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How to Adapt a Door Viewer "Fish-eye Lens" on to a Full-size Camera

How to Adapt a Door Viewer "Fish-eye Lens" on to a Full-size Camera
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We've seen tutorials on this website that show you how an inexpensive door viewer can be used as a fish-eye lens on a simple point and shoot digital camera, but what if you want to try the effect on a camera with a full-size lens? This Instructable shows you how you can use an inexpensive plumbing part to make an adapter for the end of a camera lens with a diameter of approximately 49-55mm (or roughly 2 inches) - such as those on a "bridge" camera (an advanced point & shoot model that has many functions similar to a DSLR, but without a removable lens, mirror, and reflex system) or DSLR camera. This can also be used on manual-focus film cameras.

CAUTION: Even though the final step in making this adapter is to add a felt buffer to reduce the risk of scratching the lens, you will want to be careful when using the adapter. It happens that this particular model of camera has about a 1/8th-inch plastic border around the glass lens and the adapter rests mainly on this border, rather than the lens. Depending on your model of camera, the adapter ring may be seated on the glass. As a precaution, use a UV filter or similar functional filter to protect the lens, especially since a bridge camera cannot have its lens removed. At the very least, do not push the adapter against the lens and slide it around to adjust its position; rather, cap it gently over the lens and keep it in place when taking pictures. (See Step 7 for notes on using this adapter.) I assume no responsibility for damaged equipment.
 
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Step 1Materials and Tools Required

Materials and Tools Required
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The basic materials for this project can be obtained at a hardware or department store for under $20.

Materials

- 1 Door viewer, available at any hardware store from about $5 to $12 in cost
- 1 Plastic plumbing reducer coupling (see picture) that will fit on the end of your camera lens and fit the door viewer - in this example, the wide end of the reducer has a 2-inch exterior diameter, while the long, narrow end has an exterior diameter of 3/4 of a inch
- 1 Scrap of felt (or similar soft material) at least 3-inches by 3-inches square
- A strip of cloth (such as flannel) or paper towel for padding

Tools

- 1 hacksaw or coping saw with fine teeth
- An indelible marker with a fine point
- Ruler
- 1 Thick rubber band (such as used for broccoli)
- Scissors
- Contact cement or a similar multi-purpose glue, safe for use on plastic
- Various files, sandpaper, or a sanding block
- Utility knife (optional)

And If You Have Access to Them...

- A bench-mounted vise
- A bench grinder or hand-held power grinder (e.g. Dremel with sanding disc)

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8 comments
Jun 9, 2010. 1:00 AMmastermakoko says:
can i use a 1,5 inch cpuling thingy for my sony handycam hcr hc17?
Jun 25, 2009. 11:22 AMizzyinsf says:
This is a very cool setup! I'm able to do a similar effect on my Panasonic DMC-FZ28 (18x superzoom) just by purchasing a 55mm lens cap ($3.49), drilling a 3/4" hole in the center and threading a peephole right into the lens cap. I fortified it with a little hot glue. I use a skylight filter, plus the "hood adapter" that came with my camera which adds about 1/4" of buffer zone between the fisheye setup and the lens. Works like a charm, and it's hands-free.
Jul 10, 2009. 6:54 AMmechimatic says:
You can get a P880 lens cap direct from Kodak here (although I don't know if it would still attach if you drilled into the spring buttons):
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/service/products/replacementParts.jhtml?camera=P880
You might be better off using a P880 lens adapter:
http://www.kodak.com/eknec/PageQuerier.jhtml?pq-path=263&pq-locale=en_US&cameraEkNumber=EKN030484&skuID=S29768&Visible=false&navCategory=EKN030484
Aug 4, 2008. 3:05 PMWeissensteinburg says:
Cool, the results remind me a lot of those from a Holga.
Aug 7, 2008. 2:23 AMalvincredible says:
yeahh!
Aug 4, 2008. 12:09 PMcodester says:
WOW!!!! I'm Impressed with the results!!

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