Step 23: The Tent Mod

In our county, a hard roof on a gazebo or any deck changes all the rules. The setbacks for a deck move from 4 feet to 23 feet the minute your designs include a hard roof. The result is that I had to design for a tent roof. This design started with the intention of cedar rails and a semi-permanant roof. Aside from the cost the local engineering department said NO!
As it happens, my wife found a really great buy on an octagonal garden tent (about $575 Cdn.) The problem was that the outfit selling the tent had little or no documentation and were not sure of the size. They guessed 14 feet. Does that mean 7 foot edge to edge or 7 foot radius? We bought it and found that the radius is about 13 feet 6 inches. They must include the diameter of the support poles in the 14 feet. Regardless here is where the last design mod is described. 
I couldn't increase the current radius, but I could put in extensions to the vertices to support the tent poles. 
  Each post support is constructed of 4 pieces of wood. 
Two sides at 8 inches, cutting both ends at 22.5 degrees, and
two centre pieces at 4", again with 22.5 degree cut both ends.
Assemble as shown here, glue and screw and mount at each vetrice below deck level. Fasten deck planks following the pattern of the deck with a 1-1/2 inch overhang.
<p>Thank you so very much for sharing, me and my significant other are looking forward to build one ourselves.</p>
<p>How about measure once, fall off ladder, get someone else to do it !! :-) Nice gazebo</p>
<p>Hi, thanks for your comment. The cost was about 1/5 of the cost of getting someone else to do it, and besides, I'm cheap</p>
I never use a ledger board when I build decks or steps, this will trap moisture between the ledger board and the house. With a wood construction house this causes rot and with a masonry house like yours the trapped moisture is hard on the brickwork during freeze/thaw cycles. The deck you have built would be stable as a free standing structure with a small 1 - 2 inch gap between it and the house to prevent trapped moisture. People don't even notice the gap and it prevents some painful repairs 10 - 15 years down the road.
Thanks for your warning. I will in fact check for damage this summer. <br>Since the brick is very roughly textured, I am HOPING that sufficient air flow has taken place to prevent spalling on the brick. There is certainly not a 1&quot; gap, more like 1/4&quot;.<br>If damage has occured, or even shows a possibility, I can pull the ledger board<br>and take your suggestion. The deck is very sturdy as a free standing structure, and since all parts are screwed together, I can disassemble the areas adjacent to the ledger board very readily for any changes required. It was built in 2005, so any incipient damage will be fairly obvious.<br>Thanks again for your thoughtful feedback.
The mortar between the bricks is most likely to suffer.<br><br>I recently discovered an unexpected benefit to building decks as free standing structures. Someone was backing a truck up to a deck that I built several years ago and accidentally hit the deck. Instead of doing a bunch of damage to the house the deck just moved off the concrete weirs that it was on. I was called to fix it and all we did was come with a bunch of guys and just put it back! <br><br>Most &quot;professionals&quot; will say I am wrong, that you should use flashing and caulking to keep the ledger board dry but omitting it is easier and more effective as caulking and flashing always fail on level surfaces like decks.
you should check with local building codes.. where i live it is required by the county to have all decks or other such structures attached to the house WITH a ledger board and they have regulations as to the size of fastening screws attaching the ledger board as well... <br> <br>Beautiful pogoda btw... thank you for sharing.
Your input definitely would have helped me about 7 years ago.. we noticed damage caused by moisture last year because of this. 10-15 years like you suggested may be average, but depending on the size and circumstances of the build, we can see negative effects as early as 6 years in my case. <br><br>Otherwise WONDERFUL instructable, with detailed instructions and photos.
Appreciate the comment, thank you. As 67spyder has noted, trapped moisture is a problem. Your comment of similar damage underlines that we can't just build and leave, we have to spend some time in checking for things like water damage, trapped moisture and so on. Thanks to 67spyders comments I will be spending time checking for this and other types of damage when I sand and restain the deck surface this coming summer.
