How to Climb a Tree (with Prussiks!)





Introduction: How to Climb a Tree (with Prussiks!)

Once you can climb a tree, you can climb the world!

I wanted to learn to climb up stuff using rope, so I selected this fabulous tree on a street in Silver Lake, Los Angeles, and climbed it!

The theory is that you have two self-tightening rope knots. You put your foot in one, and step up.
You loosen and move the knot attached to the harness at your hips a little higher.
Then you rest on that knot, and move the foot-knot up. Step on the foot knot, and repeat.

Perhaps a little slowly, you can easily climb up a rope!

This is kind of a climbing instructable, not just a tree-climbing instructable,
because you can also easily climb anything you can throw a rope over.

Like the tree!

Step 1: Ropes

We're gonna do this with ropes, so put on your climbing harness.

If you're trying to climb a tree the "normal" way, the instructions are your brain, and I won't write them here.

I know you can even make your harness out of ropes, but I don't know how to do that so I can't show you here. I'm just gonna use a store-bought harness lent to me by prank

Go on, put on your harness.

We used webbing straps and two carabiners to attach rope to the tree.
Make sure that you use carabiners approved for use in climbing.
We used a 50 ft. length of dynamic rope.
You really want static rope for rappelling, but in this case dynamic rope worked.
We used a climbing harness each
And two round rope loops for the prussiks.
To round out the ingredients, pick your favorite tree!

Step 2: Sling the Rope Over a Sturdy Branch of the Tree

First, select a decently sturdy-looking branch, and throw your rope over it.

You'll want this branch to be strong enough to catch your weight if you're falling, so make sure sturdy is really sturdy.

Prank climbed the tree first, and used webbing straps to secure the rope, and then rappelled down with an 8, to begin the true tree-climbing.

I don't remember the words to describe the knotting, but you can tell what happened from the pictures.

By the way, what's the best resource for learning about knots? I'm curious about knot-theory, but diving into mathematical manifolds seem abstract beyond practical. Is there a middle ground between just memorizing knots with your hands, and thinking about knots that don't actually exist?

Step 3: Tie Prussiks

These are the cool part! Make a rope step ladder out of only rope!

These knots called prussiks (shown below) self-tighten and grip onto a rope when you step into the loop, but can easily be loosened to slide around.

You tie the prussik by slipping a loop of rope through itself a few times.

If you know what a lark's head knot is, tie that, but slip the rope through the loop more than once to get this.

For this, three turns were enough. Four was disastrously frictionful, too much to be useful for climbing this tree.
I started with four and reduced it to three.

You can read more about prussiks here.

Step 4: Become One With the Machine

Clip your carabiner into the prussik. You and the tree are now mechanically linked!

Step 5: Climb the Tree

Now start ratcheting yourself up the rope, up the tree.

I alternated between standing on my foot, in the foot-prussik,
and hanging from my harness, from the hip-prussik.

While standing on my foot, I slid the hip-prussik upwards.
Then I rested on it and it auto-gripped so I could loosen and slide the foot prussik upwards.

It was a little awkard to only ever have one foot supported. Also, you definitely can't do this barefoot.

When you get to the top, enjoy! Have a tea party or something, enjoy the view, enjoy the breeze
(especially if it's as hot as LA was, that day.)

Step 6: Rappel Down

This is where prussiks are (kind of) awesome!

All you have to do is squeeze the prussik knot, and it loosens and you can slide down the rope!

The downside is that you have to successfully do this to two knots at once;
fortunately, if you screw up, you just come to a halt on the rope.

You can also control your descent rate by how much you grip the knot,
which controls the friction between the rope and the knot.

I'm squeezing pretty hard, and making the accompanying face to show what it's like to loosen two four-turn prussiks enough to get it to slide. It worked well enough to prove the theory, but I abandoned the prussiks in favor of using an 8 for the rappelling.



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    Really cool way to climb and seems easy I'm gonna have to try this. Oh yeah nice pits also.

    Hard to bear a bowline and its variants. With that, a timber hitch and two turns and a half hitch, you can handle most situations.

