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Step 5Primer and Paint
Once the valve cover has been cleaned, it's ready for the primer. I was unable to get pictures of MY valve cover for this step, but I did get pictures of a friend's valve cover through this step, and he did the same procedure I did. Minus the primer, because I'm an idiot. The primer we used was Dupli-color gray. This will dry rapidly, but you should wait five minutes before you do another coat. Spray very lightly all over the valve cover. If you miss a spot, don't stress it. You can get it with the second coat of primer. All in all, my friend did five coats of primer. Be sure to cover all the excess holes that you don't want primer in, such as the oil fill cap hole, and any screw holes.
For painting, wait until the primer has had multiple coats, and has had a chance to dry for at least ten minutes. Begin application of the first coat of paint. I did four total. Spray lightly, and cover everything. Wait ten minutes minimum per coat of paint. Once you've covered everything in a nice even coat, you must let it dry. I have heard that you can bake it in the oven for an incredibly shiny look, but I wouldn't do something like that. Paint fumes in an enclosed and heated space seems like a bad idea to me. To get the glaze, once you're done painting it, you can either apply a spray on clear coat of some kind, or place it back on your car, and drive around for a bit. The engine's heat will help it cure, and give it that nice shiny look.
Now mind you, you'll only get a paint job as good as you can do yourself. It might take a few times, but you can do it yourself. I'm not a perfectionist like my friend is, so I don't freak if there's a chip in the paint, since I did it myself. If I had it professionally done however, I would freak. It costs me less than a dollar to small area. I have a few cans of engine enamel lying around though, that's why.
Anyways, once you're done painting, it's time for the final step, Reassembly.
For painting, wait until the primer has had multiple coats, and has had a chance to dry for at least ten minutes. Begin application of the first coat of paint. I did four total. Spray lightly, and cover everything. Wait ten minutes minimum per coat of paint. Once you've covered everything in a nice even coat, you must let it dry. I have heard that you can bake it in the oven for an incredibly shiny look, but I wouldn't do something like that. Paint fumes in an enclosed and heated space seems like a bad idea to me. To get the glaze, once you're done painting it, you can either apply a spray on clear coat of some kind, or place it back on your car, and drive around for a bit. The engine's heat will help it cure, and give it that nice shiny look.
Now mind you, you'll only get a paint job as good as you can do yourself. It might take a few times, but you can do it yourself. I'm not a perfectionist like my friend is, so I don't freak if there's a chip in the paint, since I did it myself. If I had it professionally done however, I would freak. It costs me less than a dollar to small area. I have a few cans of engine enamel lying around though, that's why.
Anyways, once you're done painting, it's time for the final step, Reassembly.
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Mar 2, 2010. 11:43 PMKibbe17
says:
How many cans of each item (remover, primer, paint) Did it take you for all coats??
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Feb 28, 2011. 11:12 PMgtkid2002 (author)
says:
It's been a while, but If I recall, two coats of aircraft remover, three to four coats of primer, and four to six coats of paint. Take your time, do it in on a warm day (60+, seriously) otherwise the paint gets cloudy and ruins all your hard work. Then you have to either paint over it, or start from scratch Same goes with a clearcoat if you use that.
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