulk has anti-fungal additives, that's what allows it to be used to seal showers and tubs.

I have buried it in moist soil for a couple of weeks and it showed no sign of mold, even under a microscope.

Even with repeated handling it does not stain, spoil or smell. Rodents and insects do not find it attractive.
dinhoconrad2 years ago
Can I use this to make a custom earbud? Or is not ok to let this in contact with my skin?
cliffiv3 years ago
Any one ever try dish soap?
Like as a snack? :)

What does the inside of the funnel look like? I want to make one of these.

Is this food safe afterwards?
Rustystone4 years ago
Does anyone know if the Aussie version of corn starch is corn flour?
Yes, corn starch is corn flour. I heard on YouTube that baking powder (not baking soda!) can also be used. I'd stick with the corn starch, which is cheaper than baking powder anyway..
The baking powder I have is half corn starch and half baking soda, so I would go with the corn starch (or flour) for sure
I'm late to the game, but I'd personally avoid Baking Powder. It is generally a Baking Soda & Corn/wheat flour/starch mixture, sometimes including a mild acid that I can't remember (to prolong shelf life) as I can't imagine the Baking Soda helping too much, specially if it's moisture activated.
I would agree on that. I haven't tried the Oogoo yet, but looking at it again, I think I might.
This is confusing and i googled it, , it is probably wheat starch

See http:/ /w w w.holve.com/brad/tips/cornflour.html

I would not stick this in my ear though as others suggest to make ear buds.

foobear2 years ago
How bad would it be to use this for body casting? Like, a hand or a foot?

By the way, one time I didn't have any cornstarch, so I tried using ashes from the wood stove, and it seemed to work. It didn't cure quite as fast as cornstarch, but added an interesting stone like effect to the coloration.
DMasters4 years ago
You mention GE silicon II doesn't work due to it being neutral-cure. I was curious if you think there's an alternate method which would allow neutral-cure caulk to be used for the same purpose. I ask mainly because GE silicon II K/B supreme is what I have handy, and would rather be able to play around with my leftovers before buying a fresh tube of (hard to find around here) acid-cure.
Update: GE Silicone II K/B Supreme is a neutral alkoxy moisture curing caulk. The process, for the purposes of this 'ible, is the same as for the acetoxy moisture cure you get with the acid-cure caulk used here. The only downside is that it would be harder to tell when it's done curing because the vinegar smell isn't there.
(Tried it anyway; it reacted identically to the acid-cure Silicone I, and set up just as well. Obviously, still waiting on full cure.)
Was wondering what the end result of your silicone II curing experiment was? Did it set well? Thanks
Just to see the difference, I made the same model with both the silicone II and an acid cure silicone caulk with a 3 to 2 ratio of caulk to corn starch. The acid cure sets quite firmly, while the neutral cure still has a little give and flexibility even after full cure. In the end, the difference is minor, as long as it's a moisture-curing caulk.
any ideas on how to make the silicone II more rigid (didn't use any gorilla glue in my initial experiments), does the gorilla glue make the structure stronger or just make it stick like sugru to just about anything?
Anyone in Sweden or in the nordic countries who knows what the ingredients might be named here? especially the glue. and type of silicone?
There are two glues listed on this page, Gorilla instant glue which is a Cyanoacrylate glue usually called "super glue". It is a thin clear liquid that goes tacky in a few seconds and dries fully within minutes leaving a resin.

The second glue mentioned Gorilla white glue is Polyvinyl acetate, or PVA glue, sometimes known as Craft Glue or White Wood glue.

Corn Starch is sometimes known as Corn flour, It's commonly used to thicken gravy and custard.

Gorilla Tape is also known as Gaffer tape, cotton Cloth Tape or synthetic duct tape,

The Silicone is a tricky one because mikey77 doesn't mention any brands, So I'm not sure which he is on about. mikey77 says you want one with a vinegar smell which excludes Acylic or latex silicone caulking.

By that logic you want 100% silicone caulk, I'm not sure what brands are available in Nordic Countries, But if you go to a hardware store and find someone who is familiar with their stock you should be able to find a brand that does not add other polymers to the caulk.
Javin0073 years ago
Man, I've been LOOKING for a way to make food-safe custom corks for my honey bottles. Using food-grade silicone, this would be PERFECT! Thanks so much!
foobaz utne3 years ago
Brilliant! I just learned about the outrageously expensive original stuff and found this while searching.
blerpherp3 years ago
Will F 109 Silicone work?? (Dimethyl siloxane, hydroxy terminated, silica amorphous, methyltriacetoxysilane, Ethyltriacetoxsilane, and other bunch of stuff on the label) the label states the caulk as 100% silicone...
Would this be food safe? I was thinking about making a flexible cup and would it withstand heat?
mikey77 (author)  roboticarrow3 years ago

It is not food safe.

As I have mentioned in the comments below, Silicone caulk contains chemical additives that keep it from becoming moldy. That is how it can be used to seal showers and tubs. I have buried Oogoo under moist dirt for several weeks and it did not become moldy. I even checked it under a microscope for signs of mold.

Google food safe silicone's and you can find silicone's that are rated food safe.

Shadow13!3 years ago
I've been looking for some type of plastic or rubber like handle/grip for some of my homemade knives. Would this be strong enough and durable enough to work and would it be able to stand up to repeated use?
Maybe Plasti dip is what you're looking for? It also has many uses but I believe it was made for repairing/replacing the handles of tools. It is sold in a spray or in cans for dipping. In the US, the cheapest source I've found is Menard's stores, in the paint department.

BTW... fantastic instructable!
I've been searching for something to make the nose area of my safety glasses more comfortable and now I see a number of things I can use it for.
DragonDon3 years ago
Not having dealt with mixing odd ingredients, I would like some clarification on the following:

"A good starting mixture to try out is 1 corn starch to 1 silicone by volume."

I am taking a wild guess you are talking about EQUAL volumes of mixture?? (i.e. 1 cup of A and 1 cup of B)This is not obvious to those of us who have never done so.

Thanks in advance for the awesome info otherwise! Living in South Korea makes getting some things much more expensive because of shipping, anything I can learn to create here makes life _much_ more livable ;)
mikey77 (author)  DragonDon3 years ago
Yes, you mix it by volume.

It is easiest to mix it in small quantities so as to have plenty of time to work it. To see how it works, you could start with 1 tablespoon silicone caulk to 1 tablespoon of corn starch. You can reduce the amount of corn starch to as little as 1/4 tablespoon if you want more time to cast it or sculpt it.
mattccc3 years ago
Popopopper3 years ago
if you roll it into a ball, will it bounce?
mikey77 (author)  Popopopper3 years ago
It's no super-ball, but if you mold it into a ball, it bounces quite well.
fuzzyeagles3 years ago
any thoughts on the viablity of coating a pair of socks to make a low impact shoe?
flyingpuppy3 years ago
Bye bye sugru. I just opened my last two packets of sugru to use on my windmill project and one was already solid. I used the second but it took two days to cure (pay attention to that expiration date). The only drawback to substituting oogoo for sugru is that it won't dry hard. But it should do for a LOT of uses. Thanks for this awesome, simple idea!
maxhirez3 years ago
This is awesome. Friendly advice:when the author says wear nitrile gloves, HE MEANS IT. I had silly-cone all over the place tonight! ;-) thanks again for sharing this, Mikey77!
pbraams3 years ago
Very cool, thank you very very much.

