Instructables

How to Build a Slayer Exciter

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A Slayer Exciter is an air-cored transformer that steps up a very low DC voltage to a very high AC voltage. This creates an electromagnetic field around the coil that is capable of lighting up fluorescent and neon light bulbs. It is fairly similar to a Tesla Coil.

The Slayer Exciter was the brainstorm of Dr. Stiffler and GBluer a few years ago. It has since been modified and improved, resulting in a community of people whose hobby is to revise and improve them.

In this Instructable, I will show you how to build a small Slayer Exciter and will also give an explanation as to how it works.

There are several parts that make up a Slayer Exciter:
- The power source supplies the voltage and amperage.
- The driver circuit takes the electricity from the power source and prepares it for the transformer.
- The primary coil creates a magnetic field from the electricity.
- The secondary coil converts the magnetic field back into electricity and steps it up to a much higher voltage.
- Finally, the top load acts as a capacitor, greatly increasing the strength of the electromagnetic field.

The whole project only costs about $15 and can easily be completed in a weekend. It can be used as a centerpiece for the dinner table that will "wow" any family members or guests. It is also easily transportable which can make it a great conversation starter if you choose to bring it to school or work.

Here is a video of it in operation!



--------WARNING---------
The Slayer exciter creates an electromagnetic field that may negatively affect electronic equipment in the immediate area; including pacemakers. Exercise caution and common sense when operating a Slayer Exciter.

 
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Step 1: Parts List

For this project you may need to do a little shopping. Luckily, everything can be found around the house or bought on Ebay. The total cost for the project can easily be kept under $20.

Items Needed:
-   At least a 6" long tube that's 1" in diameter, it must be hollow and non-conductive! I used a
     piece of PVC pipe. - ~$5
-   A platform to mount everything onto. I used the bottom of a CD case. - Free
-   Approximately 3' of 14 - 26 AWG wire. - ~$1
-   Approximately 100' of 30 AWG enamel wire. - ~$5
-   Some sort of round sphere to use as a top load. - ~$1
-   One 47,000 (47k) ohm resistor. - $1
-   Two UF4007 diodes. - $1
-   One TIP31C transistor. - $1
-   Screw terminals (Optional). - $1
-   Transistor heat sink (Recommended if exceeding 18 volts) - $3

Feel free to experiment with different transistors, most transistors should work as long as they are NPN type. However, if the transistor gets hot to the touch you may want to consider the TIP31C, the TIP31C should only get warm to the touch unless you exceed 18 volts. The resistor value can also be changed, it merely limits the current going into the transistor so a change of a few thousand ohms either way should not make much of a difference. If your transistor feels hot to the touch you may want to consider increasing the value of the resistor.

I would also recommend using a piece of pipe that's several inches longer than what is required, you can always cut down the pipe to the right size after wrapping the secondary coil.

Step 2: The Driver Circuit

This design is very simple and only uses four components! It is also very versatile and the input voltage can be as low as 5 volts or higher than 18 volts if the transistor is attached to a heat sink.

------THEORY OF OPERATION------

-   5 to 18 volts is fed into the circuit, a resistor (R1) is placed before the Base pin of the transistor in order to limit the amount of current the pin receives. If too much current is allowed into the Base pin the transistor can produce excessive heat and fail.

-   One end of the secondary (L2) is connected to the Base pin of the transistor in order to feed it with oscillations. The two diodes (D1 and D2) prevent the oscillations from going directly to ground. (Learn more about oscillations and why they're important, below).
 
-   The transistor is made up of three pins: the Collector, the Emitter, and the Base. If you were to think of the transistor as a garden hose spigot (See picture 2), the Collector would be the reservoir of water. The Emitter would be the hose and the Base would be the valve that would allow water from the reservoir (Collector) to the hose (Emitter). The valve (Base) is in the closed position (no water flowing) until it is given a little nudge. When it receives a nudge, the valve opens and a lot of water is allowed to flow from the reservoir through the hose as long as the valve is still getting a nudge. However, as soon as the nudge goes away the valve will close, cutting off the water from the reservoir to the hose until the valve gets another nudge.

