Introduction: How to Make Your Own Sugru Substitute

Picture of How to Make Your Own Sugru Substitute

I call it Oogoo, an inexpensive silicone clay that is easily made. It can be used as an excellent substitute for Sugru. It can be hand molded or cast in forms. Or, it can be used as a casting silicone. It can be colored any color from white to black. It can also be made translucent to allow diffused light to shine through. It can even be painted on in thin layers. It has very good adhesive qualities and will stick to itself, glass, fabric, paper, wood, and some plastics and metals.

This instructable will show :

1- How to mix and color Oogoo

2- How to cast it or hand form it into different shapes.

3- How to make silicone paint

4- Several interesting uses for Gorilla tape and Gorilla Glue, see steps 3, 7, 12 and 15.

5- How to make a few projects using Sugru and a comparison of Oogoo and Sugru


Since I am mainly interested in using Oogoo to embed electronic circuits in flexible forms, this instructable will also show you how to:

1- Make a soft circuit LED pumpkin head robot display that can be embedded on to clothing.

2- Make cleanly etched conductive fabric circuits

3- Make conductive glue using Gorilla glue.

4- Embed circuits in Oogoo or Sugru


The intro pic shows a few of the silicone shapes that I made using Oogoo and a funky, smirky, flexible pumpkin head robot LED display.


Step 1: How It Works

Picture of How It Works

pic2 shows a 2"x2"x2" solid silicone cube that cured enough in two hours to be removed from its plastic box form.

For years I have been looking for an inexpensive way to create a flexible skin covering for robots and electronic circuits. I have tried several kinds of casting urethane rubber and silicone rubber. They all have their difficulties and either set up to fast or too slow. They are too thin or they are too thick. They are also very expensive in small quantities. Added to that is the problem that they have a very limited shelf life and usually must be used within six months. Sugru is great, but it is not affordable for making larger structures.

I and many others have tried using the inexpensive silicone caulk that is readily available from hardware stores. It is used to seal roofing and glass windows. It works fine but has the problem that it can only be used by putting it on thinly and waiting a long time for it to cure. It is also hard to work. It must be smoothed immediately while it is very sticky. Otherwise, the surface cures quickly and then forms a gummy film while the inside remains soft and wet. It has a smoothing time of seconds rather than minutes. If you put it on too thick the inside will remain soft and can take several days to finally cure. People have tried all kinds of additives in an attempt to make it cure in a more useful manner. I have found those additives to be unusable for my purposes.

So I wanted to add a catalyst that would help the silicone to cure from the inside out rather than just from the outside in.

As I understand it, 100% silicone caulk works by the moisture in the air initiating the polymerization of the silicone. So it cures from the outside in and as it does, it allows the water vapor to slowly seep inside and eventually cure the unexposed silicone. While it cures, it gives off Acetic acid (vinegar is diluted acetic acid) which is the strong smell you will notice if you use it.

I experimented with quite a few additives to try and introduce some moisture into the uncured silicone. Several of them worked to some degree, but the hands down favorite was also the least expensive.

It turns out that corn starch is highly absorbent and when sitting around in an open box it will absorb moisture from the air. It is an extremely fine powder that diffuses evenly in mixtures. By adding the right amount of corn starch, the sticky silicone is somewhat stiffened and very quickly starts to set up from the inside out. While it still sets up faster on the surface than in the middle, the whole thing will set up in five minutes to 2 hours no matter what the thickness. The actual curing time depends on the temperature, the humidity, the amount of corn starch added, and the speed at which it was mixed.

So that's it. Oogoo is corn starch and clear silicone caulk mixed together and then molded by hand or by forms to create just about anything you can imagine that needs to be adhesive initially and solid yet flexible when cured.


Step 2: Materials

Picture of Materials

Materials to Make Oogoo:

100% clear silicone caulk-the kind that gives off the vinegar smell while it cures. Can be found in any hardware store or Walmart. It cost from $3 to $5 for a 10 oz. tube. The newer silicone caulks that have a different smell such as GE silicone II will not work for this.

Caulking gun for silicone tubes.

Mixing cups

Popsicle sticks

Gorilla instant glue

Gorilla tape

100% Corn Starch

Linseed based oil paints to color oogoo


Materials to embed an etched circuit:

Clear Contact vinyl shelf liner from Walmart or hardware store.

