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How to Build a Knife

Step 6Finishing the second time: son of a...

Finishing the second time: son of a...
So you've finished heat-treating the blade, and you may have noticed some inconsistencies on the blade--namely, tarnishing, and if you're lucky, scale! Scale is that flaky stuff that formed on the blade when you quenched it during hardening. Lucky for us, though, it isn't flaky enough to just flake off. You'll need to repeat the same finishing process you did earlier, though this time you'll be going to a somewhat higher grit. You already know how to finish the blade, so get to work. Take your time, and be sure to get the scale this time--that stuff is pretty tricky. Go past 220 grit and continue until you reach about 350 or 400. At this point, you're ready to polish the blade. The polishing isn't strictly necessary, but I did it because I could and it also looks really nice. You'll need a bench grinder, a heavy polishing wheel and at least the black polishing compound (emery stick).

Attach the wheel to the grinder. If you're lucky you'll have an actual polishing grinder--the kind with a tapered screw to hold the wheel. If you're like me you'll have to take your normal grinder and make a spacer out of duct tape to keep the wheel tight. Either way, the polishing is about as self-explanatory as the finishing. One thing to remember is NEVER to contact the wheel with the edge of the knife in a way that will make the edge catch. This is bad and I'm not responsible for injuries incurred should you be this careless. When you have to polish the spine side of the blade, hold the cutting edge angled well away from the wheel. Be sure to get the spine and handle edges of the blade as well. When you're happy with the finish, you can proceed to the final step--making the handle.
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6 comments
Jan 17, 2009. 6:03 PMDV Customs says:
wow that looks dangerous, buffing a blade is the most dangerous part of making one. If that wheel grabs it going about 3,000 rpms it will throw it 2 houses away. and I notice you are holding a hand grinder with one hand and the blade with the other. I would recommend a small bench grinder and switch the wheel with a buffing wheel. But if you insist on a hand grinder, at least have a vice hold the machine so you can get 2 hands on the blade. just a thought.
Jan 17, 2009. 7:16 PMDV Customs says:
No offense, please don't be offended, just hate to see people hurt.
Jan 19, 2009. 2:47 AMDV Customs says:
No problem, just thinking about the 8 stitches I got with no machine involved, and the time my glove got caught in my lathe and almost ripped my hand off. Lucky for fast reflexes, just lost my glove and busted couple fingures.
Jul 27, 2009. 7:50 PMAnarchistAsian says:
wearing gloves? every machinist i've ever met has said that gloves are dangerous when using power tools or things like lathes...
Jul 16, 2011. 4:02 PMChicken Spit says:
Oh man, the bus mechanic I work with during school probably even sleeps with his blue nitrile disposable gloves. He wears them when he is opperating the metal lathe.
Apr 24, 2011. 10:37 AMBowtie41 says:
That was the firstthing they taught me in tech. school.They showed us lots of pics of people missing fingers due to gloves and rings.it's still stuck with me for 30 years.I may burn my fingers from a hot part,but they are all still attatched!
Nov 20, 2010. 8:28 PMspenfisher12 says:
yup they would just pull your hand in
Aug 21, 2009. 5:16 PMThe Ideanator says:
Exactly. Same here.
Jul 29, 2009. 1:43 AMDV Customs says:
I sent a picture of my glove along with some display stands, I keep it on a nail by my lathe for a reminder. lol
Jul 29, 2009. 1:37 PMAnarchistAsian says:
haha
Jul 27, 2009. 9:28 PMDV Customs says:
Yes they can be and I agree 100%. But when you're working with steel with sharp edges, the option to wear tight fitting gloves keep you from getting cut from material itself. My mistake back then was having my hand where it shouldn't have been. You learn from your mistakes.
Jul 28, 2009. 10:48 AMAnarchistAsian says:
By the way, how did you get so good at making knives?
Jul 28, 2009. 1:27 PMDV Customs says:
I guess every one excels at the things he loves to do. That with about forty years of dealing with them somehow. If you really like to build anything, all you have to do is shrink it down to knife size and don't skip on the tools as well as the materials. As we speak I'm in the negotiations of buying a new house/ shop so I can really get into it. Many people have made knives their entire life and never became any good, Some make a decent knife the 1st try, You have to have heart in what you do. So as I am done revamping my place to sell, I can relax and get back to the knives. I have a new idea of a design for a new forge. This way I can put out enough blades for my hobby and for my hobby to pay for it's self. Don't get me wrong, I'm not losing much, but consider leaper and electric. One to 2 sales a month at half appraisal don't take you over the top. Lucky I enjoy what I do, now all I have to do is sell for what they are worth and not just for more materials. Then one knife will feed a months worth of knives.
Jul 28, 2009. 10:06 PMAnarchistAsian says:
cool, good luck For some reason, i can always build or machine something way better than i can draw it... Have you ever felt like that?
