This is my guide for how to choose the right survival knife. This is by no means a definitive list, because it depends on your personal tastes and the situations you are likely to be in, but I hope to tell you some of the main features you should consider for a general purpose blade.
if there is anything incorrect in this instructable, please let me know.
Also, these pictures are from google images to illustrate my points.
if there is anything incorrect in this instructable, please let me know.
Also, these pictures are from google images to illustrate my points.
Step 1: The Law
In the UK, the law is fairly tight. I am not going to go too in depth about it, but my source of knowledge is here if you want to check up on it, or get some examples. In general:
You may not carry a knife with more than 3" of cutting edge, and it may not lock open. Butterfly knives, flick knives, or other assisted opening knives are also banned; if you are caught with one in public, you will end up in jail.
Knives over this length may not be carried without good reason. The exception to this is :
1. Knives carried for work
2. Knives carried for religious reasons
3. Knives carried as part of national dress
As for what a public place is:
The Prevention of Crime Act 1953 section 1(4) provides that;
'a public place includes any highway and any other premises to which the public have or are permitted to have access, whether on payment or otherwise'
This also includes your car (even if it is locked).
You may not carry a knife with more than 3" of cutting edge, and it may not lock open. Butterfly knives, flick knives, or other assisted opening knives are also banned; if you are caught with one in public, you will end up in jail.
Knives over this length may not be carried without good reason. The exception to this is :
1. Knives carried for work
2. Knives carried for religious reasons
3. Knives carried as part of national dress
As for what a public place is:
The Prevention of Crime Act 1953 section 1(4) provides that;
'a public place includes any highway and any other premises to which the public have or are permitted to have access, whether on payment or otherwise'
This also includes your car (even if it is locked).
Step 2: Film knives
Before I start, DO NOT be tempted by knives you see on TV and in films, such as Rambo. This is almost always the least practical knife you can have. it is much to big to be used comfortably and for delicate jobs. It is also the wrong type of tool for bigger jobs.
Moan over..!!
Moan over..!!
Step 3: Parts of a Knife
I think the picture below just about covers it. There may also be a pommel, or butt cap at the bottom of the handle, and a guard at the bottom of the blade. There might also be a lanyard hole near the end of the handle.
Step 4: Type of Knife
For day to day jobs, a small folding pocket knife will suffice, with or without a lock (depending on where you are/the common uses). For general bushcraft and survival, a fixed knife is best, as a hinge provides a weak point. I will be concentrating on fixed knives in this instructable.
For use in the jungle, i would recommend taking a large machete or axe as well, to cut your way through dense undergrowth.
For use in the jungle, i would recommend taking a large machete or axe as well, to cut your way through dense undergrowth.
Step 5: Size
For the length of the blade, I find between 4" and 6" is the ideal length, short enough to get control for finer jobs, such as carving, and large enough for heavier jobs.
Step 6: Tang
The tang is the piece of metal attached to the blade that runs inside the handle. The top tang is a a hidden partial tang or push tang. This may be useful if there is a hollow handle with a survival kit in it (a feature I would STRONGLY recommend you do not have, due to the loss of strength). The middle blade has a hidden rat's tail or stick tang. It extends the length of the handle and the handle is pressed or threaded on to it. The bottom blade has a full tang, which conforms to the shape of the handle.
Having a partial tang may not be a sign of weakness, because it all depends on craftsmanship, but I would recommend getting a knife with a full tang or rat's tail tang. This means that even if your handle breaks, you have something to wrap a cloth around or use instead.
Having a partial tang may not be a sign of weakness, because it all depends on craftsmanship, but I would recommend getting a knife with a full tang or rat's tail tang. This means that even if your handle breaks, you have something to wrap a cloth around or use instead.
Step 7: Knife Edge Grinds
There are many different grinds, but there are 6 main ones.
1. Hollow grind : This has a very sharp edge, and will cut through things very easily, but will not hold its edge well with use.
2. Flat grind : The blade tapers from the spine to the edge on both sides.
3. Saber grind : Saber grinds hold the edge well, but do not cut as easily as a hollow grind. it is similar to 2, but it starts further down the blade.