Ferric Chloride etchant

Gorilla white glue

Surface mount LEDs

Magnet wire or conductive thread

Veil shield conductive cloth from http://www.lessemf.com/


Step 3: Mixing Oogoo

Picture of Mixing Oogoo

Mix By Volume
As stated before, Oogoo is simply a mixture of clear silicone caulk and corn starch. It can be mixed anywhere from 5 to 1 to 1 to 2 silicone to corn starch by volume. Up to a point, the more corn starch you add the faster it will set up. I like to mix it in small disposable cups using a Popsicle stick that is wrapped with Gorilla Tape to create a spatula. See pic4. Once it cures the Oogoo peels easily off the tape wrapped stick and the mixing/spreading stick can be reused.

Mix In Small Amounts
A good starting mixture to try out is 1 corn starch to 1 silicone by volume. It is easiest to mix it in small quantities so as to have plenty of time to work it. To see how it works, you could start with 1 tablespoon silicone caulk to 1 tablespoon of corn starch. You can reduce the amount to as little as 1/4 tablespoon corn starch to 1 tablespoon silicone if you want more time to cast it or sculpt it. I rarely mix up more than 3 tablespoons of silicone at a time.

The dry starch and sticky silicone do not want to easily mix. But if you are persistent and keep quickly stirring and mashing the mix, they will eventually merge into a thick paste. The resulting Oogoo is very sticky and will stick to anything that you spread it on. Most things it will stay well glued to. On a few things like some plastics and metals, it will easily peel off after it has cured.

The resulting Oogoo is a nice reflective white but I recommend coloring it so that you can easily see if you have an even mix. See the coloring step.

WARNING: While mixing, Oogoo will give off the strong smell of Acetic acid which can be irritating to the eyes and respiratory system. I strongly recommend that the mixing and forming be done outside or in a VERY WELL VENTILATED room. You should also wear nitrile gloves while mixing as the uncured silicone contains other solvents that might be absorbed by the skin.

One recurrent problem with silicone caulk is that once opened, it will tend to set up in the tube tip. To get a good seal I have had good luck using Gorilla tape wrapped over the tip. See pic4b. If you leave a quarter inch gap between the wrapped tape and the tip you can squeeze out just enough silicone to seal the tip well from air and moisture.


Step 4: Hand Molding

Picture of Hand Molding

Pic5 shows the fresh mix mounded up to create a glass stopper. Pic6 shows the final hand molded form.

Oogoo can be hand molded onto or around just about anything. However, you will have to move fast as the fast mix will fairly quickly go from sticky to putty to a clay like material in just a few minutes.

Mix up some Oogoo as quickly as you can and then use the mixing stick as a spatula to spread the Oogoo on whatever you want it to stick to. While it is sticky mound it up to a shape that is roughly what you want the final shape to be. Let it set up until it is barely sticky and then start patting it into the form you want. At some point it will be like clay and can be fine tuned to its final shape.

Fast Mix
A mix of 1 corn starch to 1 silicone caulk will be like a putty in 1 to 2 minutes and can then be hand smoothed. In 3 or 4 minutes it will be like clay and can still be molded but is hard to smooth. So, you only have about 5 to ten minutes of working time with this mix.

Slower Mix
A mix of 1 to 3 or 4 will give you up to thirty minutes working time. A 1 to 5 mix can give you an hour or more working time. Depending on how fast it is mixed, the thickness of the structure, the temperature and the humidity, the slower mixes will turn solid and rubbery in from 5 minutes to an hour.

If while mounding your shape, you run out of Oogoo, don't worry as you can just mix up another batch and add to it while it is curing. A fresh mix will stick really well to Oogoo that is curing or even Oogoo that has cured for several days.


Step 5: Coloring Oogoo

Picture of Coloring Oogoo

I was pleasantly surprised to discover that all it takes to create vibrant colors in Oogoo is very small amounts of linseed based oil paints. Apparently the pigments in oil paints are very fine and dense so a little goes a long way.

About the equivalent of 5 or 6 drops of oil paint per teaspoon of silicone will result in solid colors. I mix the color well with the silicone before adding the corn starch.

While you can leave it white, it is a good idea to add some color to make it easy to see if you have a well mixed batch. Adding color does not appear to significantly effect the hardness or flexibility of the final result.


Step 6: Sanding and Carving Oogoo

Picture of Sanding and Carving Oogoo

While you can cut Oogoo with a knife, its rubbery flexibility makes it difficult to get precise cuts. It is more easily carved or sanded with power tools.