To make the result harder (and containing less organic matter), has anyone tried adding Silicagel in powderform. Silicagel absorbs water and may release it to help the siliconecaulk to set.
gtoal pbraams3 years ago
With Oogoo the reaction is that Type I silicone adsorbs water to cure. Silica gel absorbs water so would partially negate the effect of the corn starch. However Type II caulk cures by expelling water, so silica gel could well help in that instance, though I haven't tried it yet.

(I think silica gel would only release water if warmed in an oven)

Nat2020 gtoal3 years ago
Sorry if I'm a bit slow, but which is the silicone caulk that worked out w/ the cornstarch, Type l or Type ll?
I was able to use type II at 1/1. i molded around a glass vial and embedded googly eyes. Took a few days to set fully,but lost tackiness after about 10 min.
gtoal Nat20203 years ago
Type I. If you look on the label in the tiny print you might see a warning somewhere about acetic acid fumes. It smells of vinegar while curing.
neodymium3 years ago
I am just curious how long it takes for the acetic acid to fully vent. I also want to know if it can possibly cause skin irritation. I want to make molds of people's hands with it but if it will cause irritation then I need to know before hand.

Thanks, Neodymium
amaze13 years ago
It came out like expected and fully comparable to commercial one (that I own).
Some notes:
- 1:1 mix gives s***u clone
- used linseed oil colors, work very well. After good mixing the result doesn't stain objects and hands, you can manipulate it safely
- acrylic colors give spongy aspect, soft and definitely not usable when you need strong grip, but you can make nice bouncing balls such way (very elastic!). I believe that water inside such colors coagulate early the silicone in little drops that eventually stick each other again but without good consistence.
- despite my previous believing, mineral spirit is usable to thin silicone, but leave everlasting unpleasant smell and possibly allergic reaction with sensible people. Anyway odorless or parfumed mineral spirit are available.
- not tried with bicarbonate yet, but I'll give it a try soon
- 2.50 euro of silicone sealant + 1.00 euro of corn starch = about 0.5 kg of oogoo = 1 ton of usefulness & fun!!
Nat2020 amaze13 years ago
Where does one find a tube of 2.50 euro of silicone sealant? Please? At the carpet and flooring store they charge 6.40 euro and I'm certain that at the local home and garden store (Praxis) they charged 8 or 9 euro last time I bought one.
amaze1 Nat20203 years ago
LIDL discount store (2.30 euro), but I purchased another silicone cartridge the week before at a local bricolage store for 2.50 euro as said
amaze1 amaze13 years ago
and this is the corn starch I used:

(sorry for this ad :) )
rrkrose3 years ago
Has anybody tried this? Was this as good as sugru? I wan't to order more sugru but if this is the same I would rather make this.
amaze1 rrkrose3 years ago
Hi, see my previous comment: I have s***u and this alternative seems fantastic.
It is slightly more shine than original one, but I consider this a feature, not a defect.
gtoal amaze13 years ago
For the benefit of folks trying this for the first time, and not understanding why eveyone else's looks shiny and yours looks like dull pencil eraser... you get the shine by coating your hands lightly with liquid soap and then polishing the surface by hand after you've moulded it to the shape you want. (Took me ages to realise this!)
gtoal3 years ago
It just occured to me that the hydrophobic Type II silicone which cures by expelling water may be cured faster by adding powdered Silica Gel. (dry silica gel with the water expelled of course). I don't have any to hand - has anyone tried this or would like to try it?

A WORD OF WARNING: do NOT pulverise coloured silica gel in any kitchen equipment such as a coffee grinder - the coloured version may be poisonous. However the FDA considers the clear version as safe to ingest in small quantities by accident.
gtoal gtoal3 years ago
I got a delivery yesterday that included a small sac of silica gel. Pulverised it with a mortar and pestle (very hard work, this stuff is hard) and tested it with a blob of white latex type II caulk. Compared against raw caulk. Made absolutely zero difference. Nice idea but no sale :-(
gtoal3 years ago
Has anyone here tried "Air dry magic clay" from Canadian dollar store "Dollarama"? - Check out this kid's video

If you've used it, how does it compare to both Sugru and Oogoo, and is there a US equivalent from some other brand? It might be something we could mix with other materials to get a more sugru-like clone. One drawback - it appears to have a problem with water.
gtoal gtoal3 years ago
FYI I did find some Crayola Air Dry Clay last night and it's terrible Dries to a hard crumbly clay. Not remotely like what the kid was working with in the video.
daliad1003 years ago
Just a thought, why not just add water? Cheaper than corn flour, you'd need a lot less of it and I reckon it would do the same job unless the cornstarch adds something else.

You could even try using acrylic paint which I'm pretty sure are water based to make it set faster and colour it.

gtoal daliad1003 years ago
the reason that we're using cornflour as a means to get the water into the caulk is because it is easy to mix in homogeneously. Silicone and water don't mix and the water is only adsorbed on the surface.
Scoop353 years ago
Will Acrylic and Latex Caulk with Silicone work?
gtoal Scoop353 years ago
Not if it is Type II silicone, which it probably is.
Can you get away with using White Silicone??? As opposed to using clear...
I think that is Type II silicone with latex added. It should not work...
ferlopag3 years ago
Every piece of information in this instructable made me hapy. Now I can make a lot of stuff I've pending. Thanks a lot
Mr Frugal3 years ago
I just had to try this!
(I have both silicone and corn starch hanging around the house.)

In my situation, I used RTF, or high heat silicone as an experiment. It is commonly used as a sealant for fireplaces, both gas and wood burning. RTF comes in two colours, red and black. (The red is actually more of orange-red than fire engine red)
This is strictly anecdotal, but I believe that it has an even higher content of acetic acid in it than 'regular' silicone.
I wanted to try this because I need to replace the plastic handle that melted off my wok.
The ratio of corn starch to silicone I started with was 1:1 as per previous instructions. I made the mistake of squeezing the silicone into the container, then adding the corn starch.The silicone was really difficult to mix as a result.

When I had completely mixed the two, I realised that it was going to be still too sticky to handle. I tried removing it from the container to shape it by hand, (wearing vinyl gloves), but it was impossible. I ended up adding 100% more corn starch and remixing. I then coated my gloves with corn starch to aid in handling. I was able to form a 3 cm ball between my hands. I set the ball on a flat surface, and it slumped by about 25%.

The ball had hardened completely in 1.5 hours, but was still off gassing acetic acid at 2.5 hours. The colour was a lighter shade of the original, closer to pencil eraser pink.

