Step 9: Assemble

Assemble the desk with bolts to hold the pieces together. set the concrete carefully on top, and add any drawer pulls, power strips, or other things to finish it off. Use zip ties to route wires.
Forthcoming Additions: diy light box build to light up fiber ends in different colors and patterns! also: pictures with less wire clutter visible.
<p>I'm looking for a computer desk but also one I can do soldering on. is concrete polish heat resistant or would the tinniest burn wreck the whole thing<br>? </p>
<p>what was the sealer and wax you used to finish the project?</p>
This project sounds like an interesting idea if one wants to have a desk with a polished stone-like appearance. I've seen this project a long time ago (about 1-2 years back) as well, but a question has popped into my mind only now: how much hammering would such concrete board/desk take? And would adding a thicker mesh improve its durability? What do you think?
Do you mean literal hammering? I have not done anything like that on this desk since I built it, but it seems very tough. Thicker mesh might improve the strength but I have not needed it just for use as a computer desk. I think too much impact would probably crack it but I am not really sure. There are other additives like polypropylene fibers and such that are supposed to really increase the strength and plasticity of concrete but was not able to find any locally when I built this desk.
<p>I can't tell you how happy I am that I found this! First off, great design overall and the details (extension, cables hole, glass color selection, etc.) make it that much more beautiful and functional. I'm living in Morocco, remodeling a rundown storage building and trying to find ways of applying polished concrete to the floors and countertops. I'd probably have to apply the concrete directly onto the existing concrete surfaces instead of making a mold separately. I know vibration is important. How exactly did you do this in your case? </p>
<p>Trying to patch a concrete wall or other surface is really difficult. If you want it to last, the fresh batch needs to be bonded to the underlying rebar. This requires jackhammers and expensive contractors to chip it that deep.<br><br>Applying what would be called a 'skim coat' just leads to the concrete cracking and becoming unbonded with the original surface, unfortunately. Maybe there are other ways of obtaining your goal?</p>
This is more akin to filling a nail hole in a piece of wood with putty than it is to repairing damaged building facades or freeway overpasses. The patches seem to have held well over the six years I've been actively using the desk, and are there only for aesthetics anyway. The best thing would have been if i had vibrated the mold well enough to dislodge all the bubbles at casting time, or possibly used a thinner mix of concrete to allow the bubbles to be removed more easily.
<p>You can use a random orbital sander without a sanding pad against the frame as a small vibrator and that will work for smaller projects. Even a larger sander would work, too. It may even be possible to use a reciprocal-saw without a blade against the frame as well, but I haven't tried that. It has enough vibration that I would think it would work, though.</p>
<p>Thank you, I'll give it a try! :)</p>
Yeah, I meant its usage for hammering stuff like you usually do in a workshop. Thanks for the tips though ;)
<p>400-500 Dollars, depending on the wood choice. This is assuming you have the woodworking tools to make the desk frame.</p>
<p>Hi! Thank you for tutorial! It's really inspiring. </p><p>I have a quick question that may lead to another question. :) </p><p>I'm quite interested in the glossy finish of the concrete surface. As from your instructable I understand that the mixture of concrete and acrylic substance is applicable for flat surface only. What should I do if the shape will be more organic? Like flattened big mango 200x200m? </p>
<p>it louks goud but i hav mine and chec out my pae if you watn mour. i no i am onley a smal giy but myn louk rilley rilley goud. i noe plees chec out my payge even if i onley hav liek enuff insdutraclbes </p>
<p>I made one like this, thanks for the advice on the type of sheets.</p>
<p>To help remove air pockets, you could use an electric sander without the sand paper, hold it at various points around the mold. </p>
<p>This looks awesome! I might just give it a try!</p><p>One of the first things I noticed in the pictures, however, is that Fox-body Mustang in the background. Nice job!</p>
<p>Instead of daisy-chaining the power strips, I really like the Fellowes 10 Outlet Split Surge Protector (Model FEL99082) - Safer and you don't lose an outlet! </p>
<p>this looks very interesting - i have a kitchen counter refurb and granite is v expensive...</p>
Windows 7 was my idea. Concrete Desk was yours. Congratulations. Beautiful job!<br />
&nbsp;So you're to blame for Windows 7. &nbsp;Widows 7 convinced me to give up and switch to Mac. LOL
i love you. :) ha ha
And Mac convinced me to quit and switch to Vista Ultimate.