-   When the Base receives a little bit of current, it closes the circuit and electricity is allowed to flow through the primary coil (L1). However, electricity likes to take the path of least resistance so when the electricity is allowed to flow from the collector to the emitter (~0 ohm resistance) it will stop flowing to the base because there is 47,000 ohms of resistance there. When the electricity stops flowing to the base, the base will open up the circuit again until the resistor offers less resistance than the Collector-Emitter path. This cycle repeats itself many times a second.

-   The primary coil collapses when the electricity stops flowing through it, when this happens, the secondary coil picks up the magnetic field and converts it back into voltage which gets stepped up to around a thousand volts in the process. The top load acts as a capacitor and increases the output from the secondary causing electrons in the air to become excited.

-   Finally, the oscillations from the secondary coil are fed back into the transistor in order to 'tune' or achieve maximum output from the Slayer Exciter.

Step 3: Making the Coils and Top Load

------THE SECONDARY COIL------

In my opinion, designing and making the secondary coil is the process that takes the most time to complete. 

Step 1: Calculate the Specifications of the coil (1st picture).
While there are several ways to figure out how many turns to wind on your secondary, I just went with 400. To figure out how much wire I would need I found the circumference of the PVC pipe. The equation for this is Pi * D where Pi = 3.14 and D = the diameter of the PVC pipe which is 1". So I did 3.14 * 1 which equaled 3.14" So I would need 3.14 inches of wire to make one turn on the secondary. I knew I wanted 400 turns so I just multiplied 3.14" by 400 and came out with 1,296" of wire. I divided this number by 12 to get the length in feet and the answer came out to be 104.67 feet of wire. Since I'm not particular, I rounded it off to an even 100 and measured out the wire on my living room floor.

Step 2: Get the wire ready to wrap around the secondary ( 2nd picture).
After the wire was measured out, I wrapped it around a Tupperware container that was covered in double sided tape. This container prevented the wire from unraveling while I was wrapping it around the pipe.

Step 3: Wind the secondary (3rd picture).
This step takes a lot of time so make sure you are comfortable and have plenty of Painters Tape on hand in case you need to take a break. My secondary took about two hours to wind. You are going to want to start off by taping one end of the wire to the pipe, make sure you leave about a foot of extra wire so you can connect it to the driver circuit. Then you are just going to wind the wire around the tube being careful not to overlap the wire in any places. When finished winding, (again, leave a little extra wire to attach to the top load) tape down the end to the tube so it does not unravel. Now you have two options, you can either coat the whole tube in a general purpose epoxy so it will never unravel or you can just leave it. I ended up just tacking a couple spots of the coil with Gorilla Glue because I was out of epoxy. Although, I highly recommend coating your coil in epoxy! 

------THE TOP LOAD------

The top load does not need to be fancy, a metal ball would be ideal but pretty much anything round or toroidal shaped will work as long as it's coated in something metallic. I used a wooden knob I found at a parts store and wrapped a sheet of aluminum foil around it. You will need to attach one end of the secondary coil to the top load via screw or solder. Then just attach the top load to the secondary, I used hot glue to keep it in place.

------THE PRIMARY COIL------

This part is very easy, all you have to do is wrap a length of wire directly around the base of the secondary like I did in the last picture. I would shoot for somewhere between 5 and 15 turns, I found that 8 turns worked the best for me.

Step 4: Putting it all Together

Ta da! Just add your power source (I would try a 9v battery first) and you should be able to make the 4 watt light bulb light up when you bring it close to the top load. In the first picture I used a variable power supply set to 15v to make both a 13 watt and 4 watt light bulb light up wirelessly. The range of the Slayer Exciter is around 6 inches at 9 volts and 1 foot at 18 volts.
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AnubhabC made it!8 days ago

Hey Chip Fixes,

I have used 2 nine volt batteries. 1 LED(in place of diodes). about 1200 turns in L2 and 15 turns in primary coil(lower turns doesn't work properly). I am not sure of the value of the resistor i am using and no capacitor But the results are not satisfactory!

It is too weak as you can see in the images! What can i do? Whats your suggestions?? There is a detailed description here:https://in.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20...

