Step 6: Measure and Drill Center Hole

9.5 inches from the other end, mark and drill a hole on the same side as your (wider three) tuner holes. I recommend again using a pilot drill bit, and then switching to a larger bit, drilling half-way in, flipping over, and drilling the rest of the way through *(to prevent splitting.)

It is crucial that you make this hole absolutely centered. There should be no less than 3/16ths of an inch wide on either side.

If it is off centered, or if the hole is very close to the sides, there is a risk of the wood snapping when it becomes time to spread and glue. Additionally, if the sides are too thick, say, larger than 5/16th of an inch, there is also a risk of the wood snapping. Go figure. Therefore, it is always possible to trim up the sides before the step where we spread and glue, but be careful not to cut it too thinly.
This might be old news due to the age of the post, but I just ran into it. Anyway, I am psyched to do this with my son (and he wants to also...), but where can I get the wood. Home depot and Lowe's have lumber but not the nice wood you used. Any suggestions? <br>Thank you
<p>The wood for the top and bottom of sound box can be found at Woodcraft or Klingspor Woodworkng shops to name 2. Ask for where they have the 'thin stock'. You will find nice pieces of 1/8&quot; stock in many woods like Padauk, Sycamore etc. There will also be 1/4&quot; and even 5/16&quot; pieces but you want the 1/8&quot; think stock. You'll see the prices are not crazy but it will cost you $20 or so for enough to make two strumsticks.</p>
Sure, well... When I was working with Andy, he insisted that the wood be the musical instrument grade hard wood, but our local woodshop teacher here suggested otherwise, including the use of softer wood such as Ash. My belief is that a softer wood, or whichever you have available to you would work just fine, especially during the bending and glueing steps (will not snap as easily.) Please if you try a different wood, send me a note sometime letting me know how it worked out!<br>Also, the type of wood may produce a different sound as well. (the spruce on the front produces a warmer softer sound, and if switched to the harder maple on the front, produces a tinnier sharper sound.<br><br>Lastly, to answer your question, Here locally there is a fine woods store (Edensaw woods) , which although might not be in your local area, surely you might find an equivalent supplier?<br><br>Good luck, <br>Evan<br><br>
Sorry, I know this is an old post but I was wondering if you could tell me the location of the sound hole &amp; more info on the bridge? Thanks
<p>Does anyone have a suggestion on brand of tuner and where to purchase one? thanks</p>
<p>Hi, unsure of a few things. In step 6 is the 9 1/2&quot; to centre &amp; what size hole? According to the ruler, it looks like a 3/4 inch hole, which wouldn't leave 1/4&quot; sides after you cut out the centre if you are using 1&quot; stock.</p>
<p>hey tomzappio, the 9 1/2&quot; is measured from the bottom of the stick...so make a mark across the fret side at 9 1/2&quot;. Then find the EXACT center of the width, at that 9 1/2&quot; mark, and mark your center, making a crosshairs at dead center, 9 1/2&quot; up from the bottom. Then you drill a 5/8&quot; hole (IF you're using 1&quot; lumber) and you'll be left with 3/16&quot; on either side. Drilling that 5/8&quot; hole at EXACT CENTER is crucial, because if the thickness of the sides differs, the sides will not bend exactly the same, and your body will not be symmetrical. It'll curve easier on one side than the other, and kinda lean....ask me how I know. </p>
<p>hi, and thanks to you (and Andy) for this great 'ible! I did my own take of course, that's half the fun, but your directions were an invaluable guide. I used a piece of oak railing, so it's flat on the fret side and has a palm-fitting curve on the backside, it's comfy. For the face and back I used 1/8&quot; birch that I have for cajon tapas. I used a pullsaw for the frets, the width of the saw blade was a perfect fit for a fret. Instead of using frets under the tuner holes, I stripped some solid core copper wire and hammered it flat, them cut 3 little &quot;frets&quot; from it. I made the bridge from a chunk of oak, passed it over the table saw for a groove about 7/8 of the way deep, and cut a little piece of bone to slide into it. Again, my saw blade was just the right thickness that the bone just squeezed right in, I didn't have to mess with thickness at all. Threw on a cheap 3-on-a-side classical guitar tuner, some banjo strings (23/17/10 I think) and tuned it to GDG. This was my first stringed instrument build, so I'm pretty psyched with the result. I've since acquired a McNally Strumstick, and I can honestly say its on a par soundwise,and at a fraction of the price. It's rarely much cheaper (if at all) to build an instrument, and it can be time consuming and require patience, but there is magic in hearing music come from a thing you've created that is priceless. Thanks for the inspiration! </p>
