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                     Hey guys, this is part of a series for tailors (at home and work) to cover the basics on how to professionally sew alterations and repairs by hand so that they hold up to regular use (wear and tear). Unless otherwise mentioned, all finished pieces are machine washable and heirloom quality. The number one request a person gets at a dry cleaners or tailor shop is to have buttons sewn back on and you do A LOT. Generally an experienced seamstress can sew a button on from start to finish in under 2-3 minutes. So how do you too sew those buttons on so fast? And keep them from falling apart?
This quick instructable will teach you how.

                   You will need:

1) Buttonhole thread (Professional shops normally use Silamide type A thread sold in small 40 yard cards in any beading store or $1 each on ebay/Etsy). I stock the basic 5 colors: white, tan, brown, gray, and black which pretty much covers everything that comes up.
2) Scissors
3) Needle (John James needles are considered the best on the market. You can buy a 100 professional pack for $5.00 on Amazon which will probably last you your whole life or any sewing store. 3-5 will generally run you under $2. These are GREAT.)
4. Button to be sewn on
5. Article of clothing to be repaired or finished

Step 1: Cut the thread

When doing button repairs, you want roughly 1 yard or meter to start out with. Cut a piece of string the distance between your fingertips and nose.

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<p>This was a straight forward process and it resulted in a successful garment repair.</p><p>I appreciate the adaptable method described in this Instructable.</p>
<p>It seems that my coat buttons are always coming loose from constant opening closing / going in and out. Any thoughts around using elastic thread? Would that help?</p>
<p>If you use waxed thread, and leave some space between the button and the fabric, then wrap extra thread around the thread between the button and the fabric, it will add a spacer that can help keep it from breaking. Waxed thread is more difficult to tear. You could also try to find some industrial thread, such as Tex 70 or higher. That won't tear unless it's cut. </p>
Thanks!
<p>I am not much of a sewer but I find I must replace a button on my ugg boots. I found a replacement button - but I have no idea what needle or thread to get. Can anyone help me out with this? Thanks so much.</p>
<p>Standard needle and thread should work. Ugg boots aren't made of tough leather, so you can put a needle through them with more effort than cloth, but it's not horrible. If you still have difficulty, you can find awls that will punch holes and you can thread the needle through. If you feel that normal thread won't hold on as well, you can get waxed thread that will help a bit more. It's not much more difficult than a normal button, but it won't be as easy! Good luck!</p>
<p>Not easy but at 43 years of age I finally sewed my first button(s) on my coat! Thanks for a super tutorial with very detailed pictures and steps, to help get these buttons on correctly without spending my time driving to and from dry cleaners and paying $5 a button! Yes I live in the Northeast! lol</p>
<p>Assuming this second attempt at my button stays on this time (I think it will) this was an excellent tutorial and told me just that little bit extra I needed to know to be sure I made a strong enough fastening. Good tip with the doubling of the cotton twice to save effort!</p>
<p>Great tutorial! The pictures are especially well done. Thank you!</p>
Interesting. I just use regular sewing thread coated with beeswax and a toothpick under flat buttons to help create a shank to wrap the thread around.
That's how my mom used to do it when I was a little kid. It also works, this is just a professional finish if you need your stuff to hold up for years or plan to charge money for your work.
Finally! Somebody who takes buttons seriously. <br> <br>Thank you for an informative Instructable. Well written and thoughtfully illustrated, I learned a lot. <br> <br>Now I have a favor to ask. I need some practical and creative thinking to solve a fastening problem on my swim parka. This coat is oversized because I often wear it with wetsuits up to 10mm thick. Other times with little or nothing underneath, and that's the trouble part. I would like to fasten it without using the zipper, like a cape, so it will snug down against me. Tying it across the breast and maybe also the waist would be fine. This is life-support critical. Swimming up to 5 hours a day is bone-chilling and mind-numbing. I need protection from sea winds between dives and for beach swims too. <br> <br>The coat is made with 2 layers &mdash; nylon taffeta outer shell and polyester fleece inside. The layers float, only stitched together at the hems. But it wouldn't bother me to quilt them together in some areas. I doubt either layer would be strong enough to support the fasteners I need. This has to be rugged. I wear the parka on dive boats for days at time. It's rough. Heavy gear and spearguns are being carried with the boat deck always moving. <br> <br>I can fabricate any kind of button/hook/cleat from indestructible marine plastic up to &frac34; inch thick. Using thread/rope/webbing/elastic/wire is not an obstacle. This problem needs an extraordinary solution: I appreciate you giving it some uninhibited consideration. <br> <br>Cheers from Sarasota.
Why aren't you using a scuba dry suit for extreme conditions like this where you try and limit your actual exposure to the water as much as possible as it means you lose core body temp 30 times slower. They run for $300-400 around here though the pricey ones will often be closer to a grand. I've seen plenty of fishermen around here spend the winter living out of them with a sweater or something underneath. Your hands don't even get wet 60 meters under.
&quot;Why aren't you using a scuba dry suit &hellip;?&quot; <br> <br>They're fine for commercial divers who scrape boat hulls, but I chase fish. Trust me, swimming in a balloon is no fun. And who wants to wear one to the beach? And then you need a regulator refit and inflator hose and more weights for buoyancy compensation. And you can never pee. I'd rather deal with the challenge of attaching a couple of pretty buttons. <br> <br>You seem like a creative craftsman. I was just hoping you would have a unique idea for upgrading my parka. Sorry.
Flavrt, I'm not opposed to a little DIY hack, just trying to figure out what you need. If you're just trying to upgrade the coat buttons so they work to close in cold weather, you may want to use magnets like the fur industry or a wood toggle and cord like a parka like the skiing industry as you can still manage those with cold frozen fingers. If you want to snug it down belts work. Let me know if that works for you. <br>

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Bio: Hi, we're Dara and Nash. Industrial designers, tinkers, and mayhem builders. Follow our travels.
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