    Hey *, cool instructable! On this point tough, I agree to disagree too - one of the sacrosanct rules of ropework (or climbing or whereever you might be suspended above ground in reasonable heights to break your something when you fall back down to ma earth) is to never have rope slide over other rope (braid, sling, cord) while one is loaded with you or other weight - the reason being, not only is it gonna melt and the prussik slides (like in this case) but it will likely cut through entirely quite quickly. When using a prussik as a backup for rappeling, it is basically unloaded so thats OK (you just push it further with your hand so it doesnt thighten). Like desciribed here, you would make the prussik take serious friction which will be transformed to heat pretty quick. Ok for 4 meters maybe.. but that fall is survivable too D8. Try this if you want to get a feel for this heat thing: get an 8 or other non-automatic rappeling device (ATC etc), check out how to do it (here?) and then after some tries go as fast as you can still control the descent speed and you feel is safe. Probably the first descent if its more than 5 meters will be enough though - the rappeling device, made from slick aluminum, is pretty hot to the touch! Thats why people often clip their 'biners in to the open end of the eight and never touch the eight themselves after rappeling, because you can burn your fingers.. Burning ropes is unlikely though, because aluminum distributes the heat quickly and it will never get THAT hot ( I know a guy who is an alpine climber who did scientifical tests on that, measuring rappel speed and temperature of different devices with different rope thicknesses - it never got too hot, kind of a myth that it could with a regular rappeling device used for climbing!) Now imagine the a) higher friction and b) less heat dissipation of climbing rope materials on each other. And the fact they're thermoplastics.. all of them. Ouch.. Stay safe, have fun and thanks for the great instructable! Jan

    Good general advice, but speaking as a professional arborist, if you use the right knots/ropes/techniques then rope on rope friction is absolutely fine. Pretty much the who tree industry revolves around climbing trees using friction knots (rope on rope) for climbing, rappelling, rigging etc. very often with no other mechanical descender or friction device even on the same site.

    Of course this does rely on your being sensible, one of the golden rules is never to muck around with fast descents etc for the precisely the reasons you mentioned: you burn your ropes.

    As an additional point, kind of backing up what you said, arborists use specialist ropes that are more resistant to heat and friction than the kind rock climbers use specifically to endure the kind of punishment they take over a lifetime of work.

    But for anybody else reading this, #mahyongg's advice is good, solid advice and should be stuck to in most circumstances unless you're trained in other techniques.

    Hi DirtyBrit!

    Interesting, I never knew arborists (in the UK at least) use knots entirely.. I think in Germany it’s probably not even be allowed by the professional organisations and insurances.. not that I don’t believe a proper, pro use of knots would work absolutely fine, but I guess the belief in solutions with a little more technology is just over the top here. Plus the industry lobbies would do everything to sell a 80€ device over a 1€ of tech cord any day ;D

    However, as you said - descending with prussiks should really be left to professionals and not be used by novices in any case, other than for test purposes when backed up with a second rope or such in my view.. although its good to know that it can be done, since it could be very valuable in an emergency. Another reason why any climber should carry one or two prussik loops in his/her gear loops ;D



    "Descending" with prusiks can be done in a non-rappel sense by climbing downwards. Literally, the exact opposite of ascending the rope, you sit in the waist prusik, move the foot prusik down, stand in that, move down the waist prusik, over and over again. In my experience, this is even more tedious than ascending with a prusik.

    One other thing, when backing up a rappel on an ATC with a friction knot, it is important to note that the knot should provide almost no friction. I can put a prusik above my ATC and clip it into the belay loop.  In that case, I keep the prusik extremely open such that it is still around the main rope but barely touching it, with my left hand.  The right hand holds the brake side of the rope and provides the friction for the descent.  
    The alternative is to put a friction knot below the ATC.  I say friction knot and not prusik because a prusik provides way too much friction and is a hassle.  I use an autoblock knot attached to my harness leg loop, or I can girth hitch a sling through my 2 rope tie in points and extend the ATC to about the height where my neck is, and then clip the autoblock to my belay loop.  

    How to tie the autoblock

    Isn't this how to climb a rope with prussiks?

    I used this method to get on my roof! (temporarily, then I built a rope ladder)

    This might only be necessary on tall trees with limited reachable branches but wouldn't you be able to climb up that tree without the use of ropes?