4. Chisel grind : As like a chisel (hence the name), only one side is ground.
5. Double bevel or compound bevel : The blade is thinner just behind the edge, which improves cutting ability. The actual edge, however, has a wider angle, so lasts longer, but does not cut as well.
6. Convex grind: This is the opposite of a hollow grind. There is a lot of material behind the edge, so it holds an edge well, and is fairly sharp. it is often used on axes, and tools for heavy use and chopping.
For a survival knife, I would recommend a saber grind or compound bevel, as these are easiest to sharpen without specialist tools, and hold their edge well.
1. Hollow grind : This has a very sharp edge, and will cut through things very easily, but will not hold its edge well with use.
2. Flat grind : The blade tapers from the spine to the edge on both sides.
3. Saber grind : Saber grinds hold the edge well, but do not cut as easily as a hollow grind. it is similar to 2, but it starts further down the blade.
4. Chisel grind : As like a chisel (hence the name), only one side is ground.
5. Double bevel or compound bevel : The blade is thinner just behind the edge, which improves cutting ability. The actual edge, however, has a wider angle, so lasts longer, but does not cut as well.
6. Convex grind: This is the opposite of a hollow grind. There is a lot of material behind the edge, so it holds an edge well, and is fairly sharp. it is often used on axes, and tools for heavy use and chopping.
For a survival knife, I would recommend a saber grind or compound bevel, as these are easiest to sharpen without specialist tools, and hold their edge well.
Step 8: Blade Shape
As you can see, there are many different shapes. I am going to concentrate on the ones I would want on a general purpose knife.
1 Clip Point: The clip point blade has a fine tip, so is good for digging and picking. You can also sharpen the curved section above it, to make a lethal hunting weapon.
2. Spear point: A spear point or drop point is the standard blade shape used in penknives. it has a fair amount of material, so is very durable, and is good for cutting. It is not quite so good for delicate tip work, but is still a very useful blade shape.
I can't tell you which one is best, it all depends on what you intend to do with the knife. You would use all of the below shapes for different purposes, so think about what you are likely to be doing, and make an educated choice. Personally, I would choose a Clip point, because I do quite a lot of delicate work, but it is up to you.
If you are likely to be doing much skinning or gutting, then you might want to consider a serrated or wavy blade, which cuts through flesh like butter, but is harder to sharpen in the field.
1 Clip Point: The clip point blade has a fine tip, so is good for digging and picking. You can also sharpen the curved section above it, to make a lethal hunting weapon.
2. Spear point: A spear point or drop point is the standard blade shape used in penknives. it has a fair amount of material, so is very durable, and is good for cutting. It is not quite so good for delicate tip work, but is still a very useful blade shape.
I can't tell you which one is best, it all depends on what you intend to do with the knife. You would use all of the below shapes for different purposes, so think about what you are likely to be doing, and make an educated choice. Personally, I would choose a Clip point, because I do quite a lot of delicate work, but it is up to you.
If you are likely to be doing much skinning or gutting, then you might want to consider a serrated or wavy blade, which cuts through flesh like butter, but is harder to sharpen in the field.
Step 9: Blade hardness
The hardness of the blade is measured using the Rockwell Count scale (RC scale). It is determined by teh heat treating of the blade as it is made.
High hardness (~ RC 60-65):
This is more brittle, but holds an edge very well. Impacts may cause the blade to chip, so it is suited for small knives and general cutting.
Medium hardness (~ RC 58-60):
This is suitable for a wide range of tasks, and is what you would want for a general purpose survival knife. It holds an edge fairly well.
Low hardness (~ RC 52-58):
This is the least brittle, but does not hold an edge as well. It is used for impact blades, such as meat cleavers and axes.
High hardness (~ RC 60-65):
This is more brittle, but holds an edge very well. Impacts may cause the blade to chip, so it is suited for small knives and general cutting.
Medium hardness (~ RC 58-60):
This is suitable for a wide range of tasks, and is what you would want for a general purpose survival knife. It holds an edge fairly well.
