How to Build and Arm a Scale Model Battleship From Scratch

 by picklwg
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Warship Combat.jpg
Escourt Duty.jpg
Hanover Under attack 1.jpg
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KGV5 coming up short.jpg
Mortally Wounded.jpg
Scharnhorst after the French again.jpg
Scharnhort VS KGV5.jpg
Sharnhorst VS Vanguard.jpg
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Vinny in action.jpg
Welcome to the fascinating world of R/C BIG GUN Warship Combat. So what exactly is R/C Warship combat? It is a hobby where scale model warships, armed with low-pressure CO2 cannons, fire small ball bearings at an opposing ship.  When enough holes are put in the easily punctured balsa wood covered hull to overload the internal bilge pump, the ship will sink.  All ships have a float and recovery line so there is no need to go swimming unless you want too. Yes, we shoot holes in our models on purpose. How else can you simulate real sea battles. It's Allied versus Axis; Battleships, and Cruisers and Destroyers maneuver for attack, or struggle to protect the cargo ships that are valiantly trying to get supplies through.  Oh, and we cannot forget the need to defend your port city from bombardment from sea. Any questions?  Good, you can ask any Midwest Battle Group member. But, we have to warn you, you're going to get hooked on this hobby.

The Ships:
The ships are 1/144 scale (range from 3 to 6+ feet in length), WWI - WWII era (1900-1946) warships, transport ships, and occasionally submarines. The wood or fiberglass hulls are covered with balsa wood skin. They have bilge pumps to simulate damage control, are electric powered, and are armed with low-pressure CO2 cannons, that can rotate and depress. The models are equipped with a float attached to a recovery line. This allows easy recovery of the ship when it sinks. The ships are quickly recovered, repaired, and put back in the game. The only damage is to the balsa wood on the hull, since the internal components are protected by shielding, and the electronic equipment is usually waterproofed.

This instructable walks you through the process of building a model warship from just a set of overhead and side views.

More about me....I've built 5 ships from scratch and used to run a small business selling supplies and building cannons for the ships.  I made several design improvements to the cannon, but cost of having parts cnc'd drove the prices up to high.  I sold my business to strike models http://www.strikemodels.com/.

More about the hobby.  You can learn about the hobby from www.strikemodels.com they support both versions of this hobby small gun and big gun.  Small gun limits the number of cannon and they are all bb size.  Big Gun uses various ammo sizes upto 1/4" linked to the ships actual cannon size and allows you to arm all the guns.  Big Gun is what is pictured in this instructable.   The currently are selling everything you  need to battle.  They have a very good website which includes a list of currently active clubs.

The guns way anywhere from a 1 to 1.5 pounds.  The ships themselves can get fairly heavy.  A Yamato weighs around 40 pounds and is around 6 foot in length and 10 inches in beam.

Also new is our club's promotional video.  Unfortunately the club has disbanded do to shrinking membership, but many clubs are still active across the US and Australia.
 
