After Many years of use it gave out. Here i took it apart and show you the tools i will be using.
- sharp knife i used a head knife.
-pricking irons for makring stitch holes since we will be sewing this by hand
Step 1: Cutting Buckle Piece
Cut out and 18mmx40mm piece of leather. This will be for the buckle piece.
In the second photo I skive the edges where I will sew later on so its not so thick. The leather I chose is on the thicker side at 7oz
Step 2: Edge Work
Next we take some gum trag or water and saddle soap and apply to to edges with friction from canvas to get a nice slick look and feel.
Step 3: Decorative Crease OPTIONAL
This is an optional step and is purely aesthetic
Step 4: Strap Piece
Cut a 18mm wide x 130mm long piece of leather for the strap. Stick it into the hat where the old plastic peice was and mark how deep it needs to go with a scratch awl.
Step 5: Glue
Glue the buckle piece closed with the buckle in place. If you use a contact cement use protection VOC mask.
Step 6: Holes for Buckle on Strap
Next find the correct punch diameter for your buckles prong. Then I used the old plastic pieces existing holes to give me an even spacing. Mark with scratch awl.
OPTIONAL STEP - Crease
Step 7: Punch Through
Step 8: Sew the Buckle Secure
Next get your Pricking irons/Stitching Chisels/Fork (Ha!) and mark right under neath the buckle so that it stays in place.
Step 9: Sewing
Next we get our thread and wax it with bees wax. I'm using Linen thread and sewing at nine stitches per inch. Then iI i clamp it into my stitching pony and saddle stitch. For help with saddle stitching I recommend purchasing a copy of The Art of Hand Sewing Leather
Step 10: Last Minute and Optional Step
I decided to line the strap piece to give the backside a finished look as opposed the the rough back of the leather.
Apply glue to both pieces of leather, wait a few minutes for glue to dry then tack together. Make sure you glue the strap to a larger piece of leather then trim the excess off. It is much easier than trying to match to equal pieces of leather perfectly
Step 11: Sewing the Strap to Lining.
After the glue is set take your wing dividers and open them to 3.5mm. Then drag them along the edge to mark a ling for you stitching. Then grab your pricking irons and punch holes through the line you marked with your wing divider.
Step 12: Back to Sewing.
Grab your thread and wax again if using linen thread. Then Saddle stitch.
Step 13: Final
Put them in the Hat where the old plastic pieces were and just sew right through!
Looks better than original!