Step 12: The Results: Long Exposure Astrophotography

I just finished my first test of the equipment and I am extremely happy with the initial results.  I performed a very rough alignment of the system to Polaris using the green laser.  I then used the remote live view software with my Canon to line up and shoot two test images.  The first illustration shows a 60 second capture of the Western sky from my patio with the equatorial mount engaged.  The second shot was configured with identical settings but with the equatorial mount turned off.  Both pictures were taken with a 100MM L Macro at 400 ISO.  The difference between the two shots is very pronounced!

I am very excited to take some more pictures with my 400mm lens + 1.4x + 2.0x extenders!  It is an amazing feeling to see this project working after all of the time I've placed into it and am excited to move forward from here.
<p>Nice, but too much big...and...you made an error: Right Ascension follow sideral time and is different from solar time. Sideral Time si 23h 56min and 04 sec...so you must revisit 1440. The support of the reflex must to do a rotation in 23,9344696 hours...or 80644 sec...or 1434min. If you correct this you will have less error...</p>
<p>Very Nice Project indeed <br>I would like to know the gear ration in the existing EQ-SKY mount which is available in the market?</p><p>And where can I know about it?</p>
<p>Instead of a stepper motor, had you considered using a cheap clock kit, and just gearing it down 2:1 (or using the minute hand with a worm-drive attachment)? I would imagine this would deliver the torque necessary to move the telescope, without the complexity of programming a stepper, or the issues brought on by a stepper's discrete positions</p>
<p>Would you be willing to share how you connected your camera to the mount? It looks like you had to have a 90 deg turn in there to get to the camera attachment lug?</p>
<p>How long can this be used for tracking? </p>
how much torque does a quartz clock movement produce a 2:1 drive from the hour hand sprocket would give your 1 revolution per day
i add a few pics here i hope it helps a bit
that was an absolutely brilliant effort :) however i have a problem designing my own gearbox using Autodesk inventor. i have designed and linked the gears following your steps but the trouble begins here: after defining a plain for sketching the contour, i followed as you said: projected the holes and sketched the contour but it doesn't allow me to extrude the contour saying:&quot;create extruded feature: problems encountered while executing this command&quot; maybe i should've asked this in a CAD forum but please give me a clue. it's been three days or so I'm trapped in this part. i've checked that the contour is closed and also there's no possible intersection between the extruded sheet and the gears.<br> thanks again for your exceptional piece of work :)
Absolute fabulous!
I just added the CAD files for folks interestsed in building this unit for themselves.
I love this article and is a great project for us sky watchers. Could you provide (add) the DWG files so I could have the gears cut?
Thanks for the compliment. I'm happy to add the DWG files and will update the post with this. In the meantime, I did export the STL files and posted them to the 123Dapp site: <br>http://www.123dapp.com/stl-3D-Model/Equatorial-Mount-for-Astrophotography/667245 <br>
I added a build of materials list with cost and sources for the components. The total cost for the build was just under $200.
WOW, what a good work! <br> <br>I would like to do something so, but much simpler and therefore cheaper.
A very inexpensive alternative is the hand-turned barn door tracker like this one: <br> <br>http://www.astropix.com/BGDA/SAMPLE2/SAMPLE2.HTM <br> <br>If you build it right you simply need to turn the screw at the same rate a watch's second hand turns. Not terribly difficult (and the photography is somewhat forgiving) and you can do exposures up to several minutes.
I considered the barn door type design, but there are a few problems with this design. <br> <br>1) A wide angle lens is MUCH more tolerant to an innacurate mount. I'm using telephoto to super telephoto lenses which magnify the effect of vibration, bumps, even wind to the point where the photo will develop streaks. The snap shot in the example at the link you provided covers a ~70 degree diagonal angle (20mm on a 1.6 APS-C.) I'm using lenses with anywhere from 100mm up to 1120mm meaning my diagonal FOV is anywhere from ~20 degrees down to ~2 degrees. There is very little tolerance for vibration at this small FOV. <br> <br>2) The screw is a linear device, but the rotation must happen around the polar axis at a constant rate. It won't take long to begin seeing see the effects of this if you rotate the screw at a constant rate. In order to maintain constant rotational velocity wrt to the polar axis you will need to accelerate the rotation of the screw following some trigonometric function. Not something I wanted to deal with :-). My design will rotate as accurately as the motor you use and not require any funky non-linear rate of rotation. The stepper motor should be extremely accurate and therefor enable &quot;indefinate&quot; long exposure photos. <br> <br>3) The linked spur gear design, I figured, was more likely to absorb any vibration generated by the motor. On the barn door design the motor would be almost directly linked to the camera mount translating more of the vibrations to the camera itself.
