How to Build a Knife

So you want to make a knife?

I'm not here to dissuade you (rather, I'd like to encourage you), but let me first get this out of the way: knife making is a slow, delicate, painstaking, multi-faceted, sometimes frustrating process. It requires skill in metalworking, woodworking and design, patience, attention, and general levelheadedness. You have to take your time if you want to do things right, otherwise your experience will be sub-optimal. Even I have trouble with this sometimes, as this project will, itself, show you, and some of my past projects will blatantly scream...*wink.* Don't be frustrated if your first project doesn't come out the way you want it. All good things take practice, and you may make several knives--or several dozen--before you make one you really, truly have no beefs about. But it's good fun, too. You can do it. Don't worry.

Okay, so you still want to make a knife. Read on.

Step 1: First thing's first...design the blade!

The design of your knife is the single most important element of its construction. In my designs I try to find the best compromise between functionality and looks. I abhor inefficient fantasy designs and have a profound dislike of Persian-style blades--you know, the kind shaped like a banana--but if you like a specific design, go for it.

First, plot out the blade and handle shape on graph paper. Try to get it as close to actual-size as you can. The less changing you have to do to the design once it's on the steel, the better.

Now you need to decide how to attach the handle to the blade. There are three common methods of doing this: a full tang, a partial tang, or a through-tang. A full tang has the same profile as the handle of the knife, and the meat of the handle is formed by two slabs of wood (scales) to either side of the tang; most good knives are made this way. The knife I'm making here is a full tang knife. A partial tang is the most inconspicuous of the three and, in my view, the hardest to make. In this design the tang is a rod that protrudes back from the blade and is completely hidden inside the handle, secured with a rivet or two. Japanese swords and sushi knives are made this way, though the latter is secured with a cuff rather than rivets. A through-tang knife is similar to the partial tang except that the tang extends all the way through the handle to be secured by a nut or by peening on the other end. Ka-bars and most turned-handled knives are made this way. Choose whatever best suits your project. There is plenty of info on the web if you're not going to make a full-tang knife, though I recommend it for a first project.

Comments

[baneling-bust]

I know that using motor oil is most common but can you use olive oil instead or is the whole point to let the carbon from the motor oil soak into the blade as it is changing state?
great instructible by the way!

[Basta]

I've used canola oil before, so yes. I've heard people talk about carbon leeching during the quench, but I really don't see a difference. With the correct steel gaining or losing a little carbon (if this even occurs, which I'm not sure of) will not noticeably change the blade's properties. Using oil is more about controlling the speed of the quench than altering the chemical properties of the steel.

[ShadeStride]

You are correct when you say the quench is more about controlling the rate of cool down. The carbon leeching is negligible. Peanut oil, motor oil, transmission fluid, those are all good quenchants. On a side note, most of these oils should be preheated to around 120 degrees so they are thin enough to release the vapor that is created by the work piece, this allows the fresh quenchant to stay in contact with the piece to cool it down at the rate needed. If you start off with a good steel and control your heat you shouldn't lose enough carbon during forging to decrease the stability of the steel. Msg me for more info.

[MakeItWithJason]

Thanks for the instructable. I used a few tips by Wayne Goddard when making my sword, but I didn't fire mine--mine is more or less just for looks.

[Reiff]

Very good instructables and knife. You could probably sell these for a lot of money.

[Jestersteelsmith]

Hi basta. Your knife is beautiful and I was wondering if you would let me base one of mine off it (loosely).
I am a blade smith so I don't do the same processes as you do with your stock removal methods, so I was wondering if you wanted to try black smithing. It's allot more freeing than stock removal and you can even get most of the bevels on your blade before grinding. I am trying to make very cheep forge setups for people and if you would like, I will share my knowledge.
-jestersteelsmith

[Basta]

I don't think I can claim exclusive ownership of a knife design! So yeah, go ahead, in fact I'd be honored. I do actually forge knives and other things--it's been a while since I published this thing and I haven't thought to document any of my forgings, but hopefully some day I'll post another on forging blades. I'm running a very small gas forge right now, need to upsize.

[Jestersteelsmith]

Actually, I was planning on making an instructable for a large forge in this next week, I need one too because mine is an 8" diameter firebowl. I would be likewise honored if you would use it. I am making two designs, one for 5$ and one for 20$. My overall goal is to make an entire forge setup for 20$, including anvil and tools. My designs are both going to be for swords, but you could easily adjust them for your own purposes. And I noticed that you used O1 steel, which is good steel, but if I might make a suggestion 5140 spring steel is easy to come by (truck leaf springs are made with it and a broken one from a junk yard is 20$) and if you plan on making big bowies, it is the steel for the job. It isn't the best at holding an edge but you can fix that with an edge quench, plus it was designed to support tricks so it won't break. If you want more proof of how awesome the steel is, look up "Gurkha kukri" they are made of this stuff and they are downright legendary. They have even helped in both world wars. I love that steel and it is cheep. If you want a smaller knife, try a wood rasp or a old file

[zombskii]

I'm wanting to make a knife (Or things along that line, bladey things) but not for use, only for display, would i still need to heat treat them?

[Basta]

I'm a purist, and not too much of a fan of non-functional things for display, so I would personally heat treat anything I could. However, some knives have been historically made of unhardened iron or bronze, so it's not a stretch. Many modern wallhangers are even made of aluminum (much lighter and easier to work with, though completely useless as a functional blade). If you're just using it as a wallhanger I see no need for your to heat treat it, provided you're still happy with the idea of a non-functional tool.

[Navybrad123]

how about you come to my house and you can show me all this in person. i would love to learn all this. i dont have a grinder or anything :( you did great work though. how did you learn all this stuff?

[Jestersteelsmith]

If you don't have thoes things, you could try your hand at primitive blades. They are just blades made with a forge and hammers and other hand tools, no power tools. They aren't shiny but if you like the kind of fallout, or madmax post-appocolyptic looks, you will like them.

[mamajr96]

Which kind of flap wheel are you using for the edge, this kind
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DAFE1D2410-2-Inch-1-Inch-4-Inch/dp/B00413QCZY/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1353337633&sr=1-3

or this

http://www.roarksupply.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/flap-disc1a.jpg

[Basta]

The second one, the kind that fits on an angle grinder.

[mamajr96]

and also around what grit do you recommend for the bevel?

[Basta]

For shaping the bevel? A coarse one, like 80 or 120. Then work up to higher grits by hand when finishing.

[mamajr96]

ok thanks for the help and great instructable.

[mayday12]

I used some of these guidelines to make 2 hatchets and it turned out well.

[Im a jalapeno]

Hey Basta great instructable. I live in Harrisonburg Va, and was wondering where I could get the appropriate steel for this project? And also where to get leather for the sheath? Any help would be grately appreciated.

[Im a jalapeno]

Hey Basta great instructable. I live in Harrisonburg Va, and was wondering where I could get the appropriate steel for this project? And also where to get leather for the sheath? Any help would be grately appreciated.

[Goldensahara00]

Left the picture out, here it is.

[Goldensahara00]

Thanks for the amazing write up, really helped me with the finer points of the process. Everything went well, I was concerned I didn't get the steel hot enough in the heat treating/quelching phase, but after sharpening the blade it was either already very hard to start with (I know it was) or I got it close enough. I used a piece of left over steel from a project I did with my jeep wrangler, I weld and fabricate a good bit on that scale, so it was cool to do something a little bit smaller. The blade came out well, I used 3/16 steel (high quality US stuff I got from a local guy) but not sure the #. I am super happy with the knife, and while I took a few short cuts and know a ton of things I would fix or change, over all I am happy, and the knife is VERY sharp. I designed it with a saw edge on the back half (works mediocre) and a paracord handle, thinking, if I ever need to fashing a spear out of it, it would be super easy to cut and bind it with just whats on and part of the knife already. Going to be used for my outdoor/camping/offroading outings, and just to be something cool that no one else has. Thanks again!

PS. I could have put a more defined half edge on it but, sort of like it the way it came out. it tapers a lot more than it appears. And yes that is a duct tape sheath, only took me 20 minutes to make, complete with a belt loop and a strap to hold the knife. Plus keeps the blade dry. and was FREE. actually I didn't spend a dime on this whole project which was nice.

[wardog0]

umm i cant seem to find any carbon steel other than 1018 and 1006 will those work?

[letstormdufield]

Get a leaf spring from a car or truck, that will work

[tdavis24]

Those are low-carbon steels. They can't be hardened. Look online for 1084 steel, it's eutectoid, which basically boils down to making it the easiest of all steels to heat treat at home. A higher alloy steel like O1 requires longer soak times at specific temperature to get your moneys worth out of it. I can tell you where to look for steel if you PM me.

[Jestersteelsmith]

Thoes are brittle. Leaf springs are good for bigger knifes like Bowles or kukris.

[Jestersteelsmith]

*Bowies
Freakin autocorrect

[soldeir 9]

although....this is NOT forging.............

[soldeir 9]

this is amazing! this instructible got me hooked on blacksmithing! i made a diagram of a small blacksmith (building). ill post a pic :D thank you SOO much! this is easily the BEST knife smithing insttructible! this should be featured...

[wardog0]

can i use an old machete from walmart to for the steel?

[Basta]

Nope. That stuff is crappy stainless, and can't be hardened. Invest in good steel. Try mcmaster.com.

[torpedo22]

A great place for Purple heart knife handle blanks is the Exotic wood group. And for O1 carbon tool steel is Metals Depot.

I love this tutorial its exactly what I was looking for.

[cocopenguin21]

Thanks much for the metal site, was scouring the internet with no promising results before.

[mayday12]

Basta, I used your technuiqe to make some throwing hatchets. I dont know how to sheath them. ;(

[The Rambler]

This is the best knife making instructable I've read. I just posted this to Gentlemint.com because I can't think of a more manly thing to master than knife making.

[witham25]

You can use a chainsaw bar the middle is good for knife making and some shops will just give you the broken ones they have.

[rwintersgill]

what would be a good width for the knife to be because i don't have a model to work off

[sonofstone]

im in the process of making a knife, but i dont have a nice polishing machine, so it will be done with sanding paper in 1000 grit, i dont think it will shine nicely, but since its more or less of a hunter costume prop, it matters not that much, will post pictures when done

[Basta]

Great! Polishing isn't necessary, and I prefer a satin sanded finish most of the time, especially if it's blued--there's a lot that you can do wrong in polishing. Do post pics.

[Jesse germs]

I can't seem to locate any 01 carbon steel. There are many steel suppliers in my area offering many types of steel, none however are listed as 01 carbon steel. Is there another name for the steel your using? Or are there other types of steel I could use in place for this instructable? Dude i am way excited to get started on this project, I am a long time knife admirer and amateur collector. I am also a proficient carving artist( antler, bone, wood, stone) so I figured I'd combine two passions here. Just wish I knew more about types of steel and the science behind this. Hopefully my question isn't a repeat of an older post, just didn't really wanna sort through the 800+ comments on this.

[Basta]

O1 isn't the only carbon steel in the world--you have options. I'd simply go into a supplier and ask for carbon steel, and if they stock it you'll get several options. The 10-series steel is fine for making knives; 1055 and 1095 and such. The two numbers on the end indicate the carbon content of the steel--higher number, higher steel. I recommend 1065-1085 for the average knife. If you can talk to somebody who works with a supplier, though, do it!
I've also used a lot of 5160 and it's a joy to work with. That's your basic leafspring steel, but you can buy it in bars as well. All of this is oil quench, and make sure you use this kind of steel for your first knife. Things can go wrong faster with a water or air quench.
If still in doubt, you can always try scrap steel. I think I mention in the guide (it's been a long time now, forgive me) that you can use most files or saw blades to make knives. I've picked up lots of dull files made of good steel at flea markets, and turned them around into nice knives. Avoid cheap files--and I mean dirt cheap--because these can sometimes be case-hardened mild steel.

[Jesse germs]

Awesome! Thanks man, can't wait to get started. I'll post pics when I'm done! Any thought about maybe creating an instructable for A partial tang or a through tang?

[Basta]

Not with my current lack of a workspace--maybe in the future.

[roman wolf]

I just use old circuler saw blade's to make my knives

[sith, lord of funk]

did you have your own coal forge or did you have to make one and if so how did you make it.

[sith, lord of funk]

This is the first knife I'm making in my life so I hope that it turns out well. I'll post pics when its done. One question is a fire hot enough to use instead of a forge cause I don't have one?

[rstumph]

Process, the handle is nice

[rstumph]

yes sir this instructable is the bomb the best, the other one leave or miss a step in the prices for inst-ens i did not know the annealing process on the other so id make a few knives and there not relay sturdy cues i did not anneal, ill heat up to a orange then quench in iol
thanks Basta

[rstumph]

ok i read this instructable its a little confusing ok , the step need to be step by step for example, you harden the steel to a temperature a couple a times, in tell non magnetized then the blade is ready For Annealing After Annealing then you Quench it ok ... i really like it though . I Have AD/HD so thought id let you know cause i hate to go searching and end up missing a step or the knife looks, works crappy its really irritating. thank you for trying you did a good job.

[street_racer21]

hey. could you paint the knife with rustolium to keep it from rusting? and maybe make a cool design? because i found a peice of metal on the back of a roto tiller with some deep rust spots but ive grinded half of them out. the rest of it was just rusty and paint. i was just starting to grind down the other sides rust spots but my grinder wouldnt start. (

[curious youth]

LOL im going to make a birdhouse.

[purplewg]

Just curious if a lawn mower blade would make a good knife blade? I don't mean the china stuff blades but good old USA made heavy duty blades.

[Basta]

Never tried it myself but to my knowledge they're made from good tool steel. They should work fine.

[hifatpeople]

They are like really rally hard to cut (although i haven't really tried cutting any other metal before) wore out a bench grinder on the lawn mower blade and broke an angle grinder on it. I'd try a plasma cutter.

[MR.builderguy]

all it takes is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$!!!!

[badideasrus]

you could try annealing the steal, since you're going to temper it latter...

just heat it up reall hot, cherry red? then bury it in sand or ash, or some insulator, then let it cool. this will make the metal soft.

[MR.builderguy]

i am having trouble getting a strait bevel. any pointers?

[TheWaddleWaaddle]

I'm not the only one with One-Sock-Syndrome! Yes! My mom will be so proud!

-TheWaddleWaaddle

[DV Customs]

wow that looks dangerous, buffing a blade is the most dangerous part of making one. If that wheel grabs it going about 3,000 rpms it will throw it 2 houses away. and I notice you are holding a hand grinder with one hand and the blade with the other. I would recommend a small bench grinder and switch the wheel with a buffing wheel. But if you insist on a hand grinder, at least have a vice hold the machine so you can get 2 hands on the blade. just a thought.

[Basta]

I try to be careful with buffing above all else. If your concern is with the step you commented on, don't worry--I am using a bench grinder, but from the angle of the picture it might look like I'm using a handheld buffer. I have both hands on the blade.

[DV Customs]

No offense, please don't be offended, just hate to see people hurt.

[Basta]

Sorry if I sounded offended, I'm not! I should probably get more safety tips--as is, I learn an unhealthy amount of safety from experience--i.e. my recent corneal abrasion.

[DV Customs]

No problem, just thinking about the 8 stitches I got with no machine involved, and the time my glove got caught in my lathe and almost ripped my hand off. Lucky for fast reflexes, just lost my glove and busted couple fingures.

[AnarchistAsian]

wearing gloves? every machinist i've ever met has said that gloves are dangerous when using power tools or things like lathes...

[Chicken Spit]

Oh man, the bus mechanic I work with during school probably even sleeps with his blue nitrile disposable gloves. He wears them when he is opperating the metal lathe.

[Bowtie41]

That was the firstthing they taught me in tech. school.They showed us lots of pics of people missing fingers due to gloves and rings.it's still stuck with me for 30 years.I may burn my fingers from a hot part,but they are all still attatched!

[spenfisher12]

yup they would just pull your hand in

[The Ideanator]

Exactly. Same here.

[DV Customs]

I sent a picture of my glove along with some display stands, I keep it on a nail by my lathe for a reminder. lol

[AnarchistAsian]

haha

[DV Customs]

Yes they can be and I agree 100%. But when you're working with steel with sharp edges, the option to wear tight fitting gloves keep you from getting cut from material itself. My mistake back then was having my hand where it shouldn't have been. You learn from your mistakes.

[AnarchistAsian]

By the way, how did you get so good at making knives?

[DV Customs]

I guess every one excels at the things he loves to do. That with about forty years of dealing with them somehow. If you really like to build anything, all you have to do is shrink it down to knife size and don't skip on the tools as well as the materials. As we speak I'm in the negotiations of buying a new house/ shop so I can really get into it. Many people have made knives their entire life and never became any good, Some make a decent knife the 1st try, You have to have heart in what you do. So as I am done revamping my place to sell, I can relax and get back to the knives. I have a new idea of a design for a new forge. This way I can put out enough blades for my hobby and for my hobby to pay for it's self. Don't get me wrong, I'm not losing much, but consider leaper and electric. One to 2 sales a month at half appraisal don't take you over the top. Lucky I enjoy what I do, now all I have to do is sell for what they are worth and not just for more materials. Then one knife will feed a months worth of knives.

[AnarchistAsian]

cool, good luck For some reason, i can always build or machine something way better than i can draw it... Have you ever felt like that?

[DV Customs]

If you took a 3" square piece of steel, and made a 2" ball out of it, The time it took to machine it down, you may get the picture of ball done. Artist most likely feel the same about you. So you have worked with steel enough to make your piece, where as a artist went to school. Same,Same I find the really hard part is where you get writers block, Harder you try to imagine your new knife, the further it gets. When this happens I start to build display stands for my knives to add for a bonus. Table standing ones, glass door display for the people in need of a lock, ( kids ) also katana stands. Here are some assorted pictures of some stands mixed with some knives I did recently. I'll show you some display cases if you want, just let me know...

[DV Customs]

here the pictures I was talking about

[pj63]

Im just starting to look into making some knives and swords. I can HONESTLY say "You Are An Artist Sir".. Your work is a thing of Beauty... Thank You for sharing..... Phil....pj63

[z-man6233]

did you use "gun blue" on the knife with the blued blade?

[DV Customs]

Very good eyes.

[z-man6233]

was it hot or cold?

[The Ideanator]

Dude, what kind of steel is that with the wavy swirls all over it, and where can I get some?

[DV Customs]

That is Damascus steel, a mix of 1095 high carbon and 1020n nickle. forge welded and folded 512 times, that is why you see the waves due to the folds. look up my instructable, How to make a hidden tang knife and you'll see more. If you need more information on it theres many books and articles on it. there are many ways to due certain patterns but no 2 are alike. you can buy finished or unfinished knives on ebay or any knife store that sells custom knives. I sell them all the time on ebay. Look me up on ebay ir you like, or write me @ [e-mail] have a great day.