What a beautiful addition. I had to build a deck for my wife, but fortunately for me there was no complex math (mine is rectangular) <br> <br>Great Job
Thank you for the comment. I am surprised by the number, but definitely appreciate the numbers of positive comments on my first instructable. You guys have really been supportive.
Very, very nice. I might have considered doing something like this on my side if I didn't already have the cement deck to begin with.
Thanks for you comment. Maybe your next house?
Could be. But after the work I did on the deck (see my instructable; I'm sure you can sympathize), I don't think I'm yet ready for another big project like that.
Actually, I had looked at your project before, when I was browsing a large number of instructables to get an idea what was the type of project Instructables was looking for. When you mentioned it now, I went back for a second look. Indeed, you spent as much time, or more on your project than I did on mine. As you indicate, a lot of work. I have to congratulate you on your's, and would agree it is not yet time for another bigee.<br>regards<br>Cobourdave
Glad you enjoyed it. But you never know; the wife might get me to add a third floor or something one day. Stay tuned ...
This does not meet code in Canada. The deck needs to be at least 100mm below floor height inside the door. This alows for snow melt outside not getting into the house as the door sill is usualy above the floor height bi at least 25mm.
Thank you for your coment. In fact in the town I live in, which is in Ontario, I took the precaution to review the plans with the town engineering department. No mention was made of deck height below door entrance. Undoubtedly, other jurisdictions have different requirements. The building codes for Canada as a whole will reflect the a more conservative approach to snow load, but local jurisdictions have priority over federal codes, and will differ widely dependent on location. The town I live in borders Lake Ontario and the snow fall has been moderate for many years, so I presume building codes are applied with that in mind.<br>Should I be living in a heavy snow area, the design would have reflected the realities of the environment. I am sorry if I gave the impression that my design would apply to any and all jurisdictions; in fact I didn't think the instructable had to do so. Why not redesign my approach to show how it should have been built in your jurisdiction?
Sorry about the gazebo dimension, but it worked out beautifully. The extensions really enhance the overall appearance. But as the whole thing goes it's an incredibly beautiful deck. Let me know when you have some free time to build in my yard. :D
Many thanks for your kind comments. Indeed this was a &quot;oh darn&quot; moment with my wife and myself. The tent was great, except... ! Regardless we agreed it was a beautiful tent at a good price, and decided to adjust for it.
Sorry, I can't understand your comment, but based on the step you were at when you sent your comment, I would guess you were concerned with the use of the saddles. I will try to explain. The saddles are used to assure that the upright 4&quot;x4&quot; posts will be aligned so that the rectangle boards of the foundation will meet at right angles with the posts. Since there are two interlocking rectangles, the ODD post are set aligned just 45 degrees rotated form the EVEN posts. I hope this helps, and thanks for your comment.
It's fantastic. Did you have to get a permit?
Fortunately no. In the town I live in, if the deck is no higher than 24 inches, you don't require a building permit. As it happens, my deck on average is just 24&quot; high. Zoning bylaws also proved set back rules. Here a deck with no roof or at least not a hard roof have a 4 foot setback, adding a hard roof changes the setback to 23 feet. Thus I was able to add the tent to the deck. Regardless, I still had to apply at the engineering department of the town.<br>Thanks for your question
Great Job, It is a beautiful addition to your house keep up the good work.<br>Dan
Thank you. It was fun building it.
Beautifully done. However, if your posts are all laid out perfectly to begin with, I see no point structurally(at all) for the sub-frame.
Excellent point. You could indeed skip the foundation with a perfect layout of the posts. I included this substructure because it provides a way of laying the deck without concern for post shift due to freezing and thawing as well as ground shift. And yes, I admit, I don't think I ever layed out anything perfectly and the foundation structure allows for a lot of &quot;oops&quot; moments. Thanks for your comment.<br> <br>

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Bio: This picture is how my daughter painted me; old and grumpy. She and the other kids think this picture is funny. My wife agrees
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