I'd be curious if anyone has tried powdered drywall compound (as it is known as in Canada). I have some kicking around, so I think I'll give it a try.
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cbdave3 years ago
great Instructable and all the tips in the comments
I found a great product for sealing silicon/adhesive tubes called Twist-n-SEAL work great, got mine at Lee Valley Tools


shazni3 years ago
Please may i know if this can be used to make ice cube trays?...i want to make shot glass trays...is it safe? also is it bake safe?
Hi all i made oogoo yesterday as an alternative to using silicone for mold making.
used 1:1 mix to start off with it was not mixing well at at all but with gloves managed to knead it by hand :) was like a dry dough mix so was wondering if you suppose to put pva glue or super glue as in the Oogoo list?

was really pliable like clay :) and could build it in layers no fuss all.
i also tested the face with 1 coat of latex prior to oogoo. and the body in about 4 layers

today face was cured yay! havn't checked body
think it came quite quite well ... and face is un harmed

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siamonsez3 years ago
I was thinking about using this as a substitute got gel coat in my hot tub since I patched some problem areas recently and wasn't able to get the marine-tex stuff I used to go on smoothly in some of the funny shaped areas.
Does anyone have any idea about what would happen to it when underwater and exposed to the chlorine/bromine that will be in the watter?
Also, any suggestions on a mix that dries a bit harder and is easy to work with? I.e. spreading and shaping it?
rall23 years ago
I seal the silicone tubes with a small piece of aluminium cooking foil, before screwing back the nozzle. It lasts for months without drying up. This also works for any other glue, like construction or contact adhesives.
muzzl3 rall23 years ago
Good tip, this is.
muzzl33 years ago
This stuff is awesome! Nice flexible white silicone objects :)
overblast3 years ago
You are AWESOME! Thanks SO VERY MUCH!!! Now I can make my inventions a reality!
lrdforster3 years ago
I was wondering if food dye wood work as a colourant. im not sure it would mix with the silicone before adding the corn starch but I am sure you can dye the corn starch before mixing but not sure the starch will dry the silicone as quick.

Any Comments? Has any one tried?
I mixed up a batch of this for my kids (and me) to play around with. I used food coloring to color it and it turned out fine. I mixed small amounts of oogoo and added a few drops of food coloring during the mixing process. There might be some advantages to using some of the other dyes or paints - darker colors being one - but everything turned out great with the food coloring. I can post pic if you'd like to see.
yes I decided to try myself last night I had the same result
lrdforster3 years ago
I am impressed with this instructable, i used acrylic paint to colour the clear silicone it worked very well this will solve a problem i have for a cheap bluetooth mod on a motorbike helmet.

Many thanks for this excelent work.
Do you have to use "100% Silicone" or can you use
"Acrylic Latex Caulk with Silicone"???
The reason I ask is the latter is 1/2 the price of 100% Silicone.
mikey77 (author)  The Workshop Guy3 years ago
I haven't found anything that works as good as the 100% silicone.

You can get it for $3 at Wall Mart or the dollar store.
boypony3 years ago
Holy Crap.
This is amazing.
I just made a 50/50 batch and it set up in like 30 minutes and part of it was like 1/2" thick.
Mold is flexible and held detail well.
This is the holy grail for us cheapskates who won't pay the big bucks for A/B silicone.
THX SO MUCH!!!!!!!!
gumbydammit3 years ago
One thing I don't see listed is whether the measurements are by weight or volume. Using corn starch, that could be a huge issue. Because it's weight is very low compared to volume and silicone is the opposite.

Sorry if this is already addressed, I didn't see that anywhere.

It looks like he's using regular measuring cups, so I'm assuming it's by volume, but that is a really good question...
By the way, limonene (the major component in orange peel oil) IS in fact hazardous too, so while it's "less noxious" it's still not "non-noxious" and you definitely should be somewhere well-ventilated when using citrus-based solvents. Natural does not equal safe.
Thanks for a great instructable. For those of us looking for a cheap casting alternative finding a way to use that caulk stuff was always a holy grail. How does this stuff react to a release agent being sprayed on the item cast. That would stop it adhering ... also i wonder if you could cast something like resin (ie: bondo) in the resulting mold? hmmm.
Not sure about Bondo (polyester resin?), but a release agent shouldn't be needed for epoxy resin casting.

However, I'm getting an odd reaction - the surface of items casted with epoxy resin in my oogoo molds remain sticky and gooey even though the interior of the part is structurally rigid. Maybe the molds aren't fully cured? My molds are only a couple days old and still smell quite a bit, but they were sound and completely handleable within an hour or so of making them.
zoot666 Marb7504 years ago
Hi Marb!
I am looking to make molds for polyresin too- any update on your resin items?
Has time and more curing made more recent moldings come out sans the stickiness? :-)
I'd LOVE to use this method, but I'm short on funds (like everyone else, I'm sure!) and I'd really appreciate knowing how yours has worked out before jumping in myself.
Thanks! :-)
Marb750 zoot6664 years ago
I have no idea how poly compares to epoxy, but a few days later, my results with epoxy were MUCH better - no stickiness at all. I soaked the molds in warm water a few hours and then left them on the heater vent over night - something helped immensely and I can't be sure if it was the water and/or heat or just time. Even now, they still have a faint odor on the inside. I'm using the same epoxy resin/coloring combination (Easy Cast Clear and food coloring). Oh, btw, food coloring worked great for the molds, too.
mikey77 (author)  Marb7504 years ago
If you leave your Oogoo mold to set up overnight most of the acid will be dissipated. Polymers like epoxy and urethane can be fussy, and any chemical imbalance can leave an incomplete sticky polymerization.

The best mold release for Oogoo that I have found so far is spray Lacquer. I use ACE instant drying Lacquer. It creates a thin, fairly inert film that peels off almost anything.

Spray it on anything to embed in an Oogoo mold. Spray it on an Oogoo mold to release almost anything cast in it, including Oogoo.
You have a stock number for this instant drying lacquer? I'm not finding it on the Ace website.
mikey77 (author)  Lokisgodhi3 years ago
No, I used it up.

Any spray lacquer will work and will usually harden in 15 to 30 minutes if dried in the sun.
Just a quick note... heating paint to dry it i.e. the sun isn't the ideal way. The best thing is moving the air a LOT. Get a fan and place it near the part that will set the paint much more effectively. You are trying to evaporate the solvent as fast as possible, not cure it.

I hope that helps a few people.
Marb750 mikey774 years ago
I forgot to mention I have yet to use a release for casting epoxy resin in oogoo molds. The last parts (that turned out almost perfect) easily popped right out without using a release agent at all. But they were fairly simple and had no undercuts or long hollow areas. I used a release agent in the initial forming of the molds only because I used some non-hardening modeling clay to fill in some spots on the original piece and wasn't sure how it would react. I have a feeling it might have been unnecessary, though.

Btw, this stuff is awesome! I've got my friends and family interested as well! Using spray lacquer for a release agent is very good to know. Thanks for sharing, mikey!
One thing to remember about most silicones, is that the surface will NOT cure if the material it is up against has any sulphur in it. I remember that lesson the hard way. I think I found that Krylon primer worked pretty well as an outer coating before casting.

I don't know if that has anything to do with your issue, but I suspect that it is.