[spicymeatball]

theres a preetty good vieo  explaining damascus blades http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tAIGM9UvaM

[The Ideanator]

Ahh, no wonder I thought I had seen something similar. Is that stuff really as good as its reputation precedes? If I had money to spend, I would totally buy a few from you

[DV Customs]

Damascus can be some of the best blades around. The natural grin work in it can be as beautiful as a great piece of exotic wood. Each one is unique by it's self by not having a perfect match any where in the world. A properly made blade will run a R.C. of 58 to 60 which is dam hard, But at the same time you can bend one almost to a 90 degree and will not break due to the nickel content. There are many ways to fold and the billets to come out with certain patterns. Heat treated is certain solutions will give different colors as well as the depth of grain highlights. Will sharpen better than razor sharp, Will go through a 1" rope on a single pull. Even when dull, still cuts better than some due to the folds creating a micro serrated edge. There is so much to them that once your hooked on them it's like a bad habit , you will never get enough of. But BEWARE!!! there are many fakes being sold, many ways to etch plain steel to look the part, even if it was forge welded and folded, some people use junk steel and it will crack, snap, and even break in cold weather. We do have some of the best blades made right here in the U.S.A. As they become more popular, they will go down in price. I can give you some places to get true ones if you would like. Bring your check book, lol Most people that collect Damascus end up making their own. A few fire bricks, a torch, and a anvil&hammer. A good book would be Blade's Guide to making Knives by Joe Kertzman, or a dvd would be Basic Damascus by Ed Caffery. Either one will at least save you a bunch of money not buying fakes and junk. These will teach you simple questions to ask and things to look for. When your ready to buy, Let me know and I'll set you up with something you can afford. Take care and do a little research.

[The Ideanator]

You should make an I'ble on how to make Damascus steel. I would probably end up making something out of that before I bought anything.

[DV Customs]

You may want to try your hands at just making a knife from plain steel before attemping to make a Damascus billet for a blade. Making a blade from regular steel is a project in it's own and not every one can do it. Even if you did have the means of forge welding a Damascus billet, and did acomplish folding it hundreds of times. The proper heat treating would make your Damascus completly different than regular steel requiring higher grade tools and bits. You will need a complete line of carbide bits and cutters, not to mention the machines needed. One bit could cost you more than the knife itself. Even if you did have all types of Industrial machines and cutters, you need a way to get your billet up to aprox. 1800 degrees.

[AnarchistAsian]

nice, how dd you get that blade blue?

[AnarchistAsian]

what if you just wrapped cloth around the part of it you were holding? just a thought...

[imthatguy1125]

What type of coal forge did you use. Is it a DIY one.

[jcardenas4]

(removed by author or community request)

[shadow wave rider]

you can use stainless steel if you cant get carbon steel right?

[shadow wave rider]

how long did it take to cut with the hacksaw

[KyNaturalist4x4]

Great looking knife. However try to avoid paper, cardboard, and tape. Those are the 3 worst things to cut with a knife, they will dull and gum up your edge extremly quick. Similar to a chainsaw: you can cut logs all day long, but if you hit dirt the chain is dulled. A better way to test your edge without dulling it is to try and shave hair off your arm, but dont cut yourself.

[z-man6233]

i try to shave a little piece of y finger-nail off to test sharpness and the angle of the edge

[safian768]

haha LOL

[Draxis]

Amazing I'ble, great help, you have no idea how nice a guide like this is!

[robertthor]

 It's impossible to find the dang carbon steel in on the internet!

[oldanvilyoungsmith]

Google Kelly Cupples, he's where I buy steel.

Also, try googling Admiral steel, And Aldo (known as NJ Steel Baron). You can also buy a lot of different kinds from Jantz knifemaking. Expect to pay for your shipping though. If you have a friend that runs a business, see if you can get it shipped there. I got my order of 11 LBs of steel to go from $30 something for shipping, to $13 something. Just by having it shipped to a business instead of my house.

[Basta]

Whoa, seriously good job on those links. Kelly Cupples' prices look great, I just wonder what shipping to my side of the country would be like.

[miner69]

try an old tool file, they work

[picklepie159]

http://www.admiralsteel.com/products/blades.html

shipping is killer, though.
i like 1095 steel, because quencent for that is normal water, instead of complicated salted vegetable waste oil whatnot
plus, water doesn't burst into flames when you stick a 1095 into it
and ka-bars ar made of 1095

[Bowtie41]

MR.builderguy,
The chopping tool you made also works great on defatting/thiinig deer hides prior to tanning.Nice job!

And Basta....What can I say,Beautiful job!

LokiGnosis,that knife needs to be in a glass case in a showroom.Stunning!

[sabre]

How much was the steel? I'm looking at getting started in knife making and having a hard time finding a price to judge by.

[young skipper]

You can buy a somewhat soft steel from texas knife works.com. 440 is great for people just getting into it.

[Gstv.Inc]

you gonna need a belt grinder to
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/
look for KMG 2x72 is the most used for making knifes

[Basta]

when I bought it that hunk of steel in the picture was $35--but I got it for a steal from a bulk company. Go to McMaster.com and look at O1 tool steel--you can figure about 5 dollars American for a single knife blade, depending on the size.

[cocopenguin21]

The 01 steel on that site is cheaper than another site and is available in 3/16 but says it's already been annealed, do I anneal anyway or no?

[Basta]

It's not totally necessary if you're sure the steel has been annealed, if all you're doing is stock removal (no forging). I usually do it anyway for safety's sake, though, since you're hardening at that stage anyway and the forge/torch/campfire stays hot for a while.

[fishcake27]

Do you know anything about engraving or etching, if you do plz add it, thx

peace out

[fishcake27]

Thanks basta, im gona make my knife over thanksgiving break, it kinda looks like jay fisher's PJLT design. i'll post it when i get the chance, and whats the cheapest way to heat treat the blade (like to get it that hot)....

[Basta]

you can probably get a wood fire hot enough if you give4 it enough fuel and air. post pictures!

[fishcake27]

thx, srry i couldnt get back to you earlier. and my first try kinda failed so ima try again in the summer

[atomicturkey27]

so did you oil or finish the knife handle, or did you only buff it. I've heard both ways can work, I was just wondering.

[Basta]

I just buff it and then slap some floor wax on the wood

[MR.builderguy]

FLOOR WAX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!???????????????????????????

[atomicturkey27]

ok thanks. I ended up just putting on 2 coats of danish oil, that seemed to work

[knife maker]

This ible is quite good but there is an amazing one at this URL:


http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-cool-knife-out-of-scrap-metal-2/

Hope you like it!!!
:2)

[Basta]

That instructable is a clear plagiarism of this one. Thanks for letting me know about it, otherwise I wouldn't have noticed!

[MR.builderguy]

By the way, leafe springs are not for making knives; they are for crossbows.

[henster22]

Am still carving the knife.

Is takin ages

[henster22]

I am making a knife out of some scrap metal and now that i am at the heat treating process i am wondering why put it in motor oil and not water. Wont the motor oil just explode or catch fire if you put a boiling hot knife in to it???

[Basta]

It has to do with the cooling properties of water vs oil. Water quenches things very fast, causing a lot of stress to the metal, increasing likelihood of warping and breaking. Oil quenches slower, causing less stress. Some steels you can quench in a warm, salt water bath, but NEVER quench in cold unsalted water. Yes, the oil flares u a little and burns (see the picture), but it doesn't explode, and it goes out pretty much on its own. Be careful though!

[MR.builderguy]

DONT THROW WATER IN BURNING OIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[henster22]

My knife!!!

[MR.builderguy]

prison shank?

[henster22]

Yes i have just finished heat treating and will temper tomorrow. I didnt set fire to anything!!!!

[henster22]

i have just been vewing the heat hardening process and i have been thinking if when you harden the blade it becomes so brittle that if you dror it it will smash couldnt you just not sharpen the blade and after you have hardened it you can just knapp it like you kan do with flint or glass then once you have done that then you can temper it and it will look really cool!!!

Just a thought.
:2)

[henster22]

I have started to make a knife and am going to heat treat it in 10 minits!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Basta]

For the love of God be careful

[henster22]

Don't worry. ;2)

[Basta]

The glass thins is more of an analogy--the steel is still much stronger than glass. I've always been really careful handling steel after I've hardened it, so I'm not sure exactly how brittle it is....
I agree, a knapped steel knife would be kind of awesome! The problem is that steel has a very different internal structure than glass--while glass is very uniform and will break along a very predictable line of stress, steel (especially hardened steel) has a really coarse grain structure that breaks more like gravel-filled concrete than glass.

Maybe if we have a metallurgist here we can figure out some way to make it work, though....

[henster22]

Ow well it might work it was just a theroy.

[henster22]

This is my finished knife.
The handle looked crap and was really thin so i attached loads of rubber bands and string to it and put on a serrated edge. I also made a sheath out of metal pipe but it also looked horrible and had loads of sharp edges so I coved it in duct tape.
It is so sharp that I acidently sliced my thumb open to the bone and didnt realise until the next day when i had blood all over my bed and my thumb was hanging off.
I got it so sharp by using my method on my instructible on how to sharpen a knife with a nail file!!!

[Basta]

Good job! Except for the thumb thing. That's why I have a disclaimer.

[henster22]

Cool

[henster22]

Ooops i mean nail clipper

[MR.builderguy]

by the way, what would you call this style of knife?

[fellbaum]

a fixed blade one duh : )

[Basta]

Probably a hunting or bowie knife. I don't so much like the design of this knife any more, and I've gotten much better since then...I prefer smaller knives, as they're more practical.

Maybe it's time for an improved instructable...

[MR.builderguy]

a tutorial on making demascus, please?????

[MR.builderguy]

this is my finished knife. By the way, I like a good, heavy knife, and Im working on one with a gut-hook.

[henster22]

year i loved this instructibal do you have any more?

[Basta]

Check my page for others--nothing quite so in-depth as this. But come summer I plan on doing a blade forging Instructable.

[MR.builderguy]

eh?

[henster22]

What on earth is that???

[MR.builderguy]

Its a native american style chopping tool.

[henster22]

ooooo
cool

[henster22]

Yes that sounds cool.
please look at my 2 as-well.
ps one might not yet be on as I have only just published it,

[henster22]

I know an instructabal that you could make.
how to nap flint cos i dont know how to

[flamethrower1010]

This Instructable is great! I'm about halfway through my knife and I'm just waiting to get some motor oil so I can do the hardening process. Anyway, I was just wondering why you didn't varnish the handle of the knife. Is there a reason for this or was it just a personal choice?

[Basta]

Chioce. I never see many knives varnished--but if I wanted a hard shiny finish, I would use stabilized wood (and I probably should be using it, anyway...)

[atomicturkey27]

I have a blade of A2 steel that i hardened and tempered, and it takes the grit of the sandpaper when i try to finish it. Any suggestions?

[henster22]

use wet and dry paper or just use a coarse nale file

[Basta]

The only thing you can do is change out the sandpaper. I usually go through a large sheet of each grit for every knife, sometimes more.

A2 is an air-hardening steel--how did you alter the hardening procedure?

[atomicturkey27]

ill try to find zirconia sandpaper... ITs not very common though. For the hardening, I heated it to the critical temperature, and then put it in an old BBQ with no heat and the lid on for about 20 min. Then, Once it was about 150 degrees, I brought it inside and tempered it for 2 hours at 500 degrees. It seemed to work ok!

[Basta]

Nice! And I was assuming you're using the standard black aluminum oxide sandpaper for metalworking--if you haven't used that stuff yet, that's what you need. If you have used the black oxide and it didn't work, McMaster-Carr usually carries weird, rare stuff. It wouldn't surprise me if they carried zirconia sandpaper.

[atomicturkey27]

I tried some of the harbor freight silicon carbide stuff and it just wasn't working... and I checked McMaster-Carr and they have zirconia sandpaper, for $9 per sheet!!!

[henster22]

I love this !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

[Fire hobbit]

one of the best tutorials i have read on here... will have to have a go at making one soon. a couple of questions mind. 1: what is the max length this method of blade making is good for? 2: would a brick bbq using none charcoal coal be good enough to use as a forge? cheers

[Basta]

Jay Fisher uses stock removal for large swords. The heat treating procedure is different--more precise--but you can use this method for any size blade, potentially. As long as the heat-treating forge is big enough, at least. The brick BBQ should be fine, provided it has a good forced air supply, such as a shop vac in reverse; that's the cheap solution. Use real blacksmith's coal (softwood, NOT charcoal or anthracite). I'll leave finding it up to you. Thanks for the coherent comment! They're always appreciated.

[apod13]

charcoal will work, u just burn through a ton of it, and u need some swift air flow to keep it hot

[MR.builderguy]

I used a camp-fire sort of thing, (oak firewood), and i blew on it with a leaf-blower. It's somewhat difficult, but it's fun.

[apod13]

that works too. make sure to keep any...plastic fans...you might use far enough from the fire. they melt. (i know from experience.)

[MR.builderguy]

that sounds unfortunate.

[ironsmiter]

Max length? Your skill. That's it. If you're going to try heattreating in your BBQ... the size of your grill will have more to do with the blade length than anything else. If you're going to use Charcoal... go for REAL charcoal. By real, I mean hardwood charcoal. You can make your own, if you can't find any to buy(many many sites will tell you how, and it's not really hard). But the briquettes are problematic for metalworking, though they WILL work, if you're desperate. In a pinch, I've even done some heat treating in a wood fire. While camping, a budy complained that his new axe wouldn't even cut saplings without getting dull. Since we had a nice hot bonfire going... in the head of the axe went. Heated to a bright cherry in around 3 min, quickly quenched in the pond to a black heat. after a quick(and careful) polish with scotchbrite on one side... we waited for the staw temper color to reach the cutting edge, and plunged it in the water till cold to the touch. Voila, it now holds it edge pretty well, for moderate brush hacking. :-) If we had known the exact type of steel used, had access to my oil and water quench tanks, and more time... it would have been much better, but someimes making it WORK is more important than getting it exactly "right". One thing to note... a standard BBQ grill is NOT designed for the heats you achieve with forced air. It'll probably work a few times before it starts burning up, with low volume forced air. It is pretty easy to accidentally burn a hole right through the sheet metal. As an example, I have personally burned through a forge/grill made from a de-commissioned oxygen cylinder. It was loaded with coal, but the owner forgot to put the cast iron air grate in and, well, after a session of forge welding... I went to knock a clinker out, but knocked the air supply T clear out the bottom instead!

[MR.builderguy]

my knife isnt done yet, bbut this is my fave. sharpening method.

[knibbles]

Why do you finish the blade before you heat treat?

[thedingwing]

Heating steel creates oxidation, or scale as it is known in blacksmithing. If the blade is rough and scale forms, the scale sticks to the blade and it is hard to get off. If it is smooth before heat treating, you can usually knock it off with some steel wool or 220 wet/dry sand paper.

[spenfisher12]

well first i think it should have been annealed first (soffened) but befor tempering it is softer

[knibbles]

Please answer as I would like to make a knife and don't know why you would finish the blade before you heat treated it.

[GriffithPage]

I would imagine it is because the steel is easier to work with before heat treating.

[Basta]

It makes it easier to finish the second time. Plus, it was how I was taught. Next time I make a blade, though, I'm leaving it rough-ground during heat treating and then doing the final grinding while the blade is hard. I saw a tutorial online where the guy hardens the blade blank and then does ALL his grinding before he tempers. This makes sense to me, because it would reduce warpage in the hardening quench. So in short, you don't need to and probably shouldn't. If you use power tools after heat-treating, be careful and keep a quench bucket handy, because the friction can overheat the blade and ruin the temper.

[punkhead58]

Actually, I usually, depending on the steel's hardness, do all of my finishing (fine grinding, filework, and rough sanding) after normalizing and annealing, but before hardening. It makes it easier for me. But I suppose it is a personal preference.

[knibbles]

Thank you very much!! I'll post pictures of my knife when I finish. P.S. You are the first person to ever answer one of my comments.

[Basta]

Sorry it took me a year. I usually try to answer all the questions people have for me, which is probably why I have 700 comments so far. Some just slip through the cracks.

[spenfisher12]

what is the piont of the stuff on the spine

[Basta]

It looks nice, and gives me a little bit more of a thumb grip. Though there are better patterns if you're going for grip.

[spenfisher12]

soooooooo jimping

[spenfisher12]

lol your face in the last pic

[nonickname]

Hey,

I made a knife recently using some tips from your instructable. I have a fair bit of metalwork experience (mainly turning, milling etc) so I tried my hand at a knife. The result is below. By the way I recommend you get some thin cutting disks for your angle grinder. They cut through hardened steel like butter and you'll never go back to a hacksaw when you've used them.

My knife still needs buffing and a wrist cord but it looks alright already. I might do an instructable on it soon.

Thanks

[marsrover]

Incredible design, I would love the design you put into that. A very simple design but also looks incredible.

[jonboy95]

if you do make an instructable let me know because i would like to know how u made that so i can make one of my own

[Basta]

That looks really nice, the profile is great. What kind of handle are you doing fir it, just bare metal and a little paracord?

Since I made the instructable I have started using cutting disks--they're great, except that they wear out every five minutes! I always seem to run out halfway through every other project. Maybe I should start buying in bulk.

[nonickname]

Nah no handle, just bear metal. I've polished it up really nicely, blued and varnished it. It holds nicely. I'm thinking of using this as inspiration for my next knife:

http://www.knifewallpapers.com/wallpapers/punisher_war_zone_knife_1024.jpg

[corrysoccer16]

Just a note but if that round blade is diamond embedded blade, you don't want to use it on steal because the steal wants carbon. Therefore when you heat the diamonds up(when cutting there is heat) and the steal will pull the carbon out of the diamonds then.

[dogianto444]

finally i finished my knife!! this instructable guided me through every step and i am proud of it! and most of all you sir, for teaching me how to make knifes after years of trying. thanks again! P.S. my design is the tracker knife inspired by the movie "the hunted" which is a great movie.

[Basta]

I've heard of the movie, and I've seen the design--though I've never seen the movie itself. Maybe I should give it a shot. The knife looks good--thanks for the pics! What's that you used for the handle?

[dogianto444]

its two pieces of pine wood epoxied in between the blade.then after it dried i belt sanded it down and rounded out the edges.

[badideasrus]

umm... is that movie the one where the old man has to hunt down his aprentice? who has been killing people? like hunters and the like?

cuz if that's the movie, then why does it have saw teeth? i don't remember those

[marinos.a]

unbelievable craftsmanship

[imkwl12345]

what to do with it after? WELL.... you could give it to me :D

[dogianto444]

do i really have to put it in the oven? what is its purpose of doing it?

[Basta]

Tempering. Read the 2d and last paragraph on this step.

[stickeater]

lol just make sure the bars on your oven isnt cheap or they will fuse to the knife,

[dogianto444]

i already made it hardened in a charcoal fire and it is completely black just like the 10th picture. how do i know when it is is a brown or purplish color when its in the oven? does the black skin eventually get replaced?

[Basta]

It doesn't get replaced. I sand the hardened blade a little bit so I can see the white metal underneath. This is where the colors show up.

[dogianto444]

one last question when you take it out of the oven do u dump it in water or do you let it sit in the open air?

[Basta]

Either.

[exploder1]

some really nice looking blades here, im working on a large hunting knife at the moment, im shaping it out of 5mm connector plate and a post stirrup (aust) overall length is just over 300mm(one foot)
ill post some pics soon as i just joined.

[Basta]

Make sure you do!

[atomicturkey27]

My most recent knife. Instructable coming soon

[Basta]

That looks great!

[atomicturkey27]

Thanks. That means a lot coming from you!

[cowscankill]

My knife from  very old lawnmower blade. I don't know where to buy proper steel :P

[Don,t try this at home]

how did you get the weathering on the blade???

[cowscankill]

The metal was originally 20 year old rusted lawnmower blade, so the blade was naturally weathered :D

[Don,t try this at home]

so all of my lawnmower blades are curved do i flaten them out or do i work around them

[cowscankill]

Flattening would be hard unless you have a forge. My had bends in the ends, but I worked around them

[Basta]

That's really good. The weathering on the blade makes it look hammer-finished, like you've forged it.

[badideasrus]

i thought it looked pattern-welded. really neat.

