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Step 10Oars
make some oars and attach them to your boat. Direction and tips for this can be found in step 1. If you live near any sort of marine or boat supply store just go pick up some oarlocks.
Attach them to your boat and row it.
Some sites to check out for making your own oarlocks:
http://www.nfdc.net/home/cbdb/barquito%208.htm
http://www.mcallen.lib.tx.us/staff/gm/dhboatp5.htm
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/05/columns/rob/2/index.cfm
The oars I made are pretty ugly but they work great. I just carved them out of two 2x4's. If you make oars out of lumber like this it's best to use one long peice to cut them out of rather than two. The blades on the oars are narrow and long, while it may be rather slow to start a heavy boat they're not much different than conventional oars once you get going. Also they don't cause as much overall strain, letting you cover long distances with less effort.
The overall design of the oarlocks, as far as I can tell, is attributed to Phil Bolger, though I have read vague referances to "fishermen" having more or less pioneered them. who knows. Anyway, they're pretty much just a block of wood attached to the sides with a bolt in it and a peice of rope to attach the oars. The rope should have a loop in both ends and to keep it from comming off I used a fender washer near the head of the bolt. The oars should fit tightly in the rope loops, with just enough slack to allow you to rotate them, or feather, as you row. It doesn't really matter if the oars are in front of or behind the bolt while rowing, however, it's best to have them behind, where as you row they strain against the rope, because if you should need to let them go they'll just rotate and trail alongside the boat.
Attach them to your boat and row it.
Some sites to check out for making your own oarlocks:
http://www.nfdc.net/home/cbdb/barquito%208.htm
http://www.mcallen.lib.tx.us/staff/gm/dhboatp5.htm
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/05/columns/rob/2/index.cfm
The oars I made are pretty ugly but they work great. I just carved them out of two 2x4's. If you make oars out of lumber like this it's best to use one long peice to cut them out of rather than two. The blades on the oars are narrow and long, while it may be rather slow to start a heavy boat they're not much different than conventional oars once you get going. Also they don't cause as much overall strain, letting you cover long distances with less effort.
The overall design of the oarlocks, as far as I can tell, is attributed to Phil Bolger, though I have read vague referances to "fishermen" having more or less pioneered them. who knows. Anyway, they're pretty much just a block of wood attached to the sides with a bolt in it and a peice of rope to attach the oars. The rope should have a loop in both ends and to keep it from comming off I used a fender washer near the head of the bolt. The oars should fit tightly in the rope loops, with just enough slack to allow you to rotate them, or feather, as you row. It doesn't really matter if the oars are in front of or behind the bolt while rowing, however, it's best to have them behind, where as you row they strain against the rope, because if you should need to let them go they'll just rotate and trail alongside the boat.
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