I hope that helps.

ebend123 years ago
I have a question about the metal casting. At what temperatures would the cast degenerate? would it be possible to make castings our of bronze or brass?
For AGES i've looked for a way to build a replacement rubber pad that fits over my brake pedal. Tricky because it's a hollow complex form, and because one can't just whip out the pedal to cast something around it. This will do the job quickly (so car won't be out of commision), in situ, and allow me to use something rubbery (required by law).
So there's another "Other Possibilities"
Thank you very much!
denmans3 years ago
CLEANING and SMOOTHING -useful tip

I have found that a hand Grease remover (sold as Swarfega in the UK) get the stuff off your hands, if you don't wait too long. After rubbing it into my hands I tried smoothing my oogroo work and, yes, it works very well producing a nice shiny smooth finish. Two birds with one stone.
i have brought a pack of sugru, for experimentation and notice the sugru smells exactly like the NEW polycarbonate silicone (sold in glue gun cartridges) at WICKES diy store in the U.K., this stuff is clear, but with trace amount of colouring added,, together with the the right filler material (silica powder + (talcum (pure talcum, not the type with additives as sold in pharmacies)), this would make an exact duplicate of the sugru.
the fact that this NEW silicone sold has a new formulae, and is made to be sticker and to stick to policarbonate plastic, makes me think that the silicone base used to make sugru and this stuff are one and the same thing, please corect me if you know better (facts please, and not Bull***),
i am going to experiment with this stuff and use glass wool roof insulation(cut up finely as a filler + other cheap filler material (possibly white plaster of paris or cement powder e.t.c. ) to get it to be more plastic, just like sugru
The way silicone caulk and cyanoacrylates work is by crosslinking the polymer with water molecules. Once the compound is exposed to air or another water carrying mixture, the material begins to cross link, solidify and create a barrier that will, at some point, prevent further mositure from crossing that boundary. This is why you can put down an opened tube of caulk, come back later and use it urther after removing the plug of cured material at the nozzle. Eventually, the entire tube will cure and you can throw it away and go to the store for a new one.
tbelt3 years ago
Forgive me if I'm about to report redundant information.

I did a few minor experiments:
1. DAP Acrylic Latex with Silicone: dollop fully cured in 1 week. Poor workability (consistency/stickiness of warm chewed bubble gum). Good adhesion to saran wrap.
2. DAP Acrylic Latex with Silicone + Corn Starch: dollop fully cured in 1 week, and has more of a skin texture. Decent workability. Good adhesion to saran wrap.
3. Loctite Polyseamseal: dollop fully cured in 1 week. Slightly more plastic then the Acrylic above. Poor workability (gummy). Poor adhesion to saran wrap.
4. Loctite with DAP Acrylic/Silicone: dollop fully cured in 1 week. Poor workability. Poor adhesion to saran wrap.

I hope the wonderful people at instructables can compress all of these comments into a workable set.

Happy holidays
Danny14333 years ago
this is so awsome just made it cause cant get sugru in nz
cobourgdave3 years ago
Just saw this instructable. Terrific job! The Oogoo looks like something I have wanted for a very long time, and the fabrications costs costs are minimal. Well described, excellent images. Many thanks and again, terrific job. As an aside to some of the comments about handling sticky materials, I have always used wet hands, especially when trying to mould silicone. (spit on the finger actually.)
Meeknok3 years ago
This is a great project. I have used it to make my Custom Fit Earphones. Im very happy with them thanks to Oogoo.

Im now interested in making a variation on Oogoo that is non irritable. I have tried making Oogoo with Neutral Cure clear silicon, however it takes a long time to set and contact with warm skin stops it from curing. Also the resulting product is brittle and has very little elasticity.

Is there a diy way of making Oogoo non irritating like Sugru or Radians?
alsinel Meeknok3 years ago
Have you tried special silicone caulks for glueng/sealing fish tanks (aquariums)?
If the tiny fish can bear it, our ears might do it as well:)
Just a thought, but try adding baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to neutralize the acid as it's produced? (hopefully it doesn't bubble up like in vinegar/baking soda volcanoes!)
I did the same thing with my headphones and the Oogoo didn't bother me at all... I used a fairly high corn starch to silicone ratio, though. Maybe try that as well?
Good luck!
Nicola-jane3 years ago
It's only been a couple of days since I stumbled across your very clear and detailed instructions, yet Oogoo is already completely indispensable around here - Thankyou so, So, SO much!
Lord_Vek3 years ago
Excellent Instructable, and very useful. A real Columbus Egg!!! I didn't try it yet myself, but judging from the comments, it will have many uses for me.

I have a question. Will it stick to ABS plastic? Can I use it to make molds from action figures ? Thanks in advance.
Okay, so I made a little sculpture with this BUT: I got it all over my hands and my comment is to help people remove this great goo from their skin. I used an orange oil cleaner as well as Dawn dish soap (original only - the one they use to clean up wildlife from the oil spills). It worked well, but I had to wipe off my gooey hands several times with paper towels (not so hot) and sacrifice a couple of microfiber towels.

I was, stupidly, thinking that the oogoo would just mold like a clay without fully mixing in the cornstarch.
The first time I made Oogoo I almost had a heart attack because I got it all over my hands and kitchen counter and couldn't get it off right away. Since then I've learned that
1) If you wait the 5 or so minutes it takes for the stuff to harden, you can peel it off of just about anything with a smooth-ish surface that it can't ooze into (cloth is the biggest thing to avoid in my experience)
2) If you mix the Oogoo thoroughly enough that it starts crumbling away from itself (usually at about 60 seconds of mixing for a small batch) you can begin to handle it more like a putty than a glob of goop, especially with a bit of extra corn starch on your hands to keep it from sticking.

Hope this helps! :)
This would probably be a good way to remove cactus needles. I have a cactus garden and usually use white glue, but it doesn't get the ones that are really in there. I will have to try this next time. LOL
you can handle it directly either by cornstarching your hands. or by dipping your hand's in some water. Water will accelerate its hardening, but i find the technique valuable for sculpting/smoothing/packing molds,

hi,i live in italy...here we haven't gorilla glue and gorilla tape...you know a substitute of gorilla to make the oogoo...help me please!!
Zachintosh3 years ago
Would this be safe to put in my ear once it's dried? I want to make a new grip for my PS3 headset since I have long lost the rubber O ring that goes around the earpiece and now it keeps falling out of my ear.
jlarsen13 years ago
If you added graphite or iron shavings or whatever, would it make a good flexible solder? Seems like it would be faster and easier to use (though not as nicely permanent.
jeddar3 years ago
Got a quick question here, is your "parts" per-volume or per-weight?
Should be by volume, but eyeballing it should suffice as the mixture "can be mixed anywhere from 1 to 5 to 2 to 1 corn starch to silicone."
and in my experience even 4:1 corn starch to silicone cures well and retains its shape (I mixed up the ratios when I started making the stuff, but it worked out :)
Is "Oogoo" self-sealing like the silicone sealant is alone? I hate the 24 hour cure time on that stuff -_-
killbox3 years ago
Did a class At Quelab (our Maker/Hackerspace) with a variant of oogoo, coloring it with paint/makup/woodstain.