[googa555]

could you wrap the handle of a full tang in leather

[Basta]

Yes. http://www.magnusaxelsonknives.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=19&pos=2

[zupyo22]

id have to say this is one of the very best how to knives iv seen on the internet could you show how to make a machete would it be the same as making this knife or would you take different steps to make it stroger

[minerug]

If you want a sheath for your knives, this instructable could help- http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Knife-Sheath-from-Leather/

[bombmaker2]

Are you really promoting yourself on Instructables?

[Basta]

Or even better, http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-a-Sheath/ That one's mine.

[Ballistaman]

Can I use water instead of oil? Also, will scrap from the junkyard be ok just for making a knife so I can say to people, "I made a knife"? Thanks!

[Basta]

Probably not. Most tool steels are oil-quench and most junk steel is low-carbon. If you want to go low-cost, cannibalize an old file for steel and harden it in cooking oil. If you make it from junkyard scrap and quench in water, you won't have a knife in the modern sense of the word.

[zerrodach]

When you were annealing, how long did you let the steel cool in the open air?

[Basta]

Until it's black. Preferably, cool enough to handle with bare hands. Some pro smiths use heating ovens and let the steel cool slowly over a period of hours, but I've never had a problem with this method. Takes maybe five minutes.

[sculptur]

can you use used motor oil?

[Basta]

Yes, apparently that's even better because of its carbon content. Quenching in unused oil is fine, but it zips away a little of the carbon in the metal.

[sculptur]

thanks because i have lots of old used oil

[metal man007]

Hey Basta Great instructable, very clear and detailed. Approximately what were the dimensions of your finished blade? (ie. blade width, total knife length, blade thickness) Thanks. Metal Man007

[Basta]

just about 1 1/4" by 9" by 3/8"

[metal man007]

Thanks alot. The finished knife looks amazing.

[cowscankill]

Ive made a knife before, but they way I am making my new knife is a bit... difficult. Any ideas on how to split 3/4" wood in half? I only have a hacksaw, miter saw, and angle grinder... I can't use two thin pieces of wood for the scales because of the way this knife is shaped.

[Basta]

Depends on the wood, but I'd use the miter saw.

[cowscankill]

Yeah, I have used it before so today I said "Screw it" and cut the wood. Worked pretty well, I almost have another finished knife :D I can post pics if you like ( I don't know if I ever posted my first knife? if not, I can post that one too...)

[Basta]

You might have, but I can't remember which one it is. I always love it when people post pictures of knives, so definitely post your new one. And the old one if you want, it's neat to see progress over time.

[cowscankill]

Here's the new knife :D http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs100.ash2/38324_146996961979921_100000088553089_435146_1793396_n.jpg As for the old one, it is in fact, posted below :P

[Basta]

I have to say, that looks really good. I guess when I scrolled past your first knife the image didn't show up the first time...I see it now, though. Did you use a lawnmower blade for this one, too? Like before, I really like the weathered finish.

[cowscankill]

Yeah, another but different lawnmower blade. I think I still have metal left... so I may make a few in a series called "lawnmower knives" haha

[cowscankill]

Will do. Today I finish sanding the handle, then stain and it should be done.

[geoslim13]

I prefer a 30 degree angle for it is strong and sharp.

[geoslim13]

I would also like to state that you should sharpen both sides. The 20 degree angle you are using to sharpen the knife will lead to a 40 degree angle edge, which is the standard angle for axes, wood splitting wedges, and survival knives because they will split the wood without too much energy loss.

[knexsuperbuilderfreak]

wow this is very impresive it looks like a real knife

[geoslim13]

No offense but it is a real knife which is a sharp piece of rock glass wood or metal used to cut stuff

[bombmaker2]

lol. That's because it is a real knife.

[minerug]

I got myself a basic large knife while in Vietnam last week, but what it lacks is any sort of hand grip. All I have at my disposal is a sheet of thick leather... Could someone post a link or some help for making a leather wrapped grip please?

[punkhead58]

Very well done. However, as for the tempering of the knife, you should use a small toaster oven, rather than a regular oven. Because regular ovens are so large, they are unable to maintain a consistent temperature. As a matter of fact, sometimes the temperature can fluctuate up to 100 degrees. This can have serious repercussions on the knife's tempering. However, because toaster ovens are smaller, they are able to maintain a more constant temperature. Also, I personally prefer triple tempering my knives by alternating heating and cooling cycles. (Put the knife in the oven for an hour, let it cool off for an hour....)

[Basta]

Sounds like a god idea. Plus, I could store and use a toaster oven right in my forge. Maybe I'll pick one up at walmart.

[punkhead58]

That's what I do. Plus, I don't have to worry about exposing my kitchen oven to oil fumes, since I also cook in it.

[tevers94]

Hey, this is a great instructable as i said before. I bought a sheet of metal about a year ago, so it is a bit rusty now. I never really got to making them and cutting them out. I am kind of frustrated that I bought 1/4" because it's to thick to make smaller knives. Though i did find some larger knives that i plan on making.

[Basta]

1/4 inch is great for making serious survival and camp knives like the ones you have outlined. And hey, is that my design up top in the second picture? I'm honored. I hope you find time to finish your work.

[tevers94]

Yeah it is your design, and the first one i started. I just have to cut a little but more and then take a grinder to it.

[The_Batman]

Awesome knife, very well done. You seem like a pro so i gotta ask u a question. I am, as u can tell by my name, a big Batman fan and I was wondering how I would make a baterang. I looked around on the internet, but they don't seem to be very clear or easy. So I was wondering if you could give me some basic pointers of how I should go about styarting this? Thanks.

[Basta]

I'm honored to get such a question. I'd use a thin tool steel, maybe 1/8" to 1/16" thick, and trace the baterang design of your choice with sharpie. cut it out oversized with the cutoff attachment of a Dremel tool, and grind it down to the outline with a barrel sander attachment, like a mini version of my Step 3. You could then put a bevel on the edges to make it sharp, but I'm not sure that's totally necessary--Christian Bale didn't in "Batman Begins," so it's true to recent canon. Look up instructions for a shuriken--it seems like a similar project, since that's what a baterang basically is. I would also say it's not too necessary to heat treat the steel. If you want to make it look really sharp, use a cold gun blue formula to darken the steel. And post pictures if you end of doing it--I'd like to see how it comes out. McMaster.com is probably the best source for steel.

[The_Batman]

Thanks you very much for your advice, it seems much more clear than the other sites I visited. Excuse my amateur-ish behaviour, but I have one last question. What is the cold gun blue formula? Thanks again for your advice, I plan on getting started right away. :D

[Basta]

This kind of stuff: http://www.bluelaketackle.com/birchwood-casey-super-blue-liquid-gun-blue-3oz-p-25992.html You can get it at most stores that stock shooting supplies, like Cabelas. Use the "super blue," it's much better than the regular stuff.

[axmon]

Just making sure you preheat the oven eh?

[knibbles]

"If it did, chose your hardness from the sheet and use that temperature. You'll want a medium hardness for a knife." I think you meant If it did, CHOOSE not chose. P.S. Other than that, great 'ible. I would give you six stars if I could.

[bombmaker2]

This is a knife that I'm working on. I ground it down for an hour from a file that was laying around. I am going to add a blade stop (I think thats what it's called) before finishing

[Basta]

Looks like a nice heavy point, almost like a throwing knife. I like the shape--I guess I'd call it a clip-point tanto? Maybe I should try it out on a project. To my knowledge, blade stops are a part of some folding or automatic knives--do you mean a bolster, or maybe a guard? It'll look good when it's done.

[bombmaker2]

Here is an update after grinding, welding on a guard, and heat treatment. I still have to put the final edge on and grind a little more but other than that it's done.The handle is going to be made out of paracord.

[Basta]

Nice

[bombmaker2]

Thanks.

[bombmaker2]

By the way, do you have any idea about what quenching liquid should be used for old files? Otherwise I will just use oil like you did.

[Basta]

When in doubt, automatic transmission fluid, like you can get at the hardware store. Don't use pure motor oil like I said in the instructable--a 50/50 mix of used oil and new transmission fluid would be best. Used motor oil is pretty carbon-rich--which I believe will make your blade just that much more durable, but don't quote me to a pro smith on that. Never use water or brine unless you're certain you have a water-quenching steel. That's the only big no-no.

[bombmaker2]

Okay thanks. As soon as I finish a brake rotor forge, I will finally make me a real knife.

[bombmaker2]

Thanks. It was a redesign of the Delta 5 Clip-Point Tanto Knife so you could it a clip-point tanto. And guard was the word I was looking for. I'm gonna make it out of eighth inch steel welded on. I really like how the whole thing came out so far considering I don't do any real metal working.

[N3v3rm0r3]

can you build a sword by following the same procedure?

[Basta]

Yeah, kind of...the procedure gets way harder as the size of the piece increases, and the stock-removal method used here doesn't make the strongest blades. Forging would be a better method for a "real" blade. So you can make a sword-shaped object using this method, but depending on your skill and the type of steel you use, actual cutting with the sword would be an issue.

[N3v3rm0r3]

by "actual cutting with the sword would be an issue"  , you mean that the blade will brake, or it won't cut? i'm going to use carbon steel and i don't have any experience in working with metals, except welding...

[Basta]

The blade will not be up to par with the strength and durability of pro-made swords. I couldn't tell you how many times you could hit something with a sword made with my technique before it broke, but it would. It also depends mostly on the kind of steel you use. L6 would be a good steel, and it can be found in leafsprings from old trucks at the junkyard. To my best knowledge, most swords were kept kind of dull, so that they could deflect other blades--the exceptions being swords that did not commonly make blade contact, like Japanese katanas and Chinese shortswords. So your sword probably won't be able to cut like a Ginsu knife by design.

[N3v3rm0r3]

now i think of it, i'm not going to waste time just to see my blade break. also, can you make a double edged knife? if yes, how?

[Basta]

yes, just grind two bevels on the blade instead of one. The cross-section of the blade will be a diamond shape instead of a triangle.

[lobo_pal]

How soft is the metal if you don't heat treat it. I want to, but I don't really have a means right now besides simply using a gas torch.

[Basta]

Pretty soft. Edges won't hold up to normal use if the steel is completely untreated. Hardness is a question of ease of sharpening and flexibility vs. edge retention and brittleness, as far as knife makers are concerned. Untreated steel will be extremely resistant to breaking damage, and will be extremely easy to sharpen to a point of usability, but it will not stay sharp for long as you will probably not be able to reach the blade's full cutting potential even immediately after sharpening. That said, it's fine if you don't want to heat treat it, but it won't be a knife in the usual sense of the word--it'll be more like a spear head. Just keep that fact in mind. I'd still try to use tool steel if you can as it will be more wear-resistant than mild steel even untreated.

[lobo_pal]

If I were to try to treat it with a gas torch, How do you think it would turn out? Or should I just see about a ceramic oven, which I might have access to in the future.

[Basta]

Depends what size the blade is and what kind of torch you're using. You just need to be able to get the blade up to a non-magnetic or orange heat. If it's a small blade and a reasonably powerful torch, go for it. You can get a MAPP gas canister (yellow can; a step up in power from propane) and torch head at the hardware store for about 20 american dollars, and MAPP is strong enough for small blades. I actually tried to harden the blade in this instructable that way, but the torch would only maintain a dull red heat over the entire blade. This knife was pretty big and thick, though. If you have a reasonably thin and short knife, three inches or so, you'd probably be able to harden with a medium-power torch. What kind of torch are you using? If you have something bigger, like an oxyacetylene torch, you would be all set for most blade sizes. The reason I like to use a forge (coal, gas or electric--I assume the ceramic oven you talk about is an electric forge?) is that you can heat the whole blade at once. You have to move the heat around with a torch.

[lobo_pal]

I would mostly be using my dad's tools, so not sure about specifics, but I could use acetylene. As for the ceramic oven, all I know is that he has been talking about it because he makes steam engines as a hobby and it is a method of treating metal. I am pretty sure it is using coal in a ceramic container, much like your forge in the picture, but it can also be heated up more to cast metal. The blade size would be more cricket knife or pocket knife size, so <3 in. I was going to experiment and then make an instructable, but then I saw yours. Good job by the way, very well done.

[Basta]

You could probably heat treat a knife that size with your torch. The only type of acetylene torch that might be slightly underpowered is a little jeweler's torch, and even that would probably work eventually. If you have an oxyacetylene torch--one with a tank of acetylene and a tank of oxygen--you're definitely set. I say give it a shot either way. Heating the blade just a few times cannot damage it.

[lobo_pal]

Would you be offended if I made an instructable on it after I do some tests?

[Basta]

It's a free country. Tell me when you finish it, I'll add the link to the intro of this instructable.

[lobo_pal]

Great! One last question though, is there an advantage to sharpening the knife before or after heat treatment? I would think that if heat treating doesn't dull or damage the blade itself then it would be better to do it before, but I don't know if this could make it harder or easier to sharpen. Any thoughts?

[Basta]

Sharpening to a cutting edge? Definitely after. Thin parts of the blade heat up easier in the fire and can actually burn up. I was just looking at the website of a guy who puts just a very small bevel on his rough-cut blade, leaving the cutting edge about 1/16 of an inch thick, and heat treats it that way. Then he does all the grinding when the blade is hard. I've never done it this way, but I may try it--leaving such a thick blade would prevent warpage during hardening, and it's not more difficult to grind hardened steel. The only big issue is overheating the blade from friction against the wheel, which would destroy the heat-treatment. Just keep a bucket of cold water near the grinder and quench very regularly, and I bet that this would be the best way to go.

[magiccowy]

For the taping when you take it off if it has sticky residue use WD40 or RP-7 to wipe it down. This removes residue and may be benificial to the blade. Correct me if i'm wrong and it has adverse affects on some metals but is worked for me so far.

[bombmaker2]

I don't know for sure but I would think WD40 would maybe help with some sort of rust prevention.

[magiccowy]

Is it 450 farenheight? Not celsius?

[clzfishing]

i have a question? how do you get the wood on and have it look nice.

[Basta]

There's more detail in step 7, but you have to work the grip in gradually finer grits of sandpaper. At the end you can polish it with brown wood buffing compound if you want.

[pyroman50]

im new to this but do i have to heat treat it?

[Basta]

Yes, which is why there is a step 5. Otherwise it's not really a knife.

[pyroman50]

sorry

[qballcat]

my first knife, i dont have any real probs with it, its razor sharp i would only like it to be shiny-er. also the tapered part (the word escapes me at the moment) that leads to the edge, i want that to be smoother.
also i am 14 but i was being safe :D the quenching was awesome but i love the final product. its going to be a hunting knife.
thanks for reading all that
-kieran

[Don,t try this at home]

What do you mean by shiner.

[qballcat]

better lustre...er ness, cut me some slack im 14 :P

[harley_rly]

ur a small 14 year old

[LokiGnosis]

Well done.
Excellent, keep at it because who knows how good you can become if you are already doing work like this at 14 .
I could barely make a cup of tea at 14.........................



 

[qballcat]

thank you very much, one thing though why were you on at 2 in the morning? :P

[LokiGnosis]

Well, qballcat, the easy answer is that I'm allowed to, seeing how I'm a grown up but on the other hand are you sure that the 2 o'clock isn't your time and not my time, I take it that you are in the States?
A more frightening thing is that I have been out even later, Shock, Horror!
Here's a pic outside the "Ain't nothing but" bar in Londons Soho, at 4:30am and a 2 hr drive home, I know, terrible isn't it............
Blues, Booze and a Blonde (The Wife).
Anyway, enough banter, as I said before a really nice knife........well done.

Loki.

[MrMystery96]

Aaaaagh, now that looks like a party!

[Basta]

Awesome job there. Very promising for a first knife and I hope you continue. I'm pretty sure that tapered part is called a "false edge," and it looks pretty good to me. I encourage you to learn as much as you can about knife making as you undoubtedly have some talent.

Bravo! And good luck with all your projects.

[qballcat]

thanks :D i plan to make many more, thankyou very much for your instructions, very helpful (I remember, i call the "false edge" a bevel, but thats wrong I think)

[acidbass]

 thank you for making this ible but is there any way to make this a folding knife and is there any way to make it have a deadly searated edge

[z-man6233]

folding knife are extremely hard to make and serations can be made with files and lots of patience

[acidbass]

 i see thank you 

[Celt]

AWSOME!!!!!!   That websight you gave us is great.  I found the exact steel sheet I was looking for fairly priced!  I tested a piece of the steel, and I was pre-hardened, so I softened it up By heating it in the forge and letting it cool slowly.  It was a lot softer then and didnt eat up my tools. Im making a smatchet!

[Templarix47]

 How long did this take?

[Basta]

about 20 hours give or take

[fragmaster4]

Sorry apod13, that looks more like a serrated edge for sawing rather than an extra grip to me ;) I'm pretty sure if it was meant as grip it would be on the handle itself. Correct Basta?

[Basta]

The serrations are actually decorative filework and not sharp. They could probably provide a grip for your thumb. Step 4 shows the top view if you're interested.

[FrozenStar]

What dimensions are the piece of steel you used?

[Basta]

About 1/4 inch by 6 inches by 20 inches if I had to guess. 1/4 inch is a little thick, go for 1/8 for a first knife. The other dimensions don't matter much. A bar between 1 and 1-1/2 inches is good, and length is only determines by how many knives you want to make. 2 feet is good.

I can do metric if you need it, too.

[FrozenStar]

Also, where did you get the brass rods?

[FrozenStar]

Is there a peticular type of steel i could use to avoid the heat treating precees or is it required for all types of steel?

[Basta]

It's necessary for all steel, and different types require different methods. Heat treating is an integral part of the process.

[FrozenStar]

Ah Thanks.

[tech53]

I hope I'm not being too picky, but I thought I'd correct something... being into the samurai culture and such....katanas, wakazashis, and tantos (japanese swords) tend to have full tang blades. They were some of the best technology ever made in blades, and still to this day it is hard to beat a >>>good<<< katana. Though a good katana may well cost thousands or tens of thousands of dollars. Those made for real life battle are not cheap. I like your instructable though, maybe I can try to make something. Good luck and thanks for enduring my pickiness.

[uberchoob]

Do they? I often see sites advertising Katana as 'full-tang', but wouldn't that require that the tang is present throughout the handle???

A typical katana has a handle that extends about a quarter of its length past the end of the tang.  How is that really considered to be full tang?

I'm not trying to be jerk, I really don't know  :)

[Basta]

Actually, you're absolutely right and tech53 is also kind of right, and there arises the confusion. Katanas, real ones, have what I would call a very large partial tang--the handle isn't bound on either side by scales like my knife is. Partial-tang knives, though, usually have a shorter and thinner tang than katanas, simply because the forces created by swinging a knife around aren't as strong as the forces created by swinging swords, and a really huge tang isn't necessary there. Sword retailers, though, want to make sure you know that you're getting a quality weapon instead of something made cheaply with a rat-tail tang or inadequate partial tang. So they call a katana "'full-tang" for ease and clarity. I would also call most european swords "through-tang" weapons, though that also has a bad connotation among buyers. Basically, it's impossible to construct a weak full-tang, and katana tangs are pretty thick, so it's prudent to call them such in the sales world.

[uberchoob]

INCREDIBLE end product, by the way Basta!!

[Basta]

Thanks

[MrMystery96]

correction, an antique katana may cost tens of thousands of dollars, though it is relatively easy to find a well made, well balanced sword for about 300 dollars (out of quality metal too!) however these weapons have become obsolete in battle, they make nice pieces as decorations and demonstrations.

[foxtrot4697]

katanas are amazing, if you shot a bullet at the front of the blade it would get cut in half

[jjay10]

Any sword,knife, or axe would cut a bullet in half if you shot it at the front of the blade. Not just a katana.

