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I needed to make some cards for a game that I'm designing. I needed a lot of them - a total of just under 200! I looked here to see if anyone had a method of easily making these cards, but all I could find were ways in which you had to either destroy or use another deck that you purchased - I didn't want to do that, so I pondered a bit and came up with the following method that creates custom cards without messing up a pre-made deck. These cards are entirely from scratch.

Step 1: Gather the Materials & Tools

Here's what you'll need to make the cards this way: 1) A program to draw your custom set of cards. (I actually used two different programs each has its own advantages) I used Microsoft Word and nanDeck (http://www.nand.it/nandeck/) Word is harder to position stuff precisely, but you don't have to learn a new programming language. NanDeck makes it easy to position stuff, but it took learning a new programming language.
2) A good quality color printer (I used a color laser printer at work) 3) Paper to print your cards on. 4) Glue stick (I prefer the 'color stick' variety - it's easy to see if you've got good coverage) 5) Optionally some clear spray paint to seal the cards with. 6) A Good paper cutter for trimming the cards out of the paper after gluing (It is hard to cut good strait edges with scissors).

Step 2: Draw the Cards

In this method the cards are made of three layers of paper glued together. This gluing stiffens the three layers and makes them feel like a professionally made card. So start with a rectangle that is 3 times as tall as you want the card. In the bottom third draw a solid black rectangle, this serves to block any light that could otherwise pass through the paper and reveal it's value. In the middle third draw the image of the back of your cards. If this image has a definite up and down remember to place it upside down. Then in the top third draw the values of the individual cards. The cards I made were 2.125" X 3.125" when finished (so the rectangle in the drawing program was 2.125" X 9.375"). This size will allow three cards per each 8.5 X 11 inch sheet of paper. Putting at least a small space between the cards makes it easier to trim the cards, if they are touching and you miss the line by a little you will make one card too thin and another too wide. The one that is too wide is not a real problem as it can just be re-trimmed, but the other is always going to be too narrow. I had originally made these cards with three separate pieces of paper, but alignment became a nightmare.

Step 3: Print the Cards.

Chose what printer you are going to use and print the cards. I suggest that you use a printer that has ink that is not water soluble. Sweat or other moisture from your hands or the glue can cause water soluble ink to run or smear.

Step 4: Trim Off the Bottom of the Paper

Trim off the portion of the paper that is below the solid black rectangles. It is ok if you accidentally trim off a small amount of the black rectangles (no more than a sixteenth of an inch) as this will make it easier to fold them. I suggest that you use a good paper cutter here as this will make a nice straight edge. I did not have a cutter the correct size for this so I used scissors.

Step 5: Fold the Paper.

Carefully fold the paper at the line between the solid black rectangles and the back of your cards. Then fold this so that it lines up with the top of the face of your cards. These folds should be done with the printed side of the paper facing away from you so that the back and the front of the cards will end up on the outside of the folded paper. I found the easiest way to do this was to stand near my sliding glass patio door, folding the paper on the door. That way I could see where to fold the paper. The more carefully you fold the paper here the better your cards fronts and back will be lined up.

Step 6: Glue the Paper.

Unfold the paper and spread glue on the back of the solid black portion. Fold this part back into place against the card backs and smooth out any air pockets or glue clumps. Then spread glue on the face of the black portions. Fold the faces over and smooth as before. To prevent getting glue all over your table or desktop, it is helpful to put a scrap piece of paper under the cards you are gluing. After the paper has been glued and folded I found that it is good to put them between the pages of a large book (I used a big Shakespeare Volume)and let them dry for at least 24 hours. This will help them dry flat. You should possibly put them a bit further from the spine though as I found my cards had a slight curl toward that part of the card when I took them out.

Step 7: Coat the Cards (Optional)

This step is not actually required, but I recommend it to seal the cards from moisture softening the glue and all your hard work coming undone. You can use either a clear acrylic or lacquer spray paint for this coating process. Spray a generous coat on one side, allow it to dry to touch, and then do the same on the other. Also, if you used a water soluble ink when you printed the cards this coating will prevent sweat and other moisture from messing up your fancy new custom deck of cards.