worked great for simple mold making. you can see some of our creations here

iklln64 years ago
with tubes like that i've always just jammed a 3" decking nail in the tube hole.

with the nail in place your caulking gun can sit indefinitely and the tube won't clog -- the nail will just take a little twist-pull action to get out.
Marcos iklln64 years ago
Ha! Been there, done that. It works over a short time (a few weeks), but much longer than that, the nail gets rusty, the caulk cures a little, and it's time to get out some Very Big Pliers, or Vise Grips to get the nail out. I've managed to pull the plastic tip right out of the caulking tube a couple of times.
krich Marcos4 years ago
I just grab a piece of paper towel, fold it in quarters, wrap it around the tip of the tube, and then squeeze out a small amount into the paper towel while holding it in place. Tape the towel in place if necessary. The extra caulk will solidify inside the paper towel and will create an air-tight seal on the tip. When you want to use the caulk again, just twist the paper towel plug, and it comes right off. No nails, no rust, no issues. You don't even need to clear out dried caulk out of the tip, most times. Try it!
I tried the paper towel wrapped around the tip. It didn't work as well as I had hoped. It turns out that the seal is not air-tight, because after nearly 2 months of standing the tip had solidified completely. That failure inspired me to try something along similar lines. I wrapped the nozzle in a condom! Works like charm. I use some rubber (no pun intended) bands around the tip to keep it air-tight and in place. Would the Pope approve?
I do the same thing, only with saran wrap, the original plain shiny one without sticky dots. Saran wrap is pretty air tight with the elastic around the tip, and I squeeze out a 3/4" ball of caulk in there. The ball of caulk will still harden over time, but it seals the tube pretty nicely. Also, Saran wrap is cheaper than condoms and not all gooey from the water based lubrication.
shaune23 iklln64 years ago
The nail seems to work pretty good for me. Course I have been going through the silicone so fast that I haven't left it enough to rust.
i have tried the NEW polycarbonate silicone with wicks solvent free no nails as a filler (50/50 mix with no colourant), once hardened it makes a siliconised product similar in final consistancy to sugru, but it takes ages to dry,
any ideas how to quicken the drying of the mixture,
i assume the two products harden by expelling water slowly, and hence the warning on the lables of the tubes that they must be used on porous surfaces (presumably to allow the water to escape,
please help if you can,
i may try a 50/50 mix of LMA silicone(acetoxy (vinegar smelling))
and solvent free no nails,
please supply any comments, or sugestions
caityjay3 years ago
Do you know if Oogoo would stick to polyurethane resin?
p.s. my one of my previous posts gives a account of the sugru patent and all the chemical make up of the sugru,
i am determined to find a exact work alike for this stuff as i feel that the cost of sugru is heafty for what it is!
masive props of course go to mikey77, with the saying "on the back of giants",
you idea of the corn flour is nothing short of inspired thinking, and dare i say genius, your generosity to share the idea is nothing short of saintly, and is on par with the thinking and generosity of the great TIM BERNERS LEE (a gift to humanity)
can i use regular duct tape instead of gorilla tape?
Rustystone4 years ago
Also, could you use colour pigment in the powdered form?
what are the temperature ratings (roughly) for this stuff?
midz4 years ago
Thank you for this. Oogoo is now my main bulk up material for silicone brushed mold. It really does cut the cost of making molds.
I do have one tip to add for handling the sticky Oogoo. Dish washing liquid.
Make a mixture of water and washing liquid, dip your (gloved) fingers and smooth that oogoo. The key is to keep your fingers moist while smoothing. This technique makes great push molds.
midz, do you use the Oogoo for the detail layer of your mold as well, or are you using something else for the first couple of coats.
For simple objects I can use Oogoo straight up. Just make sure you push down on and smooth out the surface to eliminate (most) air bubbles. For more detailed and intricate pieces I usually use a thin coat of RTV silicone for the first couple of layer and then, when those layers has cured, I lay down Oogoo. Keep in mind that you need to make a mother mold for this because Oogoo tends to curl up and could deform the mold.
codongolev midz4 years ago
I just keep some cornstarch on my hands for handling it.
midz codongolev4 years ago
That will work when oogoo is in the knead able state. I find that when freshly mixed, the soapy water is my preferred method in smoothing the surface.
Creaturiste4 years ago
Thank you!

I will try this next time I need to mold something which I usually woulod have done with the expensive silicone putty!

I make puppets, masks and collectibles, so this technique will likely come in very handy!
Ans yes, I tried it months ago, and keep using it. It's really a money saver, although the time aspect is not as shortened as one would wish, the thick oogoo is hard to apply in precision.

I would really like it if someone found a non toxic way of making this pourable, for the first detail layer. There is a way that is toxic, which is adding solvent, such as mineral spirits, but I'd rather not use this while I'm stuck inside for the winter time.
Here's the link to the other guy's article where he uses the modified Oogoo method with mineral spirits...

I wonder if regular white vinegar would be a suitable solvent?
I have been looking into this aspect as well. I have read a few places where people are adding Acrylic Paint to the mix to thin out the silicone. I haven't had a chance to try this yet. The problem with the mineral spirits is that I have heard there is some shrinkage to the final product. I'm not sure what that would mean to a detail layer on casting mold.
I've been making a lot more molds with this method now. When I have the budget, I use another silicone for the detail coat (Smooth-On's Rebound 25, without any additives). Then I finish the silicone part with the caulking+ corn starch, followed with a mother mold of plaster. When I don't have the budget, or the need for extreme detail, I just apply the caulking+ starch VERY carefully, in extremely small batches, using a flexible painting knife. Avoiding the air pockets and bubbles requires a lot of focus.

Beware that the corn starch adds stiffness to the silicone caulking, but it also decreases tear resistance. For my purposes, it is no problem at all.
I will be trying this as well. It looks to be a great alternative to using more expensive silicones in small to medium quantities.
smarcin4 years ago
Has anyone tried to use Oogoo to make soles for huaraches? I'd like to make some for walking more than running, but find the price of vibram cherry a little excessive. Do you think Oogoo would work for this application? It would need to be flexible, hold up to having laces threaded through it and hopefully not disintegrate too quickly, from running or walking on it. I think I saw another Instructible where someone had used Oogoo to coat a sock to run or walk in. Would Oogoo be slippery to walk on?
Does this stick to your skin? And is it safe to handle without gloves or no?
rom the freely available patent of sugru which alledgely i have a copy, the following can be deduced:-

component x

hydroxy-terminated polydimethysiloxane -silicone base (also needs

activator) 175 grams

silica (cabot ts610) - sand (fine powdered mineral , glass powder) 875 ml

magsil daimond, 200 mesh (tacum powder) 42 g

water 11.9 grams

component y

polydimethylsiloxane activator for silicone 4.77 grams

silicone oil unknown quantity? (trace amount used to separate layers x

and y?)

dibutyltin dilaurate 0.43grams reaction catalyst for silicone?

