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Step 11: Etching Conductive Cloth for Soft Circuits

Pic14 shows a ribbon cable made of etched conductive cloth (Veilsheild). LEDs could be glued on it to make a light ribbon. Clean and sharp conductive traces like this are possible using the method described  below.

For the robot pumpkin head circuit I wanted to etch a very simple pattern as I was going to be trying several new techniques to glue and laminate the circuit.

The problem has always been to find an inexpensive, simple way to get a resist that is removable but will etch sharp high resolution conductive traces. I experimented with all kinds of tapes but they were either not waterproof enough or they had so much adhesion they peeled off the conductive coating on the fabric.

I finally tried clear vinyl shelf liner. It is just sticky enough to keep out the ferric chloride etchant, but not so sticky that it wont come off cleanly. the conductive cloth is placed on a piece of shelf liner with its sticky side up. this seals the back side. Another piece of liner is cut with a sharp x-acto knife to remove vinyl wherever the circuit needs to be etched. The conductive cloth is then sandwiched between the two layers of shelf liner. See pic15.

The cut traces are then burnished with a Popsicle stick to make sure the edges are adhered well to the cloth. It is then dipped into ferric chloride etchant for five minutes at room temperature. As soon as it looks well etched, it is removed and immediately submerged in a bucket of water and swished around. Remove it from the water and then rinse it some more to be sure all the etchant in the fibers is removed. the shelf liner can then be slowly peeled off and the cloth left to dry. Pic16 is the final cloth circuit board.

I have been experimenting with etching conductive cloth for several years. For some of the results see here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Conductive-Fabric-Make-Flexible-Circuits-Using-An/