WP_20140712_14_41_22_Pro.jpgWP_20140712_15_11_53_Pro.jpgWP_20140712_15_09_30_Pro.jpg

i tried to make it but at first the transistor was becoming very hot.. then i changed the poles or ends of the primary coil but it still did not work...... i supplied a 6v - 2 amp dc supply . the secondary coil was more than 1200 turns and primary was 8 turns... i used 1N4007 diode instead of the UF 4007 diode but all the other things are same... i tried to glow a 5watt - 220 volt cfl lamp ... please help me out

can i use a 26 awg wire as secondary and a 18 awg wire as primary???

what is to be the output voltage for wireless transmission??

please suggest a method o contact you other than instructables...

hi, Chip Fixes,

i cant get my slayer exciter to work.i did the same as you instructed.my winding looks perfect.when i bring any bulbs near it,it wont light up.The current is flowing through the circuit.

Once the bulb had lighted,but was very faint. but then it wasn't lighting at all.It did not work.the components are working fine(tested using multimeter).

I think primary coil is the problem.I dont know how to adjust it...Please help...??

mine also has a heat sink and am using 18v.

Chip Fixes (author)  ferdinand00221 month ago

Try reversing the leads of the primary coil, you can also try using less turns on the primary. If that does not help, the transistor may be the problem.

Thanks sir, but i am getting reading in my multimeter. The current isn't ionising the air and the CFL is not lighting.once after experimenting a lot, i got an led of about 3v to light faintly.i tried decreasing the no:of turns.now it is about 3-4 turns.with 18v.i am doing this for my school project.
i thought it was the problem of the top load as i used a torroid shape in the place of a sphere shape, and i changed to sphere. Any solution??

okay I have to add this. I did something totally cool with mine. first I got 1/4 cup of salt, opened a yellow highlighter and rubbed salt all over the ink cartridge until it was all yellow. once it was completely dry I put it into a small metal cup and placed in on the topload. I turned off the lights, turned on a black light and powered it up. the result was a spectacular fluorescent yellow fountain about 3 feet high!!!!
I wasn't able to get a good photo but I can post this without one, so I'm using the original one of my exciter.

temp_452483911.jpg
Chip Fixes (author)  Doctor90250 1 month ago

Oh that's really cool! Could you get a video? I've seen salt added to high voltage outputs but never anything like that.

Hi chip,
Once I build the new one I will certainly try to get it on video.
Another way of doing it is with a van de graff style electrostatic generator, or anything that has a fairly decent ion wind.

I built this using a TIP 122 transistor, and rather than winding my own secondary coil, I used a TV flyback transformer.
I wound about 8-10 turns of enamelled wire around the ferrite core. forgetting how much current my 12v regulated power supply put out, I tried powering it with that. let's just say that that transistor was not too happy about, and exploded with a violent BANG!
Now that I've recovered from the heart attack, it's back to the old drawing board. this time I'll use a wee bit less amperage, lol.
I did, however, on the first run, use a 9v 700 mA transformer just long enough to hear that wonderful high pitched hiss that flybacks are known for, before soldering it all together and returning my wife's DVD player to her. Suffice it to say, it works great! thank you for an awesome 'ible.
(in the 2nd pic you can see the hole in the transistor. I added that one for the chuckle factor, lol).

temp_1745388119.jpgtemp_-1312386869.jpg
Chip Fixes (author)  Doctor90250 1 month ago

Thanks for sharing and that is an impressive failure hahaha. I think the reverse EMF from the flyback may have been the primary cause of the transistor exploding. If you were to add a safety diode between e and c of the transistor, it may last longer.

deba1685 months ago
sorry..the message was not complete. can i make a plasma globe by placing a incandescent light bulb instead of top load..

I've done that using a large clear bulb, the big decorative ones. smaller bulbs may work but usually are just vacuum, whereas the larger ones have one or more gases added like argon, krypton, or neon. this allows you to see the streams of plasma created by the electrons flowing through them.

Chip Fixes (author)  deba1685 months ago

Well it won't be a plasma globe but yes it would work.

shawn1311 year ago
ummmmm, newbie question here.
Is there a way to know which terminal in a transistor is which without a multimeter just by looking at it?
I know the base is the middle but what about the other two?
great work though.

hi Shawn, I usually Google the data sheet for transistors that I've pulled from something else.