I used a stationary disk sander with 150 grit sandpaper to sand smooth the hand formed stopper in pic8. It sands cleanly but It is slow to sand, so before it cures, you should try to hand form the structure as close as possible to the final desired size. I made the mistake of not putting a mold release such as Vaseline on the glass vial and it was very difficult to remove the stopper after it cured.

Oogoo can also be carved with a Dremel tool and a high speed carbide wheel. Wait at least twenty four hours before carving smaller objects and up to several days for thicker ones. Do not carve until the strong smell of acetic acid is mostly gone when you put it up to your nose. Otherwise you will be shooting very small particles containing irritating acid into the air. Not Healthy. Do this outside with a filter mask or with a good vacuum system.

Step 7: Casting Oogoo

Picture of Casting Oogoo

Casting In Plastic Containers
Just after mixing, Oogoo is very adhesive and will stick to almost anything. It will not remain stuck to some plastics such as PVC, polyethylene and polycarbonate. So any kind of container made out of these plastics can be used as a form or mold. The blister packs used to package many products contains clean smooth forms that can be used as casting forms. Clear polycarbonate cups and dishes can also be used.

Pic9 shows a funnel shape that was made using the inside of a polycarbonate martini glass. The Oogoo ended up about 3/16" thick and is quite flexible. It could be used as a funnel.

Simply smooth on the mix to fill up the form in layers while working out the bubbles. It does not have to be done in one mix. A fresh mix will stick very well to oogoo that is setting up and also to older Oogoo that has fully cured. So layers can be added at any time.

Casting in Gorilla Tape
Oogoo does not stick to Gorilla Tape so the inside or outside of any container or surface covered with the tape can be used as a form. After it cures the Oogoo will peal easily off.


Step 8: Making Tubes, Sheets and Laminations

Picture of Making Tubes, Sheets and Laminations

Forming Sheets
It is easy to make sheets of Oogoo. Simply spread out a mix between two layers of clear polyethylene and then roll it with a round object as if you were working dough. See pic10. I like to use polyethylene plastic from gallon freezer bags. If you put down spacers of thin wood or metal you can keep the thickness uniform.

Once flattened, If you just want a single sheet, then wait 4 or 5 minutes and then peel off the top layer of plastic. This will leave a very smooth surface top and bottom.

If you want to work it more, then peel off the top plastic after 2 or 3 minutes while it is still a bit sticky and then form around whatever you want it permanently attached to.

Making Layers
To make layers, make one layer and let it set up until it is fairly stiff and then roll out another layer nearby. When it is set up enough pull of one layer of plastic you can then stick it on top of the first layer. You could embed whatever you want between the two layers such as a tool blade or a printed circuit board. Pic11 shows a three layer lamination.

Making Tubes
Tubes are a bit more tricky and require fast working. Use a plastic tube or wrap Gorilla tape around a dowel to create a form that the Oogoo won't stick to. Make a sheet of Oogoo that is wider than the diameter of the form. As soon as you can, peel the top layer of plastic and wrap the sheet around the form. Make sure there is overlap where the edges meet and quickly smooth out the seam.


Step 9: Make It Glow

Picture of Make It Glow

Oogoo Lighting
Oogoo has many possibilities for lighting fixtures or light ribbons. Pic12 shows a 4" translucent cube that was made by coating an acrylic cube that I had with a thin layer (about 3/16") of translucent Oogoo. It was then lit up using a 1 watt white LED.

The Oogoo can be made translucent by using a 1 corn starch to 3 or 4 clear silicone caulk mix.


Step 10: Making Silicone Paint

Picture of Making Silicone Paint

Pic13 shows the final robot pumpkin head with LEDs all on. I used it to experiment with different mixes of silicone paint.

This is not a new idea, but silicone paint is easily made. Simply add naphtha or mineral spirits (paint thinner) and oil paint to the silicone caulk until you get the consistency of paint you want. The only problem with the paint is that it dries much weaker than silicone caulk alone or Oogoo. It has lower adhesion and lower tear strength. Even so, it is useful for some things.

I like a 1 corn starch to 3 mineral spirits (or Naphtha) to 3 silicone caulk for a translucent white gel-like paint. For a paint that is thinner and closer to an oil paint thickness you can use a 1 cornstarch to 4 mineral spirits to 2 silicone caulk. The more solvent you add, the weaker the final strength and adhesion will be.

