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How to Brew Beer

Step 7Drain Wort into fermenting bucket

Drain Wort into fermenting bucket
Open up the tap and drain the Wort into the Fermenting bucket.
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4 comments
Jul 11, 2007. 12:52 AMpsi3000 says:
WTF are you doing? I don't see a hose on that Mash Tun leading down into the fermenter so that it doesn't aerate, add excessive oxygen, to the wart. You should know better when brewing from grain!!! Shame on you, and your telling other people to do this. Their beer will have a very offset flavor!!
Apr 10, 2008. 9:39 AMdimhof78 says:
PSI... That's exactly what I thought when I saw this... STOP IT!!! You're killing the beer!!! Where are the brewing police when you need them! Plus why are you using Gelatin in your beer??? Clarification? Yeah, your "Beer" will be clear, but it will be stripped of a lot of the flavor...
Apr 15, 2008. 4:54 AMt.rohner says:
Hi psi and dimhof, moaner doesn't brew exactly as i do it. Well, i read some(almost all) books available on the topic, before i started to build and buy my setup. I know about the possible effects of hot side aeration, but only from reading about it. I never tried to do it deliberately to see how much it takes to ruin a otherwise perfect batch, have you? Or did you start with HSA and then reduced it? Otherwise it's only hearsay. I know some guys around here, they use a centrifuge to lauter their mash. I'd never do it that way, because of hot side aeration and the filtration is far from perfect. As a next thing i'm too lazy to transfer the mash into the centrifuge and then back into the mash tun to add some sparge water and back into the centrifuge. They end up with a murky wort when the boiling starts. They actually started with this centrifuge thing, because their lautering took very long. This was because they milled their grains with a household grain mill. It was much too fine and the husks are shredded. Lately they come to our brewery to get their grains crushed on our MaltMill. But with all their "wrongdoings", the resulting beer comes close to ours and it's definitely better than most commercially available stuff. I read scientific books about cheesemaking, because i wanted to try it once. (it has yet to happen...) Then i saw how they make cheese here in a small hut in the alps. Wood fired without running tap water or electricity. But then, this guy had some 40 years of experience with his rustic setup. The cheese he made tasted fantastic and had good keeping qualities.(that's why they started to make cheese) The way he did it had a couple of flaws, compared to what i read in the scientific books. But the resulting product told another story.
Feb 22, 2010. 8:48 AMjp_pianoguy says:
The fines (cause of the "murk") become filtered by cycling back the first few quarts over the grain bed.  The grain bed becomes a filter bed and filters out the fine particles from the inefficient grinding.

In the boil phase, the addition of a very small amount of irish moss helps to coagulate haze forming proteins.  It is thus important to leave behind a small bit of wort because it is full of junk (hops particles, coagulated proteins), known as the "trub".

That being said, I wouldn't use a centrifuge either.  Seriously though, would it kill you to invest in a little bit of tubing to get the liquid to fill up from the bottom of the container.

Oct 1, 2009. 11:00 PMbjornjacobsen says:
Hi there,
a good instructable for sure.
The concern about splashing the wort only relates to while it is hot.
It is called "hot side aeration".
http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter16-2.html
after the wort is cooled, using an immersion or plate chiller to chill rapidly or NoChill in a cube over night, you will need to aerate the wort to give the yeast ideal conditions.
thanks
Bjorn

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