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Step 1: SELECT A SHIP

Step 1 Select Your Ship.jpg

First things first – decide what ship you want to build.  This decision alone may take many months of procrastination while sorting our all the facts that seem pertinent when in reality, it doesn’t make all that much difference.  I have participated in about 50 rc combat warship battles over the past 5 years and have followed the action of other clubs closely.  One thing that I have learned is generally, there is no such thing as a bad boat.  Assuming a boat is reliable and well balanced so it is seaworthy, and put in the hands of a skipper that has learned how to use the features of the particular ship to his advantage any ship can be an effective part of a team.
Ask yourself why you want to participate in this hobby.  Presumably the reason is to occupy free time and consume some disposable cash, for this hobby will certainly do that, but more likely the real reason is to have fun.  The best way to have fun is to have a ship that is reliable and seaworthy.  It’s very frustrating to have your ship role over and sink as soon as it begins to take on water, or to spend the day sitting at the side of the pond working on your ship instead of participating in the game.
Consider a used ship as your first ship.  This will allow you to begin playing the game sooner and there is no better way to decide what ship fits your style than to participate in the game for awhile in order to learn your strengths and weaknesses.  Ideally the owner will allow you to battle the ship before you purchase it.  If you like how it responds to your style of battling and it operates reliably through the day it is a good choice to get you in the game quickly.  When you get a ship test all systems to ensure that they work, and how they work, then use this ship to gain combat experience and as a construction aid and test bed for your new ideas.  That’s right.  To test out your new ideas.  About every modeler I have ever known has his or her own ways of accomplishing tasks and you will find yourself asking, “Why did the original builder do it this way?”  Most often there was a reason, but sometimes it was just a mistake, an attempt to implement a new idea that didn’t work very well.  There is no substitute for experience in building a ship and learning combat techniques.
Avoid small ships and complex ships for your first building experience.  There are many operational systems in our warships and every system is equally important in its own right.  Think about it, which is more important, cannon, drive motors, pump, steering, or balance?  After a little reflection you will probably decide that all systems are equally important since your ship won’t be combat effective if any of these systems don’t work well.  It’s by far and away easier to learn the basics of maintenance and installation on a ship that has fewer operational systems.  It is easier to get the hardware installed in a larger ship.  Small ships test the talents of the most skilled builder.  For your first ship you will be well advised to build a larger ship rather than a smaller one.  Larger ships are more survivable in combat as well.
Keep it simple.  Another sound tidbit of advice would be – don’t try to reinvent the wheel.  Stick to the basic and proven methods of implementing a function.  Look at the ships of the seasoned skippers and pay attention to how they implement the various functions, then follow suit.
armored bore says: Jun 3, 2013. 8:09 AM
Would it be offensive to consider futuristic/Sci-Fi models like littoral combat vessels or arsenal ships?
Neander says: May 7, 2013. 7:59 AM
Hmmmm....Might try to do an all Metal Iron Clad!
ebaneser says: May 6, 2013. 6:08 PM
Awesome as heck I might try to make a replica of PT-109
nuclearweapon says: Aug 8, 2012. 1:44 PM
for the c02 tanks you can get them from soda stream.com
pp21 says: May 29, 2012. 8:55 AM
Wow, I never knew that there were reenactments/battles with RC battleships. I always thought it was fake and it didn't believe it until now. I would love to do this, but money is tight. So it will be awhile before I build and participate in these battles.
picklwg (author) in reply to pp21Jun 5, 2012. 4:49 AM
A full up Iowa can cost around 2,000 dollars.
Silvester10528 in reply to pp21Jun 3, 2012. 7:22 AM
The R/C unit and cannons are the major expense with these. You can find plans online for free and get balsa at craft/art stores relatively cheap and get started building the base ship... Depending on you ship's size and the level of detail you put into it, this could take quite a bit of time where you can save up for the money sinks. I would buy the R/C unit first so if nothing else you have a ship you can cruise around in a local pond - which might help boost the interest of others.
jcomtois says: Jun 3, 2012. 7:42 AM
NIce to see this hobby caught on enough to have a real cannon supplier, those used to be the biggest problem. I'd quit following it about 15-20 years ago because of the expense. What is the reference document you used for the pictures, a hobby magazine? What are the hobby publications/sources and is there a list of locations where these events are regularly held?
picklwg (author) in reply to jcomtoisJun 5, 2012. 4:49 AM
Current supplier is strikemodels.com I used to run BDE, but sold it to strikemodels.
bumsugger says: Jun 4, 2012. 12:10 AM
This IS without doubt The Most Realistic use of models I have ever seen,(though I've often imagined it given all the technology around these days) however,I have often imagined that I might one day arm my fairly large radio controlled model aircraft,so I would welcome any ideas on just such a project,and I'd also like to know what the "all in" weight of the "gun units" are?
picklwg (author) in reply to bumsuggerJun 5, 2012. 4:48 AM
Big Guns are anywhere from 3/4 to 1.5 pounds. The ships can weigh upto around 40 pounds.
rgraylint says: Jun 4, 2012. 3:48 AM
This looks like a really fun hobby. I took my family to the MakerFaire in Austin a few years back and my 13yo son was awe struck by the ships on display there. The guys in the booth were very friendly and patiently answered all our questions. Unfortunately we couldn't get anyone else interested enough in building here to start a club. I don't think it would be that much fun to shoot at your own boat.

I do have one question. I spoke to a gentleman in Austin who told me about a spray he used to waterproof his electronics. He drilled a small hole in his servos and receiver then inserted the spray can tube and squirted this water repellent chemical. I believe he said he could sink his boats a few times before he sprayed again, but don't quote me on that. I can't remember the name of the spray. I don't see any mention of it in a quick skim of your article. Do you have any idea what I'm talking about? Sorry if it is there and I just missed it.

BTW, it would be great to see some video on your Instructable.

Thanks for sharing your great hobby!
picklwg (author) in reply to rgraylintJun 5, 2012. 4:47 AM
That can work two things will get your servo. 1 corrosion if the water is allowed to stay in the box the board gets corrosion and it's toast. 2. water gets on the potiameter (sp?). This will cause the servo to jitter or turn uncontrollably. Rinsing with alcohol to displace water then squirting with WD40 will help.
brendangillespie says: Jun 3, 2012. 5:35 PM
Good God why isn't there any video?!? Would LOVE to see this in action!
picklwg (author) in reply to brendangillespieJun 5, 2012. 4:43 AM
I've got an 11 meg one. I need to edit down so it will upload to the site. They seem to have a size limit on file uploads.
bpfh in reply to brendangillespieJun 4, 2012. 9:25 AM
+1. What this man said! This needs a video!
bpfh in reply to bpfhJun 4, 2012. 9:30 AM
Check this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehkb_9VBxeg&feature=related
yariv_ar says: Jun 4, 2012. 3:43 AM
Wow, amazing!
BIOhazard_inc says: Jun 4, 2012. 12:27 AM
this is amazing......
schmitta says: Jun 3, 2012. 11:58 PM
Love RC boats. This Instructible goes above and beyond the call of duty.
krauser says: Jun 3, 2012. 2:09 PM
You've got my vote. Great Instructable!
ostomesto says: Jun 3, 2012. 12:11 PM
Amazing instructable, to time consuming for my short attention span(LOL) but this is really amazing. Subbed and voted, Really great job I applaud

btw really cool with the working cannons:D
billbillt says: Jun 3, 2012. 9:59 AM
GREAT!!...Just WAY TO complicated for me, but VERY COOL!!!.....
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