[MrMystery96]

hate to bust your bubble, but do you know the chances of actually getting a bullet to hit the blade just right? Even then, Its not exactly reliable. And for that matter, even if your could block a bullet, the two halves would just fly into you.

[Zaphod Beeblebrox]

well if u fired point blank maybe and i think he ment  strength not actually using that in a fight

[foxtrot4697]

yes that is exactly what i meant

[Zaphod Beeblebrox]

oh ok

[foxtrot4697]

im just saying, it can

[Basta]

True, but it's a testament to the quality of the blade--actually, I bet most sharp, thick, good knives would do that to a bullet...maybe even one of mine if I'm smithing it right. You could set up the shot by clamping the knife and the gun at just the correct position, with a sheet of paper behind the blade to show if the halves penetrated...but I'm not sure they would let me do that at the local range.

[MrMystery96]

It was proven by the mythbusters that The task could be done, however the two pieces would fly back and hit you regardless, causing twice as much damage. The problem with it, Is that its not a task that is very easy to accomplish in reality. Seriously, I don't know of many people who could manage to line up a sword with a moving bullet, and still hold onto whilst the energy is transfered straight up and down throughout the metal. Long story short, its plausible, but not likely.

[15zhangfra]

 nice, can this method be done with a cheap piece of steel that is supposed to be a knife, but needs a lot of work? like ould i grind out a miny knife from a better fresh area?

and regardless of what ever the previous comments- the above is still a pretty good knife.

[Basta]

Depends--do you mean making a smaller knife out of a large, poorly-crafted one? If it's stainless, you would have to do it without upsetting the heat treatment, which is hard. In any case, it has to be a piece of tool-worthy steel, which I wouldn't call "cheap" in most cases. If you're interested in this project, I'd suggest trying if from scratch.

Thanks; I believe it's a good knife.

[Zaphod Beeblebrox]

where would i get 01 carbon steel?

[Basta]

www.mcmaster.com

[Zaphod Beeblebrox]

how much $ is it? the parental controls on my laptop wont let me go see (the site doesn't have a rating)

[Basta]

About 16 bucks American for a bar 18" x 1 1/4" x 3/16" (good for 2 or so medium-sized fixed-blade knives). Should put it into perspective for you, though there are thousands of different dimensional combinations.

[Zaphod Beeblebrox]

how much would you sell a fully made,complete knife like above? i would really love to have one!

[Zaphod Beeblebrox]

[geodez]

i have a nice block of purpleheart wood, i was wondering what to do with it.

[red-king]

 purpleheart wood is nice....

[MrMystery96]

purpleheart wood?

[red-king]

 

[geodez]

wood....niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice....

[red-king]

 hahaha....

[geodez]

yes!

[Blaaken]

I would like to say something abouta comment i made earlier, it may have offendedsome of you but, rightnow I am studying black smithing, and sometimes, it's better to take time to make things, like knives. Ifyou dn't know the amont o carbon in your metal yo could mess up your blade, which iswhy i said that a sharp piece of metal is no a knife, let me correct that, i meant a good knife. you should find out the carbon in the metal if you wantto make some sort of useful blade. anyone carn make a sharp piece of metal, can you make a tool? a tool, in my eyes, no matter how many detaails you put in it, is the ugliest piece of crap on earth. if it can't preform, i won't touch it.

[Homeschooler360]

Couldn't I cut out the blade with say, a Dremel tool?

[MrMystery96]

dependingon the thickness of your blank, yes. however, if you intend to do so, I would recommend using a solid carbide bit.

[Basta]

Short answer, yes. Longer answer, I can't vouch for the type of steel you're using and its thickness, which will complicate things. Trial and error is king.

[Blaaken]

search purgatoryironwooks if you want to actually learn something man, this knife will litterally suck, and you learn nuthing except how to make a sharp piece of metal, leaarn to black smith, then yowill have accomplished something to be proud of.

[foxtrot4697]

a knife is a sharp piece of metal

[hairydevil]

dude, lets see you make a better knife.

[Basta]

Thanks for your input. I looked at www.purgatoryironworks.com and the rose video was kind of interesting; I might try it when I get the chance. That said, stock removal is not only a viable method of knife making, but it is the industry standard for non-custom and many custom knives. Check out www.jayfisher.com for examples. You reminded me that I've been meaning to post a blade-forging instructable for a while, though I haven't had time with school and all--maybe I will make time soon. While I appreciate your opinion, I think I HAVE accomplished something I can be proud of, and unless my methods are unsafe I suggest you don't knock my work until you have created something of equal value.

[Blaaken]

Hey, I just wanted to say that I am sorry for saying this knife sucked, I was fifteen and only had just started looking at black smithing, now that I am a little older I know that I was pretty ignorant and I apologize. So long as your bar stock is of good quality for knife making, then this is a great method.

[torpedo22]

Nice Comeback.

[MrMystery96]

after doing a bit or research, I can say, this is a well done 'ible, and as far as I can tell, this knife is great.

[zukomarley]

this is very nice. well done.

[BoomBoom123]

Watch out for the paper test, because believe it or not paper will dull your blade considerably.

[MrMystery96]

huh, I didn't know that. cool.

[Wesley666]

Now that's a real toad stabber!  Hate ppl with those stupid switchblades...those aren't real knifes.  I would make one but I already got a good one, plus its bigger then yours!   : P

[qwertyman10]

Wow. This is going to be useful. Ive wanted throwing knives for a while, but theyre too expensive to buy, and they get lost. Im going to have to learn how to do this. Nice instructable! 

[picklepie159]

http://knifethrowing.info/self_made_throwing_knives.html
http://knifethrowing.info/make_your_own_throwing_knife.html#pahl
 perfectly balanced
i had the same problem. stupid new york laws make throwing knives hard to ship and get.

[geodez]

picture 6, epic zombie weapon.

[SabreLightning]

 Agreed.

[geodez]

that gives real meaning to the phrase "too hot to handle."

[SabreLightning]

 Could you harden the blade in a fireplace?

[Basta]

Most definitely not, ESPECIALLY not in your living room.

[SabreLightning]

 What can I use to harden the steel? I intend on the blade being approx. 3 1/2 inches long.

[Basta]

There are ways to build forges, and for a blade that size, a makeshift firebrick forge should work. Basically, you construct a little tub out of bricks (outside, of course) and give it an air supply--a blower or hairdryer--and you're good. Tim Lively has a good design here: www.youtube.com/watch. He pads the sides of the forge with a heat-resistant materiel, but a barrier of coal would probably work too. You could also try a wheel hub forge, like this: www.toolmonger.com/2007/08/02/from-the-flickr-pool-a-brake-drum-forge/
it's a heavy brake drum, but for light use an old hub works.
You need real blacksmith coal, too, not anthracite. Look for it, it still exists.

[Caleb777]

A Thought On Annealing
Another way is to place it in a bucket of ash this insulates the blade and makes the it cool more slowly which gives you a better anneal.

Note: When using this method you should first heat a piece of scrap steel and place it in the ashes first to preheat them.

[aj01-01]

You can always make a knife out of paper

[ramboboy]

cool

[phelandhu]

Beautiful blade, I admire your skill and patience.

[Don,t try this at home]

What are the dimensions on the steel that you used.

[Basta]

The steel was part of the giant plate you see in the pictures, I think 3/16ths of an inch thick. That's rather thick. Go with 1/8th of an inch thick. If you can, buy bars that are already the width of your blade (about one inch).

[i farted]

heres my second knife its nowere near done

[bounty1012]

lol, is that cardboard?

[DELETED_craz meanman]

(removed by author or community request)

[stoobers]

Here's some un-solicited advice for you. I have reprofiled my kabar knife and now am completing my first knife. Pay a lot of attention to the profile of the knife. A profile like the kabar has isn't too useful, unless you want to go around stabbing people with a blunt ended knife. Better to have a profile closer to a fillet knife or a pocket knife (steak knife style). Go to a lawnmower repair store, and find an 8 to 10 inch "edger blade", either new (around $3) or used (used is free). They are carbon steel, just the right thickness, and will hold an edge. Also, the worn blades are already "worn" into a nice blade shape! Less grinding! These edger blades don't bend, they are so strong, its scary (hot-rolled and hardened steel - a rare combo). Cut your knife from this blank. Give your knife a blade length between 3 and 4 inches. This sounds short, but that is the only part of the knife you will ever use and therefore ever sharpen. Why waste time on a longer knife, especially your first knife? After you finish one, you will be hooked and will be making dozens. Make the first as simple as possible, else you will give up, and that is a pity. Instead of "finishing" the first knife all shiny and bright, go to a sporting goods store and buy a bottle of "gun blue" (sometimes called "gun black".) It is a clear fluid that stains carbon steel dark black. Sand the knife to a soft "matte" finish, then stain the blade with the fluid. The knife looks fantastic, and it takes very little work. Again, remember your first knife is the hardest and you need all the help you can get. So do what you can to take it easy on yourself. You don't need to forge anything if you get pre-hardened steel. You are not going to "break" an edger blade, and you will likely not bend it, either. Grinding is the way to go, as it doesn't change the temper of the metal. You are on your own for the tang and handle. I make "partial tangs" that go into the wood and stop. I cut a nice round wood handle on a lathe and hammer on an aluminum or copper ferrule (similar to the kabar handle.) Then I drill a hole and hammer the tang / blade in. The tang has been given fishhook like cuts to help grip the wood, then the hole gets filled in w/ epoxy. If the blade pops out, beat it into a lumpy shape and hammer it back in w/ more glue. If you look at knives throughout history, you will see this "hidden tang" show up the most, bec. it is so much easier to make.

[temp]

"Give your knife a blade length between 3 and 4 inches." I would only suggest this for making blades used for whittling, carving, and small tasks. The joy of having a hefty 8 inch long by 1/4 inch thick blade is it has a lot more chopping power. It is literally a small hatchet. This is great for large tasks that include cutting down saplings, splitting small pieces of wood, etc.

[Basta]

Wow, great advice! I've never used edger blades myself but I think I'll recommend them from now on for small knives. The ones I've seen are a little thin for a really sturdy knife and might take a little more finesse to make a nice edge but would definitely work. I really like the gun blue idea, in fact I think I'll try it on my next knife (whenever it is that I get back to my workshop from school).

[stoobers]

Edger blades come in a bunch of different thicknesses. Just find the kind that feels right.

[i farted]

im 13 it was sort of hard to make. if your going to make one i would say use a dremel. thats what i used. dont try and use a regular saw because its really hard and i cut myself with it. luckily my finger didnt fall off. once you get the dremel it takes about 2-3 minutes to cut the steel depending on what your using.

[peterlonz]

One rivet hole closest the blade in your pic shows what looks like a "breakout splintering" which is relatively deep & is clearly not removed in the handle sanding operation. I assume you will try to fill this defect with coloured filler? These things are hard to avoid particularly in hardwoods & I wonder if you have found a drilling technique that eliminates this risk? Sorry to be picky but this small defect could spoil an otherwise near perfect job.

[hackmattr]

When you drill using a drill press, make sure there is a piece of scrap wood underneath the piece your drilling. This is one way to prevent the splintering. Another helpful way of avoiding the splintering is to have a sharp drillbit and to take it slow. If you take it slow then the bit has time to clear the shavings and therefore has a better cutting edge.

Those are my tips for drilling hardwoods after about 8 years of woodworking experience.

[Basta]

I was quite a bit disappointed by that one splinter--and yeah, I did try colored filler but the result was sub-par. Since you asked, I have found a way to stop it. When I drill the handle scales I clamp them together with a piece of pine underneath--that way, the little bit of wood at the bottom of the scale isn't affected by the pressure of the drill bit above it, as it's held in place by the pine. It's like drilling through one continuous piece of wood, and any damage done by drilling through will be done to the throwaway wood and not the scales.
Not sure if you wanted to know all that, but in case you did...

[TonyODonnell01]

You could also drill half way thru one way and finish drilling it the other way but you have to find some way to lineup the wholes.

[dejure]

Regarding that splinter, everyone knows such things are merely improvements. Said another way, where there is no solution, there cannot be a problem. It just sounds like an inlay project to me.

[hackmattr]

 This instructable is good.  I have made only one knife before for my uncle with a mrytlewood handle.  I think I'll try it your way so that I can have one.

[Whales]

I can't understand the tempering part, can someone explain.. soon hopefully..

[kerns]

Here's some initial info. If you're really interested look into the many knifemaking forums online as well.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_treatment#Hardening_and_tempering_.28quenching_and_tempering.29

[punkhead58]

(removed by author or community request)

[z-man6233]

he used brass rivets........

[SpunkChicken]

This is awesome man, I can't wait to try it!

[wiillii]

its look great i m gonna do that thanks

[rorpen]

Why are you called Basta... Is it like Inkheart??

[FunkNattidelic]

I tried to make a knife out of an old hardened steel Square, and it turned out almost OK but not what i was hoping for =P this is my first knife and sheath that ive ever made. Any suggestions on how to get the yellow enamel paint crap off o the blade? It just kept ruining the sanding discs for my dremel, and i dont have a belt sander or anything.

[Basta]

Try sanding it with normal sandpaper. Enamel shouldn't be harder to get off than heat-treating scale, and I just hand-sanded. I would guess from the enamel's presence that you didn't heat treat--but you've got a good start there. Are you sure it's hardened? In my experience any metal that comes painted isn't intended for tool work.

[Thundertydus]

Trying to make a dragon combat knife
http://www.black-bear-haversack.com/images/Fire%20Breathing%20Dragon%20Knife.JPG

Thats the more complicated version of my design.

[FunkNattidelic]

The thing i made it from said "Hardened Steel" across it so i didnt bother with trying to harden it myself. I'll try sanding it. Thanks

[(())jAkE(())]

can you make a pocket knife like this?

[Ghost Wolf]

You know you can use a dremel to sharpen the blade

[tevers94]

I ordered a sheet of 01 tool steel, 1/4" 12" 12", from mcmaster.com and it arrived today. I plan on making a few knives, so when I finish I'll post some of them. Thanks again for making this instructable.

[supernovix]

can i use the same steps in making a knife to make a sword? (not necessarily a katana)

[Basta]

Sure, that's the way Jay Fisher does it. For a "practical" blade, most people prefer a forged blade for its better structural qualities, but stock removal is a fine method too. Keep in mind that heat-treating will be much more difficult as you will need to keep the entire blade at a very high temperature. You would probably need to make an elongated furnace out of firebrick just for that. But yes, it's possible and many people do it.

[Whales]

The Pic of the knife in a stump(?) is awesome it's just shining there.

[dejure]

I've often thought of tackling this project. Thanks for the tips. Meanwhile, I've contented myself with polishing what I have in my pocket. Because I do granite work, I have polishing heads that fit on my variable spped grinder and that go up to 3000 grit, and above - buffing heads. These make VERY short work of metal polishing operations. If your project can tolerate water, the polishing heads will hold up for a very long time, since they are all diamond embeded for working stone.

[weaponscollector94]

nice knife looks well built!

[Sanctus_Sanctorum]

what sort of oil is used?

[Basta]

In the instructable I use car motor oil. While that's acceptable, I've since learned that ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is a better quenchant. It's available from the same exact place as motor oil is--the hardware store or an auto parts store.

[condoritos123]

ohh great!! thank you by this complete guide;D

[xerxesx20]

"Sock, no sock" lol. That on it's own is a brilliant addition to instructables! haha Nice instructable, seems really do-able. :-) 4.5 Stars.

[i farted]

i tried making one today and im really having a hard time. im using a regular saw, i cant cut the metal, ive cut my finger with the saw. i rushed myself to the emergency room (the bathroom)=) and the only way i cut the metal was with a drill,pliers and scissors. someone please tell me all the tools i need.=(

[stoobers]

Of course you can't cut the metal. It's "carbon steel". That's the point. You have to "grind" the steel. Go buy a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with a 25 cent think grinder disk. It will grind through the steel in a few minutes. Heavans! The steel is harder than the saw blade.

[Basta]

First of all, what kind of metal are you using? If you can cut it with scissors, I doubt it's high-carbon tool steel. Second, use a hacksaw, not a regular wood saw. Third, use sharp files or a grinder to shape the metal. But BE CAREFUL! If you mess up with a grinder you'll get much more than a cut finger. If you're not serious about doing the job right then don't do it.

[i farted]

demolsher502 where do you get 1018 steel at?

[stoobers]

Go to a "lawn and garden" store. Buy an "edger blade". It is around $3.00 American. You will get a piece a of Chinese Steel that will make you cry, its so durable.

[peterlonz]

I've never before heard on any "fine knife" being finish sharpened with a Kitchen steel. When new I would suggest finishing (IE after use of the sharpening stone)with one of the many small diamond hones which are available in several grades at modest prices, the fine grade should be fine. They are easy to control & when I use them I always use a cheap jewellers 10x loupe (about $5 or so check internet for sources) to inspect the edge. That way you can really see what's going on.

[ramboboy]

how thick is the metal

[Mathias Re'eh]

its in the instructable

[thapropguy]

I wish all instructables were like this one; very clear and straightforward, with enough pictures that someone who can learn better visually (or is too lazy to really read the text thoroughly, like me) can figure out the process on his/her own, and a little humor mixed in. Props to Basta on how well this is written! Maybe you can write an instructable on how to write instructables? :P

[BlondOfBlargh]

Thank you for this wonderful instructable, I personally just finished making my first knife (2 days completion). hopefully the next time around i do a better job.

[LokiGnosis]

well, I promised to post a Pic (or 2) when I had finished, so here goes! Loki.

[Basta]

Wow, that's beautiful! Very nice brass fittings, and the polish on the handle looks absolutely incredible. I find it hard to believe you've never tried anything like this before. I hope you continue making knives--you have talent. By the way, I can't tell from the pictures...did you end up using bone as the grip, or is that wood?

[LokiGnosis]

Basta, it's Hickory, I got fed up of waiting for the Venison, impatient more like it! I wanted to see it finished..... The first thing I made, early this year, was the Knights Templar in my Image Icon BUT believe me, the Knife wouldn't have turned out as good without your Instructable! I have spent a lot of hours on it and have learnt a lot and there are things that I wouldn't do again, all in all a big learning curve. I have worked out easier ways to put it all together without going through the pain barrier again, something struck me, as I was putting the finishing touches to it, that would of made my life a lot easier, live and learn........ I will make more but I have got to make a Furnace before I do, the Wife isn't too impressed with me ruining the Kettle BBQ, HO Hum...... I'll make the Furnace out of a Gas Bottle and see how I get on. Cheers, Loki.

[rownhunt]

Nice instructable

[ironforger33]

Thanks for the outstanding instructable, Basta! This was a page a ran across while looking for how to make a knife and I joined instructables just to comment. I am currently making a knife and this was a huge help. You made a beautiful knife and hope mine turns out aas well as yours. Thanks again!

[seanerdeaner]

how do i make it all wood without those little circles in the handle is that a through tang?? im gonna start making knives so plzz reply

[z-man6233]

Those "little circles" are rivets they hold the handle onto the blade and no its not a through tang i forgot the name of what it is lol but a through tang is like the one LokiGnosis made.(pictures below)

[z-man6233]

forgot to add this but its says how to make it n step 7.

[techno_pig]

those "little circles" are what holds the blade to the wood so you have to have those unless you tie the blade to the handle. you could put wood putty over the circles to cover them up though. look into it

[z-man6233]

could you tell me the dimentions of your knife? thx.

[LokiGnosis]

Note to self.Good idea to actually attach the pics to the message! Loki.

[Basta]

That looks beautiful! Job very well done, ESPECIALLY for a first project. I'm very happy you liked my instructables (and used the both, no less). You have great talent there...best of luck in your future endeavors.

