Since I don't have the expensive tilt-shift lens and I don't have enough time to make my own lens for the miniature effect, I experimented on some stock photos I have via Photoshop CS4 instead. It's quite easy and it brings you the exact effect you want. Miniature effect has been a popular medium used in commercials lately. But anyway, to get an idea, some cool tilt-shift photography can be seen here.
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Signing UpStep 1: Choosing the Right Photo
Not all photos can give the right miniature effect. When choosing photos one must remember the following:
1) Choose a picture that was taken from a afar.
2) It is also advisable to choose an image not only that it was taken from afar but rather on an elevated level like you're on 4th or 5th floor of a building taking city streets down below. A good perspective is always a key point.
3) Most of the time, cars, buildings and trees are the best subjects although if you want to take pictures of people, just make sure that there's an element in the picture that would make them look like plastic toy models, for example a building or at least a few cars, trees any structure.
For this tutorial I chose one of my favorite miniature effect subject, trains. Take note that I chose a photo that was taken a floor higher than the subject.

















































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you can read about it here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scheimpflug_principle
Instead, it is always better to go to "Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Hue/Saturation" and "Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Curves." This latter method creates adjustment layers which have exactly the same effect, but the advantage is they can be double-clicked in the Layers panel later and modified, without compounded loss to image quality, and they can be turned on and off any time.
The only reason for expressing my concern is that there isn't any disadvantage to the Adjustment Layer method, and it indoctrinates new Photoshop users into using professional best-practices.
by the way, is this near shaw?
http://tiltshiftmaker.com/
With this it might make some of the pics really interesting. Thanks.
You're wanting to detach the camera from the photo, whereas I'm trying to burrow the camera into the photo. e.g., If the above photo were a model, I would be taking my photo in between the two trains, or at least looking THROUGH the railing.
I would easily agree that in BOTH cases, perspective is particularly important.
- The point of the blur is so that things too close or too far from the point of focus would blur out. For example, in the 4th image, the people on the side of the rail are rather in focus even though the intent was to focus on the street [bikeway? walkway?] below. you could always get the blur tool out and just blur them out a smidgen and it will add to the picture.
- The vertical fade of the blur is good on the 2nd image, but on the 3rd image, since it's a bit of a wide angle lens, you'll want to blur the left and right sides a bit, too. Perhaps in this case, instead of the reflected gradient, you'd probably use 2 or 3 radial gradients side to side. Or do it by hand. :)
A good rule of thumb when wanting to achieve this effect is look at how 'far' the focal point is, and make sure everything closer or farther gets blurred, with more blur the farther back/closer up it is.
Author, you hit the nail on the head about the saturation! I just over HDR'd [which led to some oversaturation] an image I applied this effect to, and it made the image though I didn't know why. Now I know! :)
(not a reference to "look at this amaaayyyyyzing crocodile")
Nice work!