Jul 29, 2009. 1:41 AMDV Customs says:
If you took a 3" square piece of steel, and made a 2" ball out of it, The time it took to machine it down, you may get the picture of ball done. Artist most likely feel the same about you. So you have worked with steel enough to make your piece, where as a artist went to school. Same,Same I find the really hard part is where you get writers block, Harder you try to imagine your new knife, the further it gets. When this happens I start to build display stands for my knives to add for a bonus. Table standing ones, glass door display for the people in need of a lock, ( kids ) also katana stands. Here are some assorted pictures of some stands mixed with some knives I did recently. I'll show you some display cases if you want, just let me know...
Jul 29, 2009. 2:03 AMDV Customs says:
here the pictures I was talking about
Jan 24, 2012. 1:43 PMpj63 says:
Im just starting to look into making some knives and swords. I can HONESTLY say "You Are An Artist Sir".. Your work is a thing of Beauty... Thank You for sharing..... Phil....pj63
Aug 23, 2009. 11:43 AMz-man6233 says:
did you use "gun blue" on the knife with the blued blade?
Aug 23, 2009. 1:01 PMDV Customs says:
Very good eyes.
Aug 23, 2009. 1:36 PMz-man6233 says:
was it hot or cold?
Aug 21, 2009. 5:23 PMThe Ideanator says:
Dude, what kind of steel is that with the wavy swirls all over it, and where can I get some?
Aug 21, 2009. 7:15 PMDV Customs says:
That is Damascus steel, a mix of 1095 high carbon and 1020n nickle. forge welded and folded 512 times, that is why you see the waves due to the folds. look up my instructable, How to make a hidden tang knife and you'll see more. If you need more information on it theres many books and articles on it. there are many ways to due certain patterns but no 2 are alike. you can buy finished or unfinished knives on ebay or any knife store that sells custom knives. I sell them all the time on ebay. Look me up on ebay ir you like, or write me @ xxrebelss@yahoo.com have a great day.
Dec 12, 2009. 10:43 PMspicymeatball says:
theres a preetty good vieo  explaining damascus blades http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tAIGM9UvaM
Aug 21, 2009. 9:56 PMThe Ideanator says:
Ahh, no wonder I thought I had seen something similar. Is that stuff really as good as its reputation precedes? If I had money to spend, I would totally buy a few from you
Aug 22, 2009. 12:00 AMDV Customs says:
Damascus can be some of the best blades around. The natural grin work in it can be as beautiful as a great piece of exotic wood. Each one is unique by it's self by not having a perfect match any where in the world. A properly made blade will run a R.C. of 58 to 60 which is dam hard, But at the same time you can bend one almost to a 90 degree and will not break due to the nickel content. There are many ways to fold and the billets to come out with certain patterns. Heat treated is certain solutions will give different colors as well as the depth of grain highlights. Will sharpen better than razor sharp, Will go through a 1" rope on a single pull. Even when dull, still cuts better than some due to the folds creating a micro serrated edge. There is so much to them that once your hooked on them it's like a bad habit , you will never get enough of. But BEWARE!!! there are many fakes being sold, many ways to etch plain steel to look the part, even if it was forge welded and folded, some people use junk steel and it will crack, snap, and even break in cold weather. We do have some of the best blades made right here in the U.S.A. As they become more popular, they will go down in price. I can give you some places to get true ones if you would like. Bring your check book, lol Most people that collect Damascus end up making their own. A few fire bricks, a torch, and a anvil&hammer. A good book would be Blade's Guide to making Knives by Joe Kertzman, or a dvd would be Basic Damascus by Ed Caffery. Either one will at least save you a bunch of money not buying fakes and junk. These will teach you simple questions to ask and things to look for. When your ready to buy, Let me know and I'll set you up with something you can afford. Take care and do a little research.
Aug 22, 2009. 2:52 PMThe Ideanator says:
You should make an I'ble on how to make Damascus steel. I would probably end up making something out of that before I bought anything.
Aug 23, 2009. 1:34 PMDV Customs says:
You may want to try your hands at just making a knife from plain steel before attemping to make a Damascus billet for a blade. Making a blade from regular steel is a project in it's own and not every one can do it. Even if you did have the means of forge welding a Damascus billet, and did acomplish folding it hundreds of times. The proper heat treating would make your Damascus completly different than regular steel requiring higher grade tools and bits. You will need a complete line of carbide bits and cutters, not to mention the machines needed. One bit could cost you more than the knife itself. Even if you did have all types of Industrial machines and cutters, you need a way to get your billet up to aprox. 1800 degrees.
Jul 29, 2009. 12:23 PMAnarchistAsian says:
nice, how dd you get that blade blue?
Jul 28, 2009. 10:47 AMAnarchistAsian says:
what if you just wrapped cloth around the part of it you were holding? just a thought...

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