[LokiGnosis]

Thanks Mate, nice to have a favourable comment from someone who knows! I've made a better handle and am in the process of forming the Brass (Naval Brass) end piece. Cheers, Loki.

[LokiGnosis]

Basta, a public "Thanks" to you, for the time and effort spent on your, and possibly the best, Instructable. I have never tried anything like it before but under your instruction I have managed to form a a Blade. I'm waiting for the Bone for the Handle, so I've mocked up a wooden one for length and then I will make the Brass End Piece, when complete I will add another pic. Ooopps, nearly forgot, I made a Sheath on Saturday, also thanks to your instructable................ Thanks again, Loki.

[Southpaw_Jim]

I like the file work. It adds a little extra to it without being too much like so many commercial blades nowadays.

[sharpsword7]

what is the filework for

[sharpsword7]

respond fast

[z-man6233]

it would probably work with a flint but it might just be for looks

[apod13]

basically looks, but it also adds some grip for ur thumb

[apod13]

finished hardening and tempering this weekend!

[seanerdeaner]

how do u make it shiny i know i sound stupid but im jw

[seanerdeaner]

do you have 2 have file work?? and how can u use a rubber grip instaed of wood???

[ibuildstuff]

When you are grinding down your blank try not to overheat the blade and change the color as shown in the 3rd picture. It can change the tempering in the blade and make the ratio between "hard" and "tough" change, causing the blade to either snap easier or not hold an edge as well.

[Basta]

That might be an issue with a blade that is already heat-treated, but this steel blank is not. In the fifth step I harden and temper the blade, after which it would be iffy to machine-grind the blade. The friction heat increases the temper, softening the metal--though it would be impossible to make the blade MORE brittle without heating to orange and quenching...the hardening process.

[apod13]

it would be a good idea to anneal the blade a few times before you harden the blade though, to release all stress from the milling process of the steel and anything like getting heated up while being grinded

[jps42]

I actualy have made knifed befor my first knife was made in fourth grade I heated up piano wire with propane torch and hammered avously my dad watched me carefully also have globe airplanes for 6 years I have quitt of bit building experiance

[sharpsword7]

basta your knifes are awsome! Im going to make them for a camping trip!The only part that confuses me is the heat treating!please explain it more detailed and with more basic words.respond quickly-sharpsword7

[Mathias Re'eh]

sharpsword7 your not the sharpest are you? but your pperty sharp

[Basta]

According to your profile, you're 13. In my opinion this is a little too young to do a heat-treating procedure safely. Wait a couple years, and then give it a shot.

[rownhunt]

(removed by author or community request)

[jps42]

how wide was the blade

[knifepyro]

how long does it take to sharpen the blade

[naruto the ninja13]

could you make one with a saw blade on the top? i just think it would be use full as a survival knife you know make it strong enought to split light enough to throw at furry food things and stuff like that

[Basta]

yes--the process of making a serrated edge is similar to file working, with the opposite groves meeting at an edge in the middle of the knife's spine. Unless you mean an actual saw edge--all cuts would be lateral, creating gouges instead of serrations. It depends whether you want something like you see on pocket knives (serrations) or on wood saws (saw edge).

[naruto the ninja13]

will the both cut wood because i want one that will cut wood

[Basta]

Only the saw edge will saw through wood but that's typically not a job for something knife-sized. If you look at a saw, you'll also notice that the teeth are angled away from the saw body--this is so the cut is wider than the width of the blade. You'll have to figure this into the equation if you want to make a real saw.

[Rasengan]

You guys should check online metals.com instead.

[Rasengan]

Hey, drij, i priced a sheet of 1/4" x 36" x 6" O1 tool steel at mcmaster.com, it's $105 per sheet. I'd say that's a bit much, unless you plan on making plenty and plenty of knives.

[lmuli3]

awsesome design it'd be great if you made more knives

[danoliveri]

how long should i make my blade?

[Basta]

For a first blade, anywhere between two and five inches. Also keep in mind the legality of certain blade types if you're planning on using the knife in public--I know that anything over three inches is illegal where I live.

[sharpsword7]

Were do you live?Is it near santa rosa?

[Basta]

Read the instructable carefully. I live in Maine. The instructable says so. It also answers all of your other questions. I don't think you should undertake a project like this quite yet. You don't seem experienced enough. Give it a few years. For now, please be careful and don't hurt yourself trying to do this. It's dangerous.

[sharpsword7]

me and my dad are already 89% done

[sharpsword7]

when u trace it on the steel wat do u cut it out with

[sharpsword7]

wat do u clean it with

[Basta]

If you read the instructable carefully you'll see I used a fine-toothed hacksaw. I recommend bi-metal blades.

[sharpsword7]

u rock !were did u get the idea to make a knife?

[Mikie-z]

Do you freehand or do you use a ruler? random question i guess

[Basta]

Both where each is necessary.

[sharpsword7]

how do you put a picture on were the silhouette is?

[i_build_stuff]

i got 1 last question about the hardening in oil how much fire are we dealing with. and does the oil bubble or splatter cause burning oil is no joke and i can be as careful as possible and still end up burned. How long does it take for the fire to go out? i may be worrying over nothing but please understand my (and my mothers) concerns. btw i cant thank you enough for your help :)

[Basta]

It's not that much fire and the oil doesn't splatter. It's really just the surface that lights, actually, and it goes out in about 30 seconds on its own.Wear gloves, eye protection and use tongs or long pliers--you should be fine. Make sure you do it in an area where fire isn't an issue (outside, preferably at night so you can see the color of the metal. Use at least 2 quarts (1 liter, if you prefer metric) of oil so that it doesn't overheat when you quench. And keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case. Good luck, and don't worry about it. Hardening is really a very tame procedure.

[sharpsword7]

when I let it cool in the air can I just lay it on bare ground?

[danoliveri]

for making the edge should i use a bench grinder or angle grinder?

[Basta]

I think it would be easier to use an angle grinder or, even better, a belt grinder.

[sharpsword7]

for the drill can I use a drill press?

[KenMN2010]

Would a bench grinder still work for most of extra stuff untill you get down pretty close to the edge?

[slydark]

IN my experience a bench grinder doesnt work anywhere near as well as either a belt grinder or an angle grinder. In further experience I have noticed that a belt grinder with a wider belt (say 4" wide) doesnt work nearly as well as a thinner, longer one (say 2" wide) I have used a wide belt grinder, a thin belt grinder and an angle grinder to make the bevels (edges) and any and all of them will work acceptably well. If you plan on using a belt grinder, try to find a good aluminum oxide belt, instead of your standard sandpaper abrassive belts.

[the mechanical engineer]

is 01 carbon steel considered low, middle, or high carbon steel?

[Basta]

High carbon. Low carbon steel is unsuitable for making knives.

[sharpsword7]

im making this knife with my dad for heat treating is there a place u can go because my dad helping me with the dagous stuff and how much does a forge cost

[sharpsword7]

Thanks! for all your information. O and if we don't have the money is there a place you can take it

[Basta]

Okay, as long as you have somebody helping you, that's fine. You can make a bare-bones forge out of bricks with a hair dryer or shop-vac for an air supply. A real forge will cost at least $200, and that's if you find a used one at a swap meet for cheap. I suggest the brick forge. If you're interested, I recommend a book called Custom Knifemaking by Tim McCreight. It has info on forges and heat-treating. Heat treating involves heating the blade to non-magnetic heat and letting it cool on its own several times, and then heating again to non-magnetic and quenching in automatic transmission fluid (ATF, from auto stores). After that you clean the blade, and put it in an oven at 425 degrees Fahrenheit for an hour. That's heat treating.

[sharpsword7]

how long is this project going to take

[sharpsword7]

after u heat treat it wat do u do to make it look nice

[the mechanical engineer]

cool. thanks alot. i asked my ag teacher and he said he had never heard of 01 carbon steel, so ill prolly just look for high carbon.

[sharpsword7]

how much will this cost just guess

[Basta]

It depends on how much you have. Just the materials, about 30 dollars (USD). Bare-bones equipment, 100 dollars. What I have: several years of gradual tool accumulation that I have almost no idea of the cost. You don't build a coal forge to make a single knife. You do it because you have an interest in metalworking and you plan on using it your entire life.

[sharpsword7]

how much will this project cost

[JKibs95]

Electric mandolin NEEDS its own instructible

[the_mad_man]

shiny...

[reddutch]

hey I was just wondering if you where using the can of water for cleaning or for cooling the iron or maybe not at all. cheers, reddutch

[matrix43547]

That is one shiny knife

[DV Customs]

Yesterdays projects, finished the boot dagger today. Real white marble on top of a layer of brass, makes for a heavier little guy. Razor sharp, it bites deep.

[ironsmiter]

Gotta ask. I don't see rivets through the marble. and it doesn't LOOK like jewelry style stone setting.... so what epoxy did you use to bind the marble onto the brass? I have a slab of onyx that I want to use for a handle... but question the structural integrity of the slab, after drilling for rivets(my traditional method of handle attachment). It's be great to know how to attach the flawless stone, securely :-)

[DV Customs]

In addition to my 1st answer, I would suggest that you have the guard and pommel attached 1st, that way you will have 3 sides to hold you material securely on. I'm not sure how thick your material is but another way I like to secure my handles are with torque screws. Put a bit of crazy glue on the screw threads so they don't come out, then drill the heads just enough to round the counter sink. Then pearls would set off your Onyx. I would like to see the finished product when your done.

[DV Customs]

It's almost like your traditional way but just short of coming all the way through.I refer to them as hidden pins, I also scar , gouge, up back of handle and knife real good for epoxy to grab hold of. I use 2 ton epoxy, never had a problem yet.

[DV Customs]

Here's a set of match daggers I just finished.

[AnarchistAsian]

woah....

[DV Customs]

This latest project done, made from a solid piece of all alum for handle, only loose part was guard that is a single piece, counter sunk to hold chain. and the blue pommel of course.

[bounty1012]

wow, thats freaking awesome.

[DV Customs]

you need to read my instructable
how to build a hiddentang knife
and thank you for your comment

[fallenspirit123]

truly a masterpiece!!

[AnarchistAsian]

nice

[Kasaron]

A cool way to get a pretty decent knife. I wish I could get my hands on some good tool steel around here, though; I'd be forging up some real decent blades.

[jacobzman]

cool

[jacobzman]

kingh looks cool ther was no maks all you cold of go a frend to tack the image so you can have two hand on the tool I'am not tring to be mean at all

[The 11 year old kid]

Very helpful! Thanx to is it Basta who made this if it is nice job

[Firebang]

On www.mcmaster.com, I priced an order for a 1 meter x 150 milimeters x 3 milimeters bar of 01 Carbon Steel. The price came out to close to 100 dollars, and I believe that's USD. Do you know of any cheaper metals that won't corrode? I don't mind having to sharpen the blade every now and then, but it needs to be able to hold an edge somewhat well, and be pretty strong but flexible. It all depends on the temper, but I don't want to have to coat the spine with clay and fire it like that. (The Japanese did that to heat the spines slower, so the spine would be more flexible than the rest of the blade.) Also, for the handle, would you recommend a hickory or ash wood, instead of Purpleheart?

[Basta]

First: you don't need that much stock. Instead of a big plate, get bar stock. 30-40mm in width should be fine--and a meter in length is enough for about 3 or 4 average knives. I wouldn't get more than that to start. Also, you should get thicker stock, I'd recommend 4-6mm. 3 is too thin. To answer your actual question, don't use anything but actual steel to make knives. Titanium and stainless steel can also work, but they're more expensive than carbon steel. You seem to be asking for some kind of super-alloy--resistant to shock, corrosion, wear and tear--such an alloy doesn't exist. Go with plain O1 or L6 carbon steel. Ordering short bars should lower your costs significantly, too. Last, I don't recommend either hickory or ash. They're too soft and not very pretty. At the bare minimum go with maple. My favorite woods are cocobolo, purpleheart, ebony, cherry, and most of the rosewoods. Be careful, wear safety equipment, and exercise common sense.

[Firebang]

But, wouldn't it be more cost-effective to buy a large plate, instead of multiple small plates? Costco taught me one thing, buy things in bulk. For the 4-6 mm, is that because it would be less breakable, or more to work with/room for error? I think I will go with Indian Rosewood, it has a nice color and some variety, with the darker rouge and the light brown.

[Basta]

Yes, bulk buying saves money--but if you but big plates you're going to go through your savings with the money you'll be spending on hacksaw blades. If you want bulk, buy long bars the width of your knife. The 4-6mm thing is so that yous have deeper, more forgiving stock to work with. The end result will be nicer, heftier, and less liable to break. Plus, you can use steeper, less precise grinding angles and still make something great. Thin stock can make a good knife, but since beginner hands won't be doing precision-grinding, use stock that can take a mistake or two. And Indian Rosewood is a great choice.

[Firebang]

Thanks. I've seen some great bladesmithing done from old files. They would be 01 tool grade, so the metal wouldn't be a problem, as long as the length is good. Would you recommend that (I have acess to both the files and the bar of steel)? So I would want to start off with shallow grinds only if I have experience, then. And the grit of the grind disk, would that matter? I would think that coarse would take more off, but that means that I would have to try and erase the scratches with a finer grit, right? I got the idea from a jewellery box one of my friends made for his girlfriend.

[Firebang]

Idea for the wood, rather.

[luckyone]

im 13 and my parents are divorced so i can talk my dad into helping me make one because then my mom wont nagg on him

[mr.space]

no offence, but, was there any point saying that, other than to show off?

[Firebang]

Heh, 'cause having partents split up is something to be happy about...

[luckyone]

good point what i ment to say is NICE INSTRUCTABLE!

[ndelurey]

If I could only use one, which would be better: an angle grinder or a bench grinder?

[Nebraska G]

Go with Both and experiment!

[redback7]

Im 13 and wanting to make this knife but i dont have a forage what do i do?

[milamber]

u can
a) use a brick tipe (weber) bbq with a fan of some sort ading oxigen EG vacume cleener hair dryer etc
b) make a realy hot camp fire
c) make a forge
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-forge/
http://www.instructables.com/id/How_To_Make_A_Bladesmiths_Forge/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-small%2c-practical-forge/

http://www.instructables.com/tag/?q=forge&limit%3Atype%3Aid=on&type%3Aid=on&type%3Auser=on&type%3Acomment=on&type%3Agroup=on&type%3AforumTopic=on&type%3AforumTopic=on&sort=none

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZeRtF5t44

[tevers94]

This summer I plan on making a few different designs so thanks for this instructables. Also is there any stores I could drive to to get the metal

[Basta]

You're welcome. And no, there are no stores. Try mcmaster.com.

[tevers94]

ok thanks just wondering, and ill try mcmaster

[archer1232]

Another way to get high quility carbon steel is to use saw blade. The kind of saw blades you would put in a table saw. The steel is really strong and holds a great edge.

[the mechanical engineer]

is there a website or place where i can buy the materials?

[Basta]

knifekits.com or mcmaster.com

[the mechanical engineer]

thanks

[Creator of Weapons]

I always wanted a knife to make some stuff.I'll probably not be able to make one in the City XD.Thanks for the info though :D

[Bender is great]

I made this on my own.

[AnarchistAsian]

wait wait wait, carbon steel... won't it rust easily?

[thepelton]

Carbon steel does rust easily, but holds an edge better than stainless. It's a tradeoff. You want a sharp knife you have to keep cleaning and oiling, or a stainless steel one that might cut butter?

[AnarchistAsian]

yeah...

[DV Customs]

I perfer Damascus blade in the long run. This one has a 7.5" blade with a cocobolo wood handle and all the rest is made of solid brass. One of a kind.

[i_build_stuff]

thanks i think im ready to get on ith my knife i got my sketches and im going to order my steel thanks for your help and ill be sure to be very careful.

[Basta]

good for you, be sure to take pictures when you're done.

[i_build_stuff]

So i should be able to do the hardening and annealing in my charcoal grill right? And what is the file test exactly (shown in pic 10). also do you know where i can get some tongs or whatever you use to grab the hot blade or will a large pair of pliers work?

[Basta]

No, not your charcoal grill. A soft coal fire or a really, really hot wood fire will work. The file will not bite if your blade is successfully hardened, but will bite if it is still soft. Big pliers are fine but for god's sake be careful.

[Country dude]

is there a certain fin ness of hacksaws like with sand paper or sand

[Basta]

There is--most common are the coarse, medium and fine types, measured in teeth per inch of blade. The fine one is something like thirty or thirty-two, which is really the only kind to use for tool steel. Also, invest in the bi-metal blades, they'll last twenty times longer and cut through steel almost like it's wood.

[slydark]

along with this question about the type of blade youre using I have a couple questions. first, is that a really beefy jewlers saw that youre using? or different type of hacksaw that I dont have?
Also, in the picture it appears that y dont youre using some kind of diamond cutting, or incredibly fine rounded blade, is that so? or is it just as you said above, a bi-metal blade?
thanks so much. this is a great instructable, Im a bit sad I didnt find this before I became wholly invested in forging knives, as this seems a bit quicker (even if you get to pound steel! =) )

[Country dude]

Thanks man

[bowmaster]

Can you use a angle grinder for all the shaping?

[Basta]

Yes, I did.

[bowmaster]

Thanks, I am saving up to buy some steel and make a knife with a rubberized plastic handle and kydex sheath.

[SinAmos]

Before I finish reading your instructable. Thanks for the idea.:)

[general-Insano]

what would be a good type of steel that is durable and takes longer to rust? such as stainless steel or tool steel?

[Basta]

O1 is best. There's no magical elf-smelted alloy that will stand up to incredible stress, time and lack of care like the legions of bad fantasy novels would have you believe. If you're going to use a heat-treating service instead of doing it yourself you can use stainless steel, but I habitually dislike stainless. If you want rust-resistance, try stoobers' advice below--sand the blade to about 220-320 grit and stain it with gun blue. If you want strength, D2, but it's harder to work.

[DV Customs]

Lot of the parts have to be done free hand, but the all wood one you see is Cocobolo wood done all by dremel.

[Aklash, The hunchback]

wow, that is all i have to say

[DV Customs]

I have to many pictures to list, one day I'll like to put together a book of knife pictures.

[DV Customs]

I appreciate that, it's a hobby that went wild !!!!! All for sale, have to buy more material for more knives...

[Aklash, The hunchback]

if my mom(im 14, my mom generally wont let me buy knives and i dont really have any means to get around her) would let me, i would totally buy one of those, they are awsome

[DV Customs]

I don't believe you realize the cost of a custom made knife. Factory's use punch presses to make knives by the thousands, They can produce a knife quicker than I can just sketch out a idea. may take me 2 or 3 days. lol and I don't sleep so your talking a easy 40 hours work.. Some slip by about $75.00 but normal is starting at $125.00..... Remember that I custom make these and there are no copies. All my knives are one of a kind. Collectors items. My personal collection is bigger than some cutlerly knife shops. You are 14 years old, I have over 40 Years behind me.. lolol brings back memories...

[temp]

I'm fourteen and I could easily have $125.00 in a couple of weeks. So don't dis on us future generational people. By the way, I really like your knives but find them a little too "flashy". That's just the way i feel but i think the one in the top left corner is mad sick! But the handle doesn't really match the blade in my opinion. The blade appears to have a "worn" and "been around the block" look whereas the handle seems like it's made out of recently polished chrome. I still think they're cool though.

[tahirhh]

I'm 14 too, but personally I think it's unhealthy to have a knife like that at my age. What the hell would you use it for anyway?

[temp]

camping or to "show off" he he

[DV Customs]

THESE ARE VERY DEADLY WEAPONS AND SHOULD BE TREATED WITH RESPECT, ANY GIVEN MOMENT THEY WILL BITE YOU AND HAVE NO REMORSE ABOUT IT WHAT SO EVER.