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<p>Once the caulk-type tubes of silicone are opened, they will cure internally and become useless in a short time. If you have a food-saver type vacuum sealer, the tube can be sealed inside and will last much much longer. Even the low priced hand pump version will increase the shelf life of the unused silicone. The gallon size bags are difficult to find locally, but I checked Amazon and they are available there.</p><p>It's also possible (but not tested) that any unused oogoo left over could be saved in a vacuum bag.</p><p>If you use the hand pump vacuum bags, add a piece of adhesive tape on the vacuum flap of the bag to ensure it doesn't accidentally release and let air inside.<br></p>
I've used abig 'glob' of Vaseline on the end. It has worked really well. Also used a ball of polymer clay pushed on the end.
<p>&gt; It's also possible (but not tested) that any unused oogoo left over could be saved in a vacuum bag.</p><p>My bet: t's not gonna work very well - any moisture in the corn flour is going to trigger polymerisation - this is why you have shorter cure times even when the molded objects are massive.</p>
<p>I can see that might be the case. One would then expect that the suguru stuff doesn't use a similar method to catalyze. There probably isn't much moisture in the cornstarch until it is opened. After that, all bets are off.</p>
<p>&gt; There probably isn't much moisture in the cornstarch until it is opened</p><p>Up to 15% cf </p><p>https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/137.211</p>
<p>Great tip and useful for so many bags that I use, hoping that the zip will be good enough. I get the air out by rolling up the bags tightly, if possible, and then zipping them shut, and it fails pretty often. Thanks so much for such an easy fix.</p>
I'm loving Oogoo. Getting older and am making 'handles' for all sorts of tools and utensils. Ready to experiment with making a more liquid product so I can pour molds. One observation - when molding by hand, dipping your hands in cornstarch makes it easier to smooth the Oogoo. <br><br>One question - could you mix the ingredients in a closed ziplock bag?
I've been looking for a compound that i can use for gap filler on a pair of &quot;frankenboots&quot; i made. The soles dont quite match up with the upper so i need something that can fill in the gaps but, will remail flexible, and that will be water repellant. Has anyone used oogoo for anything comparable?
<p>Has anyone tried (not for food safe) FlexSeal as seen on TV and or using Undercoating and mixing that with cornstarch? I am not sure if FlexSeal can be had in clear or not that you could color on your own. But since they both come in cans that would be storage problem solved.</p><p>c</p>
Can this be used to serve food or water off? How toxic is it?
<p>Dear Mikey77 and all of the helpful commenters here, thank you! This stuff is the bomb! My husband and I have been using it for 4+ years to make relief sculpture molds for our costumes. Over that time we've refined the method specifically for this purpose. Many artists ask us how we do it , so we just made a pdf booklet called &quot;Oogoo for artists&quot;. Check it out here</p><p><a href="http://organicarmorarts.com/product/oogoo-for-artists-book/" rel="nofollow">http://organicarmorarts.com/product/oogoo-for-arti...</a></p>
<p>Dear Truffula,</p><p>Mikey77 was kind enough to share a wealth of knowledge for free but you chose to use this forum to sell yours. Why?</p>
<p>Ubobi, because Truffula has self-respect for her own value as a human being. Try being dirt-poor for years doing nonprofit work before you criticize others; it gives one perspective. Society is not entitled to my labor; I am not a slave. Neither is Trufulla. </p><p>Don't pretend otherwise.</p>
<p>JoeE40, you may have misunderstood my comment. I am not criticizing Truffula or anyone else for that matter, to sell her wares. My point is simple that this is not the forum. </p><p>Thank you for your thoughts.</p>
<p>Hmmm... I was looking at pic #11, and it reminds me of the sole of some flip flops. Have you tried making anything like that, as in repairs to shoes, flops, or even furniture feet (yeh - I don't know why that came to mind, there, lol). When you blow out a flip flop, and don't want to throw out your favorite ones, just because one of the plugs won't stay in, I wonder if you could do it with the oogroo... I'm just unsure of the durability, in those types of repairs, and such.</p>
<p>It is way stiffer than the foamy flip flops I grew up with. As for furniture... well, I've used it with some success as keyboard feet, phone charger feet, etc.</p>
Cool, thank you! I've used it (based on your ible) to repair cords attempting to separate from their appliance, and as a bathtub drain plug. Thank you so much for this ible- I often have new ideas for it, &amp; frequently find myself wondering 'I wonder if oogroo would work for this...'
<p>I've tried to make my own ooggoo but I think I have some problem.<br>Two days after making the oogoo and it is still sticky.</p><p><br>I used 2:1 silicon:corn starch + 2 drops of color.<br>I have a small flat rectangular left over. I can roll it to a cylinder and it will stay that way until I reopen it.<br>Is this normal?<br>How long does it take for the ooggoo to get to its final stage?</p>
<p>I've had some batches that stayed rather soft for months, and others that turned quite firm within a day or two. Probably related to the coloring I used. I have a bunch of fountain pen inks that I tried, as well as food coloring, and india ink,.</p>
<p>Hey, does anybody know if I could remove this? Real sugru apparently comes off if you need it to, and I'm planning to attach some sugroo/oogroo to my locker, but it can't be permanent. Does anybody know?</p>
<p>I have more trouble keeping it stuck than removing it.</p>
<p>i do not know. but try this on a piece of metal then try different ways of taking it off.</p><p>For hot-melt-glue i use rubbing alcohol (RA) and tweezers. i close the tweezers then dip the point in the RA, then press the tip where the glue meets the metal. the RA then flows between the glue and the metal, separating the two.</p>
