Step 3: Front Derailleur Limit Screw Settings

The limit screws stop the inward or outward travel of the front derailleur. The limit screws should be marked “L” and “H”. The L-screw will stop the derailleur cage from moving past the inner chainring. The H-screw will stop the derailleur cage from moving past the outer chainring.

If the screws are not marked, you will have to test them to figure out which is which. Shift to the inner front chainring. Select one of the screws and turn it clockwise then counter-clockwise. If the derailleur moves then this is the “L” screw. If it does not; test the other screw. The screw that does not move the derailleur is the “H” screw. Make note of which is which.
<p>Awesome guide, best the bike has shifted since new!</p>
This is completely correct as a derailleur install/cable set up. Although I would tension the cable from the small chain ring then see how adjustments are set 1st. After all why go through the whole process if it's not necessary. Hi low screws can be adjusted afterwards. Just remember 3-5mm off the chain ring, but its a simple guide to follow and negative comments are pointless.
<p>this guide gets the first step completely wrong. you always do anything that requires cable tension DEAD LAST because it changes as you tune everything else. how am i supposed to get the derailer height right when i'm gonna be adjusting everything else that affects the cable tension first. this is unusable for me.</p>
gud one. its gonna save some bugs.
Nice instruction and VERY helpful for those of us who want to do this, but really had no clue how to get it right! Loved the penny idea, makes me want to keep a few of my Canadian ones..we are not minting them anymore:( Oh well. <br>Thanks, and keep showing how to do mechanics the right way:) <br>cheers <br>Vicki
This was really well done. I was having problems with my front derailleur and could not get it adjusted. Read your instructions and set it with no problems. Thanks!
hi there, <br>i also recently changed a new d&eacute;railleur, and i started by adjusting my climbing crank ring, and on freewheel part, i shifted to 34T my largest climbing rear ring. and i adjusted my L screw on front d&eacute;railleur, and just made a few mm away from seat tube. then i tighten my front shift wire by holding wire end tighten with another hand's fingering touch. i think this is easier for me to start first step of FD adjustment. and yes, shift to middle ring and adjust height, only i'd have to release the wire and back to my step one if fitted into wrong height. and my newly changed crankset was from 48T to 44T now, so i'd later on adjusted my H screw prevent chain to fall out. <br>your bike looked classical :)
Yep! There are few different ways to do this, this is just the way that works best for me. It's a bit harder when you install a new derailleur as well, you don't really have anything to go off of so to speak.<br><br>Thanks for the compliment on the bike!
true, a new FD is really tricky esp. those cage inner design. however, i got the previous shimano FD-TZ31 48T in my touring design bike. this FD is relatively new generation d&eacute;railleur, and seemed only suitably for larger crankset above 48T. made more tricky is while i adjusting, seemed this factory issued FD designed half gear shifting. i tried bending FD-TZ31's cage to make it working with smaller crankset rings. i later on got a gift from my local bicycle parts supplier, the gift FD performed a lot better on smaller crankset rings (it is 42/34/24T, sorry i previously post as 44T, wrong memory). the gift FD works great, and it was not in current market, designed pretty &quot;old fashioned&quot;, i could see H, L screw adjusting by under metal piece, as it was easy to tell how derailleur works. and i usually change the L screw while i pushing the d&eacute;railleur outward, prevent the L screw suffer too much pressure, causing two sides of screw to bend and + hole to go out shape. most of all, i like the old fashion type of wire fixing bolt, it was designed a bit like old fashion C brake securing wiring holes. <br>finally, your explanation is a lot of more clearer on step by step and particularly on wiring fixing part. i skipped on this step, but i could see adjusting wire tension also affect a lot on how FD works. FD adjustment task is easy to see, but hard to make it really work well by its own particular d&eacute;railleur, crankset, wiring combination. <br>cheers, hope you'll have more time on posting more :)
Very cool they gifted you a derailleur! I'm glad it's working well for you.<br><br>You are very correct in that making a derailleur work well with everything can be difficult. Different setups require some tweaking for the best results. Things like height and rotational angle are pretty straightforward however wire tension affects FD adjustment a lot! <br><br>The part about indexing (wire tension) is more of a starting point then anything. Sometimes it takes a bit of messing around to get the FD to shift between chainrings quickly and smoothly.<br><br>
I think it's important to point out your sources for this. The Park Tool guide for this (http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments) has clearly been used as a basis. Credit to you for make what is quite a dry article a bit more easygoing, and for adding some very clear original photos. I'm not trying to call you out here, it's just that without quoting your source, it looks a bit like you're trying to pass it off as your own, which doesn't do you any favours.
Yes, you are correct. Thank you for reminding me!<br><br>I put a note at the bottom of the intro giving credit to Park Tool.<br><br>I purposely didn't even look at their's when writing this but since that guide is what I used to learn this process a few months ago it's not surprising they came out very similar!
excellent tutorial. i don't know much about fixing my bike, but this was super. You should definitely do more!
Thank you very much! If I have some extra time I will try and do other tutorials on general bike maintenance.

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