You can also use acetone, xylene, or toluene but they all have nasty fumes and take several days to dissipate in thicker applications. The Naphtha has the advantage that it evaporates fast and loses most of its smell overnight.

Solvents that give off less noxious fumes and can be used to thin Oogoo and Oogoo II are turpentine and Citrus Solvent. Their only problem is that they can take several days to evaporate in a thicker cast of silicone rubber. For paint thicknesses they work fine but set up pretty slow.

Step 11: Etching Conductive Cloth for Soft Circuits

Picture of Etching Conductive Cloth for Soft Circuits

Pic14 shows a ribbon cable made of etched conductive cloth (Veilsheild). LEDs could be glued on it to make a light ribbon. Clean and sharp conductive traces like this are possible using the method described  below.

For the robot pumpkin head circuit I wanted to etch a very simple pattern as I was going to be trying several new techniques to glue and laminate the circuit.

The problem has always been to find an inexpensive, simple way to get a resist that is removable but will etch sharp high resolution conductive traces. I experimented with all kinds of tapes but they were either not waterproof enough or they had so much adhesion they peeled off the conductive coating on the fabric.

I finally tried clear vinyl shelf liner. It is just sticky enough to keep out the ferric chloride etchant, but not so sticky that it wont come off cleanly. the conductive cloth is placed on a piece of shelf liner with its sticky side up. this seals the back side. Another piece of liner is cut with a sharp x-acto knife to remove vinyl wherever the circuit needs to be etched. The conductive cloth is then sandwiched between the two layers of shelf liner. See pic15.

The cut traces are then burnished with a Popsicle stick to make sure the edges are adhered well to the cloth. It is then dipped into ferric chloride etchant for five minutes at room temperature. As soon as it looks well etched, it is removed and immediately submerged in a bucket of water and swished around. Remove it from the water and then rinse it some more to be sure all the etchant in the fibers is removed. the shelf liner can then be slowly peeled off and the cloth left to dry. Pic16 is the final cloth circuit board.

I have been experimenting with etching conductive cloth for several years. For some of the results see here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Conductive-Fabric-Make-Flexible-Circuits-Using-An/


Step 12: Glue the Circuit and Laminate It

Picture of Glue the Circuit and Laminate It

Making Conductive Glue Using Gorilla Wood Glue
To make a flexible pumpkin head Led circuit, a way to glue the components to the cloth circuit board is needed. Gorilla Wood Glue can be easily made conductive and still have good adhesive qualities.

Mix by volume: 3 powdered graphite to 2 Gorilla white glue. The powder is reluctant to mix but keep at it till you have a sticky paste. You can then blob it onto the wires you are gluing to the conductive fabric traces. While you can add a few drops of water to make it easier to work, this will increase somewhat the final resistance of the conductive joint. Let it dry overnight.

This conductive glue has a very low resistance and is good for connecting two conductors that are close to each other. You can obtain powdered graphite from: http://www.elementalscientific.net/

Pic17 shows how the glue joints looked after the led wires were glued to the conductive circuit board. Because the PLCC2 surface mount LEDs do not have enough surface area to directly glue them with conductive glue, I first soldered thin tinned lead wires to them. This gave more surface area to the glued conductive joint. I zigzagged the leads thinking that might increase the flexibility of the final result.

Gorilla Tape Helping Hands Jig
See pic18b for a helping hands jig I used to hold the surface mount LEDs and thin wire while soldering. It is made of Gorilla Tape taped sticky side up on a piece of cardboard. I had previously used blue tac for this, but this works just as well.

Laminating the Pumpkin Head
Pic18 shows the pumpkin head after laminating with orange Oogoo. The Oogoo was cut off to expose the LEDs. Translucent and colored Silicone paint was then used to finish the pumpkin head.

I have been experimenting with conductive glues for a few years. For other ways to make and use conductive glues see here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Conductive-Glue-and-Glue-a-Circuit/


Step 13: The Robot Pumpkin Head Circuit

Picture of The Robot Pumpkin Head Circuit

The LEDs are flashed in sequences using a 08m Picaxe microcontroller. See pic19. The resistance of the conductive glue joints is high enough that no dropping resistors are necessary. In order to keep the leads to a minimum, Charliplexing is used to control the six LEDs individually. This is a simple way to use 3 wires to control 6 LEDs.

I will try an post a video of the flashing pumpkin head LEDs and code when I get more time.

