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Step 11: Etching Conductive Cloth for Soft Circuits

Pic14 shows a ribbon cable made of etched conductive cloth (Veilsheild). LEDs could be glued on it to make a light ribbon. Clean and sharp conductive traces like this are possible using the method described  below.

For the robot pumpkin head circuit I wanted to etch a very simple pattern as I was going to be trying several new techniques to glue and laminate the circuit.

The problem has always been to find an inexpensive, simple way to get a resist that is removable but will etch sharp high resolution conductive traces. I experimented with all kinds of tapes but they were either not waterproof enough or they had so much adhesion they peeled off the conductive coating on the fabric.

I finally tried clear vinyl shelf liner. It is just sticky enough to keep out the ferric chloride etchant, but not so sticky that it wont come off cleanly. the conductive cloth is placed on a piece of shelf liner with its sticky side up. this seals the back side. Another piece of liner is cut with a sharp x-acto knife to remove vinyl wherever the circuit needs to be etched. The conductive cloth is then sandwiched between the two layers of shelf liner. See pic15.

The cut traces are then burnished with a Popsicle stick to make sure the edges are adhered well to the cloth. It is then dipped into ferric chloride etchant for five minutes at room temperature. As soon as it looks well etched, it is removed and immediately submerged in a bucket of water and swished around. Remove it from the water and then rinse it some more to be sure all the etchant in the fibers is removed. the shelf liner can then be slowly peeled off and the cloth left to dry. Pic16 is the final cloth circuit board.

I have been experimenting with etching conductive cloth for several years. For some of the results see here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Conductive-Fabric-Make-Flexible-Circuits-Using-An/


