Anywho, let's get started!
First of all, you will need:
- Safety glasses!
- A mold of whatever you're trying to cast. I prefer to use a high temp silicone rubber but you can use pretty much anything that will withstand about 600°F. A good starter project could be a design carved into a cured piece of plaster.
- Some pewter
- A blowtorch or some other method of melting the pewter
- A crucible to melt the pewter in (a steel can will work just fine on a single use basis)
- A hacksaw
- Sandpaper and/or files
- Buffing wheels and compound
- A fair amount of elbow grease, but it's not too much, and it's definitely worth it.
DISCLAIMER & WARNING: Any techniques used here are my own, and they work for me. Use at your own risk. Also, please note that this 'ible details the use of an open flame and very hot molten metal. Please ensure that no pets or small children are around to distract you or get themselves hurt. Nothing is more important than safety, so always work in a well ventilated area (outside is preferable) and it's best to have a friend close by with a fire extinguisher or bucket of water in case something goes really wrong. After the metal has solidified, it is STILL HOT. Use a pair of pliers to handle it or just wait for it to cool down before handling. Same goes for the crucible. If you choose to follow these instructions, have fun, but be safe. :)
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Signing UpStep 1: Prepping the Mold
Basically, take a brush and make sure all surfaces that the metal will touch are coated in powder. That's it! Now reassemble the mold halves and put a rubber band or two around 'em to make sure they don't fall apart when casting.
Now for the fun part!









































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E-mail: jeffcastro_bb@yahoo.com
Please respond quickly!!
Sincerely, Jeff
If you're serious, I can probably do that for you :)
Thanks,
Todd
I've personally never gotten good results with a Dremel, but I'm not at all artistic, so you'll probably have better luck than me.
I also tried making my own graver a while back (had some tool steel blanks that I profiled and sharpened on a grinder and hammered into a wooden handle), and that worked alright. Again, having the hand-eye coordination of an artist would really be helpful if you choose to go that route.
One more thing you could do is put the symbol in it from the start. If it's a fairly simple design, you can make your clay model with the symbol you want, just make sure that all sunken areas are at least 1/16" or so deep, as you'll lose some of that depth later when you're sanding and finishing. Then your casting will be an exact replica of the original :)
I chose not to do that because the design I'm trying to (eventually) make is too complex to work that way, and since I'm making several variations upon the design I'm too lazy to make multiple molds ;)
Hope this helps!
Thanks again :)
If you only want one symbol on your ring, try molding it into the original clay model. When you make the silicone mold of that model, it will capture all of the detail on the clay, including your design. That way, all the details are already in the mold and you don't have to worry about a little clay piece sliding around in there. And it's safe for metal casting.
Sorry for the confusion, I'm not very good at explaining things.
And just out of curiosity (last question, I promise), where did you find the ring to make the mold (or was it a clay model that you made the mold from)? Again, thanks for all the help.
I actually made the original ring, because I couldn't find a commercial alternative that fit the requirements that I had. To make that, I found a piece of 3/4" rod and molded the clay around it. Then I baked it in the oven as per the directions, and while it was still kinda soft (it doesn't harden completely until it cools down), I cut a slit at the bottom and gently pried it off. Then I glued it back together, put a sprue on it, and poured the mold! :)
It's really as easy as that.
Good luck, and feel free to ask as many questions as you want!
Now for the real stuff. I got a couple pounds of pewter from Rotometals a while back, and I just recently bought 6 pounds off of ebay. If you search for "pewter ingot" and look around, you can often find some pretty good deals there. The only thing to be careful of is that you should make absolutely sure that what you bought is lead free. These people look pretty nice, if you're wondering where to go for that.
Do you know why the pitted, cratered effect happens? I thought initially it was some mold release (from the original clay) left over in the mold, but since I made several castings, and washed it out thoroughly in between, I'm less convinced of that.
I don't know the scientific reason why it happens, it might have something to do with surface tension or outgassing from the mold (like you were guessing before), I just know that graphite works to smooth out the casting :)
I could probably ask one of my chem teachers if you really wanna know.
For your class, did you carve items out of wax, invest them, cast, and break the molds? I would love to see some pictures if you happen to have them handy :)
Also, have you seen instructions on how to steam cast? Do you think results would be similar between the two different methods?
Ha - you linked to Don Norris! We used to be buds when I was active as a professional jewelry maker. I'm not sure about steam casting, but I think most professionals now use injection casting. With centrifugal casting, you got some bubbles, whereas you don't with injection casting.
I don't have photos of my things... I made a mini Parthenon and a fleur-de-lis out of bronze, a silver bell (still so beautiful), and a little silver chalice with gemstones on it that was a special gift for a friend. The chalice and bell were cast from molds made from wax I shaped on the lathe of my boyfriend at the time.
And yes, that is the process we followed.
And I guess it really is a small world! Thanks for all your time, and sorry if I've been bothering you with too many questions :)