For details on Charliplexing see: https://www.instructables.com/id/Charlieplexing-LEDs--The-theory/

I did not have time to make an embedded control circuit, so it was just breadboarded. See pic20.

Step 14: Comparison of Oogoo and Sugru

Picture of Comparison of Oogoo and Sugru

Pic21 shows a eyeglass holder made with sugru on one side and Oogoo on the other to hold on the neoprene neck strap.

Pic22 shows a small coin cell flashlight I made on a circuit board and then covered with Sugru.

Pic 23 shows a Picaxe circuit I laminated on the bottom side with Sugru to protect the thin wires on the back and keep it from shorting.

I experimented around with several packets of Sugru to see what it would stick to and to see what it took to mold it to clean shapes.


Advantages of Oogoo:

1- Made from inexpensive and easily obtained materials.

2- Easy to work and mold into forms.

3- Will set up quickly at any thickness.

4- Can be mixed in any color.

5- translucent structures possible for lighting aplications.

6- slightly more flexible than Sugru.


Advantages of Sugru:

1- Much milder fumes, can be easily used indoors.

2- Cures to a harder rubber.

3- Gives more working time.

4- Already mixed.

5- Somewhat easier to smooth.

6- Carves easier than Oogoo.



Step 15: Other Possibilities

Picture of Other Possibilities

Pic24 shows the LED robot pumpkin head mounted on a T-shirt. It can be glued with silicone caulk onto most fabrics and should be able to handle hand washing.

Pic26 shows the flexibility of the final circuit.

Make Conductive Rubber And Robot Skin
See here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Conductive-Rubber-Make-Touch-Sensitive-Robot-Skin/

Make Conductive Rubber And A Transparent Capacitive Stylus For Ipod, Iphone, And Ipad
See here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Conductive-Rubber-Transparent-stylus-iPodiP/

Making Ooglo: Luminescent Silicone Paint
See here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Making-Ooglo-Luminescent-Silicone-Paint/

Halloween Costumes
All manner of masks and appendages can be made using Oogoo. It sticks well to cardboard and paper and almost anything. You can use it to glue almost any part of the costume together and it sets up faster than most glues. Be sure not to create anything where you will have to breathe near freshly formed Oogoo. Let it sit a day or two and use it only after the vinegar smell is gone.

Make Your Own Lego Parts or Interlocking Blocks
All kinds of interlocking building blocks or circuit modules could be built.

Making Prototypes
Electronic cases of different kinds can be quickly hand made with Oogoo. It might even work as a forming material for a 3d printer or rapid prototype machine.

Stained Glass
Colored Oogoo sticks very well to glass and can be used for various stained glass effects.

Woodworking
It should be possible to make hinges using thin flat sheets of Oogoo glued to wood boxes or cabinets. It may also be possible to use it to make flexible joints for furniture.

Casting Metal
Metals that melt at low temperatures can be cast in Oogoo. See pic25 for a ring I cast out of bismuth.

Gluing to Plastics
Near the end of this, I discovered that Oogoo can be glued to many plastics using Gorilla Super Glue. If after it cures it peals off the plastic, try re-gluing it using a thin layer of super glue.

Comments

DavidH998 (author)2017-12-07

How did you melt the metal and if u used a home made cauldron can u make a video on how

absolutekold (author)2017-07-05

I've been interested in Oogoo for a while but I've always had concerns using cornstarch or flour or any other organic compound as the method to shove water into the silicone for something that might be a near permanent addition to a project. I'm wondering if anyone has tried silica beads used in desiccant packs ground into powder (or bought in that form) and soaked in water. They trap water by adsorption so they should readily give up that water when in an environment that is chemically seeking said water without the usual heating method. I think this would allow much greater accuracy in how much water you are adding to the silicone allowing for much tighter control of cure times and other properties than whatever the cornstarch has absorbed from the atmosphere in your paticular area. Also it would then be entirely comprised of non-organic compounds there would be fewer worries about coming across a mold that finds my cable stress relief delicious.

lclaiborne (author)absolutekold2017-11-29

Corn starch doesn't put water in. It pulls the water molecules into itself. Exactly what silica will do. So, you propose a more expensive, complicated method to acomplish exactly the same thing. Just buy Sugru then.

Once it's encapsulated, nothing can get in and eat that cornstarch. It's fine.

MAXIBABI (author)2015-10-13

J great stuff J just wondering if this stuff
is food safe?

