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How-To Repair Dead Lego Mindstorm LCD

How-To Repair Dead Lego Mindstorm LCD
So, your good old Lego Mindstorm display went dead?  What a drag!  Now what?

Well, I found some info on the net which brought my Lego Mindstrom LCD back to life.  Problem was, the fix didn't last for long.  So, in this instructible I'll discuss the conventional wisdom, plus, my own finding to help you bring back your Lego brick back to life.

For reference, here is the link to the original post: http://blogs.wsd1.org/etr/?p=495  This post has some good info and is worth reading.  However, their "fix" is to simply re-solder the LCD caps inside the brick.  Seemed strange to me that re-soldering ceramic surface mount caps would make a difference.  But, I must say, it did work the first time I tried it.  This fix lasted for about three months.  Then, the LCD started flickering and fading  again.

Since my Mindstorm's display was failing again I decided to perform a better fix by replacing the goofy caps.  This "better" fix only lasted about a week.

There must be something else going on with the display besides those caps.

Upon close inspection, I believe the true cause of the display problems is not the caps at all, but instead is the LCD connector ribbon cable.  I think that fooling / re-soldering  the caps simply flexes the ribbon cable which gets the display working again.  However, overtime, the ribbon cable comes loose again.

Well, anyway, below are a bunch of pictures that should help you get your Mindstorm back up and running again, one way or another.  Oh, and standard disclaimer here - do this repair at your own risk.  You could make matter worst for your brick.

 
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Step 1Dissaembly

Dissaembly
«
  • 1 Screws.png
  • 2 Cover.JPG
  • 3 Cover_Removed.JPG
  • 4 LCD_Removed3.JPG
  • 4 LCD_Removed2.JPG
There are just four screws that hold the Mindstorm together.  Remove the four screws inside the battery compartment and pull / pry the white top half away from the bottom base. 

The hardest part of this whole repair process is separating the LCD / PCB from the Mindstorm.  The PCB fits tightly on locator pins and the LCD is stuck down with double face tap.

Don't be shy, that LCD and circuit board gotta come out!  However, don't be too rough either - the LCD ribbon cable is delicate.
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25 comments
May 24, 2012. 5:49 AMbinary_man_1010 says:
Can't you ask for a sample? even just paying for shipping isnt bad.
Jan 9, 2012. 4:20 AMpillopaolo says:
Hi all,

VERY GOOD NEWS!

Just call Lego Customer Service, they will replace the Intelligent Brick for FREE.

The have admitted it is a common problem due to a bad design of the product and they replace the brick EVEN if the standard warranty period is expired (I bought my brick in 2007, now it is 2012!)

Sorry to interrupt this interesting and challenging project.

Ciao
Paolo
Feb 9, 2012. 10:20 PM2ndPSP says:
Thank you so much for telling me this. I've been hanging around this topic for nearly a year looking for updates on repair techniques and it never even occurred to me to call customer support.

A three minute phone call got me a replacement ordered. Thanks again.
Dec 30, 2011. 9:01 PMlamikam says:
Does Lego Corp have any sort of repair service? Or, is there any 3rd party that does repairs that you know of?
Dec 31, 2011. 1:07 PMlamikam says:
Hmmm, I'll take a look. The rest of the board looks fairly well-buit. It is a shame that they used such a cheapo connector. The price of Lego stuff never really goes down much. I can't justify spending $100 just for a spare part.
Jun 8, 2011. 2:47 PMBS Kustomz says:
i rubbed mine with the handle of a plastic X-mods screw driver and it works fine... FOR NOW lol better than it sitting there and beeping
Aug 1, 2011. 8:39 PMmstokes3 says:
I have just purchased some conductive tape from Digi-Key for an exorbident price. Here's the link:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=M970312-ND&x=10&y=15
When I receive it, I'll test it. I'm pretty sure it'll work (based on the spec sheet). I'll let y'all know. I apparently have several to fix here.
Aug 2, 2011. 10:36 AMmstokes3 says:
Actually, no. The tape is only conductive in the Z dimension. The particles of conduction are spaced far enough apart to allow tracks with a minimum distance of 0.4mm. There are a lot of tracks but they are guaranteed to be separated by this distance. Time will tell. I'll let y'all know.
Sep 27, 2011. 11:57 AMphoppel says:
Any word yet on the tape? If it works, I could sure use some to repair an NXT brick for the school Lego League team.

Thanks, Pat
Nov 22, 2011. 8:05 AMluca_crema says:
Hi,
any news about this approach?
Nov 22, 2011. 10:40 AMluca_crema says:
the daughterboard seems very simple but the schematic does not show the LCD part number; it seems a 12-pin lcd, while the "alibaba" part you were looking for is 14-pin (from the photograph)

as you see in the documentation LCD is 100x64dots 26x40.6mm area
3V supply + 9V driving voltage 

http://mindstorms.lego.com/upload/contentTemplating/MindstormsOverview/otherfiles/2057/LEGO%20MINDSTORMS%20NXT%20Hardware%20Developer%20Kit%283%29_7A0CF630-CCE5-4AAF-91FA-D1E7C911817C.zip

clearly, by replacing the LCD with the same part will only pospone the problem in time....

we need a "lateral" engineering idea

luca

PS: flexing the ribbon cable I myself can fix or get the problem , just like you did; the problem is really not in the soldering
Nov 24, 2011. 2:47 PMluca_crema says:
"If I ever replace the ribbon cable I would first cut some relief into that plastic.":

I'd try this, since there is a particular pressure point on the ribbon cable that makes everything work perfectly.
Please did you find it easy to remove the LCD from the plastic housing? Any advice?
Luca
Nov 26, 2011. 9:22 AMluca_crema says:
Jim,
looking better at the way to cut the plastic and back to the flex, I found that I have a different case than you, perhaps.

And I could solve the problem with a nail.

I tried to draw a sketch and upload it.

If you can see, it's better for me to explain.
The tape "invites" the flex ribbon to make a curve AGAINST the plastic.
The super-sharp bend is done "wrapping" against the PCB (down direction) and then curving upwards against the plastic.
With the nail I could push the tape to avoid the "super-bend" as you called it.

And now it works.

Probably one has to but something to avoid the superbend...

Luca.
Nov 26, 2011. 9:40 AMluca_crema says:
Figure with a proposal (tiny roll of paper ? ) in blue.

Luca.

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Author:jimk3038(www.ph-elec.com)
Founder of Powerhouse Electronics. For more info goto: www.ph-elec.com