<p>This instructable is BS. Your end product ends up crumbly and nowhere near pliable enough to be compared to sugru in any of the ratios suggested by the author. Instructables is a great website but not when it promotes misinformation which in turn leads to excess waste and destruction of our environment.</p>
<p>Keep playing with the mix mate. It sounds like the corn starch is setting up the silicone before you have had a chance to fully mix it or it's setting up while you're still molding. I had really good success with this instructables method. Maybe your cornstarch has absorbed a lot of moisture while in storage or you live in a very humid area. As the author mentioned, they had to experement with different brands of silicone untill they had some success. </p>
<p>Are you certain that you used the correct form of silicone? The newer GE silicones (Silicone II and up) likely won't work properly with this technique, due to the fact that it's a neutral cure silicone instead of an acid cure. Very different chemistry.</p><p><a rel="nofollow"><strong>What's the difference between GE Silicone I* caulk and GE Silicone II* caulk?</strong></a><br>GE Silicone II* caulk is what's called a &quot;neutral cure&quot; silicone, which means no acids are released during the curing process (as there are in GE Silicone I*). This enables GE Silicone II* to adhere to a broader range of substrates such as plastics, concrete, and metals. Also, the odor of a neutral cure silicone such as GE Silicone II* is much less offensive than an acid or acetoxy cure silicone such as GE Silicone I*.</p>
<p>Add water to your silicone and it will catalyze in 15 minutes</p>
<p>I have a bunny that is 20-25 x6x6 that I want a mold - but mold materials are sooo expensive, this is right up my $$ alley. Could you tell me ratio's for silicone tubes of caulk, with soda and terpintine or lacquered thinner?</p>
<p>how do I know which silicone caulking to get there are so many</p>
<p>Would this work with an extruder for 3d printing? I am working on my thesis for my masters, and I am working with 3d printing with silicone while extruding a pizeo material inside. I wasn't sure if this would be a good subsitute. </p>
<p>Thank You! A very detailed and explained and well done Instructable! Not to mention the kitchen chemistry of the Oogoo itself. Seriously. I rarely take time to comment, but &quot;Good Work!&quot;. </p>
​Will Oogoo have more or less amount of strength as Sugru?
Will this stick to brick outside in Florida?
Most likely.<br>Why don't you try it?
<p>I am curious if this material would be suitable for repairing shoe soles.</p>
<p>The Sugru website recommends putting it on shoe soles, and then texturing it to make non-slip shoes.</p>
<p>J great stuff J just wondering if this stuff<br>is food safe?</p><p>The dentist wanted 120 yoyos for a new set<br>of bruxism guard (night grinding) so I<br>mould my self a set from alginate and cast one from plaster and used sugru to<br>mould which worked very nicely probably better then the first ones I got from<br>the dentist.</p><p>However I learnt that these are not food<br>safe thus I&rsquo;m looking for another material to use.</p><p>It be great if this stuff would work if not<br>can you recommend a material that is?</p>
<p>You can buy non-toxic silicon for aquariums.</p>
<p>Probably too late to be of much use but if you rename this &quot;sports mouth guard&quot; they are under $10 at sporting good stores. Basically the same thing. No medical proffesional involved.</p>
I'm a retired dentist. I used to recommend sports mouth guards regularly. Back then, they were $6 at WalMart.
For the mouth guard, why not get the kind that athletes use? I've seen ones that can be softened in hot water, then when you bite them they take on your custom shape.
They now sell tooth grinding mouth guards at every pharmacy for about $20. It includes a tray and silicone mouth form. You soften it in boiling water then bite down on it for a couple of minutes and you have a custom fitted mouth guard. I've used them on and off for years.
<p>There is a one component food-safe version of silicone caulk. It is still based on the water-curing, acetate-releasing mechanism which this project is using.</p>
<p>I think aquarium sililicone sealant is considered food safe(actually fish safe, but that should be the same)</p>
<p>and that is?</p>
<p>Oogoo is awesome, but if you make it with the regular clear hardware store silicone it is extremely NOT FOOD-SAFE, don't put it in your mouth. You can buy two-part food-safe silicone mold making material, that might work for what you are describing. (Do your homework on that, I'm just suggesting it as a possibility.) When trying to find this sort of information, the first thing you want to check is the msds (safety data sheet (SDS), material safety data sheet (MSDS), product safety data sheet (PSDS) etc.) It's what the hospital uses to figure out how to treat people who put things in their mouths...</p>
<p><a href="http://www.msdssearchengine.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.msdssearchengine.com</a></p>
Can this be used to serve food or water off? How toxic is it?
<p>There is non-toxic silicon available to use for fish tanks.</p>
<p>Hey, does anybody know if I could remove this? Real sugru apparently comes off if you need it to, and I'm planning to attach some sugroo/oogroo to my locker, but it can't be permanent. Does anybody know?</p>
I made a cord snap keeper and the edge of a white IKEA lack shelf. When I was done. It did not come off &quot;easily&quot;<br><br>
<p>I have more trouble keeping it stuck than removing it.</p>
<p>i do not know. but try this on a piece of metal then try different ways of taking it off.</p><p>For hot-melt-glue i use rubbing alcohol (RA) and tweezers. i close the tweezers then dip the point in the RA, then press the tip where the glue meets the metal. the RA then flows between the glue and the metal, separating the two.</p>