tetrapropyl orthosilicate silicone cross linking agent 2.4 grams

tetramethoxysilane some sort of catalyst ?(hence the low grams of

this needed) 0.26 grams

makes inorganic fillers i.e. (wollastonite) more hydrophobic and thus

increases their dispersability in mineral-filled
polymer in this case talc and silica (sand)

aminophenyltrimethoxysilane bonding agent, adhesion promoter, makes stuff more sticker to awkward surfaces

pigment trace amount

Breakdown of above info:

in one layer silicone(not water activated), sand, talc water,
in next layer trace amount of silicone oil(to keep two acive layers separate)
in final layer silicone activator,catalysts,
filling particles (talc and sand) dispersal agent, bonding agent

therefore with some experimentation, adding sand/glass powder and/talc may make the oogoo more plastic, just like the real stuff,
may-be this patent is a red hering so experimentation is needed,

my idea to make the oogoo transportable is to make a plastic tube out of plastic bag type p.v.c. using a plastic seam welder (brought from car boot sale)

to make a sausage skin tube,

fill tube with clear silicone (no air traped in tube)

tie ends of tube 1/2 inch from ends of tube. seam weld silicone inside tube at both ends.

in another tube, fill with (putty mixture),corn flour,water,sand,talc,pigment mix, with small wooden mixing stick.seam weld this tube to keep in moisture

this way it is possible to use this as a transportable batch to use anywhere in situ, just like the real stuff (sigloo :) )

of course experimentation to find cheaper fillers than talc, sand/glass powder is needed,
i am going to try plaster of paris,aluminium oxide, cerium oxide,finely ground rust (available freely on my car :) )

any other ideas please post!,
sleepy1204 years ago
Don usually comment but have to say Fan-Bloody-Tastic!!!!!!!!!!

Pardon my french

Just tried a small batch and am very impressed!!!!!
how does this stuff hold up to heat? could sheets be used to make your own fancy silicone potholders? in stores, they are kinda pricey, but tend to work well. If its made out of cured 100% silicone and corn starch, could it be considered food safe, because it would be way cheeper to make, rather than buy, silicone non-stick baking sheets...
xurglopz4 years ago
HI Mikey,
You're great that's a super post and idea. Do you have used it to make earbuds actually? Excuse-me if I missed something...I did not see any earbuds yet.
Keep on the good work :)
I don't think Mikey used it to make earbuds, but I just did. It's perfect. I had a pretty decent pair of Skullcandy earbuds that were missing the rubber tips, and I saw another Instructable in the "Related" box about making custom-molded earbuds with epoxy putty. I figured I'd spend three bucks on a tube of silicone instead of five on a pack of eartips and make custom-fit in-ear headphones that weren't rock-hard and could flex some. Just smeared a big glob of it all over the freshly-cleaned earbuds (one at a time), stuffed it in my freshly-cleaned ear and let it cure while holding it in with my finger. You have to hold your jaw closed, because opening it changes the shape of the ear canal, but it doesn't take long at all. Once cured, I trimmed the excess off the edges and used a bit more Oogoo to fill in the depression where my finger was to smooth it out, and they're finished!

The good thing is that this stuff doesn't adhere to skin or hair once it's cured (unlike the epoxy-putty earbuds), so it's not very painful to get it out of your ear and doesn't require you to put Vaseline in your ears. The bad thing is that the silicone emits pure acetic acid as it cures, and it makes your ears feel uncomfortably hot and stings a bit (I tried it with Vaseline, and it still felt like my ears were by a hair dryer). Doesn't really hurt, but it's something to be aware of.

They sound great. The bass response and overall clarity are better, outside noise insulation is awesome so I can have the volume MUCH lower, and they're a LOT more comfortable to wear than any other earbuds I've had, including themselves when they had just the standard eartips on. I play in a small band, and I never use earbuds because they start to fall out about halfway through the second song, but these definitely will make me change that because they're comfortable and they STAY where they're supposed to. I'd highly recommend doing it.
trescubes4 years ago
is there any differences between the 2? the homemade one and regular sugru? i was just curious is one more durable or "better" in anyway? or is it pretty much the same thing just WAY less expensive haha
mrdovie4 years ago
Has anyone tried mixing Oogoo in a zipper top bag with the air pushed out to get it bubble free? How about dryer lint for fiber? Got lots of that! :-)
DrPeper4 years ago
I've actually experimented with mixing Gorilla Glue and Silicone Sealant to see if I could get a result somewhere between the hardness of gorilla glue and the softness of silicone and it worked rather well. My first experiment was something around 2/3 silicone to 1/3 Gorilla Glue, it ended up on the softer side, closer to silicone, but definitely harder than just silicone. My next experiment I would like to do something more on the 50/50 side to see the results.

But my comment is that you could try adding Gorilla Glue directly into the mix to get something a little harder.

LOVE your Instructable BTW!
which type of gorilla glue were you using? i want to try to make an outdoor shoe sole, and it seems like the regular stuff won't be durable, but this might help!
It's funny you should mention a shoe sole. I seem to have worn a hole in a pair myself, and was just thinking of what I could use to repair it. I was using the standard brown bottle Gorilla Glue.  The expanding polyurethane foam type.  And if you did a 50/50 mix, I think you'd get a result very similar to the soles on most athletic/outdoor soles now-a-days.  

I'm dying to see pictures of your repair!
KittyF DrPeper4 years ago
you're suggesting 50% oogoo and 50% gorilla glue? I also need to repair a favorite pair of hiking sandals which has worn down to nearly walking on a piece of paper on pavement. LOL
DrPeper KittyF4 years ago
I've done some tests on this composite, Just 50/50 silicone and gorilla glue ends up being a bit brittle. I have not tested a 33/33/33 mixture of silicone, cornstarch, and gorilla glue, but I'll put it on my list of things to try.

I just mixed up my first official large batch of oogoo last week and it came out better than my test batches. But the working time was quite quick.

Personally for hiking sandals I would recommend cutting tire treads from a car tire and using contact cement to stick them on. If you really want to try an oogoo approach I would recommend substituting some form of fiber in for part of the cornstarch (or talc). I think that would provide better results.
KittyF DrPeper4 years ago
ooo, ok. I didn't think of that. how would a person with weaker hands do that cutting? I have available to me, a reciprocating saw, a hack saw, and a dremel. would any of these work?
DrPeper KittyF4 years ago
I would go with the dremel, it's going to smoke and don't forget about the steel belting in the middle, but it's worked for me in the past. I've used tin snips to cut pieces of tires off in the past, but it does take strong hands.
so the gorilla glue doesn't expand at all?
Actually, I didn't notice any significant expansion in the mixture during curing.
good idea for gorilla glue hey add carbon fiber at 3 dollars a roll it is cheap and besides who dosent want space shuttle shoes
Where do you find carbon fiber for $3/roll? I just searched SneezeBay and could find anything anywhere near that price.
it went up to 8 here it is http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=carbon+fiber+rolls&hl=en&prmd=ivns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=17091005461642487285&sa=X&ei=wOjaTZawO
Thanks, however, that's actually a vinyl sticker with a "Carbon fiber pattern" printed on it. I was able to find carbon fiber fabric in tape like strips for just over $12 on SneezeBay. But I like your thinking and your suggestion!
sorry my computer lost the organiol and i thought it was the same hey when done post a instructable
DrPeper DrPeper4 years ago
You know I just thought of something else. You could incorporate a fiber into the mixture to increase rigidity. IE nylon threads or shredded paper.
If your using fiber you would be doing something similar to fiber-clay. in which most post i've seen suggest a ratio close to 1 to 9 fiber to ceramic-clay.

