How to Build a Shed





Introduction: How to Build a Shed

About: Hi I'm Linn and on my Youtube Channel I have lots of great videos about building, construction and fun projects. You can also check out my site @

A shed is great addition to any property. This small garden shed measures 3 x 6 feet (a little less than 1 x 2 meters) so it's great to build if you don't have a lot of space, plus with some smart organization it can fit a lot of things!

Step 1: The Foundation

Building a shed is easier than you might think, and it all starts with your foundation. Now many of the steps that I'm doing here can be modified to fit your needs.

First of all I'm marking out the site, and digging down to remove any roots and get the ground nice and processed.

The area where I'm building my shed sometimes get rather wet in the winter so I want to make sure the water will drain away properly, so I'm adding gravel which I tamp down until it's level.

  • Level Ground
  • Add Gravel for drainage
  • Level pressure treated wood
  • Add garden fabric to prevent weeds

Step 2: The Base

For the base of the shed, I'm using pressure treated wood and I'm simply building a frame that I'm laying down on the ground.

Now I want to make sure the shed is really stable, so I decided to drill some holes in the wood and add some rebar into the ground which I pound down. Also, adding a little filter fabric is a good idea to prevent weed growth.

Step 3: The Floor

On top of the base I'm just going to add a simple 2 x 4 floor with the wood 12 inches on center. On top of the wood, I'm adding cheap 7/16" osb plywood with 1 1/2" screws. I happened to have some left over yellow oil paint on hand so I added some for additional protection on both sides of the plywood.

Note: when adding nails or screws to pressure treated wood make sure they are rated for it.

Step 4: The Walls

Next up is the walls, and like any project, making sure you mark everything correctly is key, and it's also a good idea to mark all sides of the wood, to make life a little easier for yourself and avoid mistakes as you put everything together.

I use screws for attaching the studs to the plates at first, and then add nails for additional support.

Once the walls were put together, I attached them to the floor, one by one by screwing them through the plywood into the floor frame, as well as connecting the frames together in the corners.

When I had all the walls put up, I added plywood with screws.

For the stud spacing I just added a center 2 x 4 so it is slightly more than 16" on center because it is such a small shed.

Step 5: The Roof

Once the floor and the walls were done, I'm designing the roof. I'm going to match the pitch of my workshop, so I'm going with a 4 in 12 roof which basically means it's about 18 degrees. So I make make my marks, and cut out the birds mouth angles with a jig saw. Once I had all the pieces cut up, I screwed it all together and added plywood on top.

A roof this small is easy enough to build on the ground and just lift up. It's a lot more comfortable doing it this way, if you can.

Once the basic structure is connected, it's a good idea to do a test fit and make sure the roof fits the structure,

Step 6: Shingels

I'm using some home wrap instead of tar paper for the roof, since I'm not climbing on top of it to attach shingles, so it doesn't matter that this paper is a little slippery. Here I also add the drip edge so that the rain water flows away from the building. After that I nailed the shingles in place and connected the roof to the wall plates.

Step 7: Home Wrap, Trim

To protect the house from moisture, I'm stapling on home wrap on all the plywood. Once the wrap was covering the house, I added trim on the sides and on the roof line. You can simply staple this onto the walls, but it is an optional step since I will be applying siding.

Step 8: Shingles

I decided to go with nice siding for my shed because I want it to match my workshop, however any kind of siding would work. This is a fiber cement product that is in most home stores. I attached it with screws to the studs underneath the osb sheathing.

Once the shingles were up, I used my spray paint gun to paint the whole house white with exterior paint.

Step 9: Conclusion - Watch the Video

For a much better perspective, make sure to watch the video!

Also, don't miss the next part - building a barn style door.



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    Where have you been all my life?!? This is great! Thanks for sharing your skills.

    When you nailed up your singles you nailed them too high; when they start to heat up and then cool down, the nails will become loose and the shingles will fall off.

    3 replies

    Yes, the shingles should be nailed approximately at the tar line - there should be installation instructions on the packaging or from the manufacturer's website. It also appears that there's no starter course, which probably isn't a big deal since it's only one shingle wide and there's no seam; BUT, depending on what method is used for a starter course (I trim the tabs off a three tab shingle) the starter course helps attach the lowest part of the first course of shingles via the tar strip. The way this roof was done the first course is hanging free and wind can get under it and tear it away. The other courses are probably ok if the tar strips have melted and bonded the overlapping layers.

    Anyways it's just a shed and it looks great! Kudos to you ~ Congrats. Nice dog too!

    Does this mean 1--the nails are too high = to lose to the top edge or 2--as it reads = the shingles themselves are too high?

    You are correct! I did some shingle work once, I was told to chalk mark about a /1/3 down i think? What is the exact place to nail again? Thanks for the reminder, as it will help with my project:) cheers!

    When I repaired/remodled an existing shed, I used quick cement between the floor studs to deter critters.

    Wonderful project...I am wondering, I need to make some wood gears for a wall project for kids...which meed to have magnets...and I need to know how to make them hold to the wall and still turn...any ideas? I guess I would have to put a block on the back of the gears with the magnet inside of that...? Anyway, I have subscribed to your channel...thanks kiddo...great work!!:) I am going to build this for myself.

    Awesome! What's the problem with adding nails/screws to pressure treated lumber? Can it crack or something?

    1 reply

    The copper compounds in the newer treated wood corrode "ordinary" galvanized steel screws like crazy! It is best to use stainless steel, or the screws will be gone in a year!

    Another thing to note, is that the newer "treated" wood (that is arsenic free) is mostly not rated for continuous ground contact. I would use the new "plastic lumber" at the bottom. Even then, termites could build tubes over the base (on the inside of the base, where it can't be seen) and into the floor and walls.

    Great job! One thought: while adding landscape fabric to prevent weeds, good idea to put a layer of metal "hardware cloth" to prevent critters from tunneling up from underneath.

    I started reading this, and I was like this looks like what Darbin would do. I had to scroll back up to check who wrote this. Awesome as usual

    Beautiful job... Just out of curiosity, how much did the materials cost?

    I see you use those great particle masks. I bought one of those and find it more comfortable and more substantial than traditional dust masks. Great shed too!

    It's kinda funny, but back in the day, contractors were somewhat reluctant to hire on anybody with a furniture or cabinetmaking background because they tended to be overly focused on they accuracy of the work- presumably they took too long to frame out a door or window, etc. Nothing wrong in taking as much time as you wish with a personal project like the shed though. ☺