The dentist wanted 120 yoyos for a new set
of bruxism guard (night grinding) so I
mould my self a set from alginate and cast one from plaster and used sugru to
mould which worked very nicely probably better then the first ones I got from
the dentist.

However I learnt that these are not food
safe thus I’m looking for another material to use.

It be great if this stuff would work if not
can you recommend a material that is?

lclaiborne (author)MAXIBABI2017-11-29

I use a mouthguard for football/ boxing. At three $ each, you can experimant.

ktana (author)MAXIBABI2015-11-03

Oogoo is awesome, but if you make it with the regular clear hardware store silicone it is extremely NOT FOOD-SAFE, don't put it in your mouth. You can buy two-part food-safe silicone mold making material, that might work for what you are describing. (Do your homework on that, I'm just suggesting it as a possibility.) When trying to find this sort of information, the first thing you want to check is the msds (safety data sheet (SDS), material safety data sheet (MSDS), product safety data sheet (PSDS) etc.) It's what the hospital uses to figure out how to treat people who put things in their mouths...

zootalaws (author)ktana2017-10-10

You are confused and a little bit hysterical.

The effecting substance is acetic acid, at a level similar to household vinegar. It is the same acid as is in vinegar. It is as dangerous as putting vinegar in your mouth.

The emergency room would rinse you out with something blue and laugh at you behind your back for being such a jessie.

DavidW236 (author)MAXIBABI2016-04-09

There is a one component food-safe version of silicone caulk. It is still based on the water-curing, acetate-releasing mechanism which this project is using.

zootalaws (author)DavidW2362017-10-10

not acetate, but acetic acid - vinegar.

sharpstick (author)DavidW2362016-09-01

I think aquarium sililicone sealant is considered food safe(actually fish safe, but that should be the same)

hesynergy (author)DavidW2362016-05-07

and that is?

zootalaws (author)MAXIBABI2017-10-10

No, it’s not, but that’s not the question you should be asking. ‘Food safe’ is an indication of whether something is able to be used in commercial kitchens. My trusty chopping block isn’t ‘food safe’ and it’s been involved in producing fine food for friends and family for over twenty years - but I’m not allowed, by law, to have it in my work kitchen. Instead I have to use those nasty plastic colored chopping boards that cut up and harbor germs, but can be put in a high-temperature commercial dishwasher.

Silicone caulk, before it has gone off, is a mild irritant, containing, as it does, acetic acid

However, once it has gone off is perfectly safe to put in your mouth. Think of the other places in the body that silicone is placed. O.0

Have a glass of something handy to rinse the very mild acid out, if you’re really worried - soy milk or Mylanta.

FWIW, the acetic acid in silicone caulk has about the same ph as vinegar. It is the same acid as is in vinegar, in fact.

lindas41 (author)MAXIBABI2017-07-02

Just reading this a little late, but if you still need a nightguard, go to wal mart for a mouthguard for sports. Follow the instructions to dip in boiling water. Then fit to your mouth and mold. I have done several. They cost 1.00! I have even done a mini, just the front of my bottom teeth where I grind. Good luck.

Pheline (author)lindas412017-08-24

I tried one and it was dreadful. Unusable. I found it worth spending the money for a real bruxism guard from my dentist… they are your teeth (jaws, skull…) after all. What animals die when they lose their last teeth? Elephants?

I could understand taking a mould of the dental guard when you pick it up from the dentist, even with this material, and casting another if you need it. (Like if the dog opens the nightstand drawer, removes the case, opens it carefully, takes out the guard and takes it away to explore and sample it. Clever, clever Siberian Husky.)

Can we have a moratorium on free advertising for the large store with the name beginning with "W"? They can well afford to do their own advertising.

PatB122 (author)MAXIBABI2016-12-18

You can buy non-toxic silicon for aquariums.

fredellarby (author)MAXIBABI2016-08-21

Probably too late to be of much use but if you rename this "sports mouth guard" they are under $10 at sporting good stores. Basically the same thing. No medical proffesional involved.

bclagett (author)fredellarby2016-09-03

I'm a retired dentist. I used to recommend sports mouth guards regularly. Back then, they were $6 at WalMart.

cgurlz (author)MAXIBABI2016-09-03

For the mouth guard, why not get the kind that athletes use? I've seen ones that can be softened in hot water, then when you bite them they take on your custom shape.