I was curious if anyone has tried to use Oogoo to make molds for ceramic clays? I assume it is waterproof so two-part molds are out...
I haven't yet tried a fiber yet, but I still think it's a good idea. I have actually been experimenting with silicone composites a bit quite recently.

I have tried mixing gorilla glue in. It does not expand, and does increase rigidity, but it is quite a bit more brittle and less flexible than just silicone.

I've tried cornstarch or the "oogoo" and I didn't really notice any increase in rigidity and durability. Plus it does change the color to a undesirable yellow(ish), so I would suggest mixing in a dry pigment if you are going to use it for any finished product. My big problem with this technique is that it is an organic compound and would be subject to breakdown. Also I have not been able to figure out which silicones have the "vinegar" solvent smell. Soooo.

Next I tried mixing in talc. Similar to the cornstarch technique but it's non-organic. It achieved the same results but without the yellowing effect. I got a more white(ish) silver out of the end product.

I have NOT as yet used the Oogoo technique for ceramic clays, although it is on my list of things to try.

I guess I should write an instructable up on my experiments?
Does anyone know if either Oogoo or Sugru are safe for making earplugs?
I'm wanting to make custom molded ear protection for shooting and concerts but not too sure if these would cause any damage or not.
sugru shows someone did.
Try this stuff: http://www.radians.com/main/p-282-radians-custom-molded-earplugs.aspx

I just made some custom molded ear buds with it. You can get from Amazon
germeten4 years ago
You said you tried many different ingredients before coming up with your simple, cheap, Oogoo formula. Did you try diatomaceous earth? It's 89% silica which is chemically compatible with silicone; I've found it cheap from garden-supply houses. Gorilla glue on the other hand, is expensive. Is another polyurethane substitute possible, say polyurethane varnishes & coatings? which are cheap.
mikey77 (author)  germeten4 years ago
Yes, diatomaceous earth is inexpensive and mixes well with Oogoo. It works well in a 3 d. earth to 1corn starch to 1 silicone caulk mix to produce a fairly hard and stiff Oogoo that still has a high tear strength.

If you add milled fiberglass, you can get an even stiffer result that is like a soft plastic.
bpfh4 years ago
Do you have any idea on how much Oogoo shrinks when drying?

foobear4 years ago
Can acrylic paint be used instead of oil paint?
lando27 foobear4 years ago
No, has to be oil. You can use small amounts of acrylic paint to color polyester resin tho.
I enjoyed this instructable.
I also use silicon for casting, only I have never tried corn starch....it's a great idea, as it will also increase the volume of the silicone... BUT, dont discount water based acrylic paints too quickly....
As you stated, the silicone "kicks" from exposure to moisture, well...acrylic paint IS water based.....
Often, I will make a prototype from plaster of paris, and will brush on some Glycerin oil ( available in the first aid isle @ walmart for $1.50 ) to act as a release agent. The plaster will absorb some of the glycerine and and fill any small pores in the plaster keeping things smooth.
then, I will add NAPTHA ( or common Zippo -type lighter fluid ) to some silicone to thin it down, and add a drop or two of acrylic paint to speed up the setting time.
the benifit of the paint is that you KNOW the moister in the paint has been evenly distibuted because the silicone will be colored consistantly through out. ( if you don't want colored silicone just use a few drops of water )
any way... after mixing this way, I will apply the now runny ( and pourable ) silicone to my plaster prototype with a paint brush taking care to get into all of the little nooks and crannies.
then I leave it alone for a few minutes and paint an additional layer or two to build up a thikness. ( this is for extreamly fine detail... if detail isnt' that important, just dump the silicone over yur prototype. )
finally I will mix silicone and acrylic paint and REALLY glob it on top of the thin coats of silicone I painted on before.
this will set up in 30 min to an hour, and is REALLY durable.
I use my molds to cast melted noncrystalline wax for jewelry casting.
I can see where your Oogoo would be fantastic for making an impressionable bed to squish a plaster prototype into and then press in some locks around the object to prepare a two part mold ?
This is interesting. Thank you. Do you go through a lot of paintbrushes this way, or do you somehow clean them?
I buy bags of flux brushes (used for plumbing) to use in mold making. Cheap and expendable.
you can clean them with naptha. ( or lighter fluid...the kind you put in a zippo type lighter )

I had great result with ink however. I used the fluid from a bingo dauber, and I will be tried colored ink designed for india ink pens.

I suspect fabric dyes would work excellent as well.
Despite what lando27 said, I just successfully mixed some up using a little bit of green water based acrylic paint that I had laying around. Seems to be curing just fine (its been about an hour). The paint is Craft Smart brand and the silicone is Walmart's cheapest. It seemed to mix in just fine, but It may have made it harder to stir as it thickened pretty quick.
roliop4 years ago
I wonder whether adding bicarbonate of soda would create foamy Oogoo by reacting with the vinegar.

It, or some other alkali, might also help to neutralise any remaining acidity which might damage embedded circuits over time.

codongolev4 years ago
I just discovered that Oogoo makes an extremely excellent eraser. I shall now be molding my own supercool custom erasers.
SLOB74 years ago
oh, the black high temp silicone was more expensive.....about $7 or $8. not bad but almost double the price of the regular calking. the black high temp was near the section with wood stove and heater accessories.
SLOB74 years ago
Thanks for the cool instructable and more great idea's from the comments. just a quick addition. my local Ace Hardware store carries silicone calking in the regular sized tubes for $4.79 available in white, clear, and grey. they also had high temp silicone calk in black. (but after adding the corn starch it turned a dark grey) they all set up nicely in about an hour or so. I mixed them by eye about 4-1 ratio (calk to starch) I have to go check on how the black high temp/gorilla glue mix set up, but I am confident it will be great as well.

so far I just molded toe spacers (for problematic corn that kills my toe) and it worked great. just about a tea spoon full into the finger of a latex glove.....tie it off and set in between my toes where the problem is squish around until its comfy and wait while watching tv.......set up nicely. just remove he glove and trim any excess areas that squished out. next project is soles for some socks!
creekology4 years ago
I have been using this stuff for everything!

I found that a good way to mix it without having arguments between the starch and caulk is to have a non stick surface-I use an old laminated calendar-- and measure out your cornstarch onto it.
Pile thecornstarch into a little mountain then make a crater in the middle. Then put the desired amount of caulk in the crater , Powder your gloves with cornstarch and pull some from the edges of the crater over the top of the caulk. Use a light touch and proceed to fold and kneed the mixture as you
would bread dough. Keep pulling the cornstarch into it from the edges . If it begins to stick to your gloves, dip them in cornstarch again.
Pretty soon you will have a nice putty that you can pick up without it sticking to you. Then its ready to mold or shape.
codongolev4 years ago
in case anyone wants to know, oogoo does, in fact, work with molding molten solder. (however, it does cool down the solder quickly, making it a bit difficult to get in all the crevices - maybe if the mold could be preheated?)
Ray Power4 years ago
Hi Mikey 77
Thanks for this great ible. I'm trying out casting a very small piece following your idea....a 3-pronged peg so to speak, its only 3mm (1/8") diameter on each prong. But it seems really squishy when I take it out of the mould. I was hoping for something with a bit of stretch but only a little bit of stretch. Will it harded over the next few days? or is there anything I can do to get it, dunno?...more like rubber? Thanks again
mikey77 (author)  Ray Power4 years ago
Your can increase the hardness and reduce the flexibility of Oogoo with the addition of a thickener.

