Remove these ads by
Signing Up
Remove these ads by
Signing Up
Remove these ads by
Signing Up
PDF Downloads
As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format.
You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.
As soon as enough water is drawn into the soil, or evaporates, to create an air space between the top container and the water level the water will stop moving into the soil. While plant roots may eventually seek out the water, soil nutrients can't be transferred to plants in dry soil and your plants will suffer deficiencies. This build would, at best, make use of about 1/4 in of the available water.
There are a couple of possible remedies for this. A couple of larger holes in the container bottom could accommodate absorbent rags to act as wicks to transfer water. These should be long enough to extend to the bottom of the holding (lower) bucket and almost to the top of the soil. One could also cut an opening in the bottom of the planting bucket and install a basket to hold soil and then adjust the drain hole to match the height of the basket. Pond plant baskets or strawberry containers work well for this. I would suggest a landscape cloth barrier between the soil and water in either case to prevent plant roots from actually reaching into the bottom container.
Also, while fine for starting multiple plants, the 5 gal bucket is marginal for even 1 full size tomato plant. With varying sizes of storage containers available for cheap it is wise to go larger. The lower center of gravity of the storage containers may also avoid finding your plants laying down after a wind storm. In any event, secure them upright as much as possible.
It will provide you several days of water if you miss a standard watering. You should also use a diluted fertilizer with all container vegetables. The tomato will also root 100% into the stone an use every drop of water. There is not gap problem. Nature takes care of it.