Hi, brilliant project and I love all the pictures and steps. I really breaks it down. I do have a question thought. <br> <br>Why is the bridge slanted? I can't ever recall seeing that on an instrument. I admit most of my instrument experience is viol biased (violin, viola, cello, bass) and none of these have a slanted bridge. Thank you in advance anyone that knows :)
hi, thanks for this instructable, i built a gascan ukulele last weekend and my next project is a strum stick. Your instructable clarified a lot of things. I just wanted to point out that in the tuning video it's mentioned that the bridge is set at 57.7 millimeters and 57.8 millimeters from the bridge. This should obviously be centimeters, not milimeters, as 50 millimeters is about 2 inches and the strumstick looks a lot longer than that ;) <br><br>I'm very sorry your friend passed away, but thanks to your posting this, his legacy reaches even to Australia! Thanks again, I'm going to have a go at this soon!
This has got to be one of the most detailed Instructables I have ever read. Having done an ible on this instrument myself, I have learned things from yours that I will use on the next one I build. I do question why you chose to put the tuners on with the pegs facing up and why you put the bridge on in what in my mind is backwards. Personal preferences aside this is a wonderful build and you are doing a great service to the children of your community. Bravo!
Thank you Friger<br><br>Your comment made me realize that i had completely left out the step for making the bridge, as well as where to measure and place the bridge. I shall edit this, and add a step to alleviate confusion. (I wasn't sure what you meant as backwards.) <br><br>What I do realize is that I wasn't clear enough on the tuning measurements, That the Nut side close to the tuners, is where the first fret groove is sliced. Thanks for pointing out things I need to clarify!<br><br>Also, I guess we had put the tuner pegs facing up as a default, without much thought... I'll make a few with the tuners going the other way. (sometimes when they get set on a tabletop carelessly, the instruments will slip out of tune.) <br><br>Additionally, Your instructable taught me a few things which I'll modify for the next one we build! Thanks for that!<br><br>Evan<br>
Well I am sitting here holding 1 stick from Friger instructable that is waiting for the hardware AND 2 Mackie Music Sticks! Their hardware is in hand and I just put the frets in. Just some oil, tuners in, strings on, and a bridge. Which brings me to my post. What are the measurements of the bridge itself? While waiting to hear an answer I will likely play around with different things laying around just so I can play it tonight!<br><br>I understand they are tuned to DGD. Do you know if DAD tab's work the same on the DGD?<br><br>Thank you<br>Guy
Hello, I'm sorry I didn't specify. It is tuned well at exactly 8 (eight) inches from the last fret to the bridge!<br><br>DGD works of course, although I had often tuned them to GDG!<br><br>{{{}}}====&lt;&lt;&lt;<br><br>
Please, you misunderstood me. Not the measurement of the bridge placement, but of the bridge itself. Specifically how tall is the bridge you are using?<br><br>Mr. Mackie's family states the tuning for GDG but in the videos when Mr. Mackie hands the stick over to another person to tune it, he tunes it in DGD.<br><br>My first one is GDG right now but that may change. I'll string the next one tonight and perhaps in GDG to see how the TABS work in that tuning. <br><br>I plan to finish the Friger build in DAD like my dulcimer.<br><br>For now I guessed at a height for a bridge and it seems to work but I feel it is on the tall side, I guess it might be players choice in the end.<br><br>Thank you<br>Guy
Thanks, I guess what I ment about the bridge is you indicate in the video that the curved or slopped face of the bridge is facing towards the nut. I've always done this type of bridge with the verticle side facing the nut. I my mind (which can be a scarry place sometimes) I want no chance of the &quot;free board&quot; string to come in contact with anything. Also it gives me a very precise edge to measure from when setting the scale. The curve side can allow for a smooth transition of the string up onto the bridge from the tail. Make sense? Perhaps this image will help explain my point. <br>
how long would it take to make one?
