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Step 6Ceramic Capacitor and Resonator
Only two parts in the kit left to go, a total of 5 solder points, and we don't even have to worry about orientation. You're almost done.
The ceramic capacitor is very small, and has '104' written in letters you might not be able to see without a magnifying glass. The main thing here is that there are two legs. The other piece, the resonator, is bigger, has '20MHz' written on the side, and has three legs.
The two-legged ceramic capacitor goes into the board in the spot marked 'C1'. There is no orientation; you cannot put in it backwards, so run the legs through the holes, pull it all of the way down, and bend the legs outward to hold it in place.
The three-legged resonator goes into the spot marked 'Q1'. There is no orientation; you cannot put in it backwards, so run the legs through the holes. The legs are a little too short to bend, so just hold it in place with a finger, and flip the board over so it rests on the resonator with the three legs poking through the board.
Solder these five legs, and trim them short with a wire clipper.
The ceramic capacitor is very small, and has '104' written in letters you might not be able to see without a magnifying glass. The main thing here is that there are two legs. The other piece, the resonator, is bigger, has '20MHz' written on the side, and has three legs.
The two-legged ceramic capacitor goes into the board in the spot marked 'C1'. There is no orientation; you cannot put in it backwards, so run the legs through the holes, pull it all of the way down, and bend the legs outward to hold it in place.
The three-legged resonator goes into the spot marked 'Q1'. There is no orientation; you cannot put in it backwards, so run the legs through the holes. The legs are a little too short to bend, so just hold it in place with a finger, and flip the board over so it rests on the resonator with the three legs poking through the board.
Solder these five legs, and trim them short with a wire clipper.
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