Sugru SHELVING brackets hold weight; I'm wondering if anyone has experience with Oogoo to hold a SHELF?
<p>I haven't had a lot of success with this stuff sticking. I've tried using it like a rubber shield on several objects (thermos bottles, car keys, keychain lights, etc.) and it always lets go a lot easier than I'd prefer. In the picture is a bumper I made for a battery bank. Those holes are where neodymium magnets were stuck. They held for about a week of use before I started finding them stuck to each other instead of the battery. In this application, it's held onto the plastic case quite well. Not so much, the car key, bottles, etc.</p>
<p>This is good. </p>
<p>very impressive!</p>
<p>I made this today. FWIW, Alumilite dyes also work for coloring.</p><p>The smell of the acetic acid is very strong - your warning was accurate!</p><p>Great article!</p>
<p>Um &oacute;timo post,parab&eacute;ns mikey77</p>
<p>J great stuff J just wondering if this stuff<br>is food safe?</p><p>The dentist wanted 120 yoyos for a new set<br>of bruxism guard (night grinding) so I<br>mould my self a set from alginate and cast one from plaster and used sugru to<br>mould which worked very nicely probably better then the first ones I got from<br>the dentist.</p><p>However I learnt that these are not food<br>safe thus I&rsquo;m looking for another material to use.</p><p>It be great if this stuff would work if not<br>can you recommend a material that is?</p>
<p>Probably too late to be of much use but if you rename this &quot;sports mouth guard&quot; they are under $10 at sporting good stores. Basically the same thing. No medical proffesional involved.</p>
I'm a retired dentist. I used to recommend sports mouth guards regularly. Back then, they were $6 at WalMart.
For the mouth guard, why not get the kind that athletes use? I've seen ones that can be softened in hot water, then when you bite them they take on your custom shape.
They now sell tooth grinding mouth guards at every pharmacy for about $20. It includes a tray and silicone mouth form. You soften it in boiling water then bite down on it for a couple of minutes and you have a custom fitted mouth guard. I've used them on and off for years.
<p>There is a one component food-safe version of silicone caulk. It is still based on the water-curing, acetate-releasing mechanism which this project is using.</p>
<p>I think aquarium sililicone sealant is considered food safe(actually fish safe, but that should be the same)</p>
<p>and that is?</p>
<p>Oogoo is awesome, but if you make it with the regular clear hardware store silicone it is extremely NOT FOOD-SAFE, don't put it in your mouth. You can buy two-part food-safe silicone mold making material, that might work for what you are describing. (Do your homework on that, I'm just suggesting it as a possibility.) When trying to find this sort of information, the first thing you want to check is the msds (safety data sheet (SDS), material safety data sheet (MSDS), product safety data sheet (PSDS) etc.) It's what the hospital uses to figure out how to treat people who put things in their mouths...</p>
<p><a href="http://www.msdssearchengine.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.msdssearchengine.com</a></p>
I've never heard of linseed oil paint. Where do you get it?<br><br>Will oogoo stick to the gloves? Does it stick to Saran Wrap?<br>
Nice and detailed 'table man! My experience with point n.13 is with petroleum. It dilutes silicone quite well in case you wanna use it to coat things or fabric. It just take longer to cure.
<p>Amazing instructable, genius at work! Thank you for providing this very clear and detailed instructable to anyone who wants to work with this material.</p>
<p>I feel this is going to change my life :)</p>
<p>Can I use corn flour instead of corn starch?</p>
Also ..... Can you use potato starch?
<p>Corn and potato starch is essentially the same, so yes you can!</p>
<p>Try also with plaster. Plaster is even better than corn starch. When it is hardened if the compound come in contact with an high temperature source (eg.: solder iron) the corn starch tends to carbonize. The plaster not.</p>
<p>Sure you can. Will it work? Maybe. Try it out and let us know. Mikey77 did a lot of research which probably included flour and decided cornstarch is best. Personally I'll stick to cornstarch but I would experiment with flour if I was in a hurry and I ran out of cornstarch.</p>
To be fair, it seems the brand he mentions in the article has been discontinued (at least that's what I was told by two hardware stores) GE seems to just be making the II and Supreme line. He only says 100% silicone and that it has be the type that smells a certain way and is clear. They have sealed tips in the store so you can't smell them. It just makes finding the ingredients take a bit of research. I went ahead and bought two to try because I'm still not sure which will work. FYI for those searching, some online stores seem to categorize it under Sealants and not Caulks. I hope anyone else who is still making Oogoo can comment with what specific products they use.
<p>Walmart still sells the right stuff. You don't have to smell it to ensure it's the correct product. Look on the label and you'll see it has a &quot;warning&quot; that says acetic acid is released during cure. Acetic acid is vinegar. The wrong silicone has a similar warning, but the release chemical has a longer name I've forgotten.</p>
<p>corn flour will work as its just the name used for corn starch in other countries and also to the people asking any brand of silicone will work just look for it to say 100%silicone and clear on the label ones that are not clear have a colouring agent and are considered caulk and not silicone as well the smell comes with the clear part as the colored ones dont have the smell if you are here wanting more info try a quick google of oogoo they even have an info card that pops up for it now since this instrucable basically started a crafting revolution.</p>

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