PythiaS1 (author)MAXIBABI2016-09-01

They now sell tooth grinding mouth guards at every pharmacy for about $20. It includes a tray and silicone mouth form. You soften it in boiling water then bite down on it for a couple of minutes and you have a custom fitted mouth guard. I've used them on and off for years.

RicksterInstructables (author)2017-07-02

When trying to coat/encase electronics with silicone caulk, I have had problems with the acetic acid (I assume) severely corroding the copper and other metal (ends up looking like a leaked battery). Any suggestions?

Yeah... Putting acid on copper is exactly how a leaked battery corrodes things.

Oddly, vinegar is acetic acid (very weak) and it's what you use to clean copper corrosian off. But this may not be the right material for the job.

Another poster above says he made this with the other kind of non vinegar-y silicone, try that?

baking soda?

Just to see what would happen, I added some baking soda (~50% by volume) to some notSugru.

I was wondering if you could "neutralize" the acetic acid.
But I figured it wasn't there if it didn't need to be, and I was right.

It made an interesting mess.
The caulk got thinner in viscosity, turned a milky white.
But it didn't even think about curing.
Even after a week, it was still the things he gloppy mess.

If you neutralize the acetic acid, it likely kills off the entire chain of chemical events needed to cure the stuff. But, good for you for experimenting!

Now, to hit up Wikipedia for exactly what that process is.

zootalaws (author)alysdexia2017-10-10

base can be just as destructive as acid.

Neutral cure silicone, or white bathroom silicone (actually acrylic) for potting electronics. But this Sugru substitute makes a fine mould for potting using NC or acrylic on your delicates.

My Dad makes a two-step: a small mould for NC, followed by a larger mould for not-Sugru. Effectively the NC forms a flexible barrier, the not-Sugru the final, harder shell.

He’s making pcbs for use in marine and corrosive environments and it works great.

We used to use oleophobic coatings, but they’re damned expensive and we still needed a harder shell anyway.

Cool, good info.

Maybe spray a couple of coats of clear coat on the electronics before potting them?

Technoshaman (author)RobPaige2017-08-15

+1

lclaiborne (author)2017-11-28

Try a stainless steel fork for mixing.

You know how you can whisk eggs and water with a fork to make scrambled? A fork is aces to mix all sorts of powdery things into thick stuff it doesn't want to mix with, especially when you put some wrist action on it and get up some speed. It does, it fact, whisk. Stainless should release the stuff easily.

I'll be using a new fork from the dollar store, the microscratches on older ones would hold material. And I'm neurotic over studio habits.

I do a lot of beating cocoa powder into strawberry yoghurt for a snack, a fork can do a surprising job in a tiny yoghurt cup. Should work well here. If you cook, you know about this. If you don't. ask somebody. You'll make better scrambled eggs, at least. ;)

cgurlz (author)2016-09-03

I've never heard of linseed oil paint. Where do you get it?

Will oogoo stick to the gloves? Does it stick to Saran Wrap?

lclaiborne (author)cgurlz2017-11-28

He means regular artists tube color oil paint, somebody you know has some and will spot you a drop. It's pigment ground into linseed oil. That's the only ingredients. But - now we have variations on the classic formula of pigments in oil, like water miscible oil paints and alkyd based paints. And of course, acrylics, which are not remotely close to oil paints chemically. There are also exotics like walnut oil paints. Be sure you're getting plain, old school paint. It's common, but just saying.

Hope that helps.

Commercial oil paints can be linseed oil based too, but there's so many manipulations of the chemistry plus the rise of alkyds that it's trickier. And, begging a bit of artists color vs buying a big container of paint, you can get a sample set of tube colors cheap if you need to. I'm biased, I'm an oil painter, but I'm also sensitive to inventory issues and costs. Tube paint will outlive all of us if stored decently.

mihes (author)cgurlz2017-11-23

Dear cgurtz I'm amazed by your naivete! Linseed oil used to be standard in paint. Be very careful in using linseed oil paints or anything containing linseed oil!! Linseed oil is reactive in oxygen (just plain air) Rags containing wiped off linseed oil paints will catch fire by themselves if waded up and left in a pile!! Always lay rags or drop clothes out flat in the open until 100% dry! Be safe!

zootalaws (author)cgurlz2017-08-14

He means 'fine art' oil paints - they are nearly all thinned by linseed oil, hence, oil paints. You get them at art stores. The good quality (Winsor and Newton, for example - http://www.winsornewton.com/au/shop/oil-colour/wi... ones will work just fine, but just whatever is local will work as well.