[temp]

i was just joking...=(

[DV Customs]

Didn't mean to offend you or any one young or old. The ones you may see were made to sit in or behind glass. They can and are fully functional, but that's why I build to suit... If you need a knife for camping and or skinning, no problem, I can do less............. Easy Just remove the feather......LOLOLOL All my knives come with a guarantee. Just need to know what you are going to do with it. You want a slicer? Or a Sticker? Or a thrower? Or a all around fast draw, every day weapon...

[temp]

It's all cool, It's all cool. I would love an everyday knife but my mom would most likely send it into the next dimension somehow...

[Basta]

Wow, those are beautiful. I love the look of the bowie, especially with the fluted grooves. Is that acrylic you used for the guard and details? Great filework on them too. Real filework is the next frontier for me, but so far I've done only the blade in this instructable, and the more I look at the blade the more rudimentary it seems...I guess that's how we learn.

[tahirhh]

The only Bowie I've heard has a first name called David

[thepelton]

The term "Bowie knife" refers to a very large style of knife used for hunting and defense by James Bowie, who died at the Alamo in the early nineteenth century.

[DV Customs]

Yes, I agree, and your point is?

[thepelton]

I wished to give the history for someone who might be unfamiliar with it. I saw a Bowie knife show up once on the British version of "Antiques Roadshow."

[tahirhh]

Is there an american version of it?

[thepelton]

The Bowie Knife IS the American version. Somehow, one showed up on an Antiques Road Show in England, and piqued the curiosity of the Brits.

[stoobers]

Yes, the Bowie profile is American. I don't see what the point is, though. It isn't pointed enough to fillet. It isn't thin enough to stab. It isn't "steak-knife" enough to eat with. It isn't fat enough to "ka-bar". It is too long to conceal without a permit (in California). God help you if you try to defend yourself against a bear. It is a blade profile that belongs in the past. Best to let is waste away. Look into the Japanese profiles of martial arts weapons, or just go to a nice restaurant and come up with a variation on a steak knife profile. A fat steak knife, made of pattern-welded steel or CARBON STEEL (German or American) would make a better knife than a Bowie. Maybe a "Bowie-steak" ?

[DV Customs]

Here is your steak knife, with a Japanese flare (Damascus) High carbon 1095 steel and nickel, it was folded 416 times and has a R.C. hardness of 58-60. You can see the grain work in the blade because of the nickel that was added. The handle is buffulo horn.

[DV Customs]

One item I forgot, Never judge a book by it's cover, or in this case, Never judge by the picture. Unless you have one of mine in hand, Please don't judge it next to a $39.99 store bought knife, My knives are built better, weight more, and will out do, out last, most store bought, mass produced, hunting knives. Unless you go up to a upper grade Real Ka-bar. Then you will pay more than mine. Then I would have to say, The Ka-bar is made for the jungle. My knives are custom made, for collectors, and they are One of A Kind Knives. They will hold their own against most. And I back them 100%. I build custom knives to suit the customer, Any time you'll like to order one just call.

[BillShatner]

I'm assuming you mean it has 512 layers, not folds. Folding a blade 512 times would be ridiculously pointless.

[thepelton]

True.  You would fold it nine times.  Each time would double it, so it would go 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128, 256, 512.

[DV Customs]

Yes layers you are correct, but 200 years ago samari called them folds for a reason.
 If you want, go to my instructable about how to build a hidden tang knife.

[DV Customs]

There is always a negative to every positive; Yes it's pointed enough to fillet, infact some scaples are shaped the same just smaller. Many shapes and styles of bowies. Some pointier than others. Thin enough, A arrow is 5/16 to 3/8 round with knife point, knife is aprox. 1/8" with knife point. Steak-knife able- Don't be to fast on that, I carved a roast with one. Fat enough to K-A-BAR Goes with last statement, If I had a choice of knives in the woods, A steak knife or a bowie, I think I would pick the bowie to defend myself against a bear, before I needed a steak knife to eat him. Concealing is all in Know and How, As to martial arts and Japanese, You must have missed The Damascus bowie, Made of high carbon and nickel, forge welded then folded over and over again. As much as you wish, The ones I Have in my collection have a minimum of 512 folds. Even when it becomes dull, It still cuts because of the folds. Bad part about a carbon knife in the woods, They rust with the smallest amount of moisture, Even treated against wetness, once you cut a rope (example) you just wiped off your treatment off. I have tantos as well as katana. Many katana have a curved point end like the bowie.

[DV Customs]

Of what? the knife or the history of the name?

[DV Customs]

THAT IS D.V. AS IN D.V.'s Customs iI like your logo mortal combat isn't it?

[tahirhh]

LOL

[DV Customs]

I'm trying to put together a HOW TO BUILD A HIDDEN TANG KNIFE. Should be very interesting, Due to the fact that I have never seen a knife built the way I build Mine. Heavier,Stronger,And I have tested mine with a hammer. Sounds crazy, but made a better knife the next day.. Yes it was acrylic, 1st and only one I did in that fashion so far. You missed my Black Italian marble one.. Sweeeet.. you can go on ebay or online and type in Dragon's Venture will take you to the home of D.V.'s Customs...

[DV Customs]

If you would like to see file work and / or bowies just ask. My stainless are rzor sharp with 440 stainless, other than that I Go Damascus and try to keep the folds over 220. I perfer 412 with a RC of 59-60, even dull this will cut you like you never been cut before. And the grain patterns are alsome....

[DV Customs]

Next venture I'm going to make my own katana. I'll use Damascus steel, folded at least 412 times no less. Should be a nice challenge. But for now I still have to sell more bowies and daggers.

[bounty1012]

very nice looks like a daedric mace.

[DV Customs]

Should see it's back up!!

[DV Customs]

Yes one is acrylic, guard,spacer,and pommel. just a venture I tried. I once made one of black Italian marble. beautiful

[i farted]

my knife i just made is good but im not done cutting it completely i still have to even the handles and sharpen shine ect. im going to make a perfect circle on the end of the handle soon, but i cant because im grounded. im going to post a pic.

[i farted]

yea i do were eye protection (goggles) and gloves. i also like to use ear plugs so i cant hear the loud noise.

[i farted]

i made another knife today i used my dremel but for some reason the cutting blade got completely filed down. (the balde went from big to small) does anyone know why this happened?

[Basta]

that happens with all abrasive discs. You have to replace them often. Please wear eye protection using a dremel--I recently got a small piece of metal lodged in my eye from doing just what you're doing.

[i farted]

(balde)= blade

[DV Customs]

That buffing is a job that needs all your attention, I have got plently of parts thrown back at me. I even had a blade fly across the room and stick in to the wall behind me. looked cool but scared the wits out of me for a second.

[i farted]

Thats a pic of the knife i made. It was hard, it took me 4 hours just to cut out the blade. Im getting better and soon ill make a really good one.

[i farted]

my first homemade knife

[i farted]

What is a dremel dv customs? can it cut metal like 8X24 (22ga)

[i farted]

im using stainless steel. It says 8x24 (22ga)

[Basta]

22 gauge? You're using stovepipe steel less than a millimeter thick. It's unfit for making true knives. Please be careful, this is dangerous work.

[demolsher502]

I'm trying to find what kind of metal to use. Would 1018 steel work well?

[DV Customs]

1018 would work, very soft steel and will rust at a blink of an eye.

[DV Customs]

I was impressed with your knife I thought you might like to see a couple I've done recently.

[Basta]

Wow, those are nice. I like the metal-turning on the handles especially. Not to be be nosy, but I just got a belt grinder this month and I'm still trying to figure out how to do a nice, uniform edge grind like the one on the dirks and bowies in your pictures--do you freehand it, or is there a specific method you use?

[DV Customs]

I do a lot of file work and freehand with a dremel, I can show you more if you wish.

[DV Customs]

I mainly do them on a lath, I do metal handles as well as exotic woods. Cocobolo,east India rose wood,snake,bahama cherry diamond wood,etc: I also do free hand, little bit of it all. I sell premade handles and accessories as well as complete knives.

[thedog458]

may i just say that you tack grate pics that t a good the way the blade sits on the log with the snow all around its amzing

[Basta]

Thanks!

[mmh]

Excellent instructable. You show a lot of helpful steps and the end critique is even more eye-opening as to just what can go wrong. I'm just starting an interest in knives, mainly to cross my woodworking designs for my canes with fancier techniques. I was surprised how much patience and workmanship is required for knife making, much more intense than pure woodworking. Keep up the good work. Maybe we'll see you with the likes of the Masters of knife making as featured in the Darom books on custom knives.

[Basta]

Thank you! I always like comments like this--they give me inspiration to keep learning instead of just spiting my mistakes. I hope I'll see some of your knife work when you do it, I'm sure it will be great.

[LoneWolf]

(removed by author or community request)

[Basta]

Wow, great job! Those look remarkably like factory knives, very successful, especially for a first try! What's more, you went the extra yard with injection-molded grips and etched the blades with factory brand stamps--is there a metal etching instructable I'm unaware of? I'm afraid that such an excellent craftsman as yourself needs no help from people like me; in fact, I'd appreciate any tips or suggestions you might have for my own work.

[LoneWolf]

I can't think of any tips in specific but you could ask me a question anytime

[LoneWolf]

Here's one thing-If your looking for good materiels go to the scrap yard or dump and look in the metal section-the metal I used for these were high quality and there were like 5 blocks of them just laying right there each one 2 ft. by 1 ft. And I'm not sure if there's an metal etching instructable- I learned to etch metal from my cousin Brian

[LoneWolf]

Oh by the way if you need any materiels look in the scrapyard first-you can find a lot of nice stuff there, especially chunks of metal

[LoneWolf]

And don't put yourself down I learned most of the technique from your instructable!

[Basta]

Relax, I realized it was a joke, I'm just being facetious.

[DAVEDIY]

i have some old round draw knifes I want to sharpen. What is the best place to to read about the proper technique to sharpen your knife? There is alot of info out there, but I need a one stop learn all with good pictures and resources to buy stones, types of stones etc. any help is greatly appreciated.

[Basta]

Just google "drawknife sharpening" and you'll get several good results. Stones aren't difficult, try Norton stones. I'd get a double-sided combination oil stone for general purpose sharpening. There's not much else you need to start out.

[FaqMan]

This is great not great but beyond great the knife you made is even better then want even professionals make it is full of craftmansihp and you give us a ible to do it. Thank you this is something i'll try to do.

[yukiyama]

I have recently started building my second knife(first was a complete failed) I only started it because I was very board at work. I work at a hotel and we had some used bed frames that we where throwing away. I have sharpened many knives in the past so I know what a good material feels like and the bed frame was already the size I needed (or close to) and it was ridged enough to be good at sharpening. I was building my knife with raping it in a tennis racket wrap but after this presentation I'm going to give it to a co-worker and build another one using a wood handle

[pyro13]

Nice! Is your name by any chance from a book?

[Basta]

Yes--Inkheart, I believe. I didn't read it but I did see the name, and liked it.

[comander01]

Coincidentally, your namesake is a killer that was read out of a book. His trademark weapon is a knife. Coincidence? I think not.

[pyro13]

Hm true, even his picture fits.

[comander01]

How do you know? Is Inkheart a movie, too?

[mg0930mg]

NO,but it's going to be in two weeks! I want to see it!!!

[mg0930mg]

Well, there is a movie coming out!

[Basta]

No but I skim though a lot of books.

[jdubaya]

for the quenching for 01 steel is used motor oil ok?

[Basta]

go out and but yourself 2 quarts of automatic transmission fluid at the auto parts store. not more than 6 bucks. that's the stuff you need.

[volquete]

thats a great knife!

[jdubaya]

where did you get your rivets from?

[jdubaya]

hey for the filing do you have any other designs or are those the only ones you came up with?

[jdubaya]

hey i was finishing the knife for the first time and i was sanding, i could almost see my reflection in the knife but there are alot of scratches. does it just take time or am i doing something wrong?

[Basta]

You're progressing through the grits without fully sanding out all the scratches from the previous grit. To make sure you do this, sand with one grit vertically along the blade, then for the next grit sand horizontally across the blade until all the vertical scratches are completely gone. Repeat, switching from vertical to horizontal sanding with each successive grit. After this you shouldn't have any scratches.

[opolskafani]

how long have you been making knives and how many have you made

[Basta]

I don't know, maybe four years and some where between a couple and a dozen. Depends what you call a "knife." Keep in mind I don't have four years of experience. I have four years of sparse instruction, great interest, and constant hobby work, only some of which is in knives.

[mdj817]

When you're annealing, what temperature should you let it cool to in the open air?

[Basta]

Below tempering temperature at least. That means cool enough to touch. Some people like to let the blade reach room temperature, but I think that's unnecessary. I just leave the blade spine-down on my anvil and let the heat bleed out, takes about 5-10 minutes.

[jdubaya]

hey basta I need a little more help on this knife making stuff. for the steel is ground steel OK for this knife? and also is Multipurpose Oil-Hardened O1 Tool Steel the stuff I'm looking for?

[Basta]

McMaster's ground steel is a surface finish and yes, it's the kind you want. 01 is one of the many possible types of steel you can use.

[jdubaya]

thanks i wasnt sure what to use

[jdubaya]

hey basta I am going to work on this knife project but I can't find anywhere that has carbon 01 steel. any like actual stores nationwide I can find it in? I would also much appreciate some more knife designs and file designs because I can't find the right "style" for me

[Basta]

For steel: McMaster-Carr. Actual stores are super-difficult to find, finding one takes a combination of hard work and serendipity. There's no nationwide tool steel superstore, and if you live in Kinsey, Alabama I can't name the nearest distributor off the top of my head.
For design inspiration: Jay Fisher's knife designs. If you can't find something you like, invent something.

[AnarchistAsian]

uhh... this is just me, but...

www.onlinemetals.com is a good site and www.mcmaster.com is another good one...

both i have used to get materials like sheet metal, or sheet plastic and they're pretty good... ^{you usually have to get stuff like this online...}

he had a "bowie" style knife, if you want like a crazy awesome ninja kind of knife, then it's a "tanto" blade... Read this wikipedia page, and look through the different knives, i guess....

[oddblob]

beatiful knife, and I admire your patience in going for a mirror finish
however, the polishing wheel is The most dangerous tool you will use in making a knife
Even if you sand the with the blade edge 'trailing' in the other direction from the rotation of the wheel, it can still grab it and fling it across your workshop, or, if you are unlucky, into you.
http://tidewaterblacksmiths.net/5.html
look at the one about the wire wheel (they behave in almost the same way)
ouch

[Basta]

Yeah, the polishing wheel is a really dangerous piece of equipment (though I'd say it comes in second to a good, powerful belt grinder), but I'm confident enough in my ability to use it properly. I think as long as you exercise good judgment you should be fine. The guy in your story was unlucky, but the most important thing to do when you're grinding or polishing is to hold the work so that it will come out of your hands if caught--not drag your fingers into the machinery--and stand so that if the work does jump away, it's not likely to hit you. That and safety gear helps.

[AnarchistAsian]

what if you slapped the knife in a vice, then used a dremel with a buffing tip?

[Basta]

It's possible, but it would take a lot more work and a lot of extra buffing tips. If you learn to use a buffing wheel properly, it will save you a lot of extra time, effort, money, and other valuable things.

[AnarchistAsian]

oh, it's cheaper? i thought a polishing wheel would be more expensive... i already have the dremel, a buffing tip is only 2 dollars...

[Basta]

A buffing wheel is only about 8 bucks for a good canvas one. Of course, the machine itself is a little more expensive, but I consider it a once-and you're done kind of thing, you'll have it your whole life if you do it right. it's just much easier to work with a wider surface and stronger motor in the buffing wheel than the dremel. If course, if you don't feel like making that biggish initial investment then you're fine with the dremel tool, it will just take a little more work.

[AnarchistAsian]

oh, ok, thanks, i'll just uhh... stick with the dremel and see how it goes, but right now i'm making coil guns, and stuff, but eventually, i'll make a knife...

[potato wings]

on that link for knife designs wat is urs called

[Basta]

That knife isn't on Jay Fisher's page. It's my original design. I would have you copy the design on the drawing step but sadly I modified that plan to be longer and that actual scale plan doesn't exist any more. The knife is at home and I will be there after the twentieth--shoot me a message or write on my board then and I'll take the measurements for you. The whole design fits nicely on graph paper lines so if I can I'll upload a picture. Won't be fit to scale but you should be able to see from the dimensions how to copy your own template.

[potato wings]

thanks i really need u to send my something on how to do the drawing and the measurements would be great thanks.

[ninja of darkness]

nice AS man wicked knife can you email me a couple of designs just as a base for mine I'll try this ASAP! you should consider making Instructables for other weapons

[Basta]

Thanks. I don't have designs plotted out for my knives, but there's a staggering wealth of info out there on the web. People, don't be afraid to do some research for yourselves. For knife designs, try Jay Fisher's design page: http://www.jayfisher.com/Custom_Knife_Patterns.htm
He probably has the biggest stockpile of knife designs I've ever seen in one place, something for every taste.
And as soon as I make anything else, I'll post something about it. Do I have any support for a butterfly knife-making instructable? That's my next project.

[ninja of darkness]

ok I will try the link and YES you hve my support for the butter fly knife idea also how hard is it to make switch blades?

[Basta]

I've never tried to make any sort of folding knife let alone a switchblade. I really don't know what the internals look like, but I'd guess they're complex and small will little tolerance for error...if somebody's made on out there, let me know! I wouldn't recommend it for a beginner. I'm making a butterfly knife because it's a simple mechanism and has all, if not more of, the stigma that a switchblade carries.

[pop2012]

when you finish your butterfly knife could you post an Instructable of it?

[Basta]

I actually don't know if I'll be making a butterfly knife any time soon--I'm at college now and there's no way for me to use the shop. I'll be home for a month over January break and I'm making a pair of push-daggers then. If I can I'll document the procedure and show how to make identical blades, how to turn wood and possibly how to form the blank with a proper belt grinder.

[ninja of darkness]

:( oh well thats too bad tell me how would you go about shaping a round pice of metal?

[Basta]

The same way as a flat piece of metal, but with more grinding.

[ninja of darkness]

ok thanks and i have an idea for a switch blade (it's kinda basic thou)

[volquete]

post it!

[goeon]

get a mtech folder model CEMT30 loosen the screw

[goeon]

(removed by author or community request)

[potato wings]

im a bit stuck on the drawing part could somebody plz reply and help me to draw the knife and i want my knife exactly like basta's

[im so thirsty]

were u get the forge dose a grill work

[Basta]

But it online, at a swap meet or build your own. You definitely can't use a grill.

[im so thirsty]

how much does the metal cost

[Basta]

McMaster Carr has steel. Five to ten bucks to make one knife.

[tibbaryllis]

something that is fun to play with when making blades involves the hard/temp process and taking a note from extremely well skilled cultures. One of the single greatest features of GREAT knives/swords involves a hard edge that holds an edge well but also a good strong body that is tough but bends rather than breaks. A fun technique (taken from skilled katana makers) is to, after you get your blade all ready to be fired up and heat treated, cover any part of the blade that you do not intend on sharpening with an even layer of clay. Then do all the steps as listed. After dousing in the oil bath, simply break the clay off and proceed the oven.

[apod]

where else can u get this kind of sheet metal?

[drij]

You can get O1 tool steel (and a variety of other carbon or tool steels) online at www.mcmaster.com -- they're a little more expensive than a specialized steel distributor, but they'll also just sell you 1 sheet and you'll have it in 1-2 days.

