Step 3: Trim Lumber

I wanted to present a narrow edge at the front of the picture, with the wider face positioned to cover the roughly 2" deep stretcher frame. (This scheme should become more obvious when you see my later assembly pictures.)

The edges on the boards were quite rough and the boards themselves were not square, so I needed to be sure to trim along the entire length of the board. To square the boards, I judged by eye which side was straighter, put this side against the table saw's straightedge and made a cut just deep enough to cut at least one blade width over the entire length of the boards. I then flipped the board over, adjusted the straightedge to to cut another blade width narrower and cut this side. By doing this, the two long edges of the board were now parallel and straight.

Make sure to move the wood smoothly through the saw, as pauses may allow the blade to burn the wood.
<p>Beautiful result. I like tung oil too. Hope you take safety tips in the spirit they are given, it's very easy to have a mis-adventure. Have fun, be safe!</p>
1. Your circular saw should have a cap over the blade to prevent the wood riding up and being thrown back at you - It happens and it hurts (I know.) <br> <br>2. It should have a riving blade behind the saw to keep the cut open - See point 1. <br> <br>3. Your saw blade is blunt hence the burning. <br> <br>4. Please use a push stick to push the wood through the saw rather than your delicate hands. <br> <br>Other then that a neat well written instructable. <br>
<p>You don't need a riving knife or a &quot;cap&quot;; You can use a sacrificial push stick in your left hand and apply pressure to the inside of the cut, pushing the cut into the fence. The waste will sit safely to the left, and you'll end up with a straighter cut. </p><p>A riving knife is a saftey feature to prevent kickback and is nice, but isn't necessary. It isn't even possible to attach one to some saws. Knowing what causes kickback, and being careful to avoid those situations will help a lot, with or without a riving knife.</p><p>Burning doesn't necessarily mean &quot;dull&quot;. Some woods have a tendency towards blade scorch more than others; wider boards that aren't planed flat and 90 to the fence can pinch, causing scorch; pausing while running the piece through the saw can also cause scorch. All kinds of things. </p>
<p>Thanks for the feedback! This was a learning project for me many years ago; now I have a much better understanding of the tools, as well as access to better ones. :)</p>
wow! awesome painting and beautiful frame!
<p>Thank you!</p>
Pro tip: <br>too keep your hands free of the whirling blade of death, use a push stick (I used to use a baseball bat that I squared off, good grip and nice flat edge)
<p>Yes, push sticks are the smart choice for those who wish to keep all their fingers!</p>
Solid instructable, but there are some issues with the way you're using equipment, that are probably just making more work for you. If you're having to clean up burn marks, you're doing something wrong. I'd check the manual to make sure but the most common causes of burning that I know of are: <br> <br>1. Dull saw blade. <br>2. Pushing wood too fast. <br>3. Saw blade alignment with the table is off. <br>4. Your blade is too high. <br> <br>If you use the right blade, like one for finish work, you'll find that the amount of sanding you end up doing is really minimal. Also, I would not risk my fingers like that. Use a pushstick for anything less than a handspan from the blade, especially since you're going to want to get it all the way through. A screwed up piece of wood is infinitely more preferable to screwed up fingers. You can buy or make a pushstick for a pittance.
<p>Thanks for the feedback! This was a learning project for me, and in retrospect you're certainly right about the dull blade and pushing too fast. I'd do it a bit differently now.</p>
<p>I wouldn't recommend drilling screws into the painting/stretcher bars, or even for that matter having metal or oil treated wood be in direct contact with the canvas. I mean, i guess it's ok if it's cheap art or something you don't really care about, but it's sorta disrespectful to the artists work. simple pine spacers along the frame could have made the painting float in the exterior frame better, and even, wood swatches to secure the back of the frame. I also, don't generally get the idea of just surrounding the perimeter of the canvas... for having access to a wood shop, you really ought to have boxed in the painting a bit. almost every painting frame will cover the canvas somewhat, I think this is a good demo of how to join the wood together and whatnot, but it's not a good example of a frame for a canvas. </p>
<p>Thanks for the feedback, this was a learning project for me. The frame is also designed to fit my tastes exactly. :) </p><p>Please post a framing Instructable, I'd love to learn how you'd do it.</p>
Very cool art and frame... maybe some detil with a woodburning pen would be cool... just an idea.
Ooh, neat idea! Thanks for the suggestion - will have to try it next time.<br />
I've always wanted a biscuit joiner. Do you use it often?
I don't use it terribly often, but when I do it's usually invaluable.
This is excellent, saved me a lot of time and a trip to the craft store for help. Couldn't be easier.
Places like Home Depot will do the first few steps of wood cutting for you. Sadly, it means having to use their commercial, non-special wood. Still good if you don't have the fancy tools.
Thanks, keep up the great work
Do you have an easy way of doing this without using some specialized tools. thanks. Nice work !!!!
You can easily get away without a biscuit joiner- just use finishing nails to connect the corners, countersink the nails (tap them in past the wood surface), and use putty to cover the holes. You could use a different type of saw to make the long cuts, but would have to be much more careful about keeping your lines straight. Does that answer your question?
That's amazing! How much was this "yuppy hardwood" you speak of; I may be trying this out after I get some form of wood working skill.
It was about $7-8/board foot.
Thank You. =)<br/>
very nice instructable... i will save a good amount of money now<sup></sup><br/>and nice painture, by the way.<br/>
mmmm.. I love the smell of tung oil.. It's a wicked finish. This looks great.
Thanks. Well done, good walk-through and photos.

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