Step 8: Cut Out the Cards

Using a paper cutter trim away the excess paper. Once this has been completed on all of your cards, congratulations you now have a shiny new custom deck of cards!
<p>I'll give it a go and let you know how it turns out. Thanks</p>
<p>I don't understand what you do in the top third</p>
<p>The top third is the face of the cards, so you put there whatever you want to be on the face.</p>
I'm confused on how to do this. Can you explain?
Specifically, what is it that you don't understand here? what part do you need explained further?
I have office word 2007. I'm confused on how to make the card assembly. thanks
Well, this instructable wasn't meant to be training in how to use MS Word (I assumed that folks would already have that knowledge). Here's the steps I used:<br>1) Click on the insert tab (in the upper left of the screen just below the window border).<br>2) find the 'shapes' menu and select rectangle.<br>3) draw a rectangle on the document (size doesn't matter at this point, we're going to change it later)<br>4) right click on the rectangle you just drew<br>5) in the pop up menu, that came up when you right clicked, choose 'format autoshape'<br>6)in the dialog that pops up go to the size tab<br>7) set the horizontal size to 2.13 &quot; (or what ever you want for the width of your cards)<br>8) set the vertical width to 9.38&quot; (or 3 times the size of the height of your cards)<br>9) position this on the page where you want it, by dragging.<br>10) draw another rectangle and using steps 3-8 set it's size to horiz. 2.13 by vert. 3.13.<br>11) switch to the 'colors and lines' tab and set the fill color to black (or some other dark color).<br>12) drag this new rectangle to the bottom of the first rectangle (it should snap into place when you get close).<br>13) copy and paste the second rectangle and move the pasted copy to the first rectangle just above the second one.<br>14) if you want an image for the back of your cards, bring up the 'format autoshape dialog (steps 4 &amp; 5) on the third rectangle.<br>15) on the 'colors and lines' tab click the 'fill effects...' button, this will bring up the fill effects dialog.<br>16) in the fill effects dialog choose the 'picture' tab and choose the picture you want for the back of your card.<br>17) select the 'rotate fill effects with shape' check box (at the bottom of the dialog).<br>18) click 'ok' on the fill effects dialog<br>19) on the 'size' tab of the 'format autoshape' dialog (which should still be open).<br>20) set the 'rotation' to 180 degrees.<br>21) click 'ok' on the 'format autoshape' dialog - the third rectangle should now be filled an upside down image of the back of your cards.<br>22) press ctrl+v to do another paste of the second rectangle <br>23) move this fourth rectangle to the top of the first rectangle<br>24) change the back ground of the fourth rectangle to white<br>25) set it's fill to be the picture you want on the front of this card.<br>26) select all four rectangles and group them by right clicking on one of them after they are all selected and select the 'grouping -&gt; group' item in the pop up menu.<br>27) copy and paste the entire group twice (ctrl+c, then ctrl+v).<br>28) place the second and third 'card' evenly on the page.<br>29) if you want different faces on each card then select the top rectangle in the card you want to change it on and then select a different fill picture<br>30) repeat step 29 for each different face you need.<br><br>I hope that these steps help.
<p>How will I be able to do this if I don't have any of these programs?</p>
<p>Last I checked Nandeck is free, so you can download it. Short of having a computer you would have to draw the images by hand, a long and laborious process to be sure, but still do able. but an even better way to create your own custom cards has become available since I wrote this instructable - check out the card making bit at www.thegamecrafter.com</p>
what colors and lines tab?
The one on the &quot;format autoshape&quot; dialog. like in the following pic
since my initial writing of this instructable I've found that &quot;spray mount&quot; spray on adhesive works better and makes more durable card. I've also found a slighty better method of making the cards that I'm working on an instructable for.
Is there an advantage to folding and gluing the cards over printing on both sides of the card stock?
Another advantage of folding and gluing is that you can add a visual barrier between the face and back of the cards.&nbsp; Where as with printing on both side of card stock this is not possible and even the heaviest card stock (110lb) that I can find is still quite see through :(<br />
I should also add that with the folded method, if you're careful, you can just about gaurantee the front/back alignment.
only that the folding and gluing uses regular paper, a bit cheaper than card stock. From Office Depot 250 sheets of card stock cost about $12, but regular paper you can get 500 sheets for about $5.
spray will give you traction but you loe durability lamination is more durable but makes em slick thanks for this btw i have a game i've had in my head for ...damn 7 years but never got around to making actual cards for
I've found that they are slick enough if you make sure to use a gloss finish spray paint.
yea except slick playing cards are a pain to handle
The "slickness" I get with a glossy spray is about equal to that of a purchased deck. I misinterpreted your original comment thinking that you liked them to be slick.
I like the idea of this using the laquer spray instead of laminating. How do the cards fare with a decent amount of use?
I honestly don't know how well they'll hold up under abuse, I haven't had them around long enough to find out. Though in thinking about it if you really want a rugged deck it'd probably be better to figure out how to get the front/back alignment good enough and print them on card stock.

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