[apod]

thanks so much now i can actually do this project

[knifebringer]

hey i'm using this technique for a school project but i'm making the handle out of twine for a different look. i cut out the blade and it looks great. i'm putting the handle on tomorrow and maybe i'll put up some pics. i just wanted to say thanks cuz this'll make an awesome history project. and yes i got permission to bring it to school lol

[Basta]

Great, you're welcome, and thank you for the comment. Definitely post pictures when you're done, I'd really like to see how the project worked for you.

[knifebringer]

okay i just posted a slideshow of the knife. tell me what you think.

[ansion]

there are ways to prevent the rusting. the other bonus of any steel that isn't stainless is that it is much easier to sharpen than stainless.

[halogirl]

sweeeeeeet

[KenMN2010]

Could you clarify on the homemade cinderblock forge (how should i arange the bricks)? and what did you use to start the fire?

[SG1Oniell]

you should do a custom knife business, I might buy one. As, some of us don't have the tools, or the time, you could make quite a bit of cash out of this. Also, how long did your blade last before it had to be sharpened again? I always look for that durability in knives so thats why I ask.

[Basta]

Thanks, I'll take it as a compliment but I'm not really in the position to start a business like that...however much I'd like to, I don't have the time, and I'd really need to get more skilled at knifemaking to do it. I'll keep it in mind, though, maybe in a few years when I have the means. The edge is still sharp. I haven't done much work with the knife, but it seems to be very keen and tough. 01 is a good type of steel to see in a knife.

[aku1524]

hi where you get that steel plate? is hard to find?

[Basta]

Read the other comments; you'll see a ton of places I've already recommended for you to find stock. Look in the phonebook. Finding steel where I live was a royal pain. As Firebang says below, you can probably buy steel from most welding shops.

[nunvikingsofthesea]

Im having the same problems, where can i find o1 tool steel in canada?

[Firebang]

Go to a welding shop, and they will sell a couple of unfinished, untreated slabs for like 20 bucks.

[Basta]

I don't know, I had enough trouble finding it where I live.
If you look at the rest of the comments you'll see some of my recommendations; try industrial supply outlets, look in the phonebook...or try used sources, like old files or saw blades.

[finnster]

Great instructable!

[joekickass345]

i couldnt make it so i bought a forge samurai swordXD

[danoliveri]

where did u learn to make knives just wanted to know where this coming from

[Basta]

I learned from a blacksmith I know, as well as a few knife-making books.

[jokerarmena]

hey nice instructable! thanx. been meaning to do that myself but never quite gotten into. never thought it`s this simple

[danoliveri]

i dont own an angle grinder do i need one? if so were can i get one and how much are they?

[Basta]

You can get one at the hardware store for pretty cheap--the cheapest are about 20 bucks. I think mine was about 60 to 90, but I'm not sure, I got it as a gift. Think about quality when you buy. To answer your other question about the forge, there's a few ways you can do it. I have a real steel-pot forge but you can make a makeshift version from firebrick, cinder blocks/breeze blocks or concrete. The two important components of a forge's construction are its shape--you need to make a sheltered fire in either a deep pot or a covered cave--and its air supply. You can use a hair dryer or shop vac on the reverse setting. The air needs to be delivered to the heart of the fire either by pipes or by your arrangement of bricks.

[danoliveri]

if i dont have a forge what can i use?

[demolsher502]

All in all, how much did this cost you to get all the supplies, and how much did you already have? And is D2 tool steel good?

[Basta]

About 35 for the steel, 10 for the wood, 10 for grinding wheels, 5 for hacksaw blades (bimetal), 6 for oil--remember, though, there are a lot of things on the side that you may or may not have and may require a big initial investment, like a forge. I had the forge, the angle grinder, and the finishing supplies already. Keep in mine also that the materials I bought are probably enough to make four or five other knives. In other words, it varies how much you will spend. D2 tool steel is great for knives, though I've heard it's a little harder to work than 01. I wouldn't worry. Also check the quenchant you are supposed to use, as all steels are different. I think you may use warm brine for D2, but I could be completely wrong.

[AnarchistAsian]

this is my most very favorite instructable ever! also the hardest...

[ak13]

Are you supposed to do a little bit of finishing before tempering? (ya know, in order to remove the scale)

[Basta]

A lot of knife makers do, but personally, I don't see the point--I'll sand it off very lightly just so I can see the tempering colors when the metal is in the oven. The metal is so hard at that point that I find much finishing impractical, and you risk breaking the steel in its brittle state.

[god_gave_knex_to_you]

wow now i know what i want to make this summer

[Mr.Bean]

pleeeeeeeaaaaaaaase post an instructable for an electric mandolin!!!!!!!!!!

[laci37]

The best tool to cut this type of steel is plate shears.

[Basta]

That may be true, but I'd take a five-dollar hacksaw blade over a two-hundred dollar bench shear. I wonder if a small thing like that would work, or if the tool steel would wreck it.

[laci37]

Yes, I speak easily with four old plate shears... My family have collected everything over 60 years or so.

[ak13]

(removed by author or community request)

[notker]

both nice but I think the smaller one löooks better i don't know why...i like them

[ak13]

and my girlfriend picked out the design...

[ak13]

The smaller one I did second, so I it was a little bit more thought out. I was able to see what worked and what didn't, if you go to the larger picture you can see that the blade doesn't go all the way back, so it can be held at about the middle with the pointer finger and middle finger on either side of the bevel

[ak13]

oops, deleted it by accident

[Basta]

Wow, great work! I like the riveting pattern on the top blade. Which type of steel did you end up using?

[ak13]

It is a high medium carbon steel. The steel yard I went to didn't have labels as to the grade, so I took a chance and tested it to determine if it was medium/high or even carbon steel. I figure these two will help me get better at working with the tools, and getting used to the process. If I enjoy the knives after this I will make more, and be more particular about the steel. For starter knives I thought this would be just fine.

[notker]

Where can I get some steel in Austria? I didn't find some. PLS HELP!!

[vincek49]

uncle did this with a rebar and without the oven part and real old fashion tools... oh and great work the knife its just absolutely ... ummmm, well anyway its great

[shinigami502]

Just for clarification, you heat the blade and let it cool on its own about three times before heating it again and quenching it in oil, right? And you heat it with the edge up?

[Basta]

Yup, that's it. You heat with the edge facing up so that it's in the cooler part of the fire--otherwise the edge would heat too fast and burn away.

[lophare]

you know i was thinking about it and it would probably be easier to use a oxci-cetaline torch to cut it out with

[pooboy]

i have a really nooby question to will the blade rust?

[schmidty]

put some rustoleum on it and it wont

[Basta]

If you don't take care of it, yes.

[ninjaclerk]

Wow! That is awesome. I've got some high-carbon leaf springs from an old pickup truck that I want to form into a crescent-shaped blade like a scimitar. Granted, it will probably look like poo, but I think it will be a neat thing to hang on the wall once I'm done. Keep up the good work!

[newman8668]

should i do anything different to make a kukris??

[Basta]

Nope, it's pretty much all the same concept. Just cut out a khukuri shape instead of a straight knife.

[loki95531]

I did almost every thing you mention here but I did it with a 12 inch bastard file.Well two of them really .One with wood (oak I think,found stuff )scales and one with leather scales.I didn't think about the epoxy though.Going to have to go back and update them.They are both plain dagger style for throwing.Not polished even.I left them rough(smoothed down the file teeth some) because I just abuse them any way.I want to make another one so i have three.I think I will try to document the process. I just found this site and I think I like this place a lot. :)

[loki95531]

I figured out the picture thing so here you go with pic whether you want it or want it ;)

[Basta]

Very nice! I really like the look of the grind on the bottom blade. Very aesthetic, practical, slim design. Keep up the awesome work!

[sgt.paper]

can you help my make a knife thats cheep easy and doesnt require special tools

[Basta]

No. You need commitment to make something like this, and that includes both putting effort into the project and using the right equipment for the job.

[blademaker]

Nice, I was taught to temper the edge to straw color and only the back of the knife to a purple. But it all depends on what you want.

[Basta]

Yeah, I should have differentially tempered the blade, but somehow I just skipped over that part of the process. Next project, certainly.

[newman8668]

how might we make a sheath

[Basta]

As is says at the end of this guide, my sheathmaking instructable is now up:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-a-Sheath/

[newman8668]

and how would u mnake a sarated blade

[Basta]

The filework is decorative. To make serrations, mark out your spaces and file the serrations such that the depressions are symmetric respective to the spine of the blade, not staggered like my filework. File at a steeper angle, and go deeper, until both sides of the serration meet in the middle to create a sharp edge.

[newman8668]

y did u make the grip at the top of the blade

[Yellow84]

I made one of these for your Grandmother.

[Basta]

Well...thanks. I think.

[Jesusjuice917]

can i use my fire place as a forge

[Basta]

No. Use a forge as a forge.

[joekickass345]

i got my dremal!! i cant wait to make this!!

[newman8668]

do u have to make a wooden handle

[Basta]

No, you can use almost any material imaginable.

[lilel]

Can I use a hacksaw to make a chakram you know like the one on the show XENA: WARRIOR PRINCESS if you dont know its a metal circle frisbee weapon.

[Basta]

I assume you mean the hacksaw blade as the stock itself? Yes, but it would take some bending and a difficult hardening procedure.

[armyboyzahy123]

ill buy it

[Th3Ob3rst]

Hi! I had a little question: what type of oven did u use? A common cooking or something more specific? Sounds nooby but I actually can't understand that... Thank You!

[Basta]

I just used the oven in my kitchen, which is about as common as you can get. All you need to temper a blade is a heat source that can keep the metal at the right temperature for about an hour. Some people temper using hot oil, like in a fryer. It's really not too technical.

[Th3Ob3rst]

Thank you very much! I'll try!

[ak13]

About how long does this whole project take? Could I bang everything out on a Saturday...?

[Basta]

Short answer: no. Long answer: this process takes time, especially if you do it right. You'll need to spend a lot of time gathering everything you need for the project and then actually doing it. As a general rule, anything done hastily won't come out well. I spent weeks on this knife, to make sure everything I put into this project was done with care and consideration. Read the intro for this project. You make a knife because you want something you can be proud of, something that you've spent a great amount of time and effort on to create a lasting artifact. If you want a knife for no other reason than to have a knife, and if you want it in the amount of time you're thinking of, go to the nearest army surplus store and buy one.

[ak13]

I couldn't figure out what grade steel to get, in aisi grade should I shoot for 1060 to 1099 (high-carbon steel). I didn't really know what 01 meant... I'll post pictures when I start making progress

[Basta]

Your choices are on either end of the high-carbon spectrum; 1060 is the lowest you can go without becoming medium-carbon steel (which is still acceptable for knives) and 1099 is bordering on ultra-high carbon steels--very hard but not too durable. I'd use 1060. Also, you'll want to quench that type of steel in warm water or brine, not oil.

[i_build_stuff]

im not sure about the steel i found this site http://www.metalsdepot.com/index.phtml?aident=
they have a couple things that look right but im not sure under carbon steel plate they have A36 steel but in another category they have tool steel like 0-1 which do i get

[Basta]

A36 is an air-quenching steel and O1 is oil-quenching--that's the main difference. For a beginner I'd recommend O1 because of its workability and forgiving nature. You can also follow the heat-treating instructions here to the letter and nothing will go terribly wrong.

[i_build_stuff]

thanks i wasn't sure all i need now is cash, lots o'cash $$$

[joekickass345]

hey can u use a mini grinder it look like a solder iron but it a grinder i dont know the name but could u use that because my mom wont let me get a angle/bench grinder and where do u get a plate of steel? thanks this is a perfect guide and could u email me or send me a comment thanks my email is [e-mail]

[Basta]

I'm assuming that by mini grinder you mean a dremel--these are acceptable for making knives, but it will take you longer and it'll be a little more difficult. As for steel, check out the other comments on this page. A lot of people have the same question. For commercial steel try a tool supply outlet--but if that's not available, you can scavenge steel from any kind of saw blade or file, leafsprings, or most other tools.

[ak13]

I got a few blades from a lawn mower repair place, but you need a very long lawn mower blade to make a decent 9" knife. There is also a slight torsion in the blade, that is why I decided to go out and buy some. Tried using a dremel.... it takes foooorever

[jjay10]

see i live in Crowley,LA and cant find any spring steel

[Basta]

As red_metallic says below, lawnmower blades are a good source of steel, as are old files, circular saws, leafsprings, and many other things. I think that if you live in Los Angeles, though, there's bound to be a steel supplier near you. A little searching on Google (or Google Earth, which, as I've said before, is a must for any craftsman) will yield some results. Most places will be willing to sell you steel in small amounts, unless they're giant industrial warehouses.

[Wolf Seril]

Lawnmower blades! This is very helpful- people give away broken lawnmowers all the time on Craigslist. I assume I would have to detemper them. How would I go about doing that?

[Basta]

To detemper the blade you have to heat it up past the tempering temperatures with a forge or torch--about to a dull red glow--but you can go higher if you like. Then just let the steel sit until it's cool. After that it's ready. Just a note: if you're using really bent/formed blades, you might want to flatten them first. Heat them to orange and hammer them straight. If you don't have a forge to heat the metal, you can use a very hot wood fire, though it will be harder to control the heat or get it as hot as you want.

[jjay10]

thanks

[master-of-chaos]

wonderful, well made and good instructions

[Wolf Seril]

At most hardware/home improvement stores they have hot-rolled (sometimes cold) welding steel. How well would that work? I don't really have any other place to get steel.

[Basta]

That welding steel is in all probability mild steel, which has very little carbon content. This makes it unsuitable for making knives--it can't be heat-treated. What you need is medium- or high-carbon steel. If there's no place to buy it near you, try to find a junk yard that's friendly to scrappers. You'll find usable steel in trucksprings, old saw blades, old files; in fact, any hand tool with a cutting edge is made from tool steel. You can also get stuff from auto repair shops as they will sometimes have "junk" that they're trying to get rid of. Little do they know that their garbage can be made into fine cutlery.

[smeata]

awesome instructable, in depth and easy to follow. im deffinitely trying this when i get some spare time

[trooperrick]

Could you possibly help me? I was using circular saw blades without detempering them. As this uses more time and energy and restricts you from using high speed tools I am going to on my next knife. Do you know what I should quench it in? it says "Made from high quality spring steel" This might be a nooby question but thanks for your help in advance.

[Basta]

Don't worry, it's not a nooby question at all. Your blades are probably made from 5160 tool steel or similar (nicknamed OCS...Old Chevy Spring). It's a common oil-quench type of steel that is excellent for making knifes and is especially well-suited for swords because of its durability. I've recently found out that automatic transmission fluid is, in fact, better to quench oil-hardening steel in than the motor oil I was using. I've looked around but there seems to be some wide disagreement about what is best. For you, though, any oil should work. Some people even use peanut oil. Apparently they like the smell.

[trooperrick]

Thanks for the fast, informative reply! I think I'm just going to use motor oil.

[Darkshot]

OOOOO i forgot to ask..can u use a blowtourch to harden the metal?? because i live in a suberban area and they get pissy about building a forge in the back of ur backyard >.< plz answer back quickly

[Basta]

I actually tried to use a propane torch with MAPP gas to heat this blade to a hardening temp, but I could only get to a dull red. The problem was, one, that the blade was too big and needed more heat than the torch could provide. Two, the torch wasn't the most powerful thing out there. That aside, it's absolutely possible to harden a blade with just a torch. I've seen it done. If it's a small blade and your torch is strong enough (a large acetylene/oxygen combo torch will take care of just about anything, but others will work depending on the size of the blade), go ahead.

[Darkshot]

eh i asked my dad if we had a tourch and he said i couldnt make it, im so disapointed -.- i had a design and everythin

[James (pseudo-geek)]

I learned to not ask, but simply to be safe on my own.

[Jake Turner]

Amen.

[Darkshot]

i didnt ask O.O he wanted to know what the blow tourch was because im a pyro and he gets afraid when im around fire

[jakezcop]

ha ha! my parents are scared of me... they dont even ask anymore! i just do what i want! lol! plus im only 13! ha ha!!!!!!!!!! MORE EXCLAMATION POINTS!!!!! sry...

[James (pseudo-geek)]

oh haha.

[survivor569]

have you heard the trick of sharpening the knife along the top of a car window? just wind the window down a little and run the knifeblade over the top. it really works well!!!

[Basta]

I haven't heard of that trick, but it sounds like it would work. Something akin to a sharpening steel, except it's tempered glass instead of tempered metal.

[survivor569]

yeah. as most people use leather to finish the blade i wouldnt as it actually blunts it a little, best to use a window after the leather for a razor sharp blade. by the way, have you thought about adding a guard/bolstetr to your knife?

[Basta]

I has a bolster planned for this knife but couldn't find material. For my next fixed-blade knife I'm going to make a forged blade and a forged guard.

[survivor569]

sounds good! be sure you make an instructable for it! ill send you some pictures of the knife i made if you like?

[Basta]

Sure, post them on this board!

[the_intelligent_pickle]

i have a quick question, where do you getthe brass pins?

[Basta]

Hardware store.

[aaronscottaugustinhotmail.com]

nice :) i make homemade knives and i sell them online in varous places such as ebay and this is a very good instructable. But for foraging the knife I recomend a butane torch NOT PROPANE propane doesn't get hot enough to heat treat (process of sealing the pores) the metal. And be sure to use welding gloves and a set of channel locks or vise grips.

[Basta]

Thanks! I didn't use propane--that canister you see is MAPP gas, which is more powerful (but not quite powerful enough for a blade of this size). I ended up using my coal forge because of convenience. I'd love to see some examples of a fellow amateur knife maker's work--do you have any pictures of your knives online?

[aaronscottaugustinhotmail.com]

ahh i dont unfortunatley right now but i will put some up :) i like to go with hunting or combat style :) and also mapp gas never heard of it how much is it and what does it stand for because if it works better than butane i want that lol

[Basta]

MAPP gas is basically a powerful alternative to propane. In Australia it's called RazorGas, I say this because some of the posters here are Australian and I don't know where you come from. MAPP comes in yellow cylinders similar in size and shape to some propane and oxygen cylinders, and can be found on the same shelf. It costs about twice as much as propane, but the power you get from it is well worth it--especially if you use it in tandem with oxygen, which will make a VERY hot flame capable of cutting steel.

[aaronscottaugustinhotmail.com]

btw a butterfly knife whould be cool

[the_intelligent_pickle]

cn something instead of a vise be used? any suggestions?

[Basta]

Not really--I mean, you can use a stationary belt grinder to form the blade and just move the blade with your hands, but if you're trying to grind with an angle grinder, you've got to use a vise. If you're worried about marking the blade by accident, make soft spacers for the vise with duct tape, leather or copper (this last one only if you're using metal, not wood).

[Jake Turner]

Wow. Just plain wow. Awesome Instructable. I'd love to make one of these for my dad, he's an avid hunter. And as luck would have it, I have all the tools to make a nice knife, except for a good heat source (really wish a blowtorch would work...). Is there any chance a really hot wood fire would work for the initial heating? I want the blade to be carbon black as I've seen with some KA-BARs, with the sharp edge being the only exposed steel. Can I pull that off by powder-coating the blade, before attaching the handle and sharpening it?

[abbabibble2]

you can use gun blue on most all steels (except stainless, i think) and you can get a nice even dark midnight blue/black color. Black oxide coating is another way but i have no idea how to do that.

[airem]

I would use cold gun blueing, finish the blade to the polish you want, clean it with alcohol or acetone to remove all grease / fingerprints and use cold gunblueing at room temp, at full strength ( do not dilute). Immerse the blade in the solution. In about 2 minutes check it it should be black. I will go through stages of blue to black. Rinse well and seal w/ wax based polish (butchers / turtle wax/ etc.) You can find cold gun blueing at most sporting goods stores.