Low hardness (~ RC 52-58):
This is the least brittle, but does not hold an edge as well. It is used for impact blades, such as meat cleavers and axes.
Step 10: Handle
Handles are made from a wide range of materials, such as plastic, bone, horn, wood, leather and rubber. Rubber provides good grip, even when wet. Bone and horn are durable, and also provide an aesthetically pleasing finish. Wood and leather have a nice finish and a good grip, but will need some treatment to stop them deteriorating. Plastic is strong and not absorbent.
The handle should comfortably fit your hand, and not leave blisters with prolonged use. This is down to personal preference.
A guard between the blade and handle will help protect your hand. A single guard is generally better than a double, because it enables a range of different grips.
The handle should comfortably fit your hand, and not leave blisters with prolonged use. This is down to personal preference.
A guard between the blade and handle will help protect your hand. A single guard is generally better than a double, because it enables a range of different grips.
Step 11: Sheath
A knife should have a sheath, to protect both it and you. A sheath should be made from a strong material, such as leather or Kydex, and have a tunnel belt loop. Also, the handle should have a strap to stop it sliding out of the sheath. Some sheaths have a small pocket for a sharpening stone, which is extra weight but could be useful. It is up to you where you where your knife, on you belt or leg or wherever, but the police may not like the idea of a concealed blade! In public places, you should take it off and put it deep into a bag, or better stilll, not carry it unless absolutely necessary.
Step 12:
I think I have covered everything, if you think of anything else, then tell me. You may have noticed, but there is no perfect survival knife. Nobody can predict exactly what will happen to them, so a knife has to adapt. Finally, be safe when using a knife, I have seen many injuries due to carelessness, but enjoy the outdoors.
Step 13: Knife Steel Type
There are countless different types of steels, but for a survival knife they fall into two categories - stainless and carbon. Stainless is more rust resistant, and can be more brittle, but does not hold an edge so well and is harder to sharpen. Carbon steel is tougher, easier to sharpen and holds an edge well, but may rust if not cared for.
I have no experience personally, but i found a list here of some recommended survival knife steels.
Recommended Stainless Steels
S60V
BG-42
S90V
CPM S30V
CPM 154 (this is my favorite stainless steel)
Recommended Carbon Steels
D2
A2 (this is my favorite carbon steel)
O1
Carbon V
CPM 154
If you want to do more research, then this link is very good.
I have no experience personally, but i found a list here of some recommended survival knife steels.
Recommended Stainless Steels
S60V
BG-42
S90V
CPM S30V
CPM 154 (this is my favorite stainless steel)
Recommended Carbon Steels
D2
A2 (this is my favorite carbon steel)
O1
Carbon V
CPM 154
If you want to do more research, then this link is very good.
Step 14: Image Sources
http://applepublicrelations.com/images/gavel_xncx.jpg
http://asrafffariz.blogspot.com/2011/03/knives-chronicles-tarzan-rambo-macgyver.html
http://www.robscooking.com/?p=453
http://www.ocmulgeeblacksmiths.org/knifemaking101.shtml
http://mountainpreparedness.blogspot.com/2011/04/knives-as-tools-review-of-knife.html
http://shootingmessengers.blogspot.com/2010/08/knife-blading-101.html
http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/popular-mechanics/Things-To-Make-In-Home-Workshop/How-To-Keep-Your-Knife-Keen.html
http://airgun-academy.pyramydair.com/blog/tag/rockwell-scale/
http://www.aceros-de-hispania.com/herbertz-knives-penkives.htm
http://creationsbychris.us/leather_accessories
http://asrafffariz.blogspot.com/2011/03/knives-chronicles-tarzan-rambo-macgyver.html
http://www.robscooking.com/?p=453
http://www.ocmulgeeblacksmiths.org/knifemaking101.shtml
http://mountainpreparedness.blogspot.com/2011/04/knives-as-tools-review-of-knife.html
http://shootingmessengers.blogspot.com/2010/08/knife-blading-101.html
http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/popular-mechanics/Things-To-Make-In-Home-Workshop/How-To-Keep-Your-Knife-Keen.html
http://airgun-academy.pyramydair.com/blog/tag/rockwell-scale/
http://www.aceros-de-hispania.com/herbertz-knives-penkives.htm
http://creationsbychris.us/leather_accessories
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I have been working in the USA for a number of years up in the white mountains, so I have accumulated a couple nice pocket knives, one of them being the same gerber as pictured above.