I just switched to Linux on my own. lol
then that convinced me to switch to linux since that broke. I post a video sometime. remind me. basically, going to the grub menu, then choosing windows, it says &quot;Loading Windows Vista&quot; along with a progress bar, then when it finishes, the screen turns black and it sits there. I've let it sit for an hour before.
And the combination of frustrations from Linux, MAC, and Vista have convinced me to be very thankful for the stability of Windows 7 :)<br>This is probably my final windows operating system though, I refuse to operate off of a cloud. (Win 8 is cloud based)
It amuses me that 18 months on suddenly people are commenting on a lighthearted comment I made about Windows referring to their TV ad. It did end in LOL which I assumed everyone knows the meaning of. I still posses a laptop running 7 (I don't like the Mac version of MS office) and it crashes quite often.
switch to linux soon?
aside from instructables i use pen and paper.
Just wondering if you poured it on a piece of glass if it would have saved some time polishing it? I've considered doing my kitchen counters in a similar manner. Great looking result. Nice write-up and pics too.
Yeah that probably would create a perfectly smooth and shiny surface right out of the mold, if you can manage to shake all the bubbles out of the concrete. I definitely did not anticipate how many bubbles there would be or how difficult they were to get out of the poured concrete. Also, I wanted my embedded glass shards to show in the finished slab, and they were covered by a thin layer of the concrete when I unmolded it. The only way to expose them was a quick grind with the 50 grit polishing wheel. I saw on one of those shows on hgtv they poured some countertops but used a sheet of thin, hard plastic in the bottom of the mold and the countertop came out of the mold ready to go.
I've seen a thick Mylar (brand name) plastic used for glossy slick surface molding. Mylar is the stuff used for model airplane wings and body skins.
hivoltage, where did you buy your glass shards from? Or do you have any recommendations where I might find them? Thanks for your help.
I don't remember the name of the site, but google doesn't turn up anything familiar, so they may have gone out of business since I published this instructable. I found one site but the minimum order per color is five pounds at 3 dollars a pound<br> http://www.recycled-rocks.com/Glass-Gravel-p/gravel.htm<br>I believe I bought five pounds of earth tone mix and a pound each of extra green and teal for my desk.
there is a special sheet of plastic! is shiny and mostly used for columns that can give you a similar finish! also is easier to vibrate with a rubber mallet just hit the form with the mallet several times, this will ensure that all the cement goes down preventing air bubbles so the final product is even and shiny!!
Shiny? I could guess someone could use Polyethylene/Polypropylene sheet since almost NOTHING sticks to it- http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23655&amp;catid=705. It's also sold at retail hardware/home improvement centers as plastic drop cloth 4 mil. but this can wrinkle and I've never actually done it this way since it would probably not be very shiny.
That is one GREAT looking desk, great job! I so want to try this too. I'm thinking I might start with a workbench top.
Still waiting for the light box instructable and lit up and night pictures... <br>;-)
Great desk, I will be doing a countertop similar to this. How long did you leave the concrete before you started grinding/polishing?
where did you get the fiber optic cable im not finding any that isn't worth its wait in gold around here. i really like the idea of the idea of having stars in my counter top
its eg12 endglow cable from fiberopticproducts.com
thanks ill start on this when i get in to my new house
I have really REALLY been wanting to make a concrete counter for my vanity, and even though this is a desk, I think I could use a lot of your great info here to build me one! Thanks for sharing!
The desk is wonderful. Could you please give us your supplier for the Lyptus. Thanks.
Thank you! I bought the Lyptus at Peterman Lumber in Fontana, CA. One of the employees there incorrectly told me that it was a hybrid of eucalyptus and mahogany, but I have come to find out that it is really a hybrid of two different eucalyptus species. It is environmentally sustainable because it grows extremely quickly in Brazil and is not harvested from old growth forests like many of the other exotics. I mostly purchased it at the time because it is an attractive wood and the price was very reasonable.
Nice instructable but the support mesh should be on the bottom of the finished piece witch means the top on the frame, not in the bottom of the frame (top of the finished piece). And of course with enough space to be covered by the concrete.<br>I recommend to start filling the frame without the mesh up to 2/3 of the total height then place the mesh and finish pouring the last 1/3 of the concrete...<br><br>:)
That is a very cool project. I was looking for concrete polishing for floors when I found this. I have a client who handles big concrete floor polishing jobs, so I became interested in other applications. This is my client. http://www.concretereflections.com/
which compressor did you use to run that pneumatic grinder?

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