alysdexia (author)cgurlz2017-07-29

oil paint store

TheCraftsman1990 (author)2017-11-12

Why does silicone I work but silicone II won't?

namora (author)2016-09-01

I am curious if this material would be suitable for repairing shoe soles.

pjerz (author)namora2017-11-08

Does not work, I tried it. :)

namora (author)pjerz2017-11-08

I'm guessing that you tried the home made concoction. I understand it isn't up to par with the commercial stuff. New soles for my shoes were thirty bucks so it would be worth buying the good stuff if it will wear well.

pjerz (author)namora2017-11-10

I had much success going the classic way: Some rubber (latex?) from ebay to cut new soles for about 4 Euro, some shoemaker's cement ("Kövulfix") and some tools to add new soles worked very well.

PatB122 (author)namora2016-12-18

The Sugru website recommends putting it on shoe soles, and then texturing it to make non-slip shoes.

mrhealthpatriot (author)2017-09-20

Sorry for the very late post, but I made the Oogoo recipe three times last night using GE 100% Silicone (the one that smells like vinegar). I rolled out the batches and within a few minutes I ended up with two finished molds. The oogoo I made seems very flexible and sort of "floppy" compared to Sugru. Could I do something so that the end product is firmer?

moyerek (author)mrhealthpatriot2017-09-25

Two things: If you use old/open corn starch I have seen the Oogoo be a little more flexible than when I use new corn starch. In general I always start with brand new corn starch since I have seen more consistent and repeatable results between multiple batches than old corn starch. I suspect the old stuff has absorbed some moisture. Next, if you increase the amount of corn starch during mixing you will get a more firm product once cured and it will cure faster. I go for a play dough like product since it is the easiest to handle and cures fast.

pjerz (author)moyerek2017-11-08

Also, using more starch will make the result more firm, but also reduce the curing time dramatically. I also have tried to make the results somewhat firmer by adding several substances I had at hand, but with no reliable results. Please trx some mixes and let us know how they work. Thanks!

moyerek made it! (author)2017-08-01

I have had success with both GE I (acetic cure) and GE II (neutral cure) silicone caulk making Oogoo. Due to the strong smell of acetic cure silicone caulk, I only use GE II anymore. I cannot tell the difference between the two types of caulk after cure and the set times are pretty similar. If you are going to use a acetic cure silicone, I would recommend using the sandwich bag method to mix the silicone/cornstarch by hand and then cut the corner to squeeze out liking frosting. It significantly cuts down on the smell. For either type of caulk and independent of mixing method (bag or cup) I found it best to start with 5-6 tablespoons of caulk and then add a single tablespoon of cornstarch and completely mix before adding another tablespoon (and repeat). I went for a more play dough consistency which was much easier to work with than the very "sticky" mix shown in many of the example pictures. With that mix, GE I set 15-20 minutes and GE II set 20-30 minutes. Both were fully cured in about an hour. I attached some pictures of a experiment I ran to see if GE II caulk would work (which is does). The times shown are clock time so for example the top mix was completed at 7:42pm and the mix was fully set by 8:16pm. The second from the top mix never set up until several days later since I never added enough cornstarch. That was the one and only time that has ever happen to me. Oogoo is great however I still use Sugru at times since it is a bit of a process to mix Oogoo (setup, mixing, cleanup) and you get a much better product when you can mix up a larger batch of Oogoo than a tablespoon or two. I would also recommend make a test batch to confirm you get the right mix and set times before you go and try it out on a final product. This is a great tool to have in ones maker toolbox and a great Instructable by mikey77.

pjerz (author)moyerek2017-11-08

Hey thank you, these are valuable new hints! Using a bag to reduce smell is a great idea for acidic chaulk, although I prefer mixing it in plastic cups taken from dairy products (mostly PP or PE). Could you plese tell me what exactly this "neutral cure" silicon is? I would like to try it and I am German and have to find out how it is called here. :) Thanks!

corieltauvus (author)2017-07-02

Recognise that Sugru has some special heat resistant properties that Oogoo may not have. I have used Sugru, successfully, to repair a car radiator. Oogoo, I'm sure, could not handle the heat.

pjerz (author)corieltauvus2017-11-08

You could be right. Please try it and tell us the results so we all can learn from it! Thanks!

MichaelM1191 (author)2017-02-04

how do I know which silicone caulking to get there are so many

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