[Jake Turner]

...Or I could look in my dad's gun maintenance box, since he blues his own guns. :D But I'll probably go to a store anyways, I need heat blueing supplies. Thanks for the input!

[ogorir]

I just thought of this... you could hot-blue or parkerize the blade, too, if you have a gun shop nearby. they should carry bluing and parkerizing kits. that would probably yield the best finish.

[Jake Turner]

I asked my dad for input on the mythical black blade, and he mentioned hot-bluing. So I may be doing that, since I want a pure black blade.

[ogorir]

Powder coating won't work. powder coat doesn't really adhere directly to the surface. It works by encapsulation, so any breach lets water, dirt, ect. get under the rest of the coating, causing it to lift. also, the water and dirt usually become trapped, causing corrosion. You might try a black oxide etch to achieve the result you're looking for. I've had mixed results with it, but the kits are usually inexpensive enough to warrant experimentation.

[Basta]

Okay, for some reason there's a weird link in that last post. Here's the other instructable I was talking about: http://www.instructables.com/id/Coke-forge-and-sword!/
He's got some good info here, especially if you want to make longer blades.

[Basta]

The wood fire would have to be REALLY hot, but it's possible. If you can,m mthough, find some coal (softwood, not briquettes); some hardware stores carry it, but that's kind of a gamble. It's easy to construct a makeshift forge out of cinderblocks and a hairdryer--see "Coke forge and sword" by [Tom] below. Coal is easier to work with as it holds better heat and can reach much higher temperatures. To answer your second question--I have no first-hand experience with powder coatings but I'm fairly sure your plan would work. If you have doubts (and you have the facility to do the coating readily available), do a test on a piece of mild steel before committing on the blade.

[Jake Turner]

Thanks for the link, the hair dryers are a very nice idea for air. I've decided I'm going to hot-blue my blade for the color I want. Also, my dad's pitched an idea my way for blade materials. He knows a guy who runs a sawmill (with the 4-foot tall blades made of carbon steel), and he'll be talking to him about possibly liberating an old blade. :D But he also suggested shaping a Bastard(brand name) file into a blade, since it allegedly uses high-quality steel. Any thoughts on that?

[Basta]

Wow--sorry for the late post, but I didn't realize you had asked this question. The sawmill steel blades sound like a great resource, one I wish I had. They'll make fine knives. Tons of people make knives from old files. They're a great source for steel, though they're better suited to knives because of their hardening qualities. Try to do some research on the type of steel you're using if you can, because different steels can use different kinds of quenching baths besides oil--water or even air. I'm guessing oil will work for you. One last thing--I've recently been told to use automatic transmission fluid instead of motor oil to harden blades, though there are different recipes out there on the internet you can follow for optimal success. Good luck with your project!

[Jake Turner]

No problem, I'm not impatient. Good way to handle things with this sort of work, no? That's just what I wanted to hear, because if I don't get one of those big circular sawblades soon, I'll be visiting the local hardware store to "get that Bastard". With any luck the type of steel it uses is printed somewhere on a box or the file itself. I've gotten a nice KA-BAR-style blade drawn out, I'm still playing with the handle design though. At the current moment it's as thick as the blade itself, with some grooves for finger shapes. Looks a bit big, but It feels good in cardboard form though. Thanks!

[Basta]

Glad to hear you're a patient one, impatience can kill a good project faster than anything else. Be sure to post pictures when you're done, whenever that may be!

[survivor569]

you got the sock from the tool supply? lol no i really like it. i might try making one this way. i made one once verry crudely with some aluminuim i found(i know what your thinking) was my pride and joy until i bought a real one. nice instructable, clear too. kudos!

[Basta]

I've made an aluminum knife myself, no worries! Good luck on your project if you do it.

[smithy813]

just build one out of sheet metal (16 gauge worked for me) and a length of black pipe w/ a hair dryer on it. you can use charcoal instead of coal too, just make sure it's real, not fake grocery store stuff.

[yomero]

wow man, recieve my standing ovation, haha, you've finally clear my doubts on rivet peening, a little question, how would you make a grip for a sword, you know, with a pommel, and if the blade has a groove how would you grind it and polish it, thanks in advance and kudos for the instructable...

[Basta]

This is tough--to attach a handle to a sword, you most likely want to make a sort of fusion full-tang through-tang. The tang will be a little thinner than the handle in profile, surrounded by two scales of wood and secured with epoxy. Wrap the handle with leather, twine or wire afterward. To see how they do this, watch this video: http://youtube.com/watch?v=cTg0Oc0mQy4.
Grinding and polishing a blood groove is difficult, and I wouldn't recommend it for a first project. Many medieval swords had blades with a diamond-shaped profile. You'd probably want to forge a groove, and then sand and polish it by hand or with a dremel. A lot of it is trial, error, and common sense.

[yomero]

thanks!, you've no idea how much doubt you just cleared right there just by linking that video, thanks... btw, how do you prevent carbon steel from rusting? i didnt know stock removal was also a good way to make a sword. thanks again...

[smithy813]

not leaving it outside always helps though

[Basta]

You can use a surface protectant like Butcher's wax, though this isn't permanent. The thing that will keep a sword rust-free and usable for a long time is regular care and cleaning. Stock removal is acceptable for making a sword, but for a stronger (and more historically accurate) blade, you'd want to forge the entire thing and grind minimally. If you're not using the sword to defend yourself and the ones you love on a daily basis, though, stock removal is fine.

[ninja of darkness]

oh and what should i do if i can't access a forge? (i live in australia)

[Basta]

I'm guessing you just need the forge for the hardening step? If that's the case, find somebody with a nice big heating torch (an acetylene-and-oxygen torch works best) and heat the blade that way. If you live in the country you can create a makeshift forge with just an outdoor fire and a hairdryer or, ideally, a hand crank blower.

[Darkshot]

OoOo- i wanna make one O.O I got the design already now i just need the supplys and i beleave i have the tools definatly a fav, and a plus keep up the great work

[red_metallic]

Nicely done and useful instructable! A great source for steel is an old lawnmower blade. Check the repair shops and they will usually give you worn ones for free. You can cut 2 large knives out of a single blade. Forging is certainly great and uses all of the steel vs. stock removal but anyone can build your knife with simple tools.

[spylock]

Nice work.

[gunny]

Good job but i perfer forming the shape of the blade in a forge using traditional meathods

[Mr. Smart Kid]

this is f******* sweet

[Wasagi]

Wow! Terrific instructable! How would I do this without a grinding wheel? Sandpaper? Btw, did you get your name from Inkheart? (+1, added to favorites)

[Basta]

You'd have to forge the blade if you didn't want to grind it, and sanding is really just about the finish--not completely necessary but a nice touch. Then again, you'd need a forge. There's no way to make good knives without first making at least a small investment, but people have found ways to make nice equipment like forges on the cheap (or for free). Yes, I got my name from Inkheart.

[diylyhbilly]

nice info and comments there a few people in the state of Texas who dont have to make knives. we find them in our own yards, some dig, but i wait till my animal friends digem up for me. They dont rust, they are be tween 10-18 thousand years old. bye!

[bitterwindsranch]

Great knife the fun part is making the sheath ahve you made one yet?

[Basta]

And the sheathmaking instructable is now up!

[Basta]

I've made a couple but haven't devoted much effort to making a really nice one. I've got an idea, though, so I'll try to take pictures of the process and make another Instructable, sort of a tag-along to this one.

[PKM]

Wow.. just wow. This Instructable officially rules. Now I really want to make one, especially after *just* finding a nice bowie knife (that looks a bit like yours) I loved and thought I'd lost about a year ago. I made a partial tang "tanto" a while back using a rough approximation to this technique, but it was made of a steel bar I found on the floor of my garage, a 12" pearwood branch from the tree in the garden and some coathanger wire "pins", by cold stock removal and finishing with no tempering. Your way is better :)

Have you experimented with.. I don't know what the proper name is, but tempering the blade of the knife to be harder than the spine? The way it's done on katanas that produces the wavy pattern, by half-covering it with clay and then quenching...

I'm also a fan of carbon steel- during years of getting through many stainless knives, I had an old Sabatier made of proper carbon steel (the blackish stuff that you could smell the acetylene coming off when it was wet) that never needed sharpening in about 10 years .

[Wolf Seril]

The clay isn't what creates the differences in hardeness. They acheive that by using two different metals. The clay has a different purpose, but I dont remember what that purpose is.

[Basta]

The clay does play the main part in the heat-treating process, actually. The blade is one contiguous piece of steel from the start, but the clay used in heat-treating changes the structural properties of the edge versus the back of the blade. The edge cools faster, producing a hard crystalline structure called "martensite," while the back of the blade cools slower and forms a structure called "pearlite," which is softer and more flexible than the edge. Maybe this is what you had in mind when you said the edge and spine of the blade are different metals. They are different STRUCTURES, but the same kind of metal, forged from the same stock.

[PKM]

Really? The way I heard it, the blade was one contiguous piece of steel (because it's been folded a number of times, remember). The clay covers the spine of the blade and it's then quenched in water- the blade edge quenches very quickly and becomes super-hard but slightly brittle, but the clay insulates the spine of the blade making it quench more slowly and therefore retain a little more soft/springiness. (Or possibly the other way round, I forget- the point is to quench the blade edge to be very hard, but keep the spine softer) That's the technique I'm thinking of, anyway- are you thinking of the type of european swords which were made by forging a very hard piece of stock sandwiched between two softer pieces and then sharpening the composite blade? I must point out I'm no expert, this is all from watching documentaries, reading etc, so I'll defer to greater practical experience.

[Basta]

I'm glad you liked the instructable! You're thinking of two different methods of tempering--this first is called differential tempering, and I (*cough*) probably should have done it on this blade. It's just an added step in the heat treating process where you heat up the back of the blade while keeping the edge cool, often by keeping the edge immersed in water or such. The goal is to make the spine softer, thus making a springy blade with a hard edge. The second method is a different process that, as far as I know, is unique to Japanese blades. I'm not completely familiar with the process but it is different than differential tempering, requiring a different set of steps instead of just an added one on the end. That distinguishing wavy edge is called a "hamon," and its design is almost a craft in itself.

[zjgz]

Great Instructable. haha, and I thought I was the only one who wore only one sock

[XEFrontier05]

I agree with commander

[Sarthex]

damn, that's one sweet tutorial (great knive btw) you should make a tutorial "how to make a battle-axe" now that would be sweet-sweet!

[Robotrix]

Really nice instructable, and nice knife too! I appreciate your up-front warning about how tedious this is. Last year i spent about three weeks making my first knife - a lock back folder. It went pretty well, but i didn't think about it as hard as i should have, and the blade is really thick. The whole thing is a little massive. v.good work!

[comander01]

Great Instructable. But for those of us who are just beginning, it would be nice if you made another telling how to make a forge.

[Weissensteinburg]

Wow, that's a really impressive looking knife. How long did it take you overall to make it?

[Basta]

Probably two months, but there were long periods where I completely forgot about the project. It should have taken me about a week or two of steady, light work.

[jackneset]

nice piec of work

[John Smith]

Really cool. Looks professional.

[kumo]

Hello, just a little trick for those of you who do not use power tools. Removing the scale out of the hardened blade either takes ages with sanding paper or is REALLY bad for your files. Then, dip your blade for a night in vinegar or lemon juice, and shazam!, scale out effortlessly!

[animal0307]

Ok not to bash the taping process, but I would not use duct tape it does leave residue unless you are careful... try painters tape or masking tape... other than that awesome job

[m1sterb0b]

Even if it does leave a sticky residue you can remove duct tape glue with some 99% isopropyl alcohol and an old terrycloth rag. Just take the Isopropyl and soak the rag in it then place it over the sticky residue then let it sit for about 5 minutes, then with the other side of the rag (it will still have alcohol on it but it wont have any residue on it, if its dried out by then add more alcohol to it.) and wipe off the blade. Depending on the kind of metal used you may want to use some sort of fine oil to condition the blade so that it wont rust after wiping it down with isopropyl, because isopropyl will cause(or do I mean promote?) it to rust.

[Basta]

Those would work, too. I didn't have any problems with duct tape, probably because the blade was polished. And as for sheaths, that might be another instructable. It's a very different set of skills you need, though, and I'm not quite as well-versed in sheath making as knife making. Try Google--there's a wealth of information out there. If I make a nice sheath for this knife, though, I'll post some stuff about it.

[fireandshadows]

If you want to make a sheath without any sewing, go to www.primitiveways.com (don't know how to add a link).

[weaponlover]

i have a question what shold the length be of the handle.

[slayer_x911]

very neat & great instructable, keep it up :D

[Vendigroth]

Great instructable, Basta! You went over all the important pionts in a clear and concise manner better than many could have done.

[BoomBoom123]

Ok, i just got a slab of 01 carbon, and im gunna make a hunting knife, thaks for the instructable. Ill show a picture when im done. Thanks

[Basta]

I'm glad to hear that--definitely post a link on this thread when you're done, I'd like to see what other people are doing out there.

[LinuxH4x0r]

Cool! Best knife ible ever! I was wondering if I could use an old file for my metal? Would that change anything?

[Basta]

Tons of people use files for their knives--just remember to de-temper it first, by heating it to dull red and then letting it sit until it's cool to the touch. Files are excellent for partial tang knives, because the rat-tail on the end of the file is the perfect shape.

[LinuxH4x0r]

Don't you want it tempered? Or is it too hard to work with if it is? Thanks!

[Basta]

Using tempered steel makes it harder to work with, yes, and usually friction from grinding will de-temper the edge anyway. It's a good idea to de-temper the entire thing and then heat treat it again once you've shaped and finished the blade. It also gives you more control over the process.

[LinuxH4x0r]

What if I don't have access to a forge(or nowhere to build one)? Am I screwed? I might be able to make one in a few months, but nothing too big. Is there some safe "benchtop" alternative that I could use in my garage?

[sirwilliamjr]

Google "one brick forge." I believe it's originally Wayne Goddard's design - I first saw it in "$50 Knife Shop," which is a great book. I used one with a propane plumbers torch, and had pretty good success. The size of the blade is obviously limited, though.

[LinuxH4x0r]

Thanks! looks promising, and very easy.

[chuckr44]

When you said we could use saw blade steel, did you mean like a crosscut saw (fairly thin though) or circular saw blade? Or something else?

[Basta]

I meant a circular saw blade. Cross-cut saw blades are too thin, yes, at least for my taste. Almost all saws are made from non-stainless tool steels, so go at it. There's a lot of stock in a circular saw blade, too, even if it's a little odd cutting knife shapes from circular stock and not a bar.

[jjay10]

Hey, nice knife did a good job on it and nice wood handle but where did you get the 01 carbine steel at ,cause i really would like to know

[toogood]

carbon steel not carbine steel

[Basta]

I can't give you names for stores--carbon steel is a rare item. Try Google and the yellowpages. You can also salvage perfectly good steel. Circular saws, leafsprings, old files, rebar and railroad spikes all make good blades. Get creative.

[rickw]

A truly fantastic instructable. Thank you for posting. Did you consider McMaster.com (mcmaster-carr) for steel? Not sure if the shipping to your neck of the woods would be prohibitive but they certainly have a great selection of steels. Consider posting some pics at knifeforums if you will. Those guys would appreciate seeing your handiwork as well. If you make a sheath I hope you'll document that process as well.

[Basta]

I try not to get materials online if there's another way. It's altogether inconvenient, but I will go online if there's no other way. Once I decide on a design for the sheath I'll post something, but I can't say how long that'll be from now.

[emattrose]

So about how long does this project take, altogether? I can't wait to try it, but I have very little time and was wondering if it would be possible to finish it over a weekend. Thanks for the great instructable! Oh and nice name

[Basta]

It really depends on how much you do. If you're making a blade that can be finished easier, like a small kitchen or hunting knife, it's definitely something that could be done in a weekend. Mine took about a month of on-and-off work, and the vast majority of that was spent sanding the blade in part because it was just so huge. There were week-long stretches where I didn't do anything, a lot of the time because I didn't yet have the right grit sandpaper. If you want to make the knife in a weekend, go for it--but commit to it and make sure you have a hardware store nearby!

[LMO]

Excellent job - this is everything an Instructable should be! As soon as I rig a heat source, I'll be making at least one of these and I'll post the product. Kudos!

[airem]

Here is some info for everyone on steel that may help in understanding what is the difference in steel types. American Iron and Steel Institute (AISI) codes start with a letter. O1 - oil hardening, W-1 water hardening, A1 - air hardening, L6 - low alloy, etc.
Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) have a four digit code. The first two numbers are the basic alloy content of the steel. The second two digits are the carbon content of the steel. I.E. - 1095 is a plain carbon steel no alloys and has 0.95% carbon in the steel. 5160 - low chrome (51) high carbon (0.60%). In the stock removal method (non forging) that is being used here I would start out using O1, 1070-95, 5160, or W1. Common steels found are old files - usually W series. Truck leaf spring - 5160, 1095. Sawmill bandsaw blades - L6. These are just examples of where to find steels. I personally would buy a bar to start just so you know exactly what the steel is. Good source for steel and knife making supplies - http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php
I hope this helps, personally I work in L6 and 5160 alot but I use a gas and coal forges and forge my knives and swords. So starting out stay away from the high alloys and stick to the 1095 and O1 as these are some of the most forgiving of the tool steels.

[TheInventor]

I am definately going to make one. Great instructable and keep up the good work! +1 Added to favs

[Lftndbt]

Very nice Instructable!

Can I ask though, you don't seem to be a fan of high grade SS. Is there any reason to that or are you letting beginners know that mild steel would be a good start.

What do you use to seal your blade? As I would assume it may begin to tarnish.

In case your interested, I recently began making some blades myself. This is my first. (stainless), I had this one professionally heat treated. As you would know, not a practical task at ones home. I only have a small forge running on mapp gas.

The best purchase I have ever made was a dremel. The cut-off wheel easily cuts most grades of stainless. Polishing pads arn't bad either.

Good work!! 1+

[Basta]

Thanks for the feedback! No, I'm not a fan of most stainless steels, at least to start. Also, if you look at most fine fixed-bladed knives, they are made of non-stainless high-carbon tool steel (most often D2, which is a little harder to work than the steel I use). By the way--I'm using tool steel here, not mild steel. Mild steel cannot by heat-treated and so is impossible to make a real knife from. I use Butcher's furniture wax for all my sealing, and though it works best on wood if protects metal as well. The wax comes in big, orange tins and can be acquired at any decent hardware store. Also--very nice blade you have there, especially for a first try. VERY good finish, too. I hope you continue making knives, as I'm sure they'll be good ones.

[Lftndbt]

I hope you continue contributing as you are obviously knowledgable in the area. Thanks for your comment on the blade.. and yes there will be more to come..

[animal0307]

oh yea and do you know how to make sheaths?

[animal0307]

all I can say now is that I'm making a sword

[eastie617]

Sorry I saw the answer in the comments already, Guess i should have check the comments first, i aoplogize

[Basta]

Don't be sorry, any question is fair game. The fewer serrations, I say, the easier; so a partially serrated blade will be simpler than, say, a bread knife. Good luck, I hope your father likes his knife!

[mrbonaparte]

sweet

[eastie617]

I was wondering is it possible to make the blade partially serrated? Well I'm sure it is so I guess the question really is how difficult?

[eastie617]

Great detailed instructions. This inspired me to start making a knife for my father to keep on his boat for his birthday. Thank you for submitting these plans and wish me luck! Its the great the way you explain everything so well, I've never attempted anyth