However, reading the law, as the bit you have posted in the article, I am not permitted to have this on my person anywhere in the UK...
Does this law prevent me from using this utility pocket knife, out on the trail? I am prepping for a late spring trek (c2c)
What about a leatherman? length wise its just within the 3" cutting edge limit, but they all lock open!
Sometimes these rules and regs of the UK can be such a pain in the butt!
Pilots carried an assortment of knifes. The first is a pocket knife. The Mil-k-818 spec knife is a flat sided, stainless steel "campers type" knife. It has a 3 inch blade, a can opener, a bottle opener and an awl. It has a bail so you can attach a line on it so that you don't loose it. Several companies used to make these....Camillus ( now out of business)...I belive the Ontario knife company still makes it. It retails for about $40...sometimes you can buy them surplus for less. The next knife I sold was the pilots knife. There are several....One USAF knife has a Parkerized blade about 5"....it has a saw tooth blade on the top of the knife. IT has leather washer handle in a leather sheath. Most useful is a sharpening stone. Between the blade and the grip is a square hilt with two holes on it. These holes are to lash the knife to a pole or stick to use as a spear. There is a hammer type but cap to use as a ....what else...a hammer. Altho this styke has been around since WW2...it has a lot going for it....full hilt thru the grip.... the sharpening stone and lash able holes. The Kabar knife is excellent...but is a bit big. I don't think you should have s survival knife with a blade 7" or over. IF you want a machete...carry a machete....Stay away form the Movie knives as mentioned in this excellent article. I also believe you should stick with carbon steel as it is easier to sharpen. All u need do to protect the knife from rust is to oil the blade from time to time......Look at used bayonets, even from wW2. The steel and design is good....just get one with a reasonable blade length ...less than 7" and a grip that is comfortable for your hands, There are a lot of Russian bayonets coming into the country for about $20-30....with a sheath. IF the bayonet has any large fittings to attach to a rifle these can be removed or ground off...I know that custom knives cost hundreds of dollars...but if you have a good knife that meets many of the above criteria,....you should have a good tool...weapon..... be wary of a knife that is too cheap...the steel may be inferior ...or the handle may break...not what you want in a survival situation...again...the military knifes have passed a specification which calls out the quality of the materials and the testing criteria...they are pretty tuff...
If I might suggest a good cheap starting point, a sort of easy way into the survival knife choice, the Hultafors heavy duty knife is a good all rounder while the blade is a bit on the short side it's an ideal camp knife. It is available for £6 at Jan 2013. Carbon steel, large plastic handle and a plastic sheath.
I found it to be an excellent "starter" knife to get you into caring for your blades and at the price it won't matter too much if you mess it up.
what about this one? its 9 inch with 4.5 inch blade and full tang
Also, what do you think of the Gerber LMF II ASEK as a survial knife?
/genuine
As far as examples, any sword under $70) and most fixed blade knives under $30. There are exceptions, not all makers price the same(of course in that price range I wouldn't buy from a maker). Few people advertise a rat tail tang as it's considered undesirable for the reasons mentioned above. This means only honest or the unknowing tell you it's rat tail and that means most people won't tell you if they can help it.
Last word: Rat tail tangs are cheap and can be dangerous in an often used knife. Most people who have a fixed blade have bought a cheap rat tail and they either found out the hard way or don't use it very often at all. Below are some informational links on rat tails.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tang_%28weaponry%29#Hidden_tang
http://netsword.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/001780.html
http://www.swordforum.com/forums/showthread.php?45577-rat-tail-tang&highlight=rat+tail+tang
As a final note, one of the most popular and highly recommended beginner bushcraft knives (which if you are talking survival is the way to go; if you want a fighting knife you are looking at something completely different) is the 'Frost Mora' constructed with a half tang and a very thin blade, look through the reviews on amazon or on any bushcraft/survival forum and see if anyone has managed to break on of those.