Chip Fixes (author)  shawn1311 year ago
Yes, if you hold it so the black part with the writing is facing you, and going from left to right: pin 1 is the base, pin 2 is the collector, and pin 3 is the emitter. The middle pin is the collector, not the base! The first page of the datasheet shows you which pin is which: http://vakits.com/sites/default/files/Tip31C.pdf
nrockzz2 months ago

Sir

I have done everything same except, the diameter of pipe is around 0.75 inch...does it matter??? we have around 500 turns... Still no bulb is glowing and transistor is taking too much heat in 13v itself... while connecting multimeter primary is giving only very less voltage (0.2 V ) while applying 15 V as input... pls help .... A led connected is glowing at 15 v with low intensity...

Chip Fixes (author)  nrockzz1 month ago

The size of the pipe does not matter. You could try flipping your primary leads around to see if it makes a difference? I assume you're using a TIP31C transistor?

In order to increase the resistance of the resistor do I need to go up watts or ohms?

Chip Fixes (author)  Thomas Pagonis3 months ago
Ohms
What would you recommend? Is 100 ohms ok?
Chip Fixes (author)  Thomas Pagonis2 months ago

100 ohms will not work because it's too small of a resistance, I would try a resistor in the range of 10k - 50k ohms.

I need help! I did the same slayer exciter and does not work and I think it's because the circuit is just like yours but I do not understand is what does not work .... because it takes two diodes? have some mail for you can send pictures from my slayer exciter, to help me.

thanks

Chip Fixes (author)  jprado costoyas2 months ago

The Slayer Exciter does need two diodes to work properly. Have you tried switching around the primary coil leads?

parkm20713 months ago

Hi, what's that thing called, for the circuit, that everything else is on top of? Like a copper color and where can I buy one? I'm sorry, but I'm an amatuer at all of this... Please reply soon! This is due for me in 5 to 6 days, thanks!

Chip Fixes (author)  parkm20713 months ago
PCB, you can find it on eBay, you can also use a breadboard.
Is it possible to do without it?
Chip Fixes (author)  parkm20713 months ago

You can use a breadboard or solder point-to-point, but the point-to-point method will be more difficult

Elsam asare4 months ago
hello chip, i'm having a problem with my exciter i believe it's from the circuit but i don't know how to fix it
Chip Fixes (author)  Elsam asare4 months ago
What's the problem?

the bulbs don't light when i bring them close to the exciter

Chip Fixes (author)  Elsam asare3 months ago

Try flipping the leads on the primary where they connect to the circuit.

please can u help me with the circuit, I used TIP41C transistors

rgalindo14 months ago

hi, I have a problem with my Slayer Exciter, doesn't work, I used 22 AWG in coil L2 and when had around 350 turns I returned the wire in the same direction for to have 1050 turns, it possible do it? or it is coil necessary one direction.

Chip Fixes (author)  rgalindo13 months ago

Try flipping the primary leads around where they connect to the circuit.

pharish14 months ago

Eureka! We've got the output! Thanks Instructables..

dogucan974 months ago

I'm making this version of the Slayer Exciter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fjy8nHoW3ZM I'll use 1,5 mm (about 15 AWG) wire for the primary coil (8 turns) and the circuit, and 0,25 mm (30 AWG) for secondary coil (400 turns). The circuit parts will be the same as yours and the one in the video. And I want to use a power supply instead of batteries. I went shopping for it, but I saw many different kinds of power supplies. And now, I'm asking you for some details about the power supply that I should use. I know about the voltage, and I know that I should get a DC power supply, but what about the amperage? There were power supplies with different amperages. What should be the amperage on the power supply I should buy? I'm not in the US, so, give me details, not an exact model or anything. Also, it shouldn't be too expensive.

Chip Fixes (author)  dogucan974 months ago

Okay cool, feel free to make the secondary coil more turns. 500-1000 is a good number for a high output.

In terms of the power supply: You want one that can deliver at least 1 amp, 2-3 amps would be great if you can afford it because that way, you can use it for other projects. Also, my power supply is a variable one so you can set the voltage to between 0 and 36 volts. If you can't find a cheap variable power supply that can supply at least 1 amp, I've found that laptop power supply's (which you can get on Ebay or Amazon) work really well. I would get the 12 volt or the 18 volt laptop charger and then you just cut off the connector so you have a negative and positive wire. Let me know if you have any other questions.

nirep5 months ago
Hi, i just got TIP31B and TIP32B transistors. Will it work?
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