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Step 11: Etching Conductive Cloth for Soft Circuits

Pic14 shows a ribbon cable made of etched conductive cloth (Veilsheild). LEDs could be glued on it to make a light ribbon. Clean and sharp conductive traces like this are possible using the method described  below.

For the robot pumpkin head circuit I wanted to etch a very simple pattern as I was going to be trying several new techniques to glue and laminate the circuit.

The problem has always been to find an inexpensive, simple way to get a resist that is removable but will etch sharp high resolution conductive traces. I experimented with all kinds of tapes but they were either not waterproof enough or they had so much adhesion they peeled off the conductive coating on the fabric.

I finally tried clear vinyl shelf liner. It is just sticky enough to keep out the ferric chloride etchant, but not so sticky that it wont come off cleanly. the conductive cloth is placed on a piece of shelf liner with its sticky side up. this seals the back side. Another piece of liner is cut with a sharp x-acto knife to remove vinyl wherever the circuit needs to be etched. The conductive cloth is then sandwiched between the two layers of shelf liner. See pic15.

The cut traces are then burnished with a Popsicle stick to make sure the edges are adhered well to the cloth. It is then dipped into ferric chloride etchant for five minutes at room temperature. As soon as it looks well etched, it is removed and immediately submerged in a bucket of water and swished around. Remove it from the water and then rinse it some more to be sure all the etchant in the fibers is removed. the shelf liner can then be slowly peeled off and the cloth left to dry. Pic16 is the final cloth circuit board.

I have been experimenting with etching conductive cloth for several years. For some of the results see here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Conductive-Fabric-Make-Flexible-Circuits-Using-An/


​Will Oogoo have more or less amount of strength as Sugru?
Will this stick to brick outside in Florida?
Most likely.<br>Why don't you try it?
<p>I am curious if this material would be suitable for repairing shoe soles.</p>
<p>The Sugru website recommends putting it on shoe soles, and then texturing it to make non-slip shoes.</p>
<p>J great stuff J just wondering if this stuff<br>is food safe?</p><p>The dentist wanted 120 yoyos for a new set<br>of bruxism guard (night grinding) so I<br>mould my self a set from alginate and cast one from plaster and used sugru to<br>mould which worked very nicely probably better then the first ones I got from<br>the dentist.</p><p>However I learnt that these are not food<br>safe thus I&rsquo;m looking for another material to use.</p><p>It be great if this stuff would work if not<br>can you recommend a material that is?</p>
<p>You can buy non-toxic silicon for aquariums.</p>
<p>Probably too late to be of much use but if you rename this &quot;sports mouth guard&quot; they are under $10 at sporting good stores. Basically the same thing. No medical proffesional involved.</p>
I'm a retired dentist. I used to recommend sports mouth guards regularly. Back then, they were $6 at WalMart.
For the mouth guard, why not get the kind that athletes use? I've seen ones that can be softened in hot water, then when you bite them they take on your custom shape.
They now sell tooth grinding mouth guards at every pharmacy for about $20. It includes a tray and silicone mouth form. You soften it in boiling water then bite down on it for a couple of minutes and you have a custom fitted mouth guard. I've used them on and off for years.
<p>There is a one component food-safe version of silicone caulk. It is still based on the water-curing, acetate-releasing mechanism which this project is using.</p>
<p>I think aquarium sililicone sealant is considered food safe(actually fish safe, but that should be the same)</p>
<p>and that is?</p>
<p>Oogoo is awesome, but if you make it with the regular clear hardware store silicone it is extremely NOT FOOD-SAFE, don't put it in your mouth. You can buy two-part food-safe silicone mold making material, that might work for what you are describing. (Do your homework on that, I'm just suggesting it as a possibility.) When trying to find this sort of information, the first thing you want to check is the msds (safety data sheet (SDS), material safety data sheet (MSDS), product safety data sheet (PSDS) etc.) It's what the hospital uses to figure out how to treat people who put things in their mouths...</p>
<p><a href="http://www.msdssearchengine.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.msdssearchengine.com</a></p>
Can this be used to serve food or water off? How toxic is it?
<p>There is non-toxic silicon available to use for fish tanks.</p>
<p>Hey, does anybody know if I could remove this? Real sugru apparently comes off if you need it to, and I'm planning to attach some sugroo/oogroo to my locker, but it can't be permanent. Does anybody know?</p>
I made a cord snap keeper and the edge of a white IKEA lack shelf. When I was done. It did not come off &quot;easily&quot;<br><br>
<p>I have more trouble keeping it stuck than removing it.</p>
<p>i do not know. but try this on a piece of metal then try different ways of taking it off.</p><p>For hot-melt-glue i use rubbing alcohol (RA) and tweezers. i close the tweezers then dip the point in the RA, then press the tip where the glue meets the metal. the RA then flows between the glue and the metal, separating the two.</p>
I've been looking for a compound that i can use for gap filler on a pair of &quot;frankenboots&quot; i made. The soles dont quite match up with the upper so i need something that can fill in the gaps but, will remail flexible, and that will be water repellant. Has anyone used oogoo for anything comparable?
Based on what I just made, this will be perfect
Sugru SHELVING brackets hold weight; I'm wondering if anyone has experience with Oogoo to hold a SHELF?
<p>I haven't had a lot of success with this stuff sticking. I've tried using it like a rubber shield on several objects (thermos bottles, car keys, keychain lights, etc.) and it always lets go a lot easier than I'd prefer. In the picture is a bumper I made for a battery bank. Those holes are where neodymium magnets were stuck. They held for about a week of use before I started finding them stuck to each other instead of the battery. In this application, it's held onto the plastic case quite well. Not so much, the car key, bottles, etc.</p>
Maybe try embedding he magnets in the material, so the oogoo surrounds them completely , also maybe less cornstarch to silicone willake it stickyer

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