Sure, pickup trucks are great. Trouble is, all that cargo space is just so much decoration on the daily commute. And forget about trips with the kids and dog. For many of us, the family car is just too practical to replace with a utility vehicle.

Fortunately, you can have your utility space and passenger-car comfort with a light-duty trailer. It’s really the best of both worlds. And fun. We built the NuWay Model No.NW13848BF trailer kit made by Hunter Technology, P.O. Box 100, Orillia, Ontario, Canada L3V 6K1. NuWay trailers come in a range of sizes and designs, and the units are available partially assembled as well as in do-it-yourself kits. 

Our trailer is 51 x 96 in., making it useful for hauling 4 x 8 plywood and other large construction materials, and it folds for easy storage when you don’t need it. It has a payload capacity of 1300 pounds, 8-in wheels, and a list price of about $305. The kit comes with everything you need except material for the bed.  You can buy this trailer 85% assembled, with a plywood bed and 12-in wheels, for about $509.  A smaller model and a boat trailer are also available.  (Editor's Note: while this product information dates to 2001, the process of building a kit trailer is still useful if you're using another kit, or designing your own trailer.)

This project was originally published in the May 2001 issue of Popular Mechanics.  You can find more great projects at Popular Mechanics DIY Central.

Step 1: Build the Frame, Part 1

First, slide each hub with its inner bearing onto the axle, and then add the outer bearing, washer, castle nut, cotter pin and cap (Photo 1). Set the axle aside and begin work on the frame by bolting the coupler to the tongue (Photo 2).

The trailer is made of two similar ladder frames joined with hinge plates that allow the assembly to fold. Following the plans in the manual, assemble both frames upside down with bolts, washers and nuts (Photo 3). The crossmembers of the frames are U-shaped with flanges facing up (the frames are upside down), and they have two bolt holes at each end.  Only install bolts in both end holes of the trailer’s front and rear crossmembers. At the four other crossmembers, leave the bolts out of the flange holes for now. When the frames are together, add the tongue channel and the two diagonal braces (Photo 4). The ends of the braces are bolted through the open holes in the middle flange of the front frame.

Align both frames on two lengths of 2x4 stock that span a pair of sawhorses.  Then, mount the offset hinges on each side of the front and back frames (Photo 5).  For now, don't tighten the fasteners.
I bought and built one of these from a mail order catalog. It was delivered in a big box on my driveway. It was one of the best purchases I ever made. I still have it and use it at least once a month. Thanks for posting.
<p>Hey Bob</p><p>Where did you order it from? I can't find it anywhere. Thanks for your help ?</p>
Hi Tao,<br><br>I bought it from Harborfreight.com<br><br>http://www.harborfreight.com/1720-lb-Capacity-48-in-x-96-in-Super-Duty-Folding-Trailer-62671.html<br><br>Cheers,<br>Bob A.
Hi Tao,<br><br>I bought it from Harborfreight.com<br><br>http://www.harborfreight.com/1720-lb-Capacity-48-in-x-96-in-Super-Duty-Folding-Trailer-62671.html<br><br>Cheers,<br>Bob A.
Correct me if I'm wrong but these trailers require license plates and some sort of registration and also turn signals don't they?
<p>Registration depends on where you live. Here we don't tag trailers. Turn signals are a good idea no matter where you are. To be honest I don't know is lights are mandatory here. I always run lights but I see just as many people NOT running lights on trailers.</p>
I would love one of these, it would come in so handy around here!!

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Bio: The official instructable for Popular Mechanics magazine, reporting on the DIY world since 1902.
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