Really you could make one in a weekend... The longest time spent would be the glue drying / setting! You could speed up the process by gluing the front and back plates on at the same time... Good luck!
Amazing instructable. Very detailed. I am sorry to hear of the passing of your friend Andy. What a legacy he has left however and the gift of music he bestowed will certainly live on. Keep up the great instructables!!!
would cherry wood work?
Cherry wood sounds ideal! The qualities of cherry range from having an excellent stability, (will not warp) to being resistant to decay. Choose the side for the fretboard to have minimal or none at all pin knots or gum pockets, because sawing a fret-groove might be very troublesome, if cutting into a knot. Cherry wood has a striking and favorable fine grain pattern, color, and an attractive figure. If you've got some cherry, use it! The price however, will range depending on how much figure or grain pattern it contains. Good luck!
Thanks Evan. I want to try to make one. I was wondering if Cherry wood would work? Thanks .
Hello mi name is Nestor, from Argentina.im geting started about building a strumstick for my son Piero. i would like to know wich strings from the guitar can I use in the strumstick. thanks, this is a great instrument.<br>
Thanx evan,,
Thanks Nestor, <br><br>I just updated this post. The last step shows a picture of which strings to use. They are: GHS strings, for Dulcimer, Banjo, Tenor Banjo, or Mandolin. They come in a 4 string set. The thickest string measures: .020 inches diameter *(tuned to low G.) the next two strings measure: .012 inches diameter, and are tuned to D, and high G.<br><br>Sincerely, Evan
Dear Friends, <br>This last saturday, November 5th, Andy Mackie passed away. He was 72 years old. To those of us who all loved Andy, he will be very much missed. His legacy continues to flourish, bringing music to children. <br>Sincerely, Evan.<br><br>Here is the article in the peninsula daily newspaper:<br><br>http://www.peninsuladailynews.com/article/20111106/NEWS/311069987<br><br>
where did you get your fret wire?<br>also pic says #784 wire when the discription says #764. just saying
The supplies, hardware, including tuners &amp; fret wire came from the Stewart McDonald Catalogue. (http://www.stewmac.com/)<br><br>specifically for fret wire: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Stewart-MacDonald_Fretwire.html<br><br>764 is the correct size (for just the three below tuner holes) thanks for pointing out the error. The size on these probably don't matter as much, they can also be 141 size. The metal wire just prevents the strings from carving into the wood. Just make sure the NUT (first fret) is thicker size to ride higher above the rest of the fretboard wire. <br><br>
thank ooo <br>
This is great! I just built a CBG and I have been wanting to build a Martin Backpacker for a while this 'ible will help me immensely.<br><br>FYI: Andy Mackie has visited my son's school a couple of times, and I have him myself. Very down to earth guy. He's one of my son's heroes and even asked me to take a picture of Andy and him together.<br><br>
Thanks CementTruck, <br><br>Andy is an inspiration to us all! I had the great privilege of working with Andy all during the 1st year at Chimacum. *(this is now the Third year of the program.)<br><br>As of this writing, he recently suffered from yet another heart attack, and is presently in the care of a hospital in Michigan. Please check his facebook page for updates. We are all thinking about him!
My son and Andy at a summer camp in Michigan.
Can you tell me where in Michigan, and which hospital? I'm sure my son would want to know. You cam PM me if you wish.
Excellent work. The best bit was when I suddenly realised how you got the triangular body shape.
Thanks gmjhowe! Although the triangular shape technique is somewhat awkward, *(they break if spread too widely)* I'd like to improve upon this by getting / making a steamer to be able to bend and curve the wood for some rounded shapes!<br><br>Another technique I use, is to double or triple the thickness of the end piece. Then I just sand the corners until they're round on the belt sander.<br><br>

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