How To String a Guitar

Step 8: Stringing your Guitar Part 3: Treble Strings

5.We now come to yet another confusing peg: the 3rd tuning peg.
For the last three strings (the treble strings) rather than measuring one tuning peg's distance, you're going to want to measure 1.5 tuning peg's distance.
So for the 3rd tuning peg, do what you did in 4. of the last step, but rather than moving your hand to the 5th tuning peg, or in this case, the 2nd tuning peg, move your hand to the 1st tuning peg and measure 1.5 tuning peg's distance from there.
Tighten the TREBLE strings by turning the pegs AWAY from the top of the headstock, in other words, to the RIGHT.

Do the same with the next two strings.

AND FOR THE TREBLE STRINGS, YOU ARE GOING TO WANT 5-6 WRAPS AROUND THE TUNING PEGS (see last picture for clarification)
(People will have different opinions about this, so be sure to give input.)

Keep the bottom-most wraps of the treble strings below the edge of the tuner holes to avoid creating a kink, which could break the string.

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arionisa says: Apr 9, 2009. 3:24 PM

A few things I have found over the years. 1. Especially if you are going to be playing "for real" in a short period you do NOT want to loosen all the strings. Do one string at a time, start to finish. The tuning of the strings depends upon the tension on the neck. If you loosen all the strings, put on new ones, then start tuning, what happens is that with every string you tune, more tension gets put on the neck, bowing it, and every string you have already tuned goes flat. It can take between 3-7 tunings before they all stay in tune doing it that way. Better if you do each string by itself, remove the low E, put the new one on, tug a few times and tune, tug a few more times and tune again, then move to the "A" and repeat until you've done all the strings. At this point, get your heaviest gauge pick and "hammer" a few chords, then re-tune and repeat. It takes about 1/2 the time of replacing all strings at once then trying to get them all to stay tuned. I have done this a number of times just hours before a concert and had no trouble with my guitar (6 or 12 string) going out of tune on me even after an hour of playing. 2. In step 3 you mention putting strips of paper under the saddle. While that would work just fine for an electric ... or for an electric acoustic when plugged in, it will reduce the overall volume and tonal quality when playing straight acoustic. The saddle is what transfers the vibration of the strings to the bridge/bracing and thus to the soundboard. Strips of paper, being soft and cushiony (compared to the bone ((quality guitars)) or hard plastic ((not so quality guitars)) of the saddle) tend to absorb and muffle the vibration of the strings and can make a great guitar sound like a cheap-o. Better to buy a new saddle (they're not that expensive) and carefully, VERY carefully, sand it down to where it needs to be. If you can't afford even the small cost of a new saddle, then once you have your slivers of paper, soak them cyanoacrylate (superglue) and attach them to the saddle (try not to attach your fingers while you are at it). The super glue will thicken them up a bit, so when you are done you will have to (VERY carefully) sand them back down to the proper height. The hardened cyanoacrylate will transfer vibration almost as good as bone saddle will and you won't lose/muffle the sound the way you would with just plain strips of paper. Other than those few minor things, I love your post, although I was always taught 2-3 wraps for all strings ... then again, I have always guessed at where to start to get the right number of wraps and have had anywhere from 1 (low E) to 10 (high E) and never really noticed a lot of difference. With your post, I can now get a consistent number of wraps every time, something I have never accomplished in over 20 years.

texaslady in reply to arionisaJun 12, 2010. 10:37 PM

I'm 72, and eggshell portrait artist and painter. But am going to give this a try. thanks for all. Texaslady