I have seen slipping and rotating on a rat tail knife. I spose that's one that does and one that does not.
With regard to the information on shear force, I'm not referring to a solid piece. I'm referring to when the tang is welded on. I believe you can weld a rat tail(or any tang type) on very well, but if you're putting the effort into welding it on well, you're not using a rat tail. This isn't a "it cannot be done" it's a "if [this] than [that]".
Thinking on it again, I still don't understand where the comment about a half tang knife came into this, genuinely.. The Frost Mora has a 2.5 mm thick blade and tang. Also, the tang is half tang, it doesn't seem to apply to this conversation.
Personally, I'm fond of drop-points (pretty much the opposite of the sheepsfoot - the spine is straight to the point, and the edge curves towards the spine (like a rounded tanto)) - it makes for a really strong tip, yet possesses a belly for skinning/whittling/whatever (very difficult to do with a tanto point)
I'd also strongly recommend against a serrated blade for a survival knife (especially if you are planning on using it for skinning or gutting). While serrations can be really helpful for fibrous materials like cloth and rope, and give the knife a sawing/tearing ability even when dull, they also make it extremely difficult to sharpen, and make tasks like skinning and whittling nearly impossible (both would be quite useful to make tools/prep food).
Anyways, not to get too detailed, but yeah, a clip point is generally all around-good, and frequently favored by a lot of people, and can do most tasks well.
I've also seen a few handmades where they have a full tang, but hollowed out and removable handle scales for stashing a couple tiny things like fish hooks or a flint or something.
It is also worth mentioning blade thickness (I personally prefer 0.25in thickness as I favor durability over anything else). Also that extra thickness allows you to strike harder and use for prying or hammering.
A paracord handle might be a good idea since it can be replaced at any time or used for other purposes such as making as spear. Full tang always (rat tail may still break).
For steel I like S30V because it is very durable and stainless. Also INFI steel (from Busse) is incredibly strong although not very stainless. A good but cheap one is 440C. One must remember that knife makers may give different treatments to those metals.
Finally it depends on what do yo want your knife for. I like my knives for survival AND collecting, so I favor extremely durable, although expensive knives but if you only care for the survival more than the knife itself you can get almost the same results with far cheaper knives. Top notch brands would be "Strider knives", "MercWorx knives" and "Busse knives". For the inexpensive yet incredibly useful I recommend "Muela knives".
I also particularly recommend a small uitility knife that still covers all my points mentioned above: the Strider WP-T (or Strider WP Tanto). You can get it with almost any kind of tip you want if you don't like tanto points. Google it.
Nice guide again! Very in-depth and well thought out.
for mine a leatherman style product has been the most effective, and any other options have been covered as part of the every-day carry philosophy.
Good luck!
For cutting tasks, don't buy too heavy, thick, or long of a blade. The knife with the polished blade and wood handle has a blade profile similar to a Buck Nighthawk that I own. It is a good bush knife for heavy use, but is not the ideal for things like food prep or skinning. This type is good for bushcraft and other heavy tasks though.
For actual standard cutting, you can get really excellent deals on Opinel or Mora. They easily keep a razor sharp edge (particularly the carbon steel versions) and for food prep or fine cutting they will last a long time.
Once you learn about basic steel types, you can save a ton of money if you are buying for basic utility. For actual use, beware spending on the design, appearance and exotic engineering of a basic blade...unless you are buying for collecting purposes. Spend your money on the steel for the purpose intended.
Like this picture: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Ground_blade_shapes.png
You need to write "Waerloeg" under it -she/he made the picture -not Google!
Attributing pictures using "Google images" is like saying a street sign pointing to Paris made the Mona Lisa!
Also, you have licensed this article as "Public Domain". Since these pictures are NOT all licensed public domain, you are not within your rights to re-license these pictures as "Public Domain".