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This Instructable details how to make a professional-grade (waterproof) tactical pressure switch for activating rifle-mounted lasers, scopes, TacLights, scopes, etc.
I found that quite frequently I accidentally left the laser on my red dot sight turned on. This led to more than one dead battery when I needed it most. With this remote pressure switch, the dot only turns on when I need it, instead of running down before it's necessary. It also adds a professional "look" to my paintball marker, adding to the "milsim" theme.
The principle of operation is quite simple. There are two conductive pieces of copper foil that are separated by a spongy foam, and when the foil is pressed together, they connect through a hole in the middle of the foam.
I was able to make this switch and wire it into my scope in under two hours, using only materials I had on hand. Granted, had I not been documenting the process, it probably would have taken an hour or less.
Also note that the accessory can be returned to its normal operating mode by simply removing the battery isolator, shorting the switch.
I found that quite frequently I accidentally left the laser on my red dot sight turned on. This led to more than one dead battery when I needed it most. With this remote pressure switch, the dot only turns on when I need it, instead of running down before it's necessary. It also adds a professional "look" to my paintball marker, adding to the "milsim" theme.
The principle of operation is quite simple. There are two conductive pieces of copper foil that are separated by a spongy foam, and when the foil is pressed together, they connect through a hole in the middle of the foam.
I was able to make this switch and wire it into my scope in under two hours, using only materials I had on hand. Granted, had I not been documenting the process, it probably would have taken an hour or less.
Also note that the accessory can be returned to its normal operating mode by simply removing the battery isolator, shorting the switch.
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Signing UpStep 1Materials
Here are the parts you need:
+A scope/laser/light/etc of your choice
+An old car cell phone charger cord - If you prefer a curly cord, just like the commercial ones have, that is. Bonus points if the cable is colored black. An old telephone cable should work, too, but having a straight segment at the switch end makes life a lot easier. Also, you only need two wires to make the switch work.
+A small rectangle of plastic stock 1.5" x 0.5" - The rectangle will form the semi-rigid switch body. This can be anything from part of an old credit card to a cutout from a Chubs Wipes container. I used the latter.
+Heat shrink tubing - Black is best, as it doesn't stand out as much. You'll need at least 0.75" tubing to cover the switch itself and some smaller sizes to seal the cord end. I used a piece about 2" long and trimmed it once it was shrunk. This can be found anywhere from Fry's electronics (they have a great variety box) to Radio Shack.
+Light-duty epoxy to seal the seams between tubing segments (thanks Spork) or (in my case)super glue, if nothing else is available. Note that if you will need the switch to be completely flexible, super glue will crack, allowing moisture inside the switch.
+Copper tape - Two strips of tape form the switch contacts. I used some leftover tape from shielding my bass guitar. Aluminum could be used, except that it doesn't solder. Any conductive, solder-able tape or foil will work.
+Thin packing foam - This is what keeps the switch off when there's no pressure on it. I used a leftover sheet of pink foam, the kind that is made of very small bubbles. Whatever you use, it has to be thick enough to hold the conductive tape apart but thick enough to not need too much force to activate.
+Small strip of paper - Depending on the model of scope/sight/laser/light you're using, it might be necessary to isolate the sides of the battery from the compartment. The idea is to only have the battery connected when the switch is pressed.
+Solder of your choice
+A scope/laser/light/etc of your choice
+An old car cell phone charger cord - If you prefer a curly cord, just like the commercial ones have, that is. Bonus points if the cable is colored black. An old telephone cable should work, too, but having a straight segment at the switch end makes life a lot easier. Also, you only need two wires to make the switch work.
+A small rectangle of plastic stock 1.5" x 0.5" - The rectangle will form the semi-rigid switch body. This can be anything from part of an old credit card to a cutout from a Chubs Wipes container. I used the latter.
+Heat shrink tubing - Black is best, as it doesn't stand out as much. You'll need at least 0.75" tubing to cover the switch itself and some smaller sizes to seal the cord end. I used a piece about 2" long and trimmed it once it was shrunk. This can be found anywhere from Fry's electronics (they have a great variety box) to Radio Shack.
+Light-duty epoxy to seal the seams between tubing segments (thanks Spork) or (in my case)
+Copper tape - Two strips of tape form the switch contacts. I used some leftover tape from shielding my bass guitar. Aluminum could be used, except that it doesn't solder. Any conductive, solder-able tape or foil will work.
+Thin packing foam - This is what keeps the switch off when there's no pressure on it. I used a leftover sheet of pink foam, the kind that is made of very small bubbles. Whatever you use, it has to be thick enough to hold the conductive tape apart but thick enough to not need too much force to activate.
+Small strip of paper - Depending on the model of scope/sight/laser/light you're using, it might be necessary to isolate the sides of the battery from the compartment. The idea is to only have the battery connected when the switch is pressed.
+Solder of your choice
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If you're into the Mil-Sim look/style of play, as well as scenario/woodsball, I would highly recommend any of the three main Tippmann markers (98C, A-5, X7). They can be pricey, though, so BT sells a nice alternative which is still insanely customizable, mind you.
Research before you buy, or you might end up sorry with your purchase. Each person might have different tastes. There's also pride in ownership, so take all gear reviews with a grain of salt.
That said there are several tutorials on the subject found on-line the best in M.H.O. is found here http://www.aws.org/wj/2004/02/046/
(American Welding Society)
Oh, also some "rock" textured paint, sprayed over with camouflage colors.
I know what you mean. I've ground the tip down with my Dremel grinding bit, and of course, it keeps returning to this sad state. I've got a few finer tips to work with, but I figure I'll save those for working with fine electironics (i.e. adding internal bluetooth to a netbook). I've found that this tip (although pitted and battered) works quite well because the main pit holds just a bit of solder, facilitating the heat transmission to components to be soldered.
The inside of the tip is copper. Once the copper is exposed, the tip is ruined. Bare copper will quickly, as you say, "return to this sad state". Oxidized copper hates solder.
Time to buy a new tip, learn to clean it properly, and try not to leave it on overnight.
Surely there must be an instructable on cleaning and maintenance of soldering iron tips.
That odd tin/lead ratio has the lowest melting point of all tin/lead alloys, and has the further advantage of having no "plastic range"; it freezes abruptly, with no slushy phase. If you can't find 63/37, 60/40 is more common.
As I said, I have other (non-sanded) tips, but I save those for finer jobs. I just keep this one on the iron as my general-use tip.
Between r.hedgehog and your comments, I could imagine hundreds if not thousands of ruined tips because people "read it on instructables" and took sandpaper to their soldering irons in a misguided attempt to clean them.
I'll edit it in, though.
Most often they will pick-up a glimpse of what they want to know i.e. search on Google for cleaning solder tip, then go to the paragraph on sanding, grinding or using a dremel and the 6 watt bulb goes on over their head and they run out to the garage and grind their new tip down with the stone grinder because it had some solder on it...
This is a little off-topic but explains it well,
I belong to a fantastic site involving RC Cars, unfortunately there is a 80 - 20 mix of good and bad advice on it and even though the bad advice is "corrected" by more knowledgeable people it is done so several lines down. So kids searching power increase read: "I ran my engine really lean and gained 35% power" several lines later Joe Good Guy writes: "Hey you're going to fry your piston if you run it that lean" but all the kids seem to see is "I ran my engine really lean and gained 35% power" then 25 newbies read the same bad advice and all blow their engines and wonder why, failing to read the warning of a fried piston. I've tried to get the site owner to remove the bad advice because it causes major problems but he feels it interrupts the flow of the thread. I think your method is a decent compromise.
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