I've been looking for a compound that i can use for gap filler on a pair of &quot;frankenboots&quot; i made. The soles dont quite match up with the upper so i need something that can fill in the gaps but, will remail flexible, and that will be water repellant. Has anyone used oogoo for anything comparable?
Based on what I just made, this will be perfect
Sugru SHELVING brackets hold weight; I'm wondering if anyone has experience with Oogoo to hold a SHELF?
<p>I haven't had a lot of success with this stuff sticking. I've tried using it like a rubber shield on several objects (thermos bottles, car keys, keychain lights, etc.) and it always lets go a lot easier than I'd prefer. In the picture is a bumper I made for a battery bank. Those holes are where neodymium magnets were stuck. They held for about a week of use before I started finding them stuck to each other instead of the battery. In this application, it's held onto the plastic case quite well. Not so much, the car key, bottles, etc.</p>
Maybe try embedding he magnets in the material, so the oogoo surrounds them completely , also maybe less cornstarch to silicone willake it stickyer
<p>Thanks for doing all the research and providing these instructions. I'm going to start experimenting with it for various applications. Has anyone tried using reclaimed copier toner as a colorant? </p>
<p>maintenance man tip use a sheet rock screw or other screw to seal the end of your caulking tube just slide it in and any caulk that dries will cure to the screw and pull out for your next use </p>
<p>Once the caulk-type tubes of silicone are opened, they will cure internally and become useless in a short time. If you have a food-saver type vacuum sealer, the tube can be sealed inside and will last much much longer. Even the low priced hand pump version will increase the shelf life of the unused silicone. The gallon size bags are difficult to find locally, but I checked Amazon and they are available there.</p><p>It's also possible (but not tested) that any unused oogoo left over could be saved in a vacuum bag.</p><p>If you use the hand pump vacuum bags, add a piece of adhesive tape on the vacuum flap of the bag to ensure it doesn't accidentally release and let air inside.<br></p>
I've used abig 'glob' of Vaseline on the end. It has worked really well. Also used a ball of polymer clay pushed on the end.
<p>&gt; It's also possible (but not tested) that any unused oogoo left over could be saved in a vacuum bag.</p><p>My bet: t's not gonna work very well - any moisture in the corn flour is going to trigger polymerisation - this is why you have shorter cure times even when the molded objects are massive.</p>
<p>I can see that might be the case. One would then expect that the suguru stuff doesn't use a similar method to catalyze. There probably isn't much moisture in the cornstarch until it is opened. After that, all bets are off.</p>
<p>&gt; There probably isn't much moisture in the cornstarch until it is opened</p><p>Up to 15% cf </p><p>https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/137.211</p>
<p>Great tip and useful for so many bags that I use, hoping that the zip will be good enough. I get the air out by rolling up the bags tightly, if possible, and then zipping them shut, and it fails pretty often. Thanks so much for such an easy fix.</p>
I'm loving Oogoo. Getting older and am making 'handles' for all sorts of tools and utensils. Ready to experiment with making a more liquid product so I can pour molds. One observation - when molding by hand, dipping your hands in cornstarch makes it easier to smooth the Oogoo. <br><br>One question - could you mix the ingredients in a closed ziplock bag?
<p>Has anyone tried (not for food safe) FlexSeal as seen on TV and or using Undercoating and mixing that with cornstarch? I am not sure if FlexSeal can be had in clear or not that you could color on your own. But since they both come in cans that would be storage problem solved.</p><p>c</p>
<p>Dear Mikey77 and all of the helpful commenters here, thank you! This stuff is the bomb! My husband and I have been using it for 4+ years to make relief sculpture molds for our costumes. Over that time we've refined the method specifically for this purpose. Many artists ask us how we do it , so we just made a pdf booklet called &quot;Oogoo for artists&quot;. Check it out here</p><p><a href="http://organicarmorarts.com/product/oogoo-for-artists-book/" rel="nofollow">http://organicarmorarts.com/product/oogoo-for-arti...</a></p>
<p>Dear Truffula,</p><p>Mikey77 was kind enough to share a wealth of knowledge for free but you chose to use this forum to sell yours. Why?</p>
<p>Ubobi, because Truffula has self-respect for her own value as a human being. Try being dirt-poor for years doing nonprofit work before you criticize others; it gives one perspective. Society is not entitled to my labor; I am not a slave. Neither is Trufulla. </p><p>Don't pretend otherwise.</p>
<p>JoeE40, you may have misunderstood my comment. I am not criticizing Truffula or anyone else for that matter, to sell her wares. My point is simple that this is not the forum. </p><p>Thank you for your thoughts.</p>
<p>Hmmm... I was looking at pic #11, and it reminds me of the sole of some flip flops. Have you tried making anything like that, as in repairs to shoes, flops, or even furniture feet (yeh - I don't know why that came to mind, there, lol). When you blow out a flip flop, and don't want to throw out your favorite ones, just because one of the plugs won't stay in, I wonder if you could do it with the oogroo... I'm just unsure of the durability, in those types of repairs, and such.</p>

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