David eventually tired of it, and gave it to Prank, who cleaned out the brake lines and added a new battery. Then winter happened, and it sat in Deepest Darkest Somerville for a year, until prank graduated and moved to California, and I was given care of the motorcycle. I wheeled it back to MITERS to see if I could get it to work. A new battery, some carb cleaner, and a little bit of hope, and it started up! Yum, throaty rumble!
With visions of a cross-Cambridge joyride followed by summers of long-distance road trips, we took it to the road and kicked it into gear.
But, every time the gas was added from the gas tank, the 'cycle coughed up and died. Oh well.
I emailed the MIT Motorcycle and they said "clean the carbs". With a monkey wrench and a vague idea of what I was looking for, I did all of the following. Now they sparkle!
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the person before me (a friend) took the airbox off for more power, but never rejetted just played around with the carbs for a 'better' air flow... i beleive putting the airbox back on will fix a ton of stuff.... or a re-jet.
thank you all
You could also look at it from another point of view too though - since there is no fuel there the seals might dry out and make the fuel system start leaking.
I guess maybe overall the best thing to do is to run the engine a half hour or so every month at LEAST to insure that everything stays varnish and leak free.
Make sure not to let it sit for over 4 or 5 months without running it. Gas these days isn't what it used to be - you may wind up having to drain the tank and putting fresh gas into it if the stabilizer doesn't do its job.
I think running it a few minutes a week will do the trick and never put too much gas in the tank, at least not more than you will burn in a week or so. Good Luck!
bike- 1982 LTD550 4CYL
DISASSEMBLED CARBS SOAKED FOR TWO DAYS IN CARB CLEANER. PLACED IN A PAN OF HOT HOT WATER (NOT BUBBLING BOIL), USED CARB CLEANER AERSOL TO BLOW OUT ORFICES. REASSEMBLED PUT ON BIKE WITH THE BACK OF THE CARBS OPEN (NOT IN AIR BOX). GAVE IT A SHOT OF STARTING FLUID AND WALLA STARTED RIGHT UP. WARMED UP AND SHUT CHOKES OFF. IDLED PERFECT. GAVE A FEW TWISTS OF THE THROTTLE AND RESPONDED NICELY. PURRED LIKE A KITTEN. DECIDED TO HOLD IT AT 4500 RPMS AND WITHIN TWO SECONDS THE CARBS BOGGED DOWN AND KILLED THE ENGINE. NOW IT WILL ONLY RUN WITH THE CHOKE ON AND THE THROTTLE WIDE OPEN. UNDER THIS CONDITION IT WILL RUN 2000RPM NOTHING MORE. IF YOU TURN THE CHOKE OFF IT WILL NOT IDLE. CHECKED THE FUEL LEVELS IN THE BOWLS AND ALL ARE AT APPROPRIATE LEVEL.
I DONT KNOW WHAT THE HECK HAPPENED.
I PULLED THE CARBS DISSASSEMBLED THEM AND CURRENTLY HAVE THEM SOAKING. I ALSO REMOVED THE FUEL AIR MIXTURE SCREWS. THEY WERE EACH ABOUT 1 3/4 TURNS FROM BOTTOM.
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I do a carb service and do not use solvent based cleaners and special machine to clean.
http://ezinearticles.com/?How-to-Clean-a-Motorcycle-Carburetor,-The-Right-Way&id=1460030
Carb4bikes.com is a site for carbs and repair that will have a forum that will go into detail, right now it is now all the way up in running due to a hosting coping going out of business and getting our domain name back and setting up from scratch (they have our backups as well).
bike- 1982 LTD550 4CYL
DISASSEMBLED CARBS SOAKED FOR TWO DAYS IN CARB CLEANER. PLACED IN A PAN OF HOT HOT WATER (NOT BUBBLING BOIL), USED CARB CLEANER AERSOL TO BLOW OUT ORFICES. REASSEMBLED PUT ON BIKE WITH THE BACK OF THE CARBS OPEN (NOT IN AIR BOX). GAVE IT A SHOT OF STARTING FLUID AND WALLA STARTED RIGHT UP. WARMED UP AND SHUT CHOKES OFF. IDLED PERFECT. GAVE A FEW TWISTS OF THE THROTTLE AND RESPONDED NICELY. PURRED LIKE A KITTEN. DECIDED TO HOLD IT AT 4500 RPMS AND WITHIN TWO SECONDS THE CARBS BOGGED DOWN AND KILLED THE ENGINE. NOW IT WILL ONLY RUN WITH THE CHOKE ON AND THE THROTTLE WIDE OPEN. UNDER THIS CONDITION IT WILL RUN 2000RPM NOTHING MORE. IF YOU TURN THE CHOKE OFF IT WILL NOT IDLE. CHECKED THE FUEL LEVELS IN THE BOWLS AND ALL ARE AT APPROPRIATE LEVEL.
I DONT KNOW WHAT THE HECK HAPPENED.
I PULLED THE CARBS DISSASSEMBLED THEM AND CURRENTLY HAVE THEM SOAKING. I ALSO REMOVED THE FUEL AIR MIXTURE SCREWS. THEY WERE EACH ABOUT 1 3/4 TURNS FROM BOTTOM.
WHAT ADVISE CAN YOU OFFER?
Well if you are going to be fooling with carbs, you ought to know about the $1.98 tune-up. I just googled the term and while there are a few references, it looks like this trick might be going the way of the dodo.
I've used this trick to get carbureted vehicles to run right, and it's simple and downright amazing. Back in the day, I even tried it on some dude's jeep after he had a romp in the mud. It cured his "wouldn't idle" problem.
Here's how to do it:
1. Take off the air cleaner and start the engine
2. Rev up the engine about half way up.
3. Put something suitable over the air intake, cutting off all incoming air. Because of the air cleaning housing, this is usually a metal cup or something, but anything that will cut off air will work.
4. when the engine almost dies, remove the obstruction. Wash, rinse, repeat. (repeat 1 or 2 more times)
What is happening is that the momentum of the engine creates a strong vacuum in the carb. That vacuum dislodges minor specks of crud that are in the jets and stuff. Frequently, this little trick is all it takes to get an engine to idle correctly or accelerate smoothly.
Although in your case, with 20 years of idle time, it may be time for a proper rebuild kit.