Diatomaceous Earth, iron oxide, perlite, mica, milled fiberglass, or even fine sand can be used to increase the hardness.

However, the more thickener you add, the more you reduce the tear strength. A 1 thickener to 1 corn starch to 1 silicone caulk is a good mix to start with.

A 4 diatomaceous earth to 1 corn starch to 1 silicone is the best hardened Oogoo mix that I have found that does not significantly reduce the tear strength. Adding milled fiberglass will harden it even more.
landline4 years ago
Simply wonderful! Worked the first time! I made a cast of a Monopoly game piece and the replica (cast in plaster) had very excellent detail! Cheap, too. I'm curious to try it with cold-process lye soap casting. It seems that if will tolerate soft metal casting, it should tolerate the lower-temp soap, but I wonder how silicone, corn starch and lye will react with each other.
MistyEE4 years ago
One question I had ... is there a reason the gloves can not be latex? (Chemistry was not my strong subject) Just wondering if I could use the cheaper gloves out there at the dollar store and what not...
MistyEE4 years ago
WOW!! This is soooo great! Thank you so much for sharing! Also want to say I am so thankful for the collaborative spirit here....so many great ideas in the comments as well. Can't wait to try this out!
gtoal4 years ago
Mikey - I think I've found a way to make Oogoo without corn starch - have a look at this work in progress and let me know what you think. I've marked it as open for collaboration if you want to add anything to it (it's not yet published, but it is visible already. Actually the system won't let me publish it because it reckons there are not enough images present.).
mikey77 (author)  gtoal4 years ago
I too have experimented with mixing silicone caulk and latex caulk in various proportions. I have also mixed the silicone with elmers glue, epoxy, super glue, polyurethane, and several other adhesives.

While most of them work to some degree, none of them seem to improve on the working or cured characteristics of Oogoo. One of the unique advantages of Oogoo is that there is a period of time, while curing, when it can be hand worked fairly easily like Sugru. Most additives, especially those with acrylic, latex, or water, seem to eliminate this workability. Most additives also reduce the tear strength or flexibility of the cured silicone rubber.

I am now experimenting with various solvents and more exotic additives like micro-balloons. I'm also experimenting with ways to make Oogoo into a foam.
If you come up with a combination that has uniquely different characteristics, please let us know.
patt394 years ago
on a note: DO NOT use latex as a substitute material for silicone, I learned this the hard way. (takes like a whole day to clean up)
Denmur4 years ago
Can I use it in a plaster mold?
simonett4 years ago
Again, a wonderful 'able.
mechaninja4 years ago
Also, is it bouncy? I want to use it to make protective bumpers for my MP3 player.
Just made some of this (sans color) and it's perfect for that kind of thing. It's nice and rubbery and remains flexible. I used it to make a grommet for a hookah water pipe and it's functioning beautifully.
kay. When I made it, it was extremely hard to work with though.
privtec4 years ago
Inspired by this great instructable I did some experimenting to find a solution to the number 2 advantage of Sugru (see step 14):

2- Cures to a harder rubber.

It came out that cotton flock filler does the trick. Just mix about 5 to 6 parts of silicone caulk with 1 part of cotton flock filler (by weight not by volume! Because I find it hard to measure volumes of a extremely sticky stuff ;-). No starch.

It's somewhat harder to mix, cures as fast as the silicone/starch mixture and results in a much harder rubber. Another side effect is that though it's still opaque it's more translucent.
Anyone tried adding silicone oil to make the oogoo more pourable? Its quite cheap although it will lower the shore hardness index of the cured oogoo.
I have used corn starch to quick harden a silicone called Dow Corning 734, a thin pourable silicone. Worked like a charm. The problem with thinner silicones is that they harden on the surface quickly and then take a LONG time to cure through. This takes care of that problem. Be careful to mix just enough corn starch to make it begin to thicken, too much and it will thicken to a paste.

Wouldn't the shore index go up, i.e. get harder? That is what I have experienced.
And iam also thinking that this would workgreat as a mothermold material for 2part RTV silicones aswell. thereby saving alot of money in the long run. :)

I need to go buy some starch(in my case made from potatoes instead of corn) and some silicone so i can get experimenting.
I also tried this yesterday! Wacker makes a quick hardening silicone, 150 C. Three minutes open time and it is quite 'runny.' I mixed in some corn starch and made it thicken, thixotropic is the word. spread it on as a paste and sealed my part for casting.
lennyb4 years ago
good instructable... no wait great instructable yup that fits.
i wonder how well this would work to make custom insoles for shoes.
im thinking mix it up let it set a little bit in a shallow tray grease up your feet and step on it to make a moulded insert for your shoes just cut it to fit once it finished setting up.

or would it smell even funnier after a while ? i may try this.
lennyb, I've just made a prototype insole using oogoo, will send you a link when I'm done with the instructable if it might be of use!
please do im going to try it myself soon.
ksierk lennyb4 years ago
Works great Lenny. Every pair of shoes I have has a custom molded set if inserts. Works a LOT better than the $300 ones I no longer use.
You shouldn't stand on the oogoo to make insoles. I have custom orthotics. My podiatrist molded the plaster to my feet while I was sitting with my feet up. My orthotics have saved me a lot of pain.
If you can find a good body worker (massage therapist, et al) you won't need any orthotics. Check out YouTube videos for your particular condition. It'll take some sifting, but you may find one that will help you cure yourself.
That's not true Marcos, I need foot orthotics because the muscles in my instep are stretched due to a collagen deficiency, however strong/massaged they are, they'll still be the wrong shape!
Maybe you could wrap your orthotics in something like plastic, and then use oogoo to make a mold of them.


Then you could use epoxy, cast in the mold, to create a duplicate, one for each of your commonly worn shoes.
That's a great idea! It's a real pain to move my orthotics from shoe to shoe and it wears them out faster.
yes that makes sense once its stiff enough to not run out of the tray i guess id just press it firmly against my feet to make the impression.
do it from a chair even then i could control the pressure as needed.
thanks for the tip.
mikey77 (author)  lennyb4 years ago
Might be worth a try. No need to grease up your foot. Just put a piece of thin polyethylene plastic over the Oogoo and use a pipe to flatten to the right thickness. When it has set up in a few minutes and is clay like, you can step on it to make the impression. After a few minutes you can peel off the plastic.

I would wait for a day or two until the Vineger smell is gone before trying it out.

Most silicone caulks have additives to prevent mildew, so it might actually work quite well for this application.