I gotta ask then, why not just jury-rig a standard telescope equatorial mount (or build one in that style). One of those has gotta be less complicated gearing-wise. Most telescopes on mounts like that are way more intolerant to vibration than your camera lens and they do just fine. Just curious (I totally get it if you simply wanted to build something of your own design, that's very cool in and of itself).
This all came to be on our trip to the Southwest and my imagination got the best of me :-). I learned as I was going through the design process that there are mounts for telescopes that you can buy but I really wanted to go through the process of drafting up, fabricating and building what I had dreamed up. I did have some concerns over these mounts not being designed to tolerate vibration since they are built for real-time observations, not long exposure photos. Doing this project provided me a fantistic experience in learning how to take an idea and make it real. It's been a gateway to other projects too like a custom fit glass rod holder designed to fit precisely into the rod warmer we have. (We are also flameworkers, another recent hobby my wife and I acquired.)
Thanks for the info, it is very interesting. But I want to make an unattended solar cooker.
Then all you need is a 1rpm motor and a gear. <br> <br>Alternatively, since a cooker doesn't have near the precision requirements, you might be better off just making your reflective surfaces more tolerant to differing sun angles, rather than having it movable at all. Really depends on the cost of a bigger reflector vs. motor + mount.
The most time consuming part was learning as I went. CAD was new to me and I'm not a mechanical engineer (I am a computer engineer by training.) I was considering including a BOM cost for the project and will update the Tools and Materials section with this information. I estimate that the total cost of parts was around $125 including the electronics, materials and parts.
I wrote the article for the human powered clock drive for astronomy.net a while back! The site is no longer up, but I found this Waaaayy cool website called the 'Wayback Machine' which archives stuff from the web. Praise Jesus Hamashiach, they have an archived copy of my article: <br> <br>http://web.archive.org/web/20101225122400/http://www.astronomy.net/articles/9/ <br> <br>I donated some money to them for the valuable service they provide. <br> <br>Happy to answer any questions about the clock drive. It's very easy to build.
Hmmm... I am unable to delete this comment. What I meant to say is that I wrote &quot;an&quot; article years ago about a clock drive I built. It is quite different from this design. Sorry for any confusion. I thought I responding to a comment from an astronomy website. That's what I get for having too many tabs open!! :-p
I noticed you put 1/4 I.D. bearings right onto 1/4&quot; threaded rod. Didn't that misalign the bearings axially due to the pitch of the threads? Also, I've always found stepper motors to cog a lot at very low speeds.<br> <br> For the smoothest operation you should look into a linear stepper driver. Microstepping only approximates a sine wave.&nbsp;This is a link to a page to read about one such driver:<br> <br> <a href="http://www.piclist.org/techref/io/stepper/linistep/index.htm" rel="nofollow">http://www.piclist.org/techref/io/stepper/linistep/index.htm</a><br> <br> <br> They're popular with the astronomy set.
I did not observe any misalignment of the bearings resting on the threads. I already have a little misalignment in the system due to a need to enlarge the hole and using a jig to recut them. I'm sure there is a better way to assemble the cogs onto an axle, but I was impatient and anxious to get it assembled :-). <br> <br>Regarding cogging at low RPMs on the stepper motor--I do see this in the system, however I'm not seeing this vibration translate into any measurable impact on the photo. When I experiment with my 1120mm lens combination (400 * 1.4 * 2.0) I'll take another look. The shots from my experiement were taken at 100mm focal length with and APS-C sensor.
I didn't notice it myself either until I built<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHPKaHLzXes" rel="nofollow"> this</a>. It has bearings on both ends and the misalignment is very pronounced running it. I actually had to loosen the mountings up in order for it to run.

About This Instructable


165 favorites


More by ridiculously.awesome: How to Make a Musical, Motorized Glow-in-the-dark-ghost Mobile How to Make a Custom-faced Carbonite Sculpture out of Glass How to Create a "